aclwalker

Possibly. I think its main job is to pop the lid up a touch when you press the button, but it might also keep the boot from sitting too low, although really the rubber bump stops in the corner should do that.

Due to the popularity of my "boot rattle" thread (http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=74319), I thought I'd write about another great noise problem with Corrados. This won't be news to old hands but I'm sure some people will find it interesting. The main cause of heat shield rattling is simple. The clips that hold them on have corroded and fallen off, allowing the heat shield(s) to flap around in the wind and when going over bumps, causing quite a loud and annoying noise. Some people say "Just rip the heat shields off.", but I think that's terrible advice. They are there for a reason and if excessive heat gets to the bodywork then it accelerates corrosion for a start, heat speeding up reactions and all that. It could quite possibly also damage rubber components. I also know for a fact that some of the brake lines go under heat shields and if these shields were missing then you could be spot heating brake fluid at those points, which is probably not good. Luckily the solution is actually really simple and virtually free, assuming your heat shields haven't been binned by a previous owner. I was lucky to have all of mine intact (I think). When I got the car they fair rattled about, but this was one of the first fixes I did about 6 years ago and it's still perfect now. You need to go to the dealer and buy these clips: Heat shield clip.JPG[/attachment:2k1ld32q] Sorry, I haven't got the part number to hand. They are really cheap. I think they were around 20p each when I got them, so I bought 10 or so. Simply go under the car (using axle stands of course, NOT just a jack) and locate each heat shield and look for missing or damaged clips. Simply push the new clips on with a socket and if necessary, push the central fingers on tight with a thin screwdriver. Problem solved. You may be unlucky and have a hole in a heat shield that is bigger than the clip, meaning it won't hold. In this case you can snip out a piece of metal sheeting (I used scrap tin-style flashing from a garage roof I think), which will cover the hole and then put the clip over that. Your heat shields will stay solid and not rattle again for years.

Send me the plastic bit then, as you clearly don't need it if you don't have the plunger bit! :lol: I had a look around ETKA and there seems to be no other VWs of that era that used this kind of pop-up system. And since the parts are now obsoleted (not sure about the plunger itself, but I'm guessing so, if the plate and rubber bit are obsoleted) then the only options is Corrados being broken. By the way, if you don't have the plunger bit then it must be something else making the noise in the boot. With me, it's the fact that the plunger has no rubber end cap and also no plastic bit it sits on, so the plastic of the plunger is rubbing off the plastic of the main bit of the body, which is a horrendous noise. You might get decent results by adjusting the rubber stoppers on both corners of the tailgate so as to push the boot out a bit. Hopefully they're not missing from your car too!

Ah, that's just what I'm looking for. Maybe a visit would be good. I could scan your car for you with VAG-COM if you want. I seem to remember you wanting that done before. It would be to see how the bottom bit is attached. Here's what I'm thinking for DIY replacements for these parts. For the rubber 'tip' on the spring-loaded rod, some kind of plumbing washer glued on the end. Or maybe a protective rubber foot for furniture cut to size. For the plastic bit on the body, it might be possible to cut apart one of the rubber feet for the brake and clutch pedals and glue it on. These were fitted to Mk II Golfs (I had one) and so will be ten a penny in scrapyards. A rubber piece down the bottom might mean that a new rubber tip on the spring-loaded rod might not be necessary. There seems to be quite a few Corrados being broken on Ebay just now (sadly), so it might be possible to get these bits from a car being broken. Hopefully the plastic bit is straightforward to remove without breaking it.

Yeah, I still have that piece, which pushes the boot up when the button is pressed. It's just the rubber bit at the end of mine that is loose, but you're saying it's just a thing rubber piece? Perhaps something could be glued on. I'm actually a bit sceptical that the rubber bit (16a) is obsolete, because I would expect that to be shared across the range. I can understand how the plastic plate (17a) is obsolete though as it is likely to be Corrado-shaped only. But 16a and the associated plunger you would think would be common with other cars. I'll do some investigation with ETKA to see what I can come up with. However, it's looking like an alternative would be to glue some sort of rubber plate in place of the plastic plate. Perhaps one of those mobile phone/mp3 non slip mats cut into shape would do the trick? This might not even require a 16a part to work. It would be really, really helpful though if somebody could photograph both parts from an intact Corrado, so that we know what we're working towards.

