Dox

I'm with peter best on a classic policy

You can rewire it to a switch on the dash until you can investigate further. A fused wire direct from the battery + to the horn, a wire from the - of the horn to a labelled switch on the dash, and the other side of the switch to a good earth point behind the dash. I had a volvo 740 that had the horn disconnected because the column had partly collapsed (like its supposed to do in a head on crash), there was a measurement in the haynes manual for the correct length but I only found this after replacing the column with a second hand one.

If the wire was earthing after the horn the horn would sound, IMO you're looking for a short between the fuse box and horn for it to blow - to check this out connect a fused wire direct from the battery pos terminal to the horn pos terminal and press the horn button on the wheel. HTH Sorry. I didn't read this properly, ignore my post

For around a tenner why not just change the flexi?

Has the hose collapsed internally holding the brake on? I have a pair of 280mm carriers

Strip and clean the brakes, make sure the caliper slides aren't seized or the pads seized in the carriers.

I've had similar probs with an audi cab that been sorn for a few years - the pedal went to the floor, new master and bled by the garage made no improvement, I bled them several times using the 2 man method, I then bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Bleeding-System-Kit-VS820-/140531959466?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item20b85b86aa A cracking bit of kit, I was also advised to wedge the pedal down over night - this pressurises any air bubbles in the system and they split into smaller bubbles and are easier to get out. I bled all 4 corners ( make sure the rear brake compensation valve on the rear axle is fully open if fitted), then opened various pipe connections to see if any air is trapped. I used the car yesterday and the pedal is improving all the time

We've got a 2001 Golf GT TDi pd 115 (remapped to 140ish) at 80 MPH its doing 2200RPM - impractical for a N/A petrol engine I would say

Smooth front bumper DBP VR6? driving towards Nantwich at around 2.30PM today

Toledo V5 170 BHP 20V have vented rears and 312mm fronts.

I've got the sealey 24V and its yet to undo a tight wheel bolt, very handy to have once you've cracked the bolt initially and great on nylocks, damper shafts and balljoint tapers that spin. If someone copied and pasted the guns above in black and white they'd look exactly the same............................. They aren't snap on, neither are they snap on money.

What floppyman said, these bolts are made of cheese (

Paid and PMd address details for the aux pump

I'll take it please, would you PM paypal details, ta

VR6 Auxillary water pump - P/N - 251 965 561 B - have an invoice for this, again nearly £200 fitted in 2004! Doesn't leak, and works properly - £30 First dibs on this please, does the price include postage?

I'm breaking a MK4 Golf V5 10V, the climate is complete less the rads, fans and slam panel

Plastic clips are less likely to break if they are inclipped in warm weather or heated gently with a hairdryer, paint stripper type heat gun - easy does it though or a kettle of boiling water. Cold plastic is brittle. HTH someone )

The envelope had a large V ripped out of the middle of it, almost ripped in two pieces, the stickers were in one corner and survived. I rate RM highly, even more so for delivering the letter with an apology and an offer of compensation rather than just putting it in the bin. )

Mine arrived yesterday :) Lucky to survive by all accounts as the envelope was all but destroyed by the Royal Mail sorting equipment and delivered in a royal mail apology for damaging you letter bag. Ta muchly :D

Swompy - GB forum stickers :) Emu - door handle :) Both easy to deal with and would buy off them again :D

I've not had pm :( Paid and address sent via PM I hope :confused4:

I've not had pm :(

Sorry, now taken

Does anyone else want them before they go in the bin?