VR6Joni

On my setup I used the the late mk3 vr6 hoses and they were fine. Only wierd thing was the banjo bolts were a fine pitch thread on mine (1mm pitch) but it sounds like you already have them. Also 6mm spacers were a touch too much for mine so make sure you have a bit of flexibility.

I'm planning on well over 300bhp, and putting the power down is a concern. I have a fully adjustable suspension setup so can tweak it if I have scrubbing issues. Anyone know what the ideal offset would be for 8J? Considering my suspension give a little more clearance than the standard.

I'm quite fancying some new rims too, cos condition of mine let the car down a bit. I like the mesh style with black spokes and stainless rims, anyone know if the stainless rims are heavy and compromise handling? Also would like to go 8" wide for extra grip, does this defo require arch work?

OK, drop us a PM when ever, starting to get a bit of light after work now so you could nip over any afternoon 4.30+ joni

To my surprise the wiki is still there in its entirety: Part 1 Part 2 Jonathan

This is the list I used from the Wiki I think, not sure its available yet. I also have a copy of the guide if you want. Price's are not correct but they aren't a million miles off. TIMING CHAINS (lower chain) 1 x lower timing chain - simplex 021 109 465B £30.26 1 x lower timing chain tensioner 021 109 467 £21.17 2 x bolts, lower timing chain tensioner N905 350 01 £0.14 1 x lower timing chain guide rail 021 109 469 £2.93 1 x lower pin 021 109 471 £1.38 (upper chain) 1 x upper timing chain - duplex 021 109 503A £60.98 1 x upper pin 021 109 511 £9.08 1 x Bolt, tensioner for Golf Mk4 top pad 021 109 507B £23.81 1 x Tensioner, Golf Mk4 top pad 021 109 509E £7.14 1 x mid pin 021 109 515A £5.78 1 x upper timing chain guide rail 021 109 513 £7.89 1 x hex bolt N010 272 4 £0.26 1 x hex bolt N010 352 10 £0.64 CLUTCH Clutch clutch kit; p/plate, f/plate, release bearing 021 198 141AX £120.00 6 x 12 point head bolt N101 010 01 £0.32 each 1 x Guide sleeve 02A 141 180A £8.07 1 x Oil seal 085 311 113 £12.10 1 x Round seal N903 543 01 £1.86 3 x spline socket head bolts N903 554 04 £0.25 each 1 x clutch release arm 02J 141 719B £13.76 1 x Spring, clutch release arm retaining 012 141 741 £0.38 1 x Ball Pin, clutch release arm pivot pin 02A 141 777 £2.38 1 x Grease for clutch plate G 000 100 £4.96 FLYWHEEL 1 x Flywheel 021 105 269BX £73.95 10 x flywheel fixing bolts N905 398 01 £0.90 each Jonathan

My C came with the seats fitted standard. You could nip to where I work tomorrow when I finish (3.30pm) or early next week during lunch but then I'd only have 45mins free. I've left you a pm.

I work near the arena /don valley stadium. So quite close to where you work, I'm surprised I've never seen you going to/coming back from work. I'll try to have a look behind fuse box over the weekend (any tips on getting it loose enough to see behind it as I've never needed to get to it in the past). I might be towing a mate to exhausts UK on Saturday so if you have time I could look then, or otherwise I would say a quick look one lunch time or possibly a Friday afternoon as I finish at 3.30 so there's still a bit of light.

I'm and electronic engineer, so figuring this out should not be a problem! I also have heated leather fitted so may be able to reference that. So do you have all the wiring routed and just need to plug them into the fuse box? If its a standard loom I could look at mine over the weekend if you give me a clue (picture) what to look for. I work in Sheffield so a quick look at lunch time or after work should be possible if your not a million miles away. Jonathan

Thanks a lot for the info, you were spot on with the boot switch theory, it was wired into same alarm input. The boot light was not clipped in properly and the ground for the bulb retainer was shorting to the body, now sorted. Now one happy C owner. :D :D :D

As zak said can be done. If I remember correctly, bits to look out for are; one or two bell housing bolts go through the front engine mount (extra tricky with oil cooler on 12V engine). Also I would recommend removing the drive shaft coupling from the box on the drivers side, I recon this cost me a good hour the first time I did it. I learnt the hard way. It should drop out OK then.

