Topaz2008

What car is that new seat from? Looks good in the car :D

Performancedirect were good for me. Details in post below http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=80886

I think you need to look at #1, #2, I am not that familiar with the 16v engine, mines a G60

spark distribution = distributor Have a look at the link below :D http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3407988&page=5

Just changed the transmission fluid to Redline MT90. The old oil was filthy and smelt of cats p1ss!! What a difference :D :D the gearbox is nice and quiet now and changes gear just as it should. Thanks for the top tip :clap: :clap:

Well good luck with it, mine had a windage tray when it was rebuilt but i still have the standard sump. Keep us all posted on what you find :D :D

Just thought of something. What filter did you use? Very important to use the OEM one (something to do with the charger feed) I have seen posts that mention the oil filter causing the alarm to go off. No experience of that myself but I thought it was worth mentioning. Really though I think its sump off time :eek:

Yes as the oil heats up it thins and causes the pressure to drop. This is why we fit oil coolers to our cars if it gets to 120 ish degrees the oil is pretty much useless. My gauge, which measures the pressure at the super charger oil feed take off on the head, reads just over 1 bar at idle and quickly indicates 3 bar+ (this is approx 1 bar higher when the oil is cold) if I rev the car. less than 1.4 bar is the cut off for the alarm at 2000+ RPM. Did you fill the car with the correct oil the Corrado G60 uses 10W 40 Semi Synthetic?

No the one sensor monitors above 2000 RPM. I assume the system has worked ok in the past?? When I first got my car the 2k sensor lead was swaped with the oil temperature lead. Both sensors are together on the oil filter housing. As the oil temperature sensor changes resistance with temperature the oil alarm did not bleep until the engine had warmed up. Failing that it looks like its sump off time :( :(

Heres one in the process of strip down. As you say timing (keyways) at 12 oclock :D DSC02436.JPG[/attachment:2d852gba]

Evening Bump :D

Thanks I will give that a try. I only want to do it once as I am sure its a messy job.

I have an ISV part number 037 906 457D fitted to my G60 which is sticking open. According to ETKA this is the correct part. I also have an ISV part number 035 133 455 F in working order. Its slightly smaller but will fit. Can I use this as a replacement?

bump :D

There are two warning systems for Low pressure (2 switches). The Buzzer (in the cluster) is part of the dynamic oil pressure system so that during driving, if the oil pressure on the low pressure switch is sensed, the buzzer will sound. Usually, until the key is turned off and back on. Heres how the system works:- 1.4 Bar switch on Oil Filter Housing is normally Closed or grounded (Opens under pressure 1.4 Bar+). .3 Bar switch on Head (8V) is Normally Open (Closes under Pressure .3 Bar+). If the 1.8 Bar fails above 2000 RPM the buzzer will sound and Light should blink If the .3 bar is grounded at any time, only the light will come on and should blink Make sure you have the right switch in the right place. There should be a stamp on it showing the pressure. You can usually tell by the color of the switch, but that is not always true. The 1.4 bar should be dark brown or black and the .3 bar (on the head) should be light tan or blue (colors have very slightly different pressures from older 8v's and or 16v). Do not ignore this oil warning as there could be a problem with your oil system. My engine sounded its alarm periodically and assumed it was just the switches playing up. Then one day at high speed the alarm sounded shortly followed by knocking :epicfail: and an engine rebuild!! When the sump was removed the oil strainer was blocked with pieces of gasket sealant, this was traced to excessive sealant used on the sump gasket by the previous owners garage :censored: I have now fitted an oil pressure gauge as this is a better indication of oil pressure than a buzzer. It is also important to have the correct grade of oil as oil that is too thin will set the alarm off prematurely.

I am experiencing gear change problems :( The car changes gear fine during normal driving but during fast driving or block changing, from second to fourth gear the gears crunch. Occasionally the car is a bit stiff :shock: when selecting first gear at the traffic lights. If I lift and press down the clutch pedal it selects fine. I have already had a new clutch, slave and master cylinders, fluid change and new flexible hose. I was considering changing the gearbox oil before pulling the thing out for a rebuild. The car has covered 115,000 miles Any ideas?

All fixed now, it was one of the pads not correctly seated

I have heard that there is a gear inside the speedo unit that cracks and causes everything to stop working. I saw this on another forum (Vortex i thinK). There was a guide on replacing it with a brass type.

My issue is there is a 3 step method on this forum from Chris Knott insurance to under cut your current price. T & C's seam resonable as well. The reality does not match the pledge though!! If its wrong it should be changed...

I phoned Chris Knott yesterday for them to beat my best quote by 10% as it states in their 3 step pledge on this Forum. They declined and said they could not beat my renewal!! :censored: So I thought I would share the details of my insurance company with the Forum :D Performance Direct - http://www.performancedirect.co.uk 0844 482 8101

Excellent :D :D :D

Simple problem, my G60 has a squeak from its L/H front wheel. The car has had a new hub/bearing Any ideas?????

Mine came today and I have Just fitted it. Very easy and a perfect solution :clap: :clap: :clap:

My G60 has decided it would be nice for the trip meter to stop working!! :mad2: MFA all works fine Speedo is fine Overall mileage clock is fine Any ideas anyone?

If you are still selling these put me down for one :D :D