VR6Joni

I was thinking along these lines too, lambda appears to be ignored at WOT (i.e. just inserts a 1 regardless as seen in the log) so will probably be some other fault scenario. However it does seem to generate a WOT adaption level, quite how I do not know.

VR6 Motronic remapping at home courtesy of VR6Joni! What you will need: EPROM programmer, I doubt one exists that will not program a 27C512. A few 27C512's as it's annoying waiting 20mins to blank them! A UV Eraser. A 28 pin DIP socket. Soldering skills. A fairly technical mind! A laptop. VAG-COM A wide band AFR controller. First of all read which ECU you have with the VAG-COM or look at the label on it. It should look something like this:021 906 258CP. The CP is the important bit, this is the code revision which also means the maps will be at different locations in the memory. I have details of where the maps are located for AF or CP revisions up to press and will distribute them on request (PM me). This will make life much easier although I had to work out the locations for myself on my CP ECU so it is possible to do on other versions, just needs a bit of extra work. Remove the ECU! I'm sure there are several guides online, if you need to use them you probably shouldn't be doing this anyway. You can learn from my errors though! Which were the connector latch pulls further out then you may expect and no matter what you might think the ECU will come out with the bracket attached. Once it's out you need to take the the EPROM off the PCB, it's the 28 pin though hole device as pictured. You really should use a rework station for this which has a soldering iron and hot air blower in one unit. I was too eager to wait until I was in work so just used a bog standard hot air gun on LOW! in combination with a soldering iron. I find its easier if you remove excess solder first using a solder sucker. Take note of the orientation of the chip, it should be pin 1 (pin 1 is indicated by the notch on one side of the chip) closer to the centre of the PCB. Once the EPROM is removed, remove excess solder and fit the socket. Now your ready to MAP and REMAP. Original EEPROM Socket Fitted Newly Mapped EEPROM in place Now you will need to set up your EPROM programmer and read the memory with the included software and save it as a binary, make 2 copies, one as an original backup and one to modify. I save a different copy at every stage of the REMAP. Now you will need to download a copy of WINOLS Demo and TunerPro. With TunerPro you need a MAP definitions file called a .XDF, this contains information for the various MAPs in the binary file taken from your ECU's EPROM. The XDF is basically just a list of MAP labels, memory location and conversion factors etc. I have XDF's for the CP and AF ECU's at the moment these may be compatible with other versions though. Install TunerPro and run it, then open a XDF file, the correct one if possible. Then open your .bin file, you should then be able to open various MAP's and you should be looking at a pattern of numbers in a table, if they are random or all the same your probable gonna have to modify the XDF to suit your ECU revision, if it looks like good data ignore the next paragraph. If you need to modify the .XDF file install WINOLS and run it. Create a project with a known binary eg. AF and allow it to find all potential MAPs. Then create another project with your ECUs binary. You should see 2 sets of very similar potential maps, what I would recommend you do is write the address of each known map down in order and look where they are in the potential maps list. Eg. you could find fuel wide open throttle (12x12 MAP) is between a 4x8 MAP and another 12x12 MAP, which just happens to be idle fuelling and WOT map 2. You should be able to see this pattern in your binary with very similar numbers if not the same. Continue this process until you have found all the MAPs that you wish to edit. Note down all the locations and then modify the XDF file to suit. Hopefully now you should have what looks like valid data in TunerPro. Now its time to remap. I'm assuming you've probably done some significant mods by this stage and want to make the use of it so I'll start with WOT maps. If you've done something serious like turbo or supercharge your VR you may well have used Crazy/SensibleDaves (Big thanks to Dave for this) potentiometer mod to get you going, I used an active electronic version to guarantee a linear output. Adjust this to minimise adaption values in measuring block 6 using VAG-COM, you'll have to clock up a few miles for these to appear. Otherwise adjust it so that AFR is good on initial startup and driving. Now you have a drivable car its time to generate some logs, I log ignition timing with VAG-COM and the AFR with Logworks2 software which was included with my Innovate LC-1. Find an airstrip, start logging, stick it in third at idle engine speed and floor it to the redline making sure AFR's stay at none engine killing levels, repeat this logging procedure a few times. For Fuel WOT maps: With your results generate an error factor value table throughout the rev range, I do this by taking a reference point I.e. when you change into 4th, using that point in time write down the AFR's logged next to the engine speeds from the VAGCOM log and work your way backwards referencing the times on the AFR log against the times in the VAGCOM log. Once you have an error factor table copy the Fuel WOT MAP from TunerPro into a spreadsheet and multiply the values by the corresponding engine speed error factors. Then copy the results back into TunerPro, I converted them to an integer in the spreadsheet using the following formula: New Map Value =int(OldMAPValue*ErrorFactor) Example spreadsheet used to calculate corrections required I found that just changing Fuel WOT MAP 1 works, so what MAP 2 does if a mystery, answers on a postcard please! Or a PM will do. Ignition is a bit more of an art, I look at the timing in the logs and simply adjust timings to try and eliminate detonation. You can tell that knock has been detected as you'll see that the ECU has retarded the timing away from the map values, it does it in quite large steps and is obvious as you see timing jump away from the MAP values by about 5 degrees at a time. (see 5800rpm on example spreadsheet) When you are happy with the changes that have been made save the binary and program a new EPROM with the binary file saved in TunerPro. Plug the new EPROM into the ECU, put the ECU back in the car and take it for a blast, once again logging everything. Repeat the steps above as many times as it takes until your happy, blank the EPROM in the UV eraser as soon as you remove it as when it comes to making smaller tweaks it gets annoying waiting, hence having a couple spare. Original maps as viewed in TunerPro My slightly tweaked MAPs Example AFR Log

