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My 2.0l valver does the same, it doesnt come on till about 106 but ive got two different readings, the MFA reads 106 but the dial reads about 90ish...

Ok so something is out somewhere because the MFA is reading about 15-20 degrees above the reading on the dial? i have no idea what i can do to sort this out so any advice would be helpful! :) Also the fan doesnt come on till the MFA reads about 106 and the dial about 90ish, which one would be right and should it come on then or earlier Thanks, J

Yeah, the pipes seems to fit 'nicely' this way without them being strained so i guess they're probably right. I know the cables seem fairly obvious, being in the same location etc but i'd rather be certain of where they go and not cause any problems! :) Thanks, J

Ok got a few questions, i should have taken 'pre-take apart' photos but stupidly didnt now ive got a few things that are hanging around: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf003.jpg[/attachment:24ib1333] I have forgotten the order for the injectors and cannot find it anywhere, i think ive got it right (based on length of pipe) but obviously need them to be in the right order if anyone can help passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf004.jpg[/attachment:24ib1333] What is this and where does it go? If it attachs on the brown cable in the picture below where do i fix it? It doesn't fit on the bolt of the rocker cover nearest the cable... 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf005.jpg[/attachment:24ib1333] Does the brown cable (red arrow) go on the above (sensor im assuming)? If not where does it go? 009.jpg[/attachment:24ib1333] Does the green cable (red arrow) go on the sensor (green arrow) Also where is the ambient (outside) temperature sensor? Ive tried looking in my Bentley manual but it doesnt show anything. Also it doesnt even come up on my display as it being an option...its a 92 2.0l valver Thanks! J

I never thought of that! sounds like a good idea :)

i would but ive already got another 9A head, although the bolts on the rocker cover are different to mine '92 (old) and '95 (new), possibly they changed them... After further inspection and a bit of soft cleaning i was able to tidy the bump up, you can hardly feel it now and its not really noticeable at all. What do you think: (unfortunately the second one didnt quite focus on the bit i wanted it to) passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf091031_150125.jpg[/attachment:2cxcga6e] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf091031_150323.jpg[/attachment:2cxcga6e] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf091031_150049.jpg[/attachment:2cxcga6e] 091031_150214.jpg[/attachment:2cxcga6e] I placed a large flat metal screwdriver across the top and theres no visible gaps, i tested the whole of the block and it seems fine, obviously it'd only be microns and not visible so hopefully the gasket will resolve any gaps. 1/2mm seemed to be a bit of an exaggeration methinks, my bad, im happy with the way this looks and hopefully you'll agree lol :)

Yeah ill get it done on Monday but what about the block? Do you think it will be fine with the slight bump? I'm talking like half a mm ill try and upload a picture today

Yeah, well the donor head looks good anyway but for the sake of £22 i might get it done, the head with the hole would need welding and reconditionin so way too expensive. What about the slight carbon build up on the block (well i assume its carbon, where it had burnt through the HG and left a blackish hard lump on the blick between the cylinders)? We've tidyed it up but theres still a slight bump when you run your finger over it...

I have found a place near me (milton keynes) that can skim the head for around £22 but the donor head looks fine, its the cylinder block im more worried about, i dont want the hassle of taking it out and then putting it back in again.....

Well this is the state the bad man who previously owned my corrado left the car in when he sold it to me, i knew it had a problem anyway and i was buying it to rebuild but i had never thought the hole would be THIS bad. He claimed that he had paid A LOT of money to get the engine rebuilt or something to that effect however methinks somebody cheated him and he had been driving around with a dodgy head. The guy who did the work most likely just changed the headgasket without sorting the head out, he probably also used the same bolts... climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf091030_164019.jpg[/attachment:2z6dulkk] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf091030_164133.jpg[/attachment:2z6dulkk] This hole is between cylinders 3 and 4 which weren't firing at all. Ive got another head from another 9A engine which came from a donor which was included in the sale. Its in a good condition as you can see from the pics. My only concern is that i dont want to remove the block and get it skimmed, i've tidyed it up and removed as much of the carbon as i can and it feels pretty smooth (where it burnt through the head and the gasket). Do you think it will be ok for me just to fit the new gaskets (and bolts) along with the donor head without having too much of a problem. I dont know of anywhere near me who can check and skim the head for me nor would i know how much it would cost....all suggestions welcome 091027_165213.jpg[/attachment:2z6dulkk] The replacement head from the donor. As you can see it looks like its in good condition.

Ok so im trying to tidy up my engine as i rebuild it, trying to make it look nice. Ive gone over the inlet manifold with a wire brush and removed all the crap, its fairly nice and shiny and im not sure if i should leave it like this or paint it. If i leave it would it need to be treated? Can this also be done with the rocker cover?

Well thats a bit strange >.

Ok guys im currently doing my 1st rebuild on my rado. I need to replace the head as its firing through 2 cylinders, ive got a replacement head from another 'rado both are 2l 9a engines however without a handbook i don't know the correct torque settings for the bolts (or the order of fitting etc). Can anyone let me know what they are and anything else i might need to know, im doing it with my dad and he is very experienced at rebuilding engines. Thanks Jason

Just flatten it out and reinforce it with fibre-glass or something similar on the reverse side, you can then scrub the visible side with some soapy water and a nail brush and hose it clean with fresh water, worked a bloody treat on mine :clap: ......just don't try it on your sun-roof trim - nightmare, cloth came adrift!!! :( :camp: If I had to do it again I'd glue-gun around all the edges and then just bleach it/rinse it flat, allow to dry and then apply thinned PVA glue to set it so it CAN NOT sag ever! 8) Replacement trim sorted me.....eventually. :cheers: I'm liking that idea, ill spray glue the one thats in at the moment while i get the other one sorted. What do you mean by glue gunning around the edges? How does that help? Thanks for the ideas

Critical mass i wasnt going to use superglue, i was going to use spray glue. I might still use that for a while until i can locate a decent one. Ill see how my other one fairs up, it might not be too bad even if it has a fold in the card backing

Hey guys I'm having a problem with the roof lining, its started to peel?/come away from the cardboard backing and i don't know what i should do to fix it...any ideas? Or does someone maybe have a decent enough replacement, i have got another but it is grubby and when i was removing it the wind caught it and it bent slightly so i don't know what it would look like. I'd rather try and fix the one ive got because im guessing it would be easier than trying to replace it, would something like spray mount (spray glue) do the job? Thanks

I had a similar problem with my alarm not unlocking the doors and having to do it manually. I traced the problem back to the doors requiring a double pulse to unlock. Some of the more expensive alarms have this feature, unfortunately as i only purchased a cheapish one it didnt have a double pulse option. You 'can' find double pulse relays that fit to cobra alarms but its a hassle trying to actually locate one, ive temporarily rectified the problem using the pulses from a flasher relay which is connected to the single pulse from the alarm unlock cable. When it sends the unlock pulse the flash relay well, flashes giving a double pulse and opens the doors. As for the immobiliser without removing it there isnt really any way to bypass the key problem im afraid. Hopefully this helps, I know its a little bit late in replying and you might have already solved your problem but oh well :)

Ok, so I've identified the problem and thought i'd post it here incase anyone else has a similar issue. Basically the central locking unlock requires a double pulse from the alarm system, as the car seems to ignore the first pulse but accept the second. This was idenified due to the fact that i can unlock the drivers door manually with the key in the door without unlocking the entired car through the central locking, this equates as the first pulse as turning the key pushes the button in the handle completing the circuit. If i turn the key a second time it completes the circuit again and fully unlocks all the doors on the car, this equates as the second pulse. My issue now is to use the unlock pulse from the alarm to trigger a double pulse system and ive figured that the easiest way to achieve this without ripping out the alarm and buying one that may or may not have such a feature is to use a flasher relay. The unlock pulse is very short (0.8 seconds) so should only trigger the flasher to work a couple of times but still enough to create a second pulse, ideally i would like the flasher speed to be very quick so as not to have to wait for the door to unlock. If anyone has any other ideas they would be very much appreciated but for now this is all i can think off.

bump! surely someone must know something, or has experienced the same problem...

Ok so i bought a new alarm (yes its quite a cheapish one but ive not got a lot of money at the moment and its only to tide me over till i can get a job and buy a better one) its a HAWK 280 pro. Anyway ive fitted it myself as im quite used to the corrado wiring having refitted most of the looms due to changing from early to late interior and having to fix the total closure which stopped working. The problem i am having is that the alarm will not unlock the doors. It locks them but won't open. Now ive checked the wiring from the alarm and it is definately correct, by testing the lock/unlock cables coming from the alarm on the door lock cable (as i know that is working correctly) and pulses coming from the alarm (when i push unlock/lock) will lock the door (note it locks when i press unlock because i have tested the unlock cable on the lock wire of the door) so i know theres nothing wrong with the alarm. I've tried tracing the unlock cable from the alarm to various points on the wiring (red/black cable from door) but its still not working, ive also tried the passengers door but still nothing. The doors unlock/lock from the key in the door (both passenger and drivers doors) so i know theres nothing wrong with the pump or main wiring It just doesnt make sense....corrado wiring is fine...alarm wiring is fine...but why wont it unlock!!! Ive tried phoning HAWK but they weren't very helpful....so does anyone have any ideas, mainly should i attach the unlock cable from the alarm to a different point on the red/black cable (drivers door, passengers door, handle switches, directly from the pump...) Currently any advice will be helpful :)

Yeah i know thats the socket but what does it do and do i need it? They're both off of valvers if that helps...

Rather than trying to trace the looms back and unplug them would it also work if i soldered on the old plugs (im doing a similar conversion)

Ok i wanted to change the gauge surrounds on my '92 to those from a '95 as i prefer the style and the dials themselves, i was just going to change the whole cluster but found that on the back of the '92 there is another socket which isn't present on the '95? What is this for? Neither cars use a speedo cable... 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf090702_211153.jpg[/attachment:30qbvzqn] Back of '92 cluster 090702_211247.jpg[/attachment:30qbvzqn] Back of '95 cluster Currently ive just changed the backs of the dials over but as im replacing the engine it would be nice if the mileage showed the lower reading :wink:

Without trying to hi-jack this thread what will i be able to read using Vagcom on my '92 16v and would i need to buy this adaptor for the vagcom cable? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X2-to-16-Pin-Adapter-Cable-VAG-COM-OBD2-OBD-2-VW-AUDI_W0QQitemZ220442066104QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item33535efcb8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1689|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

Try HERE matey Already tried that its not on there as its too old, i found a wiring diagram which seemed to fit the bill by searching through hundreds of forums @shaung60 im taking the '92 back at the weekend so will double check then i cant remember what colour it is, tbh i thought at first it was blue but it was covered in so much dirt that i couldnt really tell! Its a car ive always wanted, ever since i had a paper round when i was 11 and i walked up a drive with a (horrible) brown VR6 and ive been hooked ever since! its only taken me about 11years to get one but will definately be worth the wait :) I will probably take the ECU from the '95, its newer and will register the lower mileage from the better engine. Ill let you know how the rebuild goes and if i remember will take pics etc