timthetinyhorse

Another step forward in the quest to get the car on the road, Finished the grill off and got it fitted, the fit isn't great as I had to repair the clips but it's on and better than nothing. Another little niggle was the cracked mirror glass so that has been removed and separated from the frame ready for a new glass to be ordered and fitted. And last thing for the day was to get the new indicators fitted. Couple of days off the car now as I'm on nights but should be finished next week!! Can't wait! Rob

Im going to paint and fit my wiper arms today but have a problem....... I can't remember what order they go in I.e. what arm where and what blade where. Can anyone advise? Cheers

Old fuel saver? Not sure what you mean bud. Yeah mine is fine warm start now, runs on the cold map for about 3 sec and then settles at about 900rpm :-) Cheers Rob

Well I'm glad to have a positive update for you all today. Suspecting that I may have had a vac leek somewhere I have replaced all of the old pipe clips with jubilee clips to make certain that everything is sealed and that I'm not getting any unmetered air into the engine. I also had a go at sealing up the exhaust, it's a bit better but still blowing, I think I need to get it up on ramps and have a proper look as its a nightmare trying to do it on my back under the car. So anyway with all this done I made the decision to start the car today and drive it round the estate (can't go far as she ain't taxed at the moment) I let the car get up to running temp and drove it a bit in 2nd, some slow running and some quick blasts (just to bring the revs up) and the car didn't cut out once! It got a tad lumpy sometimes at idol but other than that it appears to be good. So with that progress in mind I got the engine plastics stuck back on the car so I could close the bonnet and forget about the last few months, I hope you agree the bay is now looking good...... I also gave the freshly painted rear badge a quick polish up and fitted, looks much better than the old snapped one. Last of all a couple of current pics of the car, I painted the grill today as I wasn't happy with the finish so it's not back on, the point of these pics though is that the car is pointing the other way (proof I had it out lol) Cheers. Rob.

Spotted a red rado heading south on the M6 around the Perth area, vas driving an insignia Sri estate, gave a flash and wave but was going the opposite direction. Couldn't tell you what model or anything...

Ok mate cheers for the reply, will have a think and let you know

Very very good point!! I would be swapping those HTs over just to see!

Was just about to say leads.....do you have the proper tool for removing them? If you have removed them by just pulling the wire the insides can break, remove a plug from the faulting cylinders and test for a spark......

Did you check he spec of the wheels before buying them? What are the wheels? Sounds to me like they are well out of spec if the nut cover pushes off the cap.....

Hi buddy can you give me a price for the clutch slave, isv, throttle damper and throttle position sensor posted? Cheers

I would think so long as the wheel has clearence and is true you shouldn't have an issue......

If I change the TPS on the VR6 (OBD1) does the car have to go on vagcom to have it setup or is it just a simple swap? Also I remember reading somewhere that after cleaning out/changing the ISV that the car may have to be run for a while to adjust to the changes, is this true? Cheers

Thanks very helpful

Just been having a look on vagcat and I notice I need a support bar to fit the splitter, is this still available from the dealer? Also I see I need two different types of bolt and a sort of nut clip, can anyone tell me how many of each item I need. I can see the part numbers so just need amounts. Cheers Rob

Green corado at the mini roundabout in Whitley bay, has Jaegermeister on the side, fairly low, I think it's a VR.... Seen it a couple of times now, you must be the nearest corrado to me....

Looks like this may be what I have to do! I'm thinking it might be worth sorting the blow on my exhaust, taxing the car and taking it out for a drive to see if it's an issue that's occurred due to the car being sat for too long........ My car is a pure dry weather weekend car so it may just need a big run after being sat for the best part of 4 months? My wife informs me it's been off the road for more like 6 momth, I'm thinking it needs a run out

Lol wish it was that simple, got it "running" but have a stalling issue, think I need to drive it a decent distance now to see if it sorts itself out....

