Dub20vt

Awesome cheers. think i best get over to my local stealers.

I know the handles have been discussed at great length... i have no problem with my actual handles... foolishly when i bought my rado shell i didn't check the key fitted the handles... i doesn't :brickwall: is there anyway of altering the barrels to fit my ignition key? or is it a new/another key job. i haven't got remote central locking so having no locks isn't an option. any help appreciated

I didn't know Quaife did a straight cut box for the 02A/J? Straight cut boxes are usally dog engagement and you won't find many of those in a road car. The slower you drive them, the more they wear..... The Gemini is semi-helical (like the current selection of Quaife boxes) and as for the noise of straight cut being desirable, I think that's a matter of preference. I hate it personally. Yea it is still semi helical but the sound is the same. quaife box i find ideal... i have the syncro kit so not quite as aggressive as the dog engagement type. I had Quaife build my whole gearbox up for me. seemed like a good idea to make sure that all of it was as new as the gears. i find the syncro fine on the quaife kit... no probs as yet (touch wood). Quaife end casing: and the car it all started off in:

your probably right boost monkey... although if it's had an alarm fitted they may of opted to fit two actuators in the bottom of the doors rather than using the original pneumatic stuff.

Blimey not updated this for a while. well turned out my rear calipers were cream crackered so i ended up getting a replacement pair. gave these a quick cleanup and a lick of paint before fitting with a set of pagid fast road pads, new goodridge hoses. got to make up some new rear solid lines to suit as i'm also fitting an adjustable bias valve inside the car (have made a bracket to fit this). I've started stripping out the old ABS wiring as it's of no use to me. (going to be using the grommets that go through the rear seat floor to run the brake lines down to the rear beam. on the engine side of things.... i've fitted all the boost pipes and connected up, purchased a brand new PAS pump (old one was a bit worse for wear so thought it wouldn't hurt (was only £60 too which helped). all the water pipes have been connected although i managed to snap one of the vaccum connectors on the bottom of the inlet manifold so this is going to need replacing at some point . I've been having a bit of a mare trying to find out if the stock G60 in tank pump would be man enough to keep up with the 20v so resorted to buying a Bosch 044 motorsport fuel pump (as advised by someone at work with a high powered cossie).. i've made a mounting bracket up so it can be positioned under the car next to the stock fuel filter. I've got to sort some wiring out for it though as it'll need a good strong 12v feed and connecting to the stock pump wiring... i'm considering splicing into the original fuel pump wiring and using the feed to switch a relay to supply 12v to the 044 pump. anyone got any views on wether this would work? I've also aquired a RHD brake fluid reservoir (so i have the take off for the hydraulic clutch). will get round to sorting out the pipework for this at somepoint. My front Vibratec engine mount was looking a bit worse for wear... so this has now been replaced with a solid mount from a friend (he sells them through Ebay etc). Lastly can anyone tell me what this is??

nice progress... large spark plug socket is the way forward as they have the flats on them. worked for me anyway.... after a good soaking in penetrating fluid. if you're changing the shocks then a bit of heat on the nut first may help (don't go too mad though as you wouldn't want the rest of the shocks getting too hot.

i'm thinking of getting some of the lower set. ATS DTCs i think they're called. i'll be looking at 15s though for track use.

I've run a Quaife syncro 6speed kit with turbo power since 2001 with no problems, engine dyno plots showed 317bhp + 357lb/ft no problems as yet (crosses fingers). and you also get the lovely straight cut noise in every gear too :D (unlike a lot of the Gemini kits that are still available, mostly 3-6 kits).

20vs have been shown to rev well too though..... take a look at Graham Vanstones old 20v... admittedly NA but still the same head etc. that revved to 9k ish iirc.

i'd have a chat with bill brockbank with regards to rev limits without solid lifters... i believe he's pushing the hydraulics very hard going to 7800rpm... personally i would say anything beyond 8k will demand solids to be on the safe side.... i wouldn't fancy the bill for 20vs, 4 pistons and a new head :shock: make sure you do the valves aswell... as i'm sure you'll be aware they're the 20vs second weakest link after the rods.

are you still taking your suspension back to completely standard? glad to see some prgress, and congrats on the new job :D

if your policy has windscreen cover then it won't effect your NCB.

Cheers Rolex. :D Yea it's quite easy to get them out. i chain drilled around the original metal pin, then cut the small bits inbetween, pulled the metal pin out. Then i cut a slot in the remaining rubber which allowed me to slide a small metal spatula all the way round the edge of the metal sleeve, then pulled the rubber out. Metal sleeve was removed by cutting a groove in the sleeve with a hacksaw (i chose not to cut all the way through to avoid marking the axle where the new bush would sit), then using a small chisel i tapped the sleeve to split it along the groove which gradually turned up to allow it to be punched out once about three quarters of the sleeve had been split. to replace the rear beam bushes these would have to be removed anyway. today i've fitted new rear wheel bearings and discs. haven't fitted the pads or studs yet as i've got my calipers in pieces giving them a quick refurb. hopefully get a bit more done on sunday night i expect. back on it's wheels again though. :)

as promised. excuse the quality only had my phone with me and it was a bit dark under the car lol Rally design Poly race rear beam bushes Gaz gold rear coilover My nice and subtle exhaust if all goes to plan i'll have the new rear discs, wheel bearings, pads and wheel studs fitted but will see how it goes.

well finally got some pics off of my camera. rear beam off the car.. sleeve removed and with a quick lick of paint. i'll get some pics tomorrow of the beam fitted up with the poly bushes and my Gaz coilies. :)

if poly, nylon and solid bushes are soo bad... why have VW motorsport and many other race teams been using them for decades?? there's always a compromise to changing parts and wearing slightly quicker is quite often the outcome. as far as rear beams are concerned OE V poly... OE bushes have a built in amount of give (hence the stupid holes), this will make the car appear soggy (in worn cases). Poly very much makes the car more neutral, sharper turn in, less understeer, more controllable lift off oversteer. haven't had experience with this on a corrado but have on a couple of mk2 golfs which use the same chassis. Personally for my needs i'd pick polys every time... have chosen Poly race bushes for the 'rado from Rally designs.

yea they'll go straight on. only difference between the front eibach and the original Rado one on my car is that the original has tapered ends where as the eibach one is the same diameter throughout. rear straps up to the rear beam, using longer lower shock bolts.

the ibiza brembos are pretty crap for clearance on smaller diameter wheels. if you want the under 15s you need ET20 Compomotive MOs. i have 9x16 et15 KT1s that will clear my 310mm wilwoods... but then that's obviously not the information you're after. i believe seatcupra.net had a massive list of wheels that will clear them.

looks sweet. what wheels are they? really suit it.

also does anyone know if black pillar trims and shelf supports are sought after? got the ones out of mine that i won't be using again. Cheers in advance

well unfortunatly due to a death in my family progress has been very slow. :( i did manage to give the 'rado it's first wash sinse september last year though (didn't go too mad just a quick water wash).... here's the results..... need to get hold of a new rear badge aswell... although not really high on the list of priorities at the moment. Since this i have started stripping the rear end down to clean up the beam and fit new brake lines, wheel bearings, discs... plus also i'll be cleaning up the manky looking old mk2 calipers.

yea it is water cooled.

That's an awesome shell prep. wish i had the time and funds to take mine that far! where's your cage from? looks very custom cages to me?? i haven't really seen any other options for corrado shells apart from custom stuff.

5bar. :clap: that'll do nicely. think i best get a fuel pressure gauge on it just to check. i'd imagine it'll flow well enough for my measly TT motor.

wow what a bargain! nice one neil.