Hi mate, any R32 progress? Also did you contact Rotrex to see if spares are available?

I have noticed this, I'm fairly confident this will be down to the ISV opening up on throttle release. I can see why this frustrates some people, it's like the engine is out of sync with your right foot and seems impossible to rectify. Fly by wire cars are similar to drive but you can compensate on quick gear changes by advancing your right foot movements a touch, however with the ISV response seems slower to me. On a side note this effect is increased by a few hundred revs with forced induction or at least superchargers, I've been meaning to put a restriction in the ISV inlet for a while to try and reduce this effect. Not gonna happen for a while though as my car is back in bits :bad-words:

If I were you I'd just take the new chip and ecu to any good tuning company, they should be able to put the new maps for the supercharger on your existing ECU, therefore eliminating software difference issues as no doubt the new chip has American software on which I think is safe to say is different from the European versions. Also what does VAGCOM list as the software version with the new chip in? That would give you a good idea of software difference issues.

Nah I'm just really good with photoshop :tongue: Yes it really is my car :) All designed and built by me too, although I do bounce a lot of ideas off my friend Andy who built the Polo V8. Good drills. Just wondered if you were just doing the web bit for your partner etc... Obviously a very talented girl then :salute: Got to say I love the "Fcuk it, stick a V8 in" school of thought from you and your friend Andy!

Scalextric! What else can I say. But :salute: There are some seriously modded cars on here by the blokes, but I think you may well have topped the lot, also all this from a girlie :shock: . Sorry for asking but is this actually your car? :ignore: Anyway good skills, I didn't think I'd ever see a V8 in the front of a C. :salute:

Mine's a CP so the AG stuff will never of any use to me really, but designing electronics for a living I'm pretty sure I would be able to spot any differences. In fact it'll probably say a PCB version number on it somewhere, might be useful for others out there though.

By superchip, do you mean a remapped chip? If so I can transfer the maps between an AG chip and a CP chip. If the software has been modified in any other way your screwed, or should I say its more effort than its worth. I've never seen inside an AG ECU but would imagine it's different as the CP will need to deal with the extra immobiliser hardware. But you never know, the hardware could have always been there but the software just did not have it implemented. If you take a good picture of inside the ECU I can compare it to my CP. Of which I do have some good pictures.

