larkin

oh yea, tried that the fan comes on when i ground the connector alright, cheers :notworthy:

ok so thats normal so, i just thought it looked a bit strange to have it mounted up there and not screwed into the block/ oil filter housings like the other senders... another thing, when i unplugged it the fan does not come on...

Hi folks, Trying to identify a mystery sender that is mounted on a bracket off my rocker cover on my 2.0 16v... this is it here: the part no is "1919521D" and is marked with "140 C max", "5 24V 100" and "05 94" any ideas what it could be for? looking at the head there is an unused hole on the other side that seems to have a similar thread: any ideas what should go there?

hey andy a couple of pics would be great if you had them handy, im gonna be doing the same as soon as I get a chance..

hey alemay, cheers for that.. yea i think that may be the problem with my own pump, that link in my previous post outlines the procedure for the teves IV in the beemer.. i might try that first before i replace my own as the replacement pump i got on ebay has a broken fluid line where it enters the pump, aaargh :sad: anyone know if its possible to use my valve block off the new unit with the pump part of my old unit.. the top and bottom seems to be attached with 3 long torx screws, im afraid to open it up though in case theres seals or gaskets between thepump and valve parts that i wont be able to replace..

this is somthing else ive found on my google trawls... http://www.geocities.com/e36rulz/ABSRep ... ption.html its relating to the 3 series bmw but seems to be teves IV also.. seems that the wiring on the valve block is repairable if your not afraid to do a little soldering.

i think depending on the abs system you have there are different bleed procedures, for some of the teves systems you need to cycle the abs pump via VAG COM. I dont think this is the case with the Teves IV that i have... have also seen posts mentioning after you bleed to go for a drive slam on the brakes on gravel or whatever to activate the pump and then rebleed the 4 wheels to remove any additional air than may have been in the pump... feel free to correct me if im wrong as this is based just on what ive been reading on the forums! havent replaced my pump yet so will let you know anyone know if i can remove the pump without draining the master cylinder?

i would think all 4 brakes would need to be bled alright.. would that mean i would be emptying the reservoir / master cylinder etc also. i hear these are a pain to bleed if air gets in.. last time i changed the fluid i just bled all 4 brakes and kept topping up the reservoir to avoid this.. maybe there is a way to depressure the pump via pumping the brakes and then clamp the lines from the master cylinder before disconnecting any lines? or would i be better off bleeding the entire system dry to avoid a mess..

dont have the haynes for the mk3 only the mk2 and passat, oh well thanks anyway dr_mat! found this general abs repair guide on google that might help, also says to pump the brakes to depressurise the system http://webtools.delmarlearning.com/sample_chapters/3520P-09.pdf

bump, any tips for replacing the abs pump/valve unit?

has anyone bought the merlin pressure senders? if so any ideas of which 10bar sender to get and the thread size?

yea ireland.. so if i get the g60 gfs ones does that mean i would have to get new discs and carriers and pads? are the g60 4 or 5 stud?

sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but im about to replace my faulty abs pump/valve unit with a replacement one from ebay.. anyone got any advice on how to remove the old pump and bleeding the replacement safely/correctly? is it possible to plug the new pump into the cars wiring loom before installing it to test that it is working correctly via vag without damaging it?

cheers, I think mine is the 9A alright.. it has the cat etc etc.. there is a 95 passat with a 1.8l engine in the local scrapyard, i havent checked what size disc is on it or anything but they want

Hi there folks... This may sound liuke a stupid question but.. how can I tell what brakes I have? My front right caliper was pretty badly damaged last time I had to change the fluid. the bleed nipple was siezed up and had to be tapped out causing some thread damage to the caliper.. The new nipple worked ok but i know its going to cause me problems again at some stage.. I'm thinking of sourcing a pair of replacements calipers and overhauling and painting them to fit at the next fluid change for peace of mind. anyway The car is a 1994 2.0 16v with 4 stud wheels according to vagcat it could be one of two options: 1. disc brakes / front / KR,9A,2E,ADY disc brake with caliper mark ii / 256X20MM GIRLING / KR,9A,2E,ADY or 2 disc brakes / front / PG,ABV disc brake with caliper mark ii / 280X22MM GIRLING / PG,ABV so what the quickest way i can tell if I have the 256 or the 280 discs... also what other cars in the scrap yard might be able to provide me with replacement calipers? can i fit a later golf caliper? any advice appreciated cheers, barry

yea i know but will have access to a pit tonight.. i have a feeling trying to solder the wires will be painful / tricky enough without having to jack up the car and crawl...

hey leadfoot, i have a cable if you need a scan, im in Ennis..

cool, cheers for that guys, ill take a closer look and see if i can see any heat shield or anything else it might attach onto.. i think i did find the root of my lambda problems, I can see it from underneath... the wires at the sensor on the cat have their insulation melted and i can see exposed wires :shock: I think there should have been a heat shield around the cable down there but mine doesn't. I reckon the wires must have got damaged from the heat of the cat/downpipe. There is heat shield sleeve around the plug end of the cable on the top so perhaps this shield was installed on the wrong end by the previous owner/garage? I just need to get the car over a pit / onto a lift now so that I can repair the damaged wires and get some kind of heat shield sleeve around it..

while trying to trace my lambda / mixture errors problem (melted wires on the cat end) I noticed this loose air pipe above the lambda plug: its coming from the back of the air box, here: wondering where this pipe should be connected up to or is this normal? is this the air intake? can anyone have a quick look for me next time your under the bonnet... Its a 2.0 16v.. cheers, barry

sorry for diggin up an old post, just installed it there, bought off ebay for a tenner, seems to be a pirate copy. has all audi/vw data but doesnt seem to have the workshop manuals or wiring diagrams for my 16v corrado which is the only useful thing on it.. oh well..

cheers trentSC, some good info there, will be folllowing this thread.. going to try and trace a possible vacuum leak this weekend so this should be a help one tip i read on another post somewhere was that you can spray a little carb cleaner on the various vacuum lines between the filter and the tb. if there is a vaccum leak then you will hear the engine change tone / splutter when the carb cleaner enters the system. might be worth adding to the kb..

Hi there guys, bit of background: My ABS light is always on I Vag-Com'd and get the following error on the ABS: 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) 35-00 - - So it seems the pump may be broken as the valves are internal to do with solenoids in the pump I gather so I am sourcing a new pump/valve unit which I am waiting to get.. meanwhile I popped out the ecu today and checked the connections, there was a small bit of white oxidation on a couple of pins but when I took apart the ecu all the internals looked clean and dry (the motherboard was like new inside) I sanded the connectors, sprayed some electrical solvent and plugged it back in - no change in error codes While I had the ecu out I checked the resistance of the 4 sensors by checking the relevent pins on the loom, the 2 back ones seem fine as they have a resistance within the bounds (1.02, 1.04 ohms), the 2 front ones however have a reading of 1. I also checked the inlet and outlet valve resistances from the relevant abs ecu loom pins and they also confirm the error codes (i.e the 4 inlet valves and 3 outlet valves show the correct resistance (3-10ohms) but the left rear shows a resistance of 1 (got the multimeter test procedures off of Autodata, can post em if they are any hep to anyone else) My Conclusion: The 2 front sensors need to be cleaned/replaced The pump needs to be replaced unless theres another way of fixing the outlet valve Just wondering if there is any other way to fix the left rear outlet valve error without changing the pump? I have changed the brake fluid, and tried the hammer tap approach :wink:

any update on the KB entry for the 16v rough running troubleshooting guide/vacuum leaks etc?