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s1m0n

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About s1m0n

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  1. I did think it looked familier, like I'd seen in somplace in the past... It has Corrado.net stickers in the rear quarters too
  2. Soooo... Still have the green VR6 but in a moment of madness I decided to rescue this dog: 20 years of dodgy workmanship and rust *sigh* what was I thinking! The story so far... Roof does not touch top of windscreen (rusted away) Offside rear arch made of bondo Boot floor rusted away from rear panel (almost full width) Nearside front wing bottom rusted away Offside drivers door made of bondo Front engine mount broken (due to stupid solid front mount placing undue stress on it) Brake master cylinder shot Brake fluid leak from comp valve Clutch engaging at floor (poss due to air in system) Both rear & offside front bump-stops shot New fan & rad fitted by retard as fan won't rotate(!!) Black front bumper / Rattle can red bonnet All paint either faded and / or different shades Sunroof tilts only & headlining shot Central locking shot Uh.. Good bits? Grey leather (but drivers seat shot), decent FK dampers, OK ish Borbet C's... It's a Corrado(?) I guess I'm gonna be doing some welding
  3. If they are not adding it to their range (as a result of selling 10) I have no interest in purchasing. I could go out an get it cracked / broken a month after fitting an then what, wait for another group buy? In my mind having a minimum order filled (ie 10), allows you to make it (the item) again in singles! Maybe windsceens are different, I don't actually knowbut I agree it sounds like they are not very interested in our business and they certainly wont be getting my £300 wi5h that kind of approach Shame, I'd really like a heated screen. Cheers Simon
  4. Cost's do sound reasonable ASSUMING: - 1) After the first order of 10 they will be adding Corrado to their product range(?) 2) The heater element wires are thin "modern" style(?) Re tinted or not - They usually offer both tinted AND clear, what will be the case with the Corrado(?) Would you be able to address these point corradlo? Better for the company to have one point of contact, if you don't want to, I would be happy to. Cheers Simon
  5. Any progress on this? I would certainly be interested in taking one. Cheers Simon
  6. OK... It's official, I do like my new C :dance:
  7. Part of the problem is mechanical, the lever ratio's could use changing too. Having said that, I agree that the late model Golf ABS would be an improvement, I have the complete set-up that I'm looking to fit sometime in the summer. I don't know the VR6 or Golf MC sizes (I'd like to know them), I've also heard that the Audi quattro MC "fits" (or can be made to fit) and is 24mm, I don't know if this is true or not though. Kev has been looking at brakes over the years, not sure what he's currently using. Cheers Simon
  8. I'd suggest making that change (to oil temp based delay), it should help. I've run a light one with a 3.68 and you can feel the difference when you just "rolling" in traffic, for me, I'd say keep a stock flywheel if your doing more than a couple of thousand miles a year on the road.
  9. Yea the Subaru ECU has some pretty complex stuff looking after VVT, if you can keep them (it) locked till the oil is up to a certain temp that might help your stability. Umm bit off topic lol... sorry! I think if your gonna run "short" gears in a road car you'll need to keep the flywheel weight standard or thereabouts, lighter ones usually exacerbate drive-line shunt. Cheers S
  10. Agreed. Some of the Subaru (and LOTS of the US street racing) community have been using 5-10% (or more) meth mixed with super for literally years. Straight Meth (basically alcohol) WILL degrade “natural” rubber and/or ally and/or unprotected parts but the points being made smack of sensationalism, tabloid journalism type stuff! If (and that's IF) you ran into problems you'd just change out some parts... Anyone wishing to educate themselves should check out some of the US street racing sites, lots of good info on the risks associated with running “funny fuel”. Alternatively, stick with the sensationalist BS and run round bleating about “what if”.... Cheers for now Simon
  11. With the greatest respect, the problems not the car, it's the 2.5 mile journey! Whatever you buy the consumption is going to be cr4p because (as already said) it's in warm up all the time... Not to mention the excesive wear on the engine from all the short trips. Can't you walk / cycle / get a scooter? Aside from that a Kenlowe would work but only if you can plug it in while at work, they use a lot of energy though, water (and the big iron block) takes a LOT of heating Cheers Simon
  12. Hi Kev, I'm back in a VR6 after far too much messing about with jap stuff ;) how goes things with you? R32 now I see, on DTA & with the drive by wire too, very nice! 16V's do come with shorter ratio's but he said "my ABV has std box" so I think we're all assuming he's in a VR I though you were running a Gemini now though, your still on the 3.68, you've got an LSD though, right? I think it was PhatVR that always said the 3.9 was better, better on track I think I'd agree but I think the 3.68 is better on the road, and with 17" wheels and a little tuning it'll pull 150 anyway :D Cheers Simon
  13. That's not an easy question to answer as it's very subjective! Personally I've tried both (and am currently thinking about which to put in my new VR6 lol...), I would say that either are streets ahead of the 3.39 though. If you go with the 3.68 the KR 5th provides a slight OD 5th effect and if you choose the 3.94 a diesel 5th can provide the same service, you do end up with a fairly big gap between 4th and 5th though! My personal feelings would be 3.68 for a daily... But I know plenty of people would disagree with me ;) As for the LSD, yea a no brainer whatever the FD Cheers Simon
  14. First question, do you actually have a 3.68 in your box? Most VR's seem to have come with the crappy 3.39 (which is one of the reasons they feel so "lazy" in stock form), though I guess I'd add the caveat that I'm talking about the UK of course. In my opinion changing the FD (Final Drive) ratio is one of the most underatated mods you can do, changes the whole "personality" of the car. Cheers for now Simon
  15. So I guess this is try again, again... Cheers for now Simon
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