It was running OK, I managed to remap it myself with pretty good results and safe fuelling / timing levels but the belt was heading towards self destruction, SO. Back in the garage for stage 2 now, or should I say stage 22 over the winter. Anyway, I killed the charger belt because the bracket is schiiite! So a new remanufactured bracket is going on with a new belt and tensioner bearing. A new charge cooler system is also going on with a short runner and slim line fans. And I'm gonna fix an annoying little oil leak. Doesn't sound allot but I bet its the new year before its up and running again. As for the stickers, they are still exactly where you left them, feel free to collect them and have a gander at my progress when your back in the UK. :wave:

Really, I've never been asked, mind you I've never claimed! Is it safe to assume they are only likely to check for any claim involving a theft. Also this seems very impractical and a bit of a logistical nightmare! :eek: Also, I never have problem with my Clifford when removing the battery, I just disarm and remove the battery within a minute or 2. (This is probably valet mode). Expect random things when you reconnect it though, nothing a few presses of the fob won't cure.

Immerse them overnight in fresh oil, the same way they sit in the engine as this allows them to draw oil in. I actually left my new ones for a few days and I got next to no tapping when it was fired up.

Nice! :lol: He/She definitely deserved his/her tyres letting down for that little stunt. You cars looking well by the way BigBen.

It's not the same issue that you get with the abs controller on a standard car is it, try reducing the latency to 5ms in advanced com port settings. Do a search there is a thread about it.

Thanks Kev - it's like a curly version of Joni's Rotrex impellor! Jonis Rotrex.jpg[/attachment:1bb6uvb7] Do you have a shot of the turbine side? Just for everyone else's info Rotrex use Holset Compressor wheels and housings, direct from a commoner garden turbo. The compressor wheel has the part number etched on the back just in case you need a new one, but the housing part number has been ground off. On another note I've begun a guide to VR6 remapping at home, I've put a draft copy on the OddUnit How to's but still requires a fair bit of work. I will put it on here when it's complete!

Yes me, try 3 months out of a VR6 and replace it with an embarrassment to the road powered by a poxie 1.6 engine. :( :( :(

Audi V8 twin turbo would be nice. Or are we talking engines that would actually fit under the bonnet?

Where on earth did you get that? Can you put my name down please!

Hope they are better than the storm ones as I've had quite a few issues with mine up to press, here's a little warning of what to expect: 1)Holes to screw to the head not quite correct, had to slot one slightly. 2)Slot for tensioner (pulley extender) in the wrong place, I had to open it up. 3)My 85mm charger pulley is on the very upper size limits and to my disgust can actually self destruct :shock: with the belt rubbing against the belt around the charger when it stretches slightly. Luckily with my vigilance I caught this and just managed to tweak everything with the play in the holes and re-tensioning the belt to be clear by a few mm. 4)Tensioner mounting plate not welded on straight therefore the tensioner pulley does not run true and now the pulley bearings sound shagged, I've bodged it with some shim. But all in all for the price of this bracket (which is fair enough due to development) they could at least NOT be making these errors in manufacture, made on the cheap if you ask me. :epicfail: I'm now very tempted to get mine drawn up with a few charger positioning tweaks and made correctly. Working in a drawing office, this should only take a little persuasion one lunch time or two as one of the guys used to work for Holset/Cummins so appreciates my efforts. Also useful as he knows all the equations to calculate the best turbo charger for the job, which is sounding more tempting by the week a lately.

What do you want to know mate? Is this going on a 24V? Just looking at you sig.

Glad to see you can finally rev the beast up, you managed to get the pedal fitted and to go for a test run yet? On an unrelated topic, don't suppose you still have your old charger belt knocking about, if so would you mind measuring it up, mine has decided to chew its self up a bit when it has stretched and rubbed against its self on the charger pulley. Think this means I need a smaller pulley to prevent this happening again. :nuts:

I certainly did, just got back from ED38 too, saw a few familiar faces at Harewood but not at ED38.

To replace the gearbox, its no more than an extra hour to do the chains so definitely worthwhile. VW quoted 10-12 hours (none of the mechanics there had done it before though) so would be in excess of 1K. I recon a specialist could do it in 8 though and that's being generous. So it all depends on what the hourly rate is. I did it on the drive in 4 or 5 evenings taking it steady, unless you've never used a spanner or have no tools its easily do able by yourself, plus a friend for gearbox handling. Have a quick read through the guide on the wiki.

That front end is butt ugly, back end is not bad though so I'd probably buy it after a few pints. So basically, pointless in my eyes. :epicfail:

Wedge the brake pedal down, this stops the fluid being able to drain through. Worked fine when I changed my callipers, next to nothing drained through.