This is a USB drive MP3 player that connects over the pioneer IP bus. I thought this was exactly what I needed! WRONG. Yes it will play MP3's from a USB drive including a Hard drive (15000 song and 500 folder limitation). But the user interface SUCKS, to me it seems like an unfinished product, slow(boot up) :mad2: , 8 character text display which is very limited and makes identifying songs tricky in a large library. Absolutely woeful track navigation :sad: (up/down folder, up/down tracks) with no selecting a song before playback :censored: Anybody want one, any offers accepted. I'm a bit of a gadget freak so my standards may be high, but for me a product like this should not be released onto the market, all that would required with this product is a bit more memory for track info (we all know how cheap memory is these days) and album/song selection (little bit more software development) for it to be spot on. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN PIONEER FOR RELEASING A HALF RATE PRODUCT considering their good products I've used in the past. Knowing all Corrado owners expect high standards, just thought you deserved to know my opinion on this product.

I'm in Ardsley, don't tell me your local too? You going to the CCGB meet on Sunday?

I still think its not worth looking into because to do it properly it will cost more than a mechanical driven charger. What's the cheapest, a drive belt or all the electrical equipment. I'd like to bet all the electrical equipment is more expensive, plus you have limited use (battery life).

The connector is below the inlet pipe work to the throttle body, clipped to the inner wing. Then into the loom.

Just thought I'd update this thread with a bit of useful info, I managed to get a reasonable discount from Arrow Precision for all 3 VR6 sets. Pretty much made it pointless buying from US. Probably worth bearing in mind that he had 2 in stock which they may have obtained at a good exchange rate though. Also were easy to deal with and on the ball.

The clifford LED flash's 5 times when the ignition is turned on, in the manual fault code table this corresponds to bonnet or boot switch and I don't have a boot switch. My alarm is a concept 400, would be nice to know if anyone has any idea why I'm having this problem.

bump

Can someone do me a little favour and check voltage on the bonnet switch when it is open and closed as I have been getting false alarms due to this bonnet switch recently. I have 0V when the bonnet is open and 0.7V when it is closed (switch pressed down). Thanks Jonathan

I'm once came across a web site where a guy worked out the actual power required to generate a reasonable amount of boost through out the full rev range. The long and short of it was a several hp motor would be required(assuming 100% efficiencies), which equates to around 5KW. At 12V this is 416 Amp, assuming you actually manage to get hold of a suitable motor and fit it under the bonnet along with the required electronics/wiring it would probably last a grand total of 10 minutes until your battery is dead. It would most likely be a lot cheaper to go a proven charged method (engine driven / exhaust gas driven) than even trying to get any sort of worthwhile power from an electric method. As stated above "SAVE YOUR MONEY!"

Genius :lol: , bet that went down well.

I'd not come across those before, unfortunately they don't have enough of what I want to make it worth it, but I'll defo bear :scratch: them in mind in the future as they don't require the dreaded wire transfer.

I've been compiling a list of parts I want recently, and it seems the yanks tend to have most of them cheaper even though the exchange rate is a bit pants at the mo. So I click buy, get to the checkout, register, giving all my details to them, and then (on more than one occasion :censored: ) I find I can only pay by wire transfer. Which seem impossible with online banking. I'm working away at the moment, and even when I'm at home I rarely have time to go to the bank. Can someone please explain why they will not take plastic or paypal, seems they don't want my hard earned cash! :brickwall: Just needed to vent my anger over this one. :notworthy: to any UK company that can match the US for prices especially ARP bolts at this moment in time.

Anyone who has purchased the ARP head and cam bolts or can recommend suppliers, where can I get them from and what will the damage be? Also where is the best place to get a 9:1 stainless spacer for a VR6?

Andy at Storm got back to me on Friday and said he reckoned I'd be looking at ~13psi with my current pulley set up, this was a little higher than I expected and is no doubt gonna mean charge cooling will be required. Anyone got a vague idea of what BHP this is likely to generated with lowered compression ratio (9:1) and standard management? Also will it be safe to run the charger in without charge cooling (I.e. below 4k rpm)? On the charge cooling note, would I be right in assuming a very basic system could be easily made with a pump (possible fuel pump), a regulator (check valve) and an injector(s) and obviously some electronics to power the injector. And before anyone says anything, yes I am a tight git.