scottgroovez

Very Helpful and in-depth reply 8) John also mentioned that his newly designed pullies wouldn't have guide edges as these were left over from the design of the protype version. (he may have been talking about something else, but I think that's what he was on about :oops:)

I'm thinking about getting a toothed belt conversion in the near future, but which one? G-Werks/PSD JMRacing G-Tuned After speaking to JMRacing at Stonor Park, John said that the pullies in his system are being modified to allow easier fitment in that the current system requires the pulley damper which the PAS pulley bolts to, to be machined down slightly. Do the G-Tuned and G-Werks/PSD systems need this damper machining down? What are the durability of the pullies like? What finishes do the pullies come in? I quite like the sound of G-Werks/PSD black anodised finish! Going from a past thread, Darren (G-Werks) mentioned the use of a solid static tensioner in replacement of the OE spring version. Do the kits come with this tensioner? Has anyone has any experience with using any of the systems? Cheers, Scott

Does the serpentine belt tensioner need to be modified seeing as one of the benefits of the toothed belt system is reduced belt tension?

Did he used to have a Golf Mk1 in Gunmetal Grey?

I have replaced bearings before using a vice and well fitting sockets, but now I have access to a press I prefer to use that.

What would the causes for a collapsed bearing in a PAS pump? Overtight belt? Wrong / low fluid? Airlock in system? The reason I ask is that I replaced the fluid in my PAS system for the G 002 0000 (VAG stuff) and after a few miles the pump started knocking. Checked the level and it had dropped below "MIN", topped it up and after a few seconds of running the fluid was pouring out of the hole in the resevoir cap. Turned it off and fluid was leaking from the pump. Removed the pump and the bearing has collapsed. So I want to know what would cause this as so to prevent it happening again! Also, can the bearing be replaced or is it new pump time? Cheers, Scott

Just finished replacing the bolt. I used an airgun which made removing the old one a piece of pi$$. Bolt was 88p, washer over £2 Those VAG prices are :shock:, but hey, it's worth it if it illiminates a potential weak point.

Henny, Does the cambelt need removing? Looking at the ETKA diagram the crankshaft pulley fits onto the end of the crankshaft, so removing the bolt won't cause the pulley to not be supported?

I'm going to replace the crankshaft bolt with the DX version this weekend. What torque do you do it up to? According to the Bentley manual it's 80Nm + 1/2 turn, but that's for the original stretch bolt which I guess the additional 1/2 turn is for.

I'd like a clay bar after reading good things about them

I've seen Schrick 268/276 cams on Ebay for about £160

What are you guys fitting to the underside of the throttle body where the boost return originally fitted? I was thinking a small filter, just to prevent any crap from getting up into the TB

1 bar = about 14psi

Bo'Selecta :lol:

I enquired about those Stroeve mirrors about a year ago. They're about £300

You can probably get the Bentley book cheaper from the states, remember books are VAT free so that won't be an added cost when it comes through custom checks. I bought one from the marketplace off Amazon, was about £80 new

Don't AmD now only work on newer cars (ie MK4's etc)? Anyway, I went there to get my geometry setup last year as they have the "sooper-dooper" alignment "machine" and the guy said there was no point doing it as the ball joints were shagged and needed replacing (that's what I get for running 9x16's). So they gave me good honest advice.

I enquired about some new pullies the other day and they gave me a print out of the diagram. The bolt is the same regardless of A/C or not, but is specific for the PG engine, not the same as PL, KR engines (on the same diagram)

Any tips on replacing this bolt, like how do you prevent the crank from turning?

I got one from my local dealer. He said they sell hundreds of them a month.

Can anyone remember from memory if the PG block has locators for the head?

Yeah that's GPC, I think it depends who you deal with. One guy there is a right unhelpful "So and So", but another guy will get you anything. I bought a full set of valve springs and head gasket set from them.

Try GPC, I got my Genuine HG set about 40% less than the stealer

I've seen this crop on a couple of occasions, should this bolt be replaced after xxxx miles/x years?

I'd be interested in the Ultra-lites, plus will you be able to get Oil Pressure and Water Temperature one's?