VR6Joni

Annulus - Rollers 2.2:1, Rollers - Spindle 4.3:1, so charger ratio is 9.5:1 as is the C30 series. I'm not sure what crank pulley size is(anyone know off the top of their head?), but my charger pulley is 85mm so would guesstimate about 2:1, therefore if you really wind it on you are looking at 120k+. There are not any bearings on the spindle it simply sits between the rollers and goes through a shaft seal where the compressor is attached. There are bearings (ball) top and bottom of each roller as seen from the pic below, the pulley shaft goes a sealed bearing (NSK 6003DU) then through a shaft seal, then through another bearing and then through the oil pump then to the annulus drive coupling. As for the price of the bearings I have seen a rebuild kit for $250, not quite sure how that price came about. I got them from city seals and bearings as they are just down the road from where I work, hoping they have suitable seals too although the original ones seem fine. Retaining plate removed. My crude method of removing said plate, I used 2 speed cramps, 3 would have been much better and quicker :shrug: They were on the car when I bought it, they are by BSA (I had never heard of them before I bought the car), I did want to change them (git to clean) but have grown on me.

I got round to taking a few pics of the rotrex internals today, this is the SP series so its worth bearing in mind the new C series is different if the exploded view on their website is anything to go by. Also here's how I took it to bits: 1)Take the pulley off, I used a clamp with a couple of lengths of rubber matting around so as not to damage it, an old aux belt will probably also do the trick, its a standard thread but will be very tight. 2)Remove the 2 bolts that hold the compressor housing on, and remove. The plate with the compressor can be lifted out of the main housing. If its stuck you can knock it off by giving the pulley shaft a quick knock (I used a suitable size socket and rubber mallet). The plate will lift out with all the rollers attached. 3)The compressor can then be removed by using the flats on the other end of the spindle, the nut that holds the compressor on is reverse thread. 4)Now the tricky bit, removing the annullus, this is stretched over the 3 rollers so is tight, I simply prised it off using a bit of heat to make it expand and therefore that bit easier. I used electrical screw drivers (plastic coated) and wood between the 3 rollers and lifted all at the same time so as not to damage it 5)To be continued, from here on I believe everything just pulls apart after the 3 retaining screws are removed from the inner rollers but it is tight, here's a few pics: Compressor and its housing Pulley and annullus coupling in main body The annullus, all frictional faces are steel on steel, I think the grooves are for oil pressure relief Inner rollers View of inner rollers and spindle from above

Hi all, I'm quite new to the forum, mainly being reading and making a shopping list to join the forced induction club, and I can't wait. Anyway, I have a Rotrex SP30-94 from a beemer kit, its currently in bits awaiting new bearings. For Robs info the critical bearings are the 6 on the 3 middle rollers, they are NSK 6002 C4 bearings (6002 is a standard size and C4 is the tolerance which is quite high). I'm currently waiting for a quote for these! I'll put some pictures on the thread if anyone is interested in what's actually inside a rotrex as I was impressed. Can anyone confirm what the primer is for the SP chargers as I don't have one, I'm sure I read it was a non return valve??? My VR has had an LPG conversion in a previous life so this is going to be some task, however the gas system can be modified to run with the charger, with a remap(to gas piggy back ecu), a MAP sensor and possibly new injectors. But I'm gonna concentrate on getting the petrol side running correctly first. Depending on gas ECU I may possibly try running both fuels simultaneously as gas could have charge cooling properties so could be interesting. Currently I have or will be ordering: Charger, bracket and pulleys etc. Air hoses etc. Recirculation Valve. LC-1. Pressure sender (for boost). Custom screen for multiple process readings. 9:1 spacer and sharan gasket. ARP head and rod bolts. Does any one think I will need anything else for initial setup other than fueling as discussed below? I'm undecided on what to do with the petrol fueling, at the moment its either tweaking fuel regulation which I don't think will be possible as I recon I'll be looking at between 10-12psi (just waiting for Andy from Storm on that one). However I've read crazydave has done good work with just uprated injectors. As I'm and electronic design engineer I'm more than willing to do some electrical frigging to get the standard system running. Also, would I need to do anything regarding fuel pressure regulation if I ran larger injectors with 10-12psi boost. Sorry if this is a bit technical, but as I have an EEPROM burner/reader. 1) is it possible to burn my own MAP's? 2) and if so does anyone know how to decipher it? Just fueling to start with. Thanks in advance for any feedback guys. Jonathan

Ok, just finished reading the vr6 forced induction thread and think I know the general direction I'm going in. Thanks for the offer Rob, but to do the rest of the build as I want to I don't think I can stretch to a new rotrex at the moment. However I got a second hand rotrex in the pipe line which I'm gonna rebuild. I'll let you know how that went Rob. You still got your siezed charger or did you exchange it?

Ok, crisis over because I already had braided hoses, but without the ring on to accept a banjo bolt, I've just ended up making straight through adaptors (fortunately had the right tap and die at work puls a lathe and mill). Note to others who try this conversion; you will require late golf mk3 flexihoses. As far as I am aware, nothing exists to adapt the corrado flexi hoses (or at least my goodridge ones).

Thanks ADZ_VR6, its is looking like I'm gonna have to get the mkIV hoses, thing is I already have the standard goodridge hose kit, on the wiki guide at the bottom it mentions some adaptor bolts for about 3quid. I thought these would be common place but the local motorspares recons not, and I've also had no luck online.

I'm desperate now, the brake line is off and the bleed valve on my old caliper has snapped. Not a good situation and I can't find them on google for love nor money. Why did I have to check the thread?????

Can someone please help me find a supplier for the brake hose adaptors for a 312mm conversion, I.e 1mm pitch hose to 1.5mm pitch on calipers, barnsley/sheffield area if pos, otherwise online. Think I must be searching for the wrong thing!

Cheers herisites There's some useful info there, as I thought, I couldn't really see how there would be a great benefit with a schrick, with forced induction. Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the schrick manifold has variable intake runner length or has a tuned chamber? I was leaning towards to rotrex, everyone who's tried them seems to be impressed! So unless anyone can point out a definitive advantage to a vortech I think that's the way I'll be going.

Hi all, This is my first post and I'm gonna jump straight to he point. My trials bike is going and the earnings are going to the rado tuning pot, this should give me enough money to go down the supercharger route. What I want to know is, what would it be worth doing at the same time or near future when funds allow? CAM's, 6 branch exhaust, aqua mist, Head spacer & higher boost, Schrick etc? From reading how the Schrick variable geometry manifold works I can't really see it making much difference on a forced induction setup, would anyone care to disagree or agree with this thought? Cheers Jonathan