Which rubber plug you need depends on the year of your car, i.e. consult your VIN number. I've just been to the dealers and both parts are obsolete (17a and 16a), so I'm afraid that scrapped Corrados seem to be the only option here, unless some sort of rubber plate can be glued on. There is apparently a 16a, i.e. the rubber bit (not sure which one, presumably late as that's what I was looking for) in a/the Winchester VW branch, but it would have been £10 to send it up on top of the few pounds for the part itself. Could somebody who has both pieces intact, please take similar photos to mine above so that we can see what we're missing? Perhaps something could be fashioned out of other material. I'll have a look on ETKA later (when I reinstall VMware to run it in) and see if there's maybe anything else that can be done. I suppose I should have looked on ETKA in the first place, but at least it's brought the problem to other people's attention anyway.

Excellent, thanks for that. Do you know what "16a" is? I wonder if it's a rubber plug. I think I've got that missing too.

I'm not too sure really. I know that for motorsports some people will fit adjustable FPRs. I don't know too much about it all to be honest. If I was guessing, then maybe the newer ones can cope with a 3 bar fuel system because of changes in the ECU and/or default maps? Perhaps the duty cycles, or even the injectors are modified to keep them open longer to compensate for the drop in fuel pressure? This is total guesswork. I think it's probably best to stick with what is currently in or what should be in already.

Ah, thanks for that (and your other post about the oil system). I'll investigate then and maybe get some peace from the incredible noise. Imagine squealing beetles climbing into your ear canal every time you hit the slightest bump. Drove me insane until I discovered the cloth trick!

Every winter (presumably due to the thermal contraction or something) I get a horrendous rattle in the boot which sounds like a combination of lock rattle and plastic against plastic squeaking. The problem seems to go away in summer. It is the most infuriating noise. After a long and fruitless search for the culprit I became suspicious and the following photo provides a 'solution' to the problem.climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfBoot rattle1.JPG[/attachment:z48gcroo] Yes, a thick cloth where the boot 'popper' thing touches, removes the problem, so it MUST be something to do with that. I have tried literally everything else, including adjusting the rubber stoppers (which sometimes give temporary relief). I suspect that the spring loaded 'popper' thing is rubbing against the bit underneath. I'm wondering if I have something missing here, like maybe a rubber plate or something. The next two photos show it without the cloth and also the spring-loaded bit too. Sorry the photos are a bit blurred. Am I missing anything obvious here that would cure my problem? It just doesn't look right where this strikes the body and it seems badly worn as if something's come off. It has always been like that ever since I got the car.2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfBoot rattle2.JPG[/attachment:z48gcroo] Boot rattle3.JPG[/attachment:z48gcroo]

A while ago, I realised that I didn't have a little plastic liner bit on my dipstick tube that other VWs of that era seems to have (and IIRC, ETKA lists too for the Corrado). I am concerned that my dipstick does not sit at the correct level and perhaps over-reads because of this. I seem to have quite a strange oil system setup. Firstly, my oil filter elements do not match those that are expected for my year of VR6 (1994). When I first bought filter elements I got the ones with the narrow central hole, but it soon became obvious that these wouldn't fit as the central 'thing' on the filter element housing was far too big. I have to buy them for a later Golf (around 1996 or something) in order for them to fit. Secondly, of course, I don't seem to have the correct dipstick setup according to ETKA. Here's a photo:Dipstick.JPG[/attachment:3897wqci] Have I got some sort of weird oil system from a later VR6 design? Why do I have to use filter elements with the large hole, and don't seem to have a dipstick plastic liner/spacer thing at the top? Is this a problem?

Here's some photos to help others get at the handbrake cable adjustment. You are supposed to remove the handbrake handle and then slide the lower plastic bit up, but I couldn't get this off. 'Thankfully' somebody had already previously broken the plastic bit just down from the handle so it came off easily and I just left the handle on and maneuvered the centre bit around it once I'd removed the other screws. The first 2 photos show screws that need to be removed. You might need to use a stubby and a flexible screwdriver for proper access. The 3rd photo shows the 4 screws under the rear armrest that also need to be removed to allow you to get the centre console off. Once that's off, you will see another plastic bit underneath that is attached with 4 plastic 'caps' screwed onto thread posts. Once these are removed you can see that this underneath plastic bit just rests on these posts but is held in by the plastic screw caps. Once this second plastic bit is removed then you have proper access to the cable adjustment locknuts. You are supposed to do this such that the levers at the rear brakes are just off the stop points (1mm or something?), but I needed to just remove massive free play for an urgent MoT so I had no time to mess around doing it perfectly. If anyone could point out exactly how to remove the handbrake handle then that would be appreciated for future reference. I couldn't find it at all, and the Bentley manual tells you to go to a section that doesn't actually exist! climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfHandbrake1.JPG[/attachment:1f045qjq] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfHandbrake3.JPG[/attachment:1f045qjq] Handbrake2.JPG[/attachment:1f045qjq]

