timthetinyhorse

Ok so I'm about to drop the car out of my car as I think I have an issue with it but if this proves Not to be my issue then I'm going to do a comparison test as Im low on ideas, My question is though how do I do the test..... Do I pull the fuel pump fuse out (if so which fuse)? Do I remove one plug at a time and test then replace plug and do next? What reading should I expect on a VR6 with 135,000 miles on (I understand that I'm looking for different pressures between cylinders but would like to know where abouts it should be at) Is it ok to do this with the cat off the car? And last of all will this tester be ok for the job or do I need one with a long riding pipe due to the plug recess.... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199553_langId_-1_categoryId_255216#tab3 Any help appreciated. Cheers

Not worried about the mot at the moment, need to get the car running at minimal cost,

Have you tested your current one with a multimeter?

Where us the drain plug?

As some of you will have seen I suspect my running issue is down to the fact I suspect my cat has melted... I don't want to replace the cat so it's going to be a decat pipe, my question is what decat pipes are people using on their VR6? Are other louder than others and do some fit better than others? Cheers

So today I checked a few things on the car that I had been advised to check to try and overcome my running issues, first up was to test the resistance over pin 1 & 2 on the crank sensor to make sure that it is working as it should, the good news was that it tested at 516ohm which is just where it should be, I also checked the ecu plugs at both ends and they were both in good condition so that isnt my issue..... The other news from today is after a lot of fighting with the car it started but was very very rough and wouldn't idol, if I tried to hold it a 2k rpm it would drop to 1500 as if it had cut out then pic back up to 2k, drop again and so on, What I noticed was that the manifold got very hot very very quickly and that there was a very nasty smell at the same time so here is the theory. I have changed the coil and leads and also checked the plugs and they are good and getting a spark, I have fuel so I'm also happy with that. The car now starts after a min or so but is rough and struggles to build revs unless you give it the boot, I'm thinking that the new coil pack and leads were the solution but due to the flooding I have caused over the past weeks there has been a large amount of fuel in the cat and this has melted it and is now causing a large amount of back pressure not allowing the engine to run properly. The cat could have been damaged when the aa managed to start it on the old coil pack over a month ago and it was running rich due to the damaged blue temp sender and then all of times the car was trying to fire but not holding it. I can't prove this until next week now as I'm back to work for 4 days however I'm feeling confident that I'm getting to the root of the problem especially after getting the car to fire today and the large amount of heat that built up so fast in the manifold. Cheers

Still battling to get my car running guys but I think I'm getting to the bottom of the issue now, michael'durham' I will drop young pm with progress.

Will check those relays now, what am I looking for when I check them? I just pulled the plugs out again and they were dry but black again. Cheers ---------- Post added at 2:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:24 PM ---------- I managed to find relay 109 but not 167, I do however have 67. Both were seated correctly and the pins were The other news from today is after a lot of fighting with the car it started but was very very rough and wouldn't idol, if I tried to hold it a 2k rpm it would drop to 1500 as if it had cut out then pic back up to 2k, drop again and so on, What I noticed was that the manifold got very hot very very quickly and that there was a very nasty smell at the same time so here is the theory. I have changed the coil and leads and also checked the plugs and they are good and getting a spark, I have fuel so I'm also happy with that. The car now starts after a min or so but is rough and struggles to build revs unless you give it the boot, I'm thinking that the new coil pack and leads were the solution but due to the flooding I have caused over the past weeks there has been a large amount of fuel in the cat and this has melted it and is now causing a large amount of back pressure not allowing the engine to run properly. The cat could have been damaged when the aa managed to start it on the old coil pack over a month ago and it was running rich due to the damaged blue temp sender and then all of times the car was trying to fire but not holding it. I can't prove this until next week now as I'm back to work for 4 days however I'm feeling confident that I'm getting to the root of the problem especially after getting the car to fire today and the large amount of heat that built up so fast in the manifold. Cheers

Ok so I just got the meter on the crank sensor and I have 512ohm between 1 & 2 then nothing over the other pins so looks like the sensor is good.....the ecu plug looks good but will give it some wd40 and clean the plugs up and try again......just to confirm the crank sensor is the 3 pin plug and the sensor is held in place with a small cap head bolt? Cheers ---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 AM ---------- Another update, after turning and turning the car eventually fired but was running so rough it couldn't hold idol and the throttle was very very sensitive.....it feels like its not firing properly.....any ideas? One thing I do notice however I could be wrong is that I have nothing at the rev gauge until it fires, am I correct in thinking the crank position sensor reads this? Cheers

Sorry bud yeah will try stick to one thread, I have changed coil and leads and at the moment I'm sure I have fuel as its flooding. Would this mean as I'm getting fuel the crank sensor is ok (I'm going to check it anyhow tomorrow) As for the relay, where are they located?? I tried looking around the driver footwell but with the car being in the garage it's very hard to even get through the door to look for things. What number is the relay? Cheers

