rob1234

The switch is part of the boot latch mechanism.

Wet & dry, Halfords plastic primer aerosol, Halfords satin black aerosol, then the red over the top is how I'd do it...

I think its the second one down on the list on the website, DIN 81060 Cost me £90 which i didnt think was bad Sorry if I've missed something, but whereabouts did you get it?

Just been watching the old Top Gear Corrado review ( ). At about 1.55, he says the limiter cuts in harshly at 6200rpm - but his tacho redline starts at 7k. Is this usual?! PS I have a VR6 - is there any gain to having a higher rev-limit?

I have recently gave my brakes a good clean, and installed new font discs and Mintrex 1144 pads (fluid is still quite fresh). Just wanted to reassure people that (away from the track), this is a fantastic setup with good initial bite, progressive modulation, and excellent fade resistance. I find they squeak a tiny, tiny amount when stone cold, but I don't mind. 288/321s aren't always necessary! (Well at least for fast road use). Hope this helps.

I used subframes from an old Polo I got from the scrappy for free. I painted them up satin black, then had some tabs welded on for the 4 side-mount holes on my Corbeau seat, and transferred the seatbelt clip. Looks good I think, but a touch too high for my liking (I'm 6ft, and head is about an inch from the headlining = no helmet use). Not ideal, but cheap and keeps the slide adjustment.

Was amazed at how heavy my (fabric) front seat was when I replaced it with a Corbeau one. Got to be minimum of 10kg saved I reckon.

Seriously thinking of getting the Rally Designs Wilwood kit for my VR6. Are the Corrado's front brakes the same as Mk2 Golfs then? And do you know what lug mount spacing is (76 or 94mm)? Cheers, Rob

I am running stock suspension, and was recommended -1.5deg per side at the front. Feels ok to me!

Thanks - I shall overcome my OCD and ignore it... Found the problem with the power loss - a clip holding the throttle cable was absent, meaning a fully depressed accelerator pedal resulted in about 25% throttle opening! Glad a simple fix has brought the car back to life - it feels healthier than it's ever been...

Right: Temperatures are now perfect - old thermostat must have been stuck open as I expected. That wire is apparently no-connection at either end, so will ignore it (although it annoys me just hanging here...) However... I have abviously knocked something somewhere, as the car is reluctant to rev and has no power. For example flat out in 5th maxs out at about 85mph. Will get it on a diagnostic this afternoon and fingers crossed it's something obvious. Would a bust CPS/knock sensor wire take that much power off?!

Hi all - sorry for my first post being a question! Been lurking for a year or so if that makes any difference... Went to replace my thermostat today, and check for cracks in the housing. All went smoothly, bar two things. 1) The gasket between the block and the housing is screwed up and beyond redemption. Is there anywhere I can get one before Monday?! 2) What is this lead from? Spotted it and didn't pull it out (well, not on purpose): (click for large pics) Many thanks in advance! PS Will report back whether new thermostat makes water temp at cruise circa 90degC, instead of 65...