VR6Joni

Are they not just Viton O-Rings. Just get correct diameter and cross section. Penny's each, from any good hydraulic/pnumatic suppliers. Think we use Eriks UK at work (may have to buy in bulk from them though).

I used a new blank eeprom (from RS or Farnell), just read the original and put it in a safe place. Then just modify the maps in you original binary file to suit using the Air Fuel Ratio readings that had been recorded. Drop me a PM if you want a copy of my working XDF file, your also more than welcome to a copy of my current binary file.

Just a quick update. I have now sorted the checksum, so no more annoying checksum fault codes. :cheers:

Look at the Garrett website, all the info is there. As for maps, do your own, I did, its really not that hard as long as you have the correct tools. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=86226

Hi mate. First and foremost read the Forced induction VR6 thread. If I was doing what you seem to be suggesting I would do the following: Just put in reduced compression forged pistons, increasing compression will only make tuning very difficult and most likely reduce max power. 9:1 has to be the way to go. Get a turbo that will spool up nice and early and give you a steady 10psi throughout the rev range. From what I have read, a ball bearing gt30 series would be a good choice and more than adequate but these don't come cheap. Much cheaper versions are available but these will not spool up quite as early. And at the end of the day you must remember you get what you pay for. I say turbo rather than super charger as I believe a low boost application can be achieved for the same price and give you a better torque curve, therefore more drivable car (apart from in the wet). I pretty much have the stage 2 kit (and more) in the link below and working towards stage 3 as we speak and will still probably end up sticking on a turbo before I'm happy. http://www.stormdevelopments.co.uk/12v-2-8-2-9-vr6.html Either way at 10psi I'd not bother with an intercooler, but aquamist or equivalent is then a must, anything over 10psi intercooling then becomes highly recommended. I'd say if you can intercool a VR for Also get yourself larger injectors and a remap.

I know it says Really random question in the title, but you have just taken it to another level :lol: On a serious note, do a search in the Ice and security section, I'm sure the answer will be there.

^^^^ Yeah I should have mentioned that. I used some long reach pliers/plumbers wrench.

Its a struggle but you can pop the bonnet with the grill removed, I learned the hard way when not tightening the bonnet pull cable tight enough. I had not fitted the grill at that point so will probably involve destroying it, probs less hassle than a window or door lock though. Therefore not actually breaking in, so I posted it up!

Its all in the caliper bracket really, I'm fairly sure Ibiza/Leon brackets fit straight on. Otherwise its a custom bracket which means you can have almost any disk/caliper setup.

As were on the subject of manifolds. Has anyone ever tried one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/exhaust-manifold-turbo-for-VW-VR6-golf-jetta-MK3-T3-T4_W0QQitemZ270480816028QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef9e9b79c The seller has quiet allot of vw turbo parts, even 24V manifolds. Anyone ever tried any of them?

280 and 288 hubs are the same fitments, quite likely they are exactly the same.

I very much doubt it as the original manifold has much much space to play with, I'm sure VW will have chosen runner lengths/bores for maximum top end power, that's what it feels like anyway as bottom end power is pants. Look at Shricks and VSR's they don't make any more power than a standard manifold at high RPM's.

Indeedy - looks like a balanced length inlet, presumably to be welded/fixed into a short runner. On the lower one - think Kev likes the colour scheme you get with welded stainless. :? I was thinking along those lines, but I do believe you've hit the nail on the head with fitting it inside a short runner. I'm sort of confused as to why though as the inlet runners are still gonna be way to short to maintain air speeds to give any ram effect. But if I'm wrong I'm sure Kev will correct me or give the actual reasoning behind this.

Was the boost always at 1.2bar or did you stick that 70mm pulley on. :D

Any updates on this! Especially rr results. V. tidy car mate, I'm roughly following your footsteps so would be nice to know how things are going now.

Bump!

That sort of makes sense, however the Rotrex doesn't work in the same way as a G60 charger for example (positive displacement), as it needs to spin up to a fairly high speed to generate boost (See turbo adiabatic efficiencies on the garrett website) as the Rotrex uses a turbo compressor wheel/housing! For example I see next to no boost up to about 3K rpm however from then on boost increases linearly up to the red line. This probably makes it easier to drive flat out, however you will certainly not get noticeable amounts of increased power at the lower rpm range. I knew this was the case when I bought mine, but did hope for a little more than I actually got. As your local to me, I'm more than happy to take you for a quick spin when mines back on the road so you can see what its like. There's also a turbo'd VR local which might be useful to take a look at before you start spending.

Anyone! There seems to be plenty of 6 peak ones, Someone must know where to get the 7 peak ones from.

Oh dear, may as well get a Gruven parts alloy one then, anyone know what the crack is with strictly dubs their website seems to have dissapeared!

Unfortunately the pulley is damaged :(

Anyone know where I can get one of the above as you have to buy the whole assembly from VW. Also was gonna try my luck with strictly dubs to see how much they could get an alloy Gruven parts one to me for, but they seem to have disappeared off the map, anyone know what's happening there?

I think I know what your saying but not 100%. Am I right in saying that if you have a cam sensor fault you can't run sequential so it runs in batch mode, but the injectors fire once per crank rev. You would then expect to see half the value but because of the 6x increased load on the injectors wiring the opening time will be longer and because of the all 6 injector are open at once rail pressure will drop off a bit therefore requiring the sort of figures shown in the table in the first post.

:epicfail: Holy Schiite, WTF is it made of? Gold!

Looking at the original maps, MAP 2 is leaner :scratch: Whether this is to account for other cold running variables I don't know. Also even when the engine is up to temperature, the ECU always assumes a lambda value of 1.00 at WOT, which I why I asked if anyone knows how it manages to generate a WOT adaption value. On the adaption values note, this is also how I determined idle fuelling levels, basically I hit the idle adaption level limit without any tweeking (I believe this is about +/- 0.3). On initial setup I set up partial throttle adaption level to as close to 1.00 as possible, i.e. 14.7 on the AFR gauge when driving under partial throttle. The was done by tweeking the MAF potentiometer, I'd highly recommend using a multi turn potentiometer as a single turn pot is very sensitive. Once you have a good partial throttle adaption level (near to 1.00 as possible) and remapped the WOT you should only be left with a problem with the idle adaption level, I saw idle adaption levels of ~0.7 which threw up a fault code. Initially I took a full 30% off the idle fuelling levels, this was way too much and the idle adaption levels went to ~1.3 which gave me another fault code. I found that about 85% of the origional fuelling levels gave me acceptable results (i.e. didn't throw up any fault codes)

Just bought a set at full price so someone could really upset me by confirming that they can do Corrado kits at 50% off. :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: