CrazyG

Clearly there's a lot of work gone into that. Shame he doesn't have any taste - might as well have bought a Calibra and be done with it.

I take it you're not married/engaged. I wish I could keep my bike in the living room!

I believe they come on with the heated rear screen but it's quite annoying because the mirrors tend to take longer to de-ice than the window on cold days and I worry about burning out the element in the glass.

OK, so there are plenty of people out there who ponce about with crappy cars and make them even crapper, but why, when VW go to the trouble of crafting a sleek looking motor like the Corrado can something like this happen... http://www.barryboys.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30859 :shock: :( :nono: :shrug: :gag: :cuckoo: :shock: :( :shock: :( :shock: :roll: ??? I almost regurgitated my coronation chicken sandwich. It would have been a lot less trouble for him/her (I guess him) to slam it into a wall for a similar overall effect...

£400 cash in hand for 3 arches, driver's door sill and a couple of bubbly patches, with fresh lacquer over the whole of each treated panel.

Here she is after the little bit of cosmetic surgery... I'm very pleased :D

When I have made my fortune and get the builders in to make me a big heated garage... Cars 1. Corrado VR6 Turbo completely rebuilt to showroom condition 2. Aston Martin DBS 3. Audi R8 4. Audi RS4 5. Audi S5 (yeah, I'm quite keen on Audis) :lol: 6. New Scirocco (when VW put an R20 in it or whatever) 7. Porsche 911 GT3 8. AC Cobra 9. Bentley Continental GT 10. Bugatti Veyron Bikes 1. Triumph Speed Triple 2. Ducati Desmosedici 3. Ducati 1198S 4. Ducati 998R (yep, got a thing for Ducatis too) 5. Aprilia RSV4 6. MV Agusta F4 1000 7. Harley Davidson Fat Boy 8. Triumph Bonneville 9. Yamaha R1 10. Honda RC211V (Moto GP race bike) Best get saving then I suppose...

I work in Abingdon Jon. So far as I can work out, a 4 week pass for me would be £70. Fortunately, my boss passes by me on the way in so I had a lift the last couple of days and only had to suffer the bus for a short time :clap:

I'm not sure of the name because I was just given the number of a guy there for a cash in hand job but it's on Staplehurst Farm in Weston on the Green. Bloomin' excellent work though. I'll find out and let you know... and put some pics up at the weekend after I've given her a wash.

I have been upgrading to LED bulbs and I bought a LED flasher relay to replace number 21. The relay works perfectly but the LED indicators in the front do not work at all. Apparently, if normal filament bulbs are used in the front instead of LEDs, the relay will fail. Is this true?

I found an old magazine from 1992 in a cupboard (no, not one of those magazines) and there was a double-page G60 ad in there. Enjoy...

The VR's in the body shop this week to have some professional repair to a few nasty rust patches. Here are a few hideous pics... :gag: Offside front arch. Offside rear arch. Nearside rear arch. There are a couple of bubbling paint spots on the lower portion of the driver's door and slightly further back towards the rear wheel, plus some more rusty chips on the driver's door sill. The offside front arch is even worse than it looks because it turns out that there's already been some filler used for a hole on the other side. I've been told I could have it filled again but it won't last long, so I'm having a new portion of wing fabricated and welded on. Once the corrosion has been treated, filled (where necessary) and painted, the whole of each panel that has had paint will be re-laquered, so she should look very pretty indeed! :D In the meantime, I have had to subject myself to the use of public transport to get to work. This is an experience I would not recommend to anyone who can avoid it. My journey to work is approximately 10.5 miles which, on a clear run, will take about 17 minutes by car. With rush-hour traffic, that journey time is usually doubled. I was thinking that a few days of using the friendly bus service would not be such a hardship and that it might even save me some money that would otherwise have been spent on fuel. Wrong! I have to use two buses (often driven by miserable people who get even more upset if you don't have exactly the right change), followed by a 20 minute walk to get to my office, costing a total of £4.20 and taking an hour and fifteen minutes! I have to get out of bed an hour earlier, spend several minutes at a time standing in rain, sleet or snow and I only just get there on time. :cuckoo: Now, a 2.9 litre engine is not exactly economical and I put in about £50 of petrol every three weeks but if I was to travel to work by bus for three weeks, it would cost me 63 quid! Where's the incentive to use public transport then?! It's slow, it's expensive, it's not always totally convenient and you have to sit next to people who usually smell of wee. I miss my C so much... roll on Thursday evening!

Was there any solution to this problem? I'm getting exactly the same symptoms; bulbs are fine, fuses are all fine, wiring appears to be fine and the relays in the loom click when the full beam stalk is pulled. Like an old tree, I'm stumped :confused4:

Zak, I notice you have a panel of sound deadening missing from the underside of your bonnet. Did you remove it yourself and if so, was it because this had happened...? Looks like melting to me! :eek:

Recently, I've regularly been seeing an oil temperature reading of 116 on the MFA. Occasionally, it's creeped up to 118 and it's even hit 120 once. I've only had the car for 2 and a half months and I had no idea what type of oil it was running but I've been topping it up with 10/40 mineral. I'm guessing that the high temps are caused because I've mixed synth or semi-synth with mineral but I have had to top it up every 3 weeks or so. The guy in my local auto shop recommended that I top it up with Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabiliser, so I've put some of that in but am I better off getting it drained and replaced with fully synthetic 10/50? :confused4:

Here's mine with the Rado... The 4th bike I've owned in 7 years. She's fast as hell and makes the VR feel like a Sinclair C5 but I'm getting a bit tired of the head down bum up riding style. Think I might get myself a Triumph Speed Triple next... :confused:

Well, I'm chuffed! The overflow outlet is clear and the central locking pin works. Both problems were caused by a huge amount of caked-on filth behind the rubber boot :lol:

Hey Andy :wave: Yes, I do brim the tank when I fill up and the non-return plate is working just fine. The fuel seems to be coming up through the hole at the bottom of the rubber surround but it doesn't come up immediately after I've filled the tank :? Handbrake turns are out-of-the-question now - I don't want to have to shell out for new tyres as well as the secondary water pump replacement that I had yesterday :( Still, you don't run a VR6 to save money, do you?!! 8)

Everytime I go to fill up my VR6 there is a puddle of fuel sitting under the filler neck when I open the flap. I always have to use half a dozen paper towels to mop it up and I have no idea where it's coming from. I filled up last night and after driving about 15 miles I checked inside the flap again... no puddle, but I guarantee it will be back by the time it needs filling again. There doesn't appear to be fuel leaking from anywhere else but it's still a worry. There is also a problem with the central locking pin on the fuel flap where it locks itself again shortly after the car is unlocked and it's extremely annoying. I'm fairly sure the two issues are unrelated but you never know. Any ideas?

Looking good man. I might have to upgrade the brakes on mine because I had a slightly hairy moment on the way to work this morning. Braking from 90 to 50 on a B road didn't happen nearly as quickly as I hoped it would :eek:. Oops, did I say 90? I meant 61 :wink:. Still, no harm done. Just one question... what the hell is that thing on the top of your aerial??

I've fitted a new exhaust hanger and raised the rear coilies by about 15mm, so the ride is much more comfortable and I can worry less about speed bumps. The exhaust now only hits the rear axle when I go over really big bumps :) I've also tarted up the tatty rear calipers with a little smooth gold Hammerite and the front ones will get a lick of paint when I get around to it. Here's a pic of my 4 wheeled daily toy and my 2 wheeled occasional toy :thumb right:

Sorted! For future reference, a two foot piece of metal tubing slipped over the tool for extra leverage and the heat from a hairdryer works wonders :wink: I shall make sure my threads stay greased from now on!

I managed to unbolt the hanger from the chassis and detach the other end from the silencer, but what next? Do I need to get a different type of bracket for the new bush or attach it in some other way?

I have had FK Sport Edition Coilovers on for a couple of weeks now and I really want to raise the back up a little. Trouble is, the offside perch and locking ring seems to have seized already. I've tried dousing with WD40, holding the tool on the locking ring and banging the end of the handle with a hammer but it just won't budge. I've also tried wrapping a cloth around the handle for better grip and pulling to the point where my elbow feels like it's about to snap! Still no movement. The other three can be adjusted with very little problem. Any hints?

This might seem like a dumb question, but how do you get an existing hanger off the chassis bracket (other than cutting it), then how do you fit a replacement? Is the metal tube supposed to come out?