Right, here's some photos to go with the write-up above. First up is the state of my old hoses: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfOld hose.JPG[/attachment:35lglsxk] See the split in the rubber? You can actually see the fabric layer underneath. This is one of the moulded corners that I've straightened out. Petrol wasn't leaking from here. It was only leaking from where it joins the fuel rail. The ends were starting to split. I sometimes think that these moulded hoses with their sharp turns are under more stress than straight hose that you've approximated to go round corners. My hoses seemed to date from 1993, which would make them original (car is 1994). I would suggest that this repair would be wise for most people if they have original hoses, as they are likely perished like this and you don't want petrol at 4 bar pressure spraying all over your hot engine. This is a very cheap and relatively easy repair (if you don't buy the VW parts!). Next, is a picture of what you need to buy in Halfords. Don't accept "We don't stock it.", as they do, and I even got this confirmed from head office when I was told they don't do it any more in branch. You need to buy two of these, as you need around 60cm per hose. They are £6.99 each and include 2 clips each, so nothing else is required. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfHosePackaging.JPG[/attachment:35lglsxk] Next up are two photos showing it fitted. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfHose fitted1.JPG[/attachment:35lglsxk] Hose fitted2.JPG[/attachment:35lglsxk] The first photo shows the hoses and how they connect to fuel rail, with the clips supplied with the kit. Note the plastic clips that hold on the original hose. These quite nicely shape the new hose into approximately the same shape as the moulded hoses, but with less sharp turns. Even if these clips break off, they still work as they are 'latched' on both sides. It's usually just the hinge that breaks off, but don't worry, they still hold fine. Ignore my oil leak from the rocker cover gasket. The bottom hose is the return to tank line. Make sure this attaches to the blue line under the airbox. It's easy to remember. Top goes to top, bottom to bottom. The second photo shows the other end of the hoses (sort of). You obviously remove all of the airbox stuff for access and the end of the hoses is under a velcro-attached flap. Pressurise the system by re-fitting the fuel pump relay and turning the electrics on to check for leaks, before refitting all the airbox stuff. Obviously don't start the car without the air system attached. Hope the pictures help.

Well, indeed, I've warmed to the idea considerably! Given that it's possible to get replacement plugs and repair wires from VW, then I guess a simple snip of wire isn't too much an ask, as you'd need to do that to repair it anyway. I'd be much more willing to do it if I had real confidence in the replacement loom, but a couple of people were not that happy with the current Ebay one (while others are delighted). I suppose it's partly because I'm fundamentally lazy and only want to do this once and do it right, so I never just jump into things. I also have very bad luck with faults. I literally can't buy anything in a shop without it being faulty or damaged, even inside the box. I am well known for this amongst my friends and family. I once bought a TV and opened the box to find it was the wrong TV inside it (an inferior model to what I'd paid for). I bought a 5 lamp light fitting for my living room too, and 3 out of the 5 glass flutes were smashed to powder in the box, before I'd even opened it. The list is endless. So, forgive me if I don't have utmost confidence in things I buy! I'm not into super originality really. I've got the Lupo wiper mod (but didn't throw out the old ones, just in case!). Incidentally, my Lupo wiper mod never fully solved the problem. I posted about this a while ago, but it turned out that my main problem was that somebody had reassembled the wipers with half the bits missing and in the wrong order. The wiper spindles were actually nearly 1cm further out from the screen than they should have been. But even assembling it correctly, with all missing bits replaced, I still get an unwiped triangle on the driver's side, especially as it gets colder going into winter. I thought it was because my driver's spindle was a bit loose in the wiper bracket so I bought another one on Ebay which didn't have this looseness but it made no difference. I would say my wipers are acceptable, but still not perfect. Perhaps I've got a negative outlook, but my experience with buying 'stuff' and getting anyone to do anything for me, be it mechanic, plumber, cable installer has just forced me to do as much as I can for myself. So of course, I'm considering making a loom myself. Hope that gives you a bit of an insight into the world's unluckiest shopper and why I try to preempt as much problem potential as possible.

Yes, I see he makes Euro versions too, but the picture shown says it IS the Euro version, but I guess he might have got the pictures wrong. I think I'll have a bit of a think about it and then email him some questions. Perhaps the guy might be interested in a group buy or something? I think it was $90 for the Euro version. I've lost track of the roller-coaster ride of the exchange rates recently, but I reckon that makes it somewhere between £45 and £60, which is expensive, but it does look good quality.

