Si B

If one of the hoses has gone some of the others may be on the way out soon as well so I would recommend replacing the whole lot with Samco hoses. The price of a full set of Samco hoses is the same a VW would charge for two individual hoses. Cost effective and looks pretty cool, not to mention very durable :D

When I first got my G60 it ran at about 130 (sometimes 134/6) so I fitted a mocal cooler which has knocked the temp down to about 100. I got the kit from JMR in Rustington. It was about £120 for everything. It mounts using a sanwich plate on the oil filter mounting and then the cooler is secured to the front lower crossmember with a couple of brackets. I have retained the stock cooler as this helps warm the oil on start up.

This is not something I have come across before. How much is it per can and how often would you suggest applying the stuff. I assume it helps sealing as well as adding lubrication for the apex seals. Is this correct?

I had a similar problem on my G60 and a decent temporary solution was to remove the cable from the lever in the footwell and just tug on the cable with some pliars. Failing this (on the G60 at least) you can jact the front of the car up and just about operate the catches from underneath with a long screwdriver and a torch....although it is a bit of a fiddle it means you don't trash the grille. Check out the common Corrado questions section on this forum as I recall reading a whole load of stuff about dodgy bonnet release cables.

The best way to change the front bearings is to strip down everything so that you are left with the offending hub carrier complete with bearing and hub and then take the whole item along with the new bearing to anywhere with a decent press and get them to swap the bearings over. If you ask nicely a tenner should do the trick. Then assembly is the reversal of removal (well not quite as you need to get the alignment re-set) as the good old Haynes manual says. One quick tip though is check that the garage does actualy have a press. I left some GTi hubs with a garage once only to come back later and find them trying to hammer to old items out because the didn't have a press. Luckily I rescued all the parts before they tried to hammer the new ones in.

When I fitted a piper cam to my old 1.9 8v the run in proceedure was something like hold 1k for 10 mins, 2k for 10 mins and then 3k for 10 mins (whilst in neutral) then you are ready to rock and roll.......except I still had to run the rest of my new engine in for another 1,500k..... :( but after that :lol: . Uless they have completely screwed up the cam timing I would doubt that not following the run in proceedure would cause the symptoms you describe. If the run in proceedure isn't followed you just knacker the cam lobes and tappets which means they won't last very long but shouldn't affect the short term running. It sounds like they don't know what they are doing and so it maybe something as simple as them not having set the idle correctly or not connected a key sensor that the ECU uses to determie the idle.

Just to add my twopennys worth, A mate of mine had them do some bumper scuffs on his Audi and it looked mint straight afterwards but 12 months later the paint has gone all funny and matt. This is not a criticism but just a heads up as they certainly did a great job if you just want a temporary tart up. I would however really recommend a guy called dent wizard in north kent. He took five or six small dents out of my last C just after I brought it. You couln't even tell that they existed after he had finished so it was £100 well spent.

Pop down to your local exhaust/tyre fitter when they are quiet and slip them some hard cash. I got my Jetex exhaust fitted to my 16v for £25 (cash to the guy that did the job, when no one was looking). He even gave me a receipt and adjusted it a week later. £70 is a rip off. With ramps it is no more than a 45 min job and even that includes the essential tea breaks. They are not difficult to fit yourself though. The hardest bit is usualy taking the old siezed rusty one off. It may be a one spanner job in the haynes manual but it is certainly a four or five grazed knuckle job. A hacksaw and a hammer should prove useful.

Just put my de catted G60 through the MOT and the tester wanted to know the year of the car (is has a private reg). I told him it was a 91 and he was happy as long as I could prove it. i.e. what did the V5 say? The V5 says first registered in 91 so all is hunky dory. Interestingly the MOT tester had called the local dealership who had told him the car was a 94? Just goes to show how much they know! :?

Std shocks with shorter firmer springs tend to give a slightly choppy ride. The springs you suggest are not too extreme so this won't be too serious. Uprated dampers would however be preferable to std as the pistons are shorter (so the springs don't drop out of place) and the damping firmer. This will greatly improve the handling and reduce the chop. Budget uprated dampers are not that much more expensive than std items.

Maybe we should try to raise some money for a forum day out by selling exhaust whistles to nova driving chav scum. mmmmm...... I can't believe that anyone could possibly think it a good udea unless your your idea of a "head turning mota" is people pointing and laughing. If I get wind of anyone on this forum fitting one to their C I think I will have to sell the G60 and disasociate myself from the whole VW scene. We ought to run a poll for the worst car accesory ever, this would definately be in the top ten.

the text book answer re oil and water heat up is that oil has a higher specific heat capacity than water and therefore requires more joules of energy to increase it's temp by one degree in a fixed time. This also means that the oil stores more heat energy and therefore will take longer to cool down.

What causes the whistle/ping noise that you mention. Mine makes a noise like this (similar to a dump valve noise) when I change gear on full chat. It sounds like boost squirting out from somewhere but I have checked all the pipes for leaks and can't find any. Is it a leaky ISV? The noise only started when I fiitted a 68mm pulley and thus wound the boost up. I have not lost sleep over it yet as it sounds quite cool but I don't want to be losing boost when I shouldn't be.