I'm thinking it might be worth sorting the blow on my exhaust, taxing the car and taking it out for a drive to see if it's an issue that's occurred due to the car being sat for too long........ Love the autocar quote, my dad used to subscribe to the mag :-) ---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 PM ---------- My car is a pure dry weather weekend car so it may just need a big run after being sat for the best part of 4 month ---------- Post added at 10:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:23 PM ---------- My wife informs me it's been off the road for more like 6 momth, I'm thinking it needs a run out

How is the position sensor calibrated? I might just have to tax the car and take it for a drive and see what happens I suppose.......might open up more specific symptoms.....just hope I don't get stuck anywhere lol I have ordered some new clamps in case I have a bad joint somewhere as a few are poor and i might try to move the damper up a few mm just to try it. Cheers

More from my technical thread.... Just had a look at the throttle damper and as far as I can tell its doing very little, if I open the throttle and release it the damper just compresses and does not slow down the lever with the wheel on, I have proved this by looking into the throttle and opening and releasing it, the throttle snaps straight shut, so from this (if I understand correctly) my throttle is snapping straight shut and not allowing the ISV to cycle and this the car is stalling or the revs drop dramatically below the idol point and take a while to settle. Hope I'm loooong at this the right way. The damper feels fairly good, when fully compressed it rises slowly, the only thing I can see is that the damper is compressed very little before it hits the throttle stop, am I correct in thinking if I lift the doer up a little it may function better? I'm sure everyone is sick of this thread but I need to sort this issue out ASAP. One last thing I did find is that I have a clamp missing off my exhaust at the rear before it goes over the rear beam and its blowing a fair bit, could this effect how the car runs?? I'm hunting for vac leeks also as the pipe work clips for my ISV are not good so don't go fully tight nor does the brake servo vac line above the fuel pressure regulator, I presume any one if these even having a slight leek could cause an issue? I will be getting some new clamps to fit Saturday I have tried to prove the maf by unplugging with the car running and when unplugged the car dies so I'm presuming the maf is ok by this? The crank breather line looks to be ok so I'm ruling that out (I had read in a few places this can cause an issue) Is there a simple way to locate a vac leek using some sort of smoke or similar or will this not work? Thanks in advance. Rob.

Just had a look at the throttle damper and as far as I can tell its doing very little, if I open the throttle and release it the damper just compresses and does not slow down the lever with the wheel on, I have proved this by looking into the throttle and opening and releasing it, the throttle snaps straight shut, so from this (if I understand correctly) my throttle is snapping straight shut and not allowing the ISV to cycle and this the car is stalling or the revs drop dramatically below the idol point and take a while to settle. Hope I'm loooong at this the right way. The damper feels fairly good, when fully compressed it rises slowly, the only thing I can see is that the damper is compressed very little before it hits the throttle stop, am I correct in thinking if I lift the doer up a little it may function better? I'm sure everyone is sick of this thread but I need to sort this issue out ASAP. One last thing I did find is that I have a clamp missing off my exhaust at the rear before it goes over the rear beam and its blowing a fair bit, could this effect how the car runs?? I'm hunting for vac leeks also as the pipe work clips for my ISV are not good so don't go fully tight nor does the brake servo vac line above the fuel pressure regulator, I presume any one if these even having a slight leek could cause an issue? I will be getting some new clamps to fit Saturday I have tried to prove the maf by unplugging with the car running and when unplugged the car dies so I'm presuming the maf is ok by this? The crank breather line looks to be ok so I'm ruling that out (I had read in a few places this can cause an issue) Is there a simple way to locate a vac leek using some sort of smoke or similar or will this not work? Thanks in advance. Rob.

Scroll through the German document and you will see that only part of the piston is flush with the top of the block so part of the piston is cast with an angled section on it :-)

I will try make the next one especially if it's a RR day however I need a running car first lol

I think it's study 127 you want, I have it in German so no use for anything, I'm trying to get an English version ---------- Post added at 4:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:19 PM ---------- http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_127.PDF

Yeah that could work although I think I'm going to do the plate surround black if I'm honest.