Jay23Sx

I'm going to be rummaging around in the engine bay in about 2 hours time, trying to find where all my coolant went this morning, and I'll try and snap a picture of the valve for you.

My initial thought was the bottom radiator hose, as thats where most of the water is located and it has emptied completely indicating a low down leak, but that was changed recently. While I know it's still connected to the radiator I didn't look to check to see if it's still attached to the engine, I'll have a butchers when I go out at lunch.

Morning, Well about 15 minutes ago I lost sight of my C in a cloud of steam. I did my usual commute to work, about 12 miles with typical queues for this time of the day, got in about 8 and parked up. As soon as I switched off the engine, and I mean to the second, I heard a great big hiss and was enveloped in steam. Once I could see what I was doing I found a great bit puddle of coolant running down the road. Looking under the hood I couldn't see any obvious pipe problems, with coolant mostly on the subframe and on the side of the airbox and very little anywhere else (none on the top of the engine or on the underneath of the bonet). Any suggestions on where this leak has come from? I can't really have a better look until everythings cooled down. Cheers.

My daily drive to work see's me at 22-25 mpg as it's all stop and starts and over taking. I've seen it at 34.9 during trips to Bristol on the M4 and I got 31.7 going to Devon on the A35/A31/M27.

I'm a big fan of the dealers for some parts, for example I went VW for my Injectors, coolant hoses, filters and most recently a couple of rattle cans (only a few pence more than Halfords but a better colour match). Edit: Oh, and my distributor was a genuine VW one, although I let the garage source that.

A pedestrian does have right of way once off the curb and into the road, but interestingly you don't have to stop if someone is standing at a zebra crossing (they have to step out before you are required to stop) which goes against what I've grown up with *. Being in a fairly rural area it's also worth noting that Horse's also have right of way if they are in the road. ** * This little fact was given to me by my driving instructor (who was also a driving instructor, er, instructor). ** Off topic I know, but it's another common complaint on the roads.

It's almost on topic, it's what was at fault with my KR with similar symptoms. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73130&start=15#p870376 After I posted this I took it to GCS in Horsham, they improved matters by giving it a tune (a decent one this time) and thought the Distributor was to blame. Put a new one on, no difference unfortuantely. They kept it for a few more hours and decided it was the aux air valve, put a new one on and she's been fine ever since.

Thats very similar, but I'm guessing this is from an older engine? The one in my C is stumpier and plastic (that picture looks like a metal unit to me).

It's not the ISV, that's to the right of the block at the top of the engine (I gave mine a good clean with carb cleaner as part of my fault finding and it made no difference to my problem at the time). The garage that finally found the fault gave me the part to show me, I'll take a picture later if you like, but on the invoice it stated that the item was faulty and the engine couldn't keep the mix right causing the problem. They also found a small vacuum leak, which they didn't think was the main cause, caused by a crack in the channel the dipstick goes in. They replaced that at the same time as it was only a couple of £.

which valve do you refer to? thanks It's behind the air box, off the top of my head one big hose, one little hose and an electrical connector, dark gray and the main part is a stubby cylinder.

On mine, after several trips to the garage, it turned out to be a valve in the vacuum system. That's after a second hand metering head was put in, and 4 new injectors, and a new distributor .. I still have the occasional starting issue in hot weather, but I've put that down to the fuel in the lines evaporating - a bit of throttle to get it to start and after a 200 yards or so it's running OK on it's own.

Really? It's that much? I know I drive a 16V but I purchased new injectors from VW for £30 each (that's main dealer) - £200 to get them cleaned seems steep to me, even if it's a VR6.

Thanks for all the tips, I was expecting it to come out a different colour after all these years obviously - this is just a DIY job after clearing up some rust so I don't really mind if it's that obvious as I plan to get it done properly at some point.

Sorry, only just picked up on this. You can only use the headunit to control the iPod. This is a "feature" built into the iPod, I imagine it's the same on the iPhone, to stop you getting distracted by it. Once it's plugged in I get "Audio Accessory Connected" on the display and I can't do anything with it. I find the best way is to make a playlist of the albums I want to listen to that day and put it in shuffle, then connect it ot the stereo.

Excuse the random method of capturing this image (not got my phone on me) and because of the office lighting it's not exact - but perhaps you'll see why I'm surprised. That's my car for comparison ----->

I've just got myself a couple of rattle cans from VW - they kindly verified my car is Tornado Red first - and I'm a bit shocked by the colour of the lids. OK - I know it's not going to be colour perfect, due to printing/ink variations but it looks much more like a Burgandy. Is this really how much my car has faded over the years? In fact, I'd have said my car hadn't faded and was in reasonable condition until I saw the cans. Paint code on the tins is L0Y3D (Tornado Red is also mentioned)- does this mean it's a newer version than the LY3D listed against my car or have they just changed the codes to allow for more colours in the range?

I got myself a Sony head unit the other day, that has an iPod/iPhone cable included, AUX input and USB input. Alongside CD and FM/AM that is. I didn't need the stereo to do hands free as my Tom Tom can do that if I'm long journeys (and would with the iPhone I imagine). http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165474 appears to be the closest model now.

correction, he owns the only all black FXX - as in no white stripe on the bonet.

I know this is an old post, but it may help anyone that finds it via a search, but my suggestion with paint codes is just to phone up your nearest dealer. In fact I just e-mailed mine from the VW website (the parts counter as they deal with the spray paint) and within half an hour I had a response - all I gave them was the reg.

I've spoken to the dealers already, quoted about £6.50 inc VAT for a can. Was thinking of using a product called Metal Ready to treat mine after I take it back (a spray to kill the rust and etch prime in one).

Out of interest what disc did you use on your grinder?

Thank you, just what I needed to hear. Looks like around £20 including bushes from AVS so that's not to bad either .. fitting it may be a different matter :) Edit: Shame I didn't work this out sooner as I've only just had the wheel bearing done and to save on costs it could have been done at the same time. Speaking of which, I'd like to recommend Elite Garages on that score. I used the Mannings Heath garage but they do have others in the area and it only cost me £80 inc VAT on a labor only basis. GCS, who I've happily used before, wanted £180 and VW in Horsham wanted £230 but that included the wheel alignment.

Hi People, Long time no type. Just reading over my MOT Advisory and one of the lines reads "Nearside front lower (Rear) suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement". Now can anyone translate this into english and let me know what needs doing :) Cheers, J.

There was definately one there, I've visited it before :) Run by a former neighbour.

Really really long shot, but does anyone know if the spray shop in North Holmwood is still there, and if so what's it called? I've tried with Google but it's really let me down!