black66

Anyone recommend a fitter then? Seems quality fitment is more important that anything.

After looking throught the site I've decided to go for either an: Toad Ai606 or AutoWatch 160RLi It'll all depend where the closest (reputable) alarm fitter is to me. Anyone recommend anyone Stoke/North Staffs or thereabouts? How about the places that travel to fit alarms? Any good? Cheers :)

I may have look inside this afternoon. It's a 2 channel amp. As one channel output measures open cicuit and one measures closed circuit I may be able to track back along the PCB and measure to see where the difference is occuring. I would imagine the closed circuit channel is the defective one. I'm basing this on the fact that the speaker itself would 'close' the circuit. The closed circuit must be causing the overcurrent light to illuminate. Cheers for your suggestions Kev.

I'm asking for advice how to repair my current amplifier at a decent price. Not what I should replace it with :roll:

No, no warranty left. It's had very little use which is the dissapointing thing. Purchased by a mate who used it for 8 months then he stored it for a year. I've had maybe three months use out of it since having it off him. I was thinking about it not being worth repairing too. So I pay the £51+VAT and then if it's going to cost more then they will contact me? The amp is going to be worth no more than £80-£90 anyhow. Cheers

My Sony Xplod XM-1502SX amplifier has decided to give up working. The overcurrent light illuminates. One of the speaker outputs measures short circuit whilst the other measures open circuit. If I had a diagram I'd have a go myself. Anyone know where will repair it? Anybody can repair it for me? Anyone tried these people: http://www.fixmyradio.co.uk/ Thanks Dave

Tesco are selling Autosol tubes for £1.73 as opposed to £4.99 in Halfords. Think they're getting rid of all stock so be quick!

The title of this thread is 'Who's been upsetting the Type R people ?' It would appear channel 4 with their spyshots of the next model year Civic. http://www.channel4.com/4car/gallery/sp ... civic.html Looks like a current Daewoo to me. :shock:

Removed my head today to replace it with one I have already rebuilt. However I've discovered a difference. See attached photos. One has a large cavity for oil to run out onto chain guide rail whilst the other has a small hole. I can't see it making much difference really, just wondered what the difference was. VW design change or something? Apart from that everything going well. Checked upper tensioner, showing very small signs of pitting so okay for a little while yet. Bores all show original honing and measure in tolerance, I was half expecting 1 and 6 to be worn but they are all consistant in both size and condition. Just bolted new head on and bolted up exhaust, thats enough for today though. Should be all plumbed in tomorrow and running smoothly. Surprised how easy the VR is to work on, was a bit worried was I was getting into at first but it's all a piece of cake. And I've gotta have saved at least £500 labour charges. 8)

I'm just 22 and here is the list of cars I had. 17-18 Mk2 Polo 1043cc 18-20 Beetle 1970 1285cc 19-21 Mk2 Golf GTI 16v 1990 20--- Beetle 1966 1915cc 21--- Corrado VR6 Who said I'm into VW's? :-P D

My passenger door on my 94 VR has decided not to unlock. Doesn't unlock with remote. Doesn't unlock when key is turned in the door. The door pin will raise maybe 5mm and then drop back down. I cannot even pull the door pin up physically. I can hear the pump, and central locking is locking drivers door, petrol flap etc... Any ideas? Or suggestions on how to remove the door panel with the door shut? Cheers

Just been on the phone to the stealers, and stealers they are! Valve guides are only special order from Germany, £14.18 each plus the VAT. :shock: :shock: :shock: Thats not gonna happen!

God, I've had a long day and must be getting tired. I take it the VW alignment tool is available from...................VW! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Thanks Kev, I will do the lifters. Want it to be super smooth and quiet after this. Where can I get this alignment tool from? Any ideas? There were receipts with the car for head work when I bought it. I'm suspecting stem seals only were replaced and not guides at that rebuild. Also on this invoice the gearbox was removed, so I'm hoping the tensioners were replaced then. Fingers crossed! :D Dave.

