s1m0n

I did think it looked familier, like I'd seen in somplace in the past... It has Corrado.net stickers in the rear quarters too

Soooo... Still have the green VR6 but in a moment of madness I decided to rescue this dog: 20 years of dodgy workmanship and rust *sigh* what was I thinking! The story so far... Roof does not touch top of windscreen (rusted away) Offside rear arch made of bondo Boot floor rusted away from rear panel (almost full width) Nearside front wing bottom rusted away Offside drivers door made of bondo Front engine mount broken (due to stupid solid front mount placing undue stress on it) Brake master cylinder shot Brake fluid leak from comp valve Clutch engaging at floor (poss due to air in system) Both rear & offside front bump-stops shot New fan & rad fitted by retard as fan won't rotate(!!) Black front bumper / Rattle can red bonnet All paint either faded and / or different shades Sunroof tilts only & headlining shot Central locking shot Uh.. Good bits? Grey leather (but drivers seat shot), decent FK dampers, OK ish Borbet C's... It's a Corrado(?) I guess I'm gonna be doing some welding

If they are not adding it to their range (as a result of selling 10) I have no interest in purchasing. I could go out an get it cracked / broken a month after fitting an then what, wait for another group buy? In my mind having a minimum order filled (ie 10), allows you to make it (the item) again in singles! Maybe windsceens are different, I don't actually knowbut I agree it sounds like they are not very interested in our business and they certainly wont be getting my £300 wi5h that kind of approach Shame, I'd really like a heated screen. Cheers Simon

Cost's do sound reasonable ASSUMING: - 1) After the first order of 10 they will be adding Corrado to their product range(?) 2) The heater element wires are thin "modern" style(?) Re tinted or not - They usually offer both tinted AND clear, what will be the case with the Corrado(?) Would you be able to address these point corradlo? Better for the company to have one point of contact, if you don't want to, I would be happy to. Cheers Simon

Any progress on this? I would certainly be interested in taking one. Cheers Simon

OK... It's official, I do like my new C :dance:

Part of the problem is mechanical, the lever ratio's could use changing too. Having said that, I agree that the late model Golf ABS would be an improvement, I have the complete set-up that I'm looking to fit sometime in the summer. I don't know the VR6 or Golf MC sizes (I'd like to know them), I've also heard that the Audi quattro MC "fits" (or can be made to fit) and is 24mm, I don't know if this is true or not though. Kev has been looking at brakes over the years, not sure what he's currently using. Cheers Simon

I'd suggest making that change (to oil temp based delay), it should help. I've run a light one with a 3.68 and you can feel the difference when you just "rolling" in traffic, for me, I'd say keep a stock flywheel if your doing more than a couple of thousand miles a year on the road.

Yea the Subaru ECU has some pretty complex stuff looking after VVT, if you can keep them (it) locked till the oil is up to a certain temp that might help your stability. Umm bit off topic lol... sorry! I think if your gonna run "short" gears in a road car you'll need to keep the flywheel weight standard or thereabouts, lighter ones usually exacerbate drive-line shunt. Cheers S

Agreed. Some of the Subaru (and LOTS of the US street racing) community have been using 5-10% (or more) meth mixed with super for literally years. Straight Meth (basically alcohol) WILL degrade “natural” rubber and/or ally and/or unprotected parts but the points being made smack of sensationalism, tabloid journalism type stuff! If (and that's IF) you ran into problems you'd just change out some parts... Anyone wishing to educate themselves should check out some of the US street racing sites, lots of good info on the risks associated with running “funny fuel”. Alternatively, stick with the sensationalist BS and run round bleating about “what if”.... Cheers for now Simon

With the greatest respect, the problems not the car, it's the 2.5 mile journey! Whatever you buy the consumption is going to be cr4p because (as already said) it's in warm up all the time... Not to mention the excesive wear on the engine from all the short trips. Can't you walk / cycle / get a scooter? Aside from that a Kenlowe would work but only if you can plug it in while at work, they use a lot of energy though, water (and the big iron block) takes a LOT of heating Cheers Simon

Hi Kev, I'm back in a VR6 after far too much messing about with jap stuff ;) how goes things with you? R32 now I see, on DTA & with the drive by wire too, very nice! 16V's do come with shorter ratio's but he said "my ABV has std box" so I think we're all assuming he's in a VR I though you were running a Gemini now though, your still on the 3.68, you've got an LSD though, right? I think it was PhatVR that always said the 3.9 was better, better on track I think I'd agree but I think the 3.68 is better on the road, and with 17" wheels and a little tuning it'll pull 150 anyway :D Cheers Simon

That's not an easy question to answer as it's very subjective! Personally I've tried both (and am currently thinking about which to put in my new VR6 lol...), I would say that either are streets ahead of the 3.39 though. If you go with the 3.68 the KR 5th provides a slight OD 5th effect and if you choose the 3.94 a diesel 5th can provide the same service, you do end up with a fairly big gap between 4th and 5th though! My personal feelings would be 3.68 for a daily... But I know plenty of people would disagree with me ;) As for the LSD, yea a no brainer whatever the FD Cheers Simon

