bigray

Has anyone had a different problem with the spoiler? Mine goes up fine, when it comes down, it blows the fuse halfway. I stripped the bootlid down, removed, cleaned and lubed, refitted. All works fine until i put one specific earth lead onto the earth block on the bracket. Then itl blow the fuse everytime. Not sure what the earth is for but it is slightly thicker then the others so was thinking rear screen? With earth disconnected the spoiler goes up and down fine. Any help appreciated :salute:

Cheers for the pics, i was gunna investigat it at some point over the weekend, now i know where to start! Did my head in for a bit, why would they put the active spoiler on the same fuse as the dash VDO, just asking for trouble. My spoiler goes up fine on the switch and at 45mph, as soon as it goes down, gets about an inch from the bottom and blows fuse. Quit annoying as i cant see how fast im going, if the cars overheating............ Sure a good clean out will sort it. Cheers :salute:

Sorted, removed the valves at lunchtime, used air lift on it, ran out of shop, heat coming through straight away. Sweet :salute:

Fairdoos, im a panel beater so do stuff like that all day long, never heard of TIG used on steel, Im guessing as its such a pain in the arse to master and its quicker to use MIG. Good luck with it :salute:

Dunno wot temps they need to be on, we just turn the temp setting thing to maximum and if its too hot, turn it down. Better to be able to turn it down then not to be able to turn it up! :salute:

TIG is usually used on aluminium as this has a much lower melting point then steel. Plus its an absolute :censored: to do. Never heard of steel being TIG'd, always MIG or gas. :salute:

Why are you TIG welding it? :salute:

The rod is the strip of same plastic you push into the gap, no point in going and buying rods of the correct plastic, use the doner bumper and just cut thin strips, clean paint from it and use as a rod. Yeah you need to heat the area ur welding so all three bits melt together basically :salute:

Try to make sure the plastic you use to fill the gap is exactly the same as the plastic you weld it to. There is a specalist tool and process, but thats boring and you wont have access to it. Basically use a hot air gun with a thin end attatched to it (if not, just be careful of surrounding area when using heat) Clean paint from edges to be joined, sand a 45degree angle onto side to be joined, clamp in place when happy with position, use a strip of same plastic and melt it into the 45degree angle, so it melts to both the doner piece and the bumper and fills the gap so its flush. Itl have to have a coat or two of filler anyway :salute:

Went into work earlier, drained coolant system, waited till stone cold, followed the instructions on the airlift, (amazing bit of kit, espescially if u dont have exhaust extractors or working on a diesel!!!) Did it in 5 mins if that, run it up and theres a massive airlock the other side of the frigging valves. Went to vw, ordered feed and return, gunna get rid of valves and repeat, should be sorted then. Got the majority of the dash out so may just take the remainder out and give as much of the heater box a blowing/hoover as possible. Before i changed the matrix, it used to literally melt my face, i had to have the window open a crack in winter, even with it turned off. Cant wait to be warm in my car after the gym My advice is, if uv fitted a new matrix, get rid of those :censored: valves. Theyv given me nothing but grief. :salute:

91 j plate, no abs :salute:

Thaught that myself, gunna ring up n find out the year of manafacture of my matrix, if i can, get rid of the valves, pressure test type thing it and then see how that works. Its gotta be those stupied :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: valves. Took them off, checked they werent jammed up, blew air thru them, run water, work fine, even getting the car run up, theres hot water going thru them, just not from matrix to car. Flaps working on box etc. This is the third successive weekend iv titted round with it, starting to seriously annoy me. Something that shouldv been a relatively simple job has turned into a nightmare. Il keep you posted :salute:

The wire is better for panels your replacing or dont need to worry about painting as it 90% of the time will scratch a surface sumwhere, plus ideally you need two people to use it without struggling like a d**k.

Got one off the snap on man today, woo hoo, Empty the system, push valve bit into expansion tank, connect air line to airline bit, put other pipe into coolant ur replacing, press switch, the air is pumped out of system till its at certain no. vacum, make sure it has no leaks by leaving for 20 secs, slowly turn the valve on coolant pipe, the coolant is drawn into the system and theoretically there is no air and the oolant should fill to the cold level mark............ Well everything else has gone wrong with the job so far, i can only laugh. If that doesnt work im gunna get new pipes and get rid of valves as the matrix shud b man enough to take it if its new? :salute:

Is it just me or does that look and sound like a compression tester? :? Gunna try and get rid of valves first and see if that cures it, if not im gunna do a basil fawlty on it, with a pick axe :salute:

Is it ony people with g60's that are having serious grief with getting their heating working, or just me? :cuckoo: :salute:

Theyre bonded in, ideally need an osolating glass cutting tool, stanley blades will take for ever, make more of a mess and likely to end up in AnE after slipping. Whoever's doing ur paintwork should have access to one? Buzz it out, use a "gasket scraper" to remove the left over sealer from both glass and body, repair and paint as required, prime the paint, apply sealer to primer, line up any location legs on the glass to the holes in bodywork or copy gaps on other side and press in, Tape in place to stop from dropping/moving. :salute:

Just cos the screen has the same name as the manafacturer fitted one, doensnt mean its the same, the amount of windows and screens we see that are made by the same company as the manafacturer uses and still dont fit, rattle, wind noise (espescially), leak, shatter etc is a joke. Unless its ordered from the manafacturer or a dealership and you see the recipt to prove it id tell them to go away till they sort it out.

