Si B

Thanks for the pointers! Hopefuly it will be easy now I know how. The IC looks good and filthy so I'm hoping that a good clean (inside and out) will improve its cooling capability.

Help..... I need some pointers as to how to get the intercooler out of my corrado G60. I have undone the 2 lower bolts in front of the wheel arch and removed all the pipe work but although the cooler wiggles around it wont come free. The plastic air scoop that chanels air to the cooler is still in place and doesn't look like it is helping matters but I can't see an obvious way of removing this with the IC in place.

Glad to see that I'm not the only one that finds simple engine servicing expensive. Last time I started setting the timing on my 8v Gti to run super plus I ended up dropping in a hairy 1.9 and V-SAM pro. :D Although it's rude to remove a head and replace it a non flowed one!

If you want a cheap and fun track car then how about a 1.8 16v with a 2.0l bottom end and some cams. The 1.8 uses K-jet injection and so gives better throttle response whilst a few mods will bring the power up. I ran one last year and did a few track days in it which were awesome fun. It is the lightest C so has the best chassis balance (the balance is perfect for some great fun tail out antics) and the mechanicals are cheap as chips to service and repair compared to the VR and G60. It's only drawback is lack of grunt but this can be sorted easily and helped if you ditch everything that weighs anything. They are very cheap to buy in the firstplace and the engines will take an absolute canning without missing a beat. They rev to 7,200 which makes them a bit more racey for track work. The brakes are smaller than the V6 and G60 (256mm vs 280) but adequate if you buy decent pads/discs. You can get 285mm kits for about £150 from rally design if you don't think the brakes are up to it.

Make sure you use the correct splined bits to undo the bolts holding the inner CV to the gearbox as opposed to allen headed ones. Allen bit will do the jod but ruin the bolts in the process making life rather difficult should you need to undo them again in the future.

By boost meter yes I do mean the MFA reading, although as I am still trying to find someone who can tell me what the 4 digit readout equates to in psi. Your reading is a lot lower than mine was although thinking back, I wonder if I managed to accidentaly switch the digi rev counter on instead!????? cos the readings were very similar to the rev readings. If this is the case then sorry if my previous post confused you. Please could you confirm what sequence of button pressing you used to activate the thing and then I will have another look at it this weekend. regards Simon

With a 68mm pulley and Jabba chip, S4 charger, de cat pipe and induction kit I am getting up to 5,800 on the boost meter with about 3,000 at 3,000 rpm. Re the belt, you should get a new tensioner end cap with the pulley kit which makes the tensioner longer and thus takes up the slack in the std belt. You just chop off the old end and the new cap slides onto the tensioner.

If it was registered after 1 Aug 92 as dazzyvr6 says then it will need the cat fitted regardless of the emmissions levels. You could always get it tested with the cat and then swap the bypass pipe back on afterwards, although I have come across a few friendly mot testers who are happy to check the cat whilst having their eyes closed so as not to notice that it is missing.

This is a common problem with all VWs. The exhaust runs over the trailing arm and if you increase the zorst diameter whilst lowering the car (i.e. moving the TA closer to the car underside) you reduce the clearance between the trailing arm and zorst. The zorst then bangs on the trailing arm. Don't waste money on Powerflex poly zorst bushes as they are a waste of time. Go for the chain filled rubbers that C&R do. They do not stretch at all, although this means you need to remove the hangers in order to fit them and then bolt the hangers back up with the rubbers in place. :D

3 months would not be unreasonable. I had a plug jump out of my Corrado 16v 3 months after I brought it (it had just had a service prior to this) Luckily the thread was ok but the remaining three plugs were all lose. The leads must have been holding them in place on a wish and a prayer. Someone must have got distracted and just not done them up when they did the service. bloody thing put a massive dent in the bonnet though as it went for orbit.

The Corrado (1.8)puts out 3bhp less than the Golf due to a more restrictive exhaust system (136bhp vs 139bhp) which might have an effect, but bear in mind the Corrado is also about 100kgs heavier than the Golf which will slow it down a bit. Don't worry though cos out of the box the Corrado handles much better.

I used some Shorter uprated Bonrath top mounts on my Mk2 project car and they were an absolute nightmare. They didn't fit properly, cost a fortune and didn't lower the car at all so I wouldn't recomend them. Just stick with the std G60 ones.

A matalic rattling noise (like keys) which would be more pronounced when going over bumps is almost definately the front suspension top mount/s. About £30 a pair and simple to change although you will need to get the alignment done afterwards as you need to take the struts off to do the job.