timthetinyhorse

a while back i posted a question about my clutch sticking down and it was mentioned that it could be linked to a faulty clutch slave or master cylinder, recently the car started to use large amounts of brake fluid and reqires topping up every couple of days, is the clutch system fed from the same resevoir as the brakes and could a faulty cylinder be causing this problem? how big a job is changing the clutch master and slave on the cutch as this requires doing if the clutch isnt working properly anyway. cheers rob

thanks for all the advice, heres to hoping its something as simple as that, wont be able to have a look till sunday though so gor now its driving with the flow of the traffic :-)

driving to work thismorning and the coolant light flashed for about 2 seconds (i think thats what it is, the one with the thermomiter in fluid symbol) then went out, kept driving and about 2 min later the whole dash went out, no mfa, no gages reading etc, moments later all readouts reapeared although everything had been reset to zero asif the battery had been removed however still no backlight, about a mile later everything was back on and working although the indicator lights were flickering now and again (interior ones on dash) and the coolant warning light flickered now and again, everything else was working fine the whole way through this i.e. the stereo, heating, external lights could this just be a loose fuse or am i looking at a big problem?? any ideas would be welcome as i could do without loosing the dash at half 6 when its dark, atleast the spoiler tells me im doing 60 though :D cheers rob

its a 1995 car with 55k on the clock, would love to post a pic of the idoler valve but i have no idea where it is

iv recently been having a few problems with my 2.0l 16v with regard to idoling when in traffic and at cold start, its a 9A engine and all is fine under normal working conditions but when started in the cold its idoling at about 2k as aposed to the 1200 it used to and when sitting in traffic its fine for about 15min uintill it begins to get warm then the revs begin to drop through the floor requiring light throtal inputs to keep it ticking over, i have been informed that it could be a faulty idoler valve? Could this be the case and if so can someone point me in the right direction as to where this is located on the engine? If this is not the case what else could be causing me this problem? cheers in advance rob

cheers mate, will have a look this weekend, the oil is coming from the area you mention so will check the condition of the pipework this weekend

as the tital says i realy need some diagrams/drawings of oil system on 9A engine as need to start pulling it to bits to sort a leak out, if anyone has any drawings/has auto data and wouldnt mind helping me out i would realy appreciate it, also if anyone knows if the engine has an oil cooler this may help as im strugling to work out what the corroded pipe thats causing on of the leaks does/is there for cheers rob

cheers peps, recon jus the bonnet bra for now like

has anyone got pics if there car will a full bra or bonnet bra, looking into gettin one but not sure what i want to go for

thats the daddy, i want one

cambelt was done just before i bought it, was thinking perhaps its not been tensioned properly?? aint had a chance to take a look yet though so still no further forward

all i can say with regards to the housing coments are that im glad i bought i small house up here in the north east within the commuter band for newcastle, paid 83k for it in january and an identical house next door has just gone up for 105k, to be honest small house prices up here dont realy appear to have changed much it would appear to be the larger houses that have changed, besides the point the financhial market always fluctuates, its a huge cycle and as neo3670 correctly states it wont be long till they are ramming credit offers and martgages to anyone again, anyhow back to the topic eh

happens as soon as you start the car and dont change once the engine reaches temp, so basicly its there all the time, going to check compresion and timing tomorow if i get time, after that going to look at cam shaft bearings, the one thing that makes me belive its the timing is that it was fine when i parked it opne day then started banging the next time i started it so thought the bely may have slipped during starting the engine

yeh deffo an engine noise mate, guys who came down are vw specialists, dont sopose anyone had a drawing/photo of the timing marks they could send me so i can check the belt hasnt/has sliped?? if not looks like the head is coming off.

time for my 1st tale of woe, did a 200 mile round trip on saturday and the c was running fine, its a 2l 16v btw, come to start her sunday night and we have a nice knocking sound from the engine, worried about the seriousness of this i turned off the engine, monday morning i phoned the local vw specialist (volksentre in blyth) for advice, they told me not to run it an that they would come out for a look, they have just been and its a funny one, the oil pressure is fine and the car is running fine with no hickups or anything, so the first step is to get the timing checked to make certain that the belt hasnt slipped causing the piston to tap the valve then after that is a good old engine stripdown, anyone else had this problem before?? the guys recon the noise dont sound terminal but its still a concern and the dont recomend i use it, any advice would be great, thanks rob

hmmmmm i feel sick, amazing to think that they made the estates though,

yeh its aqua, car is all sprayed now

well got a load of close up pics as got the car buffed down today but the laptop has decided it dont want to read the pics for some reason, its all a bit odd as it managed the other day, anyhow its rained on it now so will sort some pics once the car has been washed and waxed again, possibly on saturday or after im back from my holidyas, next on the list for when i get back is get the new light put in to smarten up the front end and start detailing the engine bay, intake manifold is getting sent away to be restored :-) also need to get the wheels refurbd as they are a little shabby,

yeh calipers are a temp thing as car is a daily driver, used dremmel to grin all the rust back on the doors and a black and decker mouse to flush the filler in

yeh i dont do halfords cans like, the stuf i got is from a place that my dad always uses and its realy good quality, cant wait to have the car in showroom condition for shows next year!!!

had mt paint custom mixed as halfords didnt have the correct paint code, have to say im glad i did, its a perfect mathc, didnt get a chance to buff the laquer down tonight as got held up at work so hoping to get it done tomorow and get some pics posted, real happy with the results so far millerman yours looks real good, especialy as you had to do a area that catches light from ever angle

yeh will get some close ups of the repairs tomorow once buffed, im not expecting miricals as its my first go but its looking ok so far i recon, will post more tomorow or the day after

after much pondering i have decided rather than lower etc im going to get my stock 16v back to factory condition by the end of the year, so today i made a start, its going to be a long drawn out process as its my daily driver so cant take it off the road but i supose thats just part of the challenge, thought i would stick a few pics up of what i got up too today, i know caliper aint aint standard but looks better than rust, let me know what your thoughts are, any advice is greatly apreciated as im new to all this stuff, sorry if this post is too pic heavy 1st of all was to sort the flaking laquer on the wing mirror, so rubbed down with 1500 wet and dry then gave it a few coats of laquer, have to say its come up realy well!! for some daft reason i forgot to take a pic after it was done next on the list was to sort the rust on the door so ground down the rusty areas first then rebuilt with plastic padding, once the padding had gone off that was flushed up with wet and dry, next the primer was applied, 2 coats in all then the paint, 3 coats, then 2 coats of laquer. all that is left is to buff the laquer in tomorow once its had plenty time to qure. the following pics show the process, more pics will be posted once the laquer has been buffed up and iv got more to report on the body work the next thing to do was sort out the tatty looking brake calipers, nice simple task of wire brushing all the loose rust and old paint off and applying 3 good layers of paint, and to finish off a few of the car, pics of the car have allready been osted but these do it more justice as it now has a few good layers of wax on it

nice one cheers mate

cheers, where is the sticker in the boot located so i can make sure