Im gunna give the diff expansion cap a go and remove valves, run it up and see if the car gets hot, if it does, itl mean the valves are only working intermitently, or sumthing. Grief

Hmm, il give both a go i think, worth a shot. Currently driving around with my dash in pieces. Cant see it being the valves on mine as after goin to/from gym (15mile trip) both hoses are red hot which suggests to me that oolant is circulating thru the heater matrix. Il get a new cap and whip the valves out and see if that cures it, if not, someone at work mentioned sumthing called an "air lift" none of the mechanics had heard of it (good start) then i asked a "technical expert" (clever fucker) and he knew ot it was tec, meant to be used on cars with air in the intercooler or sumthing. Cheers

Just done same job, square bit of foam goes arount the top of the matrix where it slides into the heater box thingy, do away withthat too as it wont slide in properly as the foam sticks to the fins and just jams the whole lot up and forkd me off massively. Theres a thread bout this in engine bay called "heating problem" or sumthing. Iv spent ages trying to sort it, got hot water going into matrix, hot water coming out of matrix, but no heat coming thru vents??? The bypass valves make it an absolute :censored: to run up, had mine runnung for 2 hours, pipe going into the matrix was red hot, coming out was cold so i slid pipe off bit so water pissed out, after 5 mins of cold water coming out, it suddenly went hot. Put pipe back on and did up jubilee. Still no heat in car. End of tether comes to mind.

Autoglass repair, autoglass replace...... BADLY. Work in a main dealer bodyshop for a prestige german car manafacturer, the amount of bodge jobs that come in because of people like them is unbeliveable. They mostly dont use genuine glass, bonding kits (The manafacturer i work on has 4 different types depending on the glass and the panel it goes onto), dont take care, dont know how things come apart so usually break trims. I WOULDNT EVEN LET THEM CLEAN MY CAR LET ALONE WORK ON IT!!!!!!!!!!! In all honestly the only way to do a screen is in the dry, with all the tools to hand, where you can take your time and not have to rush, with ovens to paint when you scratch the pillars/roof when cutting the screen out etc etc etc.

OOOoooh nice, as for the arch, the proper way would be for a new 1/4 a new inner wheelarch to be fitted, however fitting a new 1/4 is a bit beyond driveway repairs. Even for me and im a panel beater. Thered be no point in "making" a section and welding in as it would distort to fcuk welding in and then youd have to put tons of filler in and itd still look a total mess. If you want it to look good, the only way is for the 1/4 and inner wheel arch to be done properly, Thats gunna cost a fair whack so is it gunna be cheaper to break it and sell the parts if theyre in decent nick? The ruct around the fuel filler, even tho you think its gone, itl be back, trust me. Do soooooooo much rust work at work (prestige german car maker, dealer bodyshop) The only real way to cure rust is to replace the panel and ensure it is sealed, painted and waxed thouroughly, even then id still expect to see rust. Thats the pesamist in me. haha. Good luck with whatever you do.

Hmmmm, think thats gunna be my last resort. Not keen on removing them as if i do put them back in its an absolute :censored: to get run up and rid of all the air locks. Most of the techs at work said get rid of the valves, mate whos into his veedubs said clean them out or replace but dont remove entirely. I had them off this morning and made sure they werent blocked etc, after taking the best part of two hours to get hot water going into and out of the matrix i dont really wanna have to repeat the process. Thatll have to wait for wed eve as il go and get new pipes from vw, had to do some serious bodging to the coolant pipes when the neck snapped off the matrix, cut pipes here, joined them there, just to make sure there were no kinks in the pipes etc. Moh, the saga continues.

Do you mean the valves between the engine and matrix? Didnt see the point as the pipes after the valves were hot both feed and return. Just stripped dash down to see if the heater cables were trapped, the direction cable has a clip missing meaning it wont stay on the screen setting but the hot/cold cable works fine. When you push it to cold, the air gets noticeably colder, slide to hot and it warms up a degree or two. Lose the bypass valves? Thaught they were in there as the matrixs melt and spray boiling coolant at you thru the vents, haha?