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'm happy I have a spark at cylinder 1 and the coil pack and leads are brand new so I'm confident I have a spark at the other 5, I have fuel that's for sure due to the smell however I'm going to pull the plugs again tomorrow to make sure it's making it to the cylinders and that I don't have a leak.....I have had a look and can't find on though but best to double check this. Ecu connection could well be worth me looking at also due to the fact the car was stood outside in the snow and elements for over a month before I managed to get it into the garage, am I correct in thinking that the ecu is under the plastic cover on the passenger side? I presume the connection that goes bad is here? I have also had the battery on charge since yesterday and will leave it on until I get to working on it tomorrow to make sure I'm getting a full 12v to the coil. Priced up a crank sensor and I'm looking around £35 so before I spend the money I will get the multimeter out and test the resistance on the pins to make sure the sensor is damaged, if it's anything but perfect I will replace it :-) Bloody irritating me this fault as I plan on doing a full rebuild next winter so only need it to be good for the summer months and then it's coming off the road for a full rebuild but hell that's corrado ownership, and let's face it I'm learning all the time so at some point in the future I will be able to advise people as you guys are advising me :-) Thanks for all the advice guys, this forum is a bloody good resource and the only one I have actually used where people are genuinely interested in getting other peoples cars up and running, love the corrado world!! Can't wait to meet some of you once the red old girl is running and I hear that awesome exhaust note once again. Cheers Rob ---------- Post added at 12:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:02 PM ---------- Havny tried bumping it bud as its in the garage and it's a serious job pushing it in and out due to the slight slope and step into the garage.

I presume I could have got this wet when I lost a load of coolant when changing the blue temp sender?? Is there any way to diagnose the sender???

As anyone who has red my previous post about my corrado not starting this issue is starting to bug me now. The car will not start no matter what I try. The last time it was started was over a month ago and the AA managed to start it by turning it over for an age on a booster and it eventually fired and ran lumpy for a while ukntill it got warm and appeared ok. I have now been trying since then to start it again, it's had new leads, coil pack, blue temp sender and new vac line on the fuel pressure regulator. Now the one thing I noticed today was the exceptionally strong smell of fuel from the engine bay when trying to start it....the smell is very very strong but I can't work out where it's coming from so this is leading me to think I have a fueling problem. I was having a poke about and I found the pipe in the pic below loose, I removed it and found it wet and stinking of fuel, is this linked to the fuel system?? I wouldn't have expected to have fuel at the inlet manifold. If anyone can give me any further advice here I would be over the moon, could I have a blocked fuel filter? Blocked fuel line?? Iv had a good look for a fuel leak and can see anything at all. Thanks Rob

After having no joy with my dealer when it came to getting the small section of vac pipe for my fuel pressure regulator I decided the Internet was my friend some had a hunt about (vw had a minimum order of 5m at £8.67 p/m) The regulator pipe diameter is 3.5mm, it's a rubber hose with cloth braiding and it would appear it has been used in the air cooled models for a very long time, once I realised this sourcing the stuff became very easy!! So here it is (I hope) and my order is placed so providing I get both this and my coil pack this week I should be up and running Saturday!! http://www.justkampers.com/n203535-vacuum-hose-3-5mm-diameter.html Just thought this info may be useful for you all....... Rob

My coil pack is on the way so I'm not saying no yet :-)

As my dealer is totally unwilling to help me out with this I need some vac pipe for my fuel pressure regulator.... Dealer will sell me 8m for £70 but that's just bloody stupid! Give me a shout if you can help, aim to start the car this weekend so I'm getting twitchy lol

Ah cool didn't know about the other site...will keep it in mind when my pockets ain't deep enough for dealer parts

Looks like I made a sound purchase, will report back when fitted

Lol more than that I was running on it for a few months!!!! New ordered so should be up and running next week :-)

Just ordered a coil pack for my VR6 from euro car parts........ Original price was £124.80 but got it for £93.60 using a voucher code, I'm one happy shopper today :-) Now I wait for the negative comments about buying from euro.......

Thanks :-) Just about to order a new coil pack so fingers crossed I will have the car running by the weekend!!

Ah sound that's not the end of the world thanks for that!! Need to get the old girl up and running

You know what sort of price I'm looking at for a new coil pack from the stealer? I'm presuming I'm correct in thinking the could most certainly be the cause of my car not starting and having very black plugs..

Today more progress was made with the non starting issue......I removed the fuel pressure regulator and found that ISPs looking almost brand new so no worries there.......the coil pack however was a different story!! I removed it after noticing a fairly bad crack in the plastic insulation on the left as shown below. The first shot shows the bottom of the coil pack with a few cracks and the 2nd shows the state of the pack after the bolts were removed and the plastic as good as fell off, the metal is exceptionally badly corroded which would tell me this coil is destroyed...... I started to strip the coil down and more plastic was crumbling away and the extent of the mess was pretty clear, the layers of metal were separating and some on the corners had begun to snap off....... So the solution here it would appear is going to be replacing the coil pack and not the fuel regulator as I first thought, not all bad ough as it now means I have a spare regulator :-)

Today more progress was made with the non starting issue......I removed the fuel pressure regulator and found that ISPs looking almost brand new so no worries there.......the coil pack however was a different story!! I removed it after noticing a fairly bad crack in the plastic insulation on the left as shown below. The first shot shows the bottom of the coil pack with a few cracks and the 2nd shows the state of the pack after the bolts were removed and the plastic as good as fell off, the metal is exceptionally badly corroded which would tell me this coil is destroyed...... I started to strip the coil down and more plastic was crumbling away and the extent of the mess was pretty clear, the layers of metal were separating and some on the corners had begun to snap off....... So the solution here it would appear is going to be replacing the coil pack and not the fuel regulator as I first thought, not all bad ough as it now means I have a spare regulator :-) Whilst I was busy with the coil pack my mate got busy with the loom wrap and did a bit of tidying the engine up, this meant removing all my plastics again however after working on the car for a few weeks has meant these are looking marked so will most likely be getting painted again..... So here are the sections of loom that we're done, I forgot to take before pics I'm afraid. Not a massive amount of progress I'm sure you will agree but it now feels like I'm getting somewhere :-)