Fair point, and if you have found them ok then that's cool. I just remember that they were a lot more expensive than any of the other sets available at the time (I might have just been done on the price), and I had to machine up a conical "applicator" for each of the bushes in order to push them into place with the aid of the machine shop lathe :x (crude I know but I don't have a press). The powerflex ones on the other hand are mostly two piece and so fit a lot easier. I should have just cut them in half ! ! ! and saved myself the effort but I couldn't pull myself to take a knife to them after selling my soul to pay for them. On the flip side, they did work nicely when on the limit round a track :D :D

Do not use Bonrath polly bushes, they are very very firm, very very expensive and are all one piece items so are a complete pig to fit. The powerflex ones are pretty good but not cheap. The bugpack ones are the cheapest (by a long way) but are a bit firmer/harsher than the powerflex ones. If you use the car a lot and can afford it then go for the powerflex ones. I can't afford it and don't use the car much and have bug pack items on my G60 which seem fine.

Do you have an aftermarket oil cooler fitted. I knocked about 30 degrees off the oil temp and a noticable amount off the water temp by fitting a decent mocal cooler (it now runs at a far more sensible temp 100 ish). You may find that if you fit a large oil cooler then you can get away with a smaller rad? The oil temp after all has an effect on the water temp, especially if you still run the VW oil to water oil cooler. There is quite a bit of space under the charger to fit a good sized oil cooler

I beg to differ on the noise front. All my normally aspirated VWs have sounded rather bland with the std airbox set up and removing the trumpet and drilling the airbox has always given the car a great induction roar :D . The other advantage is that the noise comes from the business end of the car (i.e. the engine) rather than from the back of the car (as with a performance exhaust). I do however appreciate that induction roar is probably a matter of personal taste and my enthusiasm for it is helped by the fact that I do not use the car daily. If I used the car daily the induction roar that I get from my current G60 running a 68mm pulley and Jabba induction kit might prove a bit tiring. For occasional use though it's great ! ! ! ! :D

They should"fit" but the spring rates will be all wrong as the golf is about 150kg ligher than your Corrado. I would get a set of springs that are specifically designed for a Corrado, and do not forget to get the camber properly reset after lowering the car. A full set shouldn't be more than £100. I got a full G-max set up (springs and shocks) for £220 from C&R at inters last year and would recommend it as a cost effective upgrade. It is a good compromise between comfort and firmness and is well up to the odd track day.

Definately remove the snorkel! This is a specialy designed noise baffle which VW kindly installed for Joe Public so he/she didn't think that the car was to loud. It is designed to tone down any induction roar. I lost the snorkel and drilled holes in the airbox on my old 16v and it sounded great. Just make sure you only drill the front and wing sides of the box. If you drill the engine side of the box you wil just suck in hot air from around the engine which will not help performance.

Progressive wound springs increase in stiffness as the load applied to them increases. This means that they are not stiff and harsh when cruising around town but are nice and firm when you lean on them round a corner. The coils that are closer together are "softer" and compress first. Once these have compressed the stiffer wider spaced coils take over. This can be seen when you lower the car onto the ground after jacking as the coils at each end of the spring close up before the middle ones move.

I had a similar problem with my G60 and it turned out to be the throttle position sensor wire. There is a switch/sensor which tells the ECU when the throttle is shut and thus when to feed some air through the idle valve but the wire was shorting and so the ECU had no idea what to do and the car just bunny hopped along when you were coasting as well as stuttering when you tried to take off. The swich lives on the throttle body and is reasonably obvious to spot. It might be worth checking the operation of this. My problem was also intermittent.

You may well have a blockage in one of the oilways which can be overcome when the pump is pumping harder at higher rpm. Why not hook up a pressure guage to see what the oil pressure actualy is? Have you tried running some engine flush through the engine and then replacing the oil as that might clear any blockage? One other thing to check is the condition of the dipstick. It sounds silly but my house mate had a Mk1 GTi which lost oil pressure when cornering and we were sure that the thing was full of oil until we realised that the dipstick was bust and had slid down the the plastic stop thus giving a false reading and the engine was actualy about 2 litres short on oil.

A few key pointers are to remove everything possible from your car (seats, spare wheel, sub box if you have one etc), make sure you only have a small amount of petrol in the tank (again for weight saving), drop the tyre pressures right down (gives you a bigger tyre footprint to get you off the line without too much drama), and makes sure you have all the windows and roof closed for aerodynamics. Another helpful thing would be to unplug the rear spoiler to it doesn't add drag when you build up a bit of speed. This all sounds a bit extreme and pedantic I know but every little bit helps and that what drag racing is all about. Some people also lose their o/s headlamp to improve airflow into the engine. It terms of technique I have found that the best times are usually posted with a decent bit of wheel spin off the line. It seems to keep the engine on boil nicely even though it looks a bit messy. Experimentation is pobably the key. Try to do a few runs and vary the starting technique each time.

Yes is comes with a nice shiny heat shield and a massive blue cone filter. It looks great, sounds awesome and every little bit helps when it comes to bhp. Check out the "our featured volkswagens" section on http://www.matey-matey.com for some pics of my car including the engine bay with the induction kit fitted. It doesn't come cheap though at £150 but what the hell, it still looks the nuts!

Pagid pads are OK for road use but I had a set on my last 16v Corrado that fell to pieces. The backing came adrift and caused them to sit wonky in the calipers which was not good news on lap3 of a track day. They do have plenty of bite for the road but I am a bit wary of them for track use on the heavier Corrado (they were fine on my previous lightweight Golf). My curernt pad of choice is the Mintex 1144 which is great for road and track and resists all sorts of abuse as well as hauling the car to a stop noticably quicker than other pads I have used (when hot and cold). I have used them to good effect in combination with the Pagid grooved discs that you have. Not the cheapest though at £45 a pair but worth it.