First question, do you actually have a 3.68 in your box? Most VR's seem to have come with the crappy 3.39 (which is one of the reasons they feel so "lazy" in stock form), though I guess I'd add the caveat that I'm talking about the UK of course. In my opinion changing the FD (Final Drive) ratio is one of the most underatated mods you can do, changes the whole "personality" of the car. Cheers for now Simon

So I guess this is try again, again... Cheers for now Simon

Yea, all stuff I don't want :cuckoo: oh well, bung the bits on eBay Light that came had broken clips so I took it out, light that was in the boot (other side) I tried on only to discover that has broken clips too, currently has both lights fitted but both will need replacing. Yes, squirter's, live and in full effect, another part that well need to be removed and flogged :lol:

hmmm... It's not looking good, think I need to take it round to the lock-up!

It's the next "big thing" you wait and see... :norty: The E38 boys will be all over this in 2011, big orange flashing lights will be so "in"!!! :lol:

So with some sense of déjà vu let s try this again...

Laughing... Maybe but it was awfully cheap, like couldn't possibly say no cheap, like scrap value cheap 8) snip.... Alternatively I may just sell it :lol: I've already been offered almost double what I paid for it... SOLD So... Sold the one at the top, just brought another one home... Lets see if I can keep this longer than 48 hours.....!!

Sooo.. On the basis that I don't seem to be able to function without at least one Corrado around the place, I have picked up what you would probably call a "fixer-upper..." I think that's what's known as "has potential...?" It's a solid (rust free) VR6 and was obscenely cheap so I guess we'll see :lol: Oh an while I'm messing, here's a shot of the drive from a couple of years back... 3 ABA's and a 9A :roll: .

Sorry I may not have been 100% clear. As has already been pointed out the 'study' on vortex refered to polyurethane MK4 rear beam bushes NOT rear wishbone bushes. It is true that (somewhat like the MK4 rear beam) the rear wishbone bush is, lets say - not presented in the best way to take best advantage of the materials (i.e. polyurethane) bearing properties... Which leads to "MY opinion that the MK2/3 polyurethane rear wishbone bush MAY also suffer from this increased wear / failure mode" and my preference for the hard rubber OEM R32/etc part. I also have had them (R32 bushes) for about 2 years as well and I think they are a 'no brainier' personally, not to mention a really good NVH / handling compromise I know what they are for :grin:

The bushes are the same part number, just no sleeve spec'ed on the VR6 (I don't know why). The R32 bush fits the subframe best if you trim it back a little, the rubber goes right to the end (it will make sense when you look at it) making it a bit tight to get in, trimming it back makes it perfect fit (in my experience). I've tried std v's poly (couple of different makes) v's R32/TT/LCR all on the same vehicle over the course of a few weeks and (IMO) the R32/TT/LCR are the best compromise between control & NVH. In addition to this Poly is at it's best when it's being articulated about a (stainless) insert, preferably in one plane that's perpendicular to that insert but the rear bush is articulated the 'wrong' way! i.e. instead of using the poly as a bearing your 'bending' it. There was a 'study' over on vortex about MK4 rear bushes (which are articulated in two planes) apparently they were wearing badly and failing, it would be my opinion that the rear wishbone bushes may also suffer from this increased wear/failure mode. When you throw in the cost and the fact it's an OEM part, it seem like a 'no brainer'.

WTF? I thought that thing was only fitted to the mk2? :confused4: I've heard about it before, but never taken the wishbones off the mk2 to see if it has them. None of the Corrados had it though - they all had the larger ID bush, and I assumed that the oversize hole was to allow alignment of the subframe to the body. I take it the R32 bushes with the smaller ID locate the subframe much more accurately on the body. Does anyone have a definitive answer on what this sleeve *should* be fitted to please? Also how long is the sleeve? Does it just go through the bush, or through the subframe too? Thanks! Should be fitted to 4cyl Corrado's too. I've never ever found one (a sleeve) all the times I've taken one (a Corrado) apart though! I usually fit R32 bushes but the one time I did fit the sloppy std kind I fitted the sleeve's too, they go through the bottom part of the subframe and the bush 'locking' them together. Personally I only ever use the R32/TT/LCR bush now.

Your talking Cr4p! Assuming a KR and an MLS compressed gasket thickness of 1.6mm and a nominal static comp of 10.16:1 then machining 1.25mm off the piston will increase chamber volume by 6.44cc and decrease comp to 9.09:1 If your working with a 9A with the same 1.6mm MLS and nominal static comp in the region of 10.94:1 milling 2mm off the piston will increase chamber volume buy 10.69cc and decrease comp to 9.19:1 (though you'd be better taking 1mm from the piston and 1mm from the rod bushing... Oh yea, like TurboTechnics/Stealth did it then!) Alternatively simply double up the MLS (on a 9A or ABF) to achieve a static comp in the 9.4:1 range giving good performance/economy/drivability with moderate boost and a fast responding turbo. Cheers Simon