Right, My ABS warning light did used to stay on all the time. These were the results of VAGCOM: G47- Front Left Wheel Sensor Mechanical Malfunction/Signal outside specification. G46/44 - Rear Sensors G100 - Brake pedal position sensor. Voltage Supply B+ Apologies for vaguness but this stuff was written down on a scrap of paper in the dark. Anyhow, I decided to approach things a step at a time. Faulty front sensor has now been replaced. Now the warning light is intermittently coming on. Some journeys it will never come on, sometimes from just after start up. Which failiure is likely to be causing this? Cheers :) Dave

Hi, Can anyone get me the VW part number for the full 12 valve guides for VR6 head? And confirm Head gasket set part number is 021 198 012A? Just spent the night dissassembling the head I bought at the weekend. Want to rebuild this head so as my car iss not off the road too long. Replacement head has only covered 50,000 miles but I'm going to do stem seals and guides on it as this is the main reason for the car needing head work(blue smoke after coasting/overun and smoke on early morning start up if blipping the throttle). Seeing as the head is low mileage should I replace lifters? The head looks in great shape, no wear to cam profile, cam bearing surface and follower surfaces. All in all, at the minute, VR6 headwork doesn't look as scary as it sounds. :D Dave

I had exactly the same problem, no light at all. VW wanted £95+VAT for the ABS light unit. The actual bulb is soldered to a pcb inside the black housing. I managed to get a bulb of the same rating and get handy with the soldering iron removing the blown bulb and soldering in the new one. Good Luck :D Dave

Don't worry Kev. I followed your coolant refilling guide before when doing the thermostat housing, yet another common problem!! Cheers

UPDATE. Removed the serpentine belt. Tensioner nice and smooth, no play. Lots of play in the water pump. Started the car without the belt on and it is infinitely more quiet than with the belt on. Gotta be the water pump! :shock: Got a bit worried until I searched the forum for details and as usual, kevhaywire comes up trumps with a replacement procedure somewhere on the forum. Thank you very much. Can't wait to get a nice quiet pump on! In the meantime just have to keep fingers crossed and use the AA if I have to. Kev, did yours expell all the coolant instantly after the seal blew? Cheers again :D :D

As an afterthough.... I'd plugged VAG COM in as my ABS light had come on. Shows front left wheel sensor needs replacing. Brake pedal pos sensor wouldn't just be showing due to this would it? I know some things on VAG COM give a red herring. How tricky, and how much, is water pump replacement should it be that? I'm off to remove my serpentine belt to investigate the other problem further. Cheers for your help so far. :D

Hi, My VR has just started an intermittant sqeak from the alternator drive belt end of the engine(once every 1 to 5 seconds). My initial thoughts were alternator bearings, but sound seems further back than the alternator. Does anyone know if the tension of the belt is adjusted by an eccentric tensioning wheel(similar to cam belt tensioner on 16V KR engines). Because I can see what looks like this on the side of the block. Anyone had simlilar trouble or can shed some light on this subject. Dave Oh, and while I'm here, where and what is the brake pedal position sensor? This is showing as a fault on VAG-COM ( code G100). Does this have any drastic effect on braking? Ta very much! :) :) :)

Hi Eliot, Thanks for the comments. The bug runs raceweight :shock: ERCOs. 3.5 inch bubble versions on the front which make the beam look narrowed due to their total offset. :D Helped by the 125 tyres I use! The VR is lowered on Eibach springs with KONI adjustables. The Eibachs I think are 35mm drop, or maybe 40mm, so yours should look similar. Just right in my opinion. :D I also read on some other threads that people were unhappy with the Eibachs, saying they don't sit level front to back, but mine sits perfectly. Nice Bug yourself by the way. The perfect stance. You going to Big Bang. Wanna race? :D :D :D If I get my new motor finished within the next 2 weeks Dave

Hi Henny Its been in my family 8 years with me owning it for 2. Its not been to congleton beetles in our ownership. Before that it was owned by two brothers for ten years. Maybe then from 1985 to 1995 ish? It been a Stoke-on-Trent car for 30 years so not a million miles away from Congleton. Does Congleton Beetles still exist? I think I heard of it when I was getting into the VW scene in the mid nineties(I'm only 22 at the moment). Dave :D :D :D

:shock: Here's my current cars. My Bug and Corrado. Two lots of trouble to keep me entertained. :D :D :D

Me too please.................. Thanks :) :)