In case of what? I thought somebody would pick up on that. It's a long shot, but I'm thinking things like future MoT failures because the car's been modified, or EU meddling making DIY repairs illegal, that sort of thing. People might say "It'll never happen.", but look at how they've more or less banned incandescent light bulbs, because we're all too thick to be able to choose where CFLs are appropriate and where they are not. There are always background murmurs of banning DIY car repairs and fitting of non-OEM parts. There's also the situation where the loom fails for some reason. I would obviously try to minimise this by waterproofing. I like the idea of the waterproof boxes. But if a mod was reversible, then it would give you time to revert it back to normal while you consider your options, should it fail. I suppose I'm also a bit OCD and try to keep the car as original as possible. I don't like hacking things, or cutting things off or binning things. That's just me. My car is very original. I even still have my carbon cannister connected up! I would be OK with cutting a wire and maybe putting connectors on so that I can revert it to near-original standard (by reconnecting the terminals fitted at the cut). I know things can be desoldered. Do you see where I'm coming from? Or am I just an OCD freak?

Yeah, I was thinking of getting that one, but there have been a couple of bad reports on here. Do you know what the difference is between the SX5 and the others? When I looked at the picture on Ebay, it didn't seem to have enough pins. Does it do the dip and full beam, or just dip? Does it require any cutting of cables, or does it just attach to one of the existing headlight plugs? I emailed the guy on Ebay with essentially the same questions. The SX2 does either main or dip beam. SX3, SX4 and SX5 all do the same thing, but are different versions. SX5 used diode relays which have inbuilt protection of the relay or something. I asked about how it works, because it didn't seem that there were enough pins, and he said that it requires 2 cuts per side in the original loom, so presumably (I've asked him further questions) you are reusing the original connectors, but simply taking over 2 of the wires in the connector. I'm not sure how 'reversable' this is (I've asked him that), because I'm just slightly concerned that if, in a number of years, it stops working, then it will be difficult to restore it to the original. He says that butt connectors are used, so I've asked how they are attached to the wires once the cuts are made (are any tools required, for example) and if it would be possible to make this mod reversible by putting the corresponding butt connector on the other unused part of the wire from the cut, which would mean that it could be reversed if required later. he got back to me again really quickly and confirmed that I'm correct. His loom connects to the back of the existing connectors, by cutting 2 wires per side and connecting with a butt connector to the bit attached to the plug. I got butt and bullet connectors mixed up in my head there. Butt connectors are 1 piece, in which you can, semi-permanently, connect two wires together, but they're not unpluggable like spade connectors or bullet connectors, like I mistakenly thought it was, meaning that to undo this loom would require you to somehow destroy the butt connector or snip it off and re-join your original wires. But, I suppose if you wanted to make this loom more 'modular' and 'reversible', then you could make the cuts, fit some sort of spade/bullet or other removable connection to both sides of the cut, and then add little pieces of wire onto these looms at the butt connector with the opposite sex of connector at the other end to match what you've put on the plug. This would allow you to simply unplug the loom if required and restore the original system, by replugging the two pieces of the cut wires together again. It would be back to the original, except for the addition of a spade/bullet connector. So what's better? Bullet or spade connectors? Bullets seem to be less exposed, but I've seen fully insulated spade connectors. Besides, I would be using shrink tubing anyway, as I bought a box of assorted shrink tubes and have never really used them!

Yeah, I was thinking of getting that one, but there have been a couple of bad reports on here. Do you know what the difference is between the SX5 and the others? When I looked at the picture on Ebay, it didn't seem to have enough pins. Does it do the dip and full beam, or just dip? Does it require any cutting of cables, or does it just attach to one of the existing headlight plugs? I emailed the guy on Ebay with essentially the same questions. The SX2 does either main or dip beam. SX3, SX4 and SX5 all do the same thing, but are different versions. SX5 used diode relays which have inbuilt protection of the relay or something. I asked about how it works, because it didn't seem that there were enough pins, and he said that it requires 2 cuts per side in the original loom, so presumably (I've asked him further questions) you are reusing the original connectors, but simply taking over 2 of the wires in the connector. I'm not sure how 'reversable' this is (I've asked him that), because I'm just slightly concerned that if, in a number of years, it stops working, then it will be difficult to restore it to the original. He says that butt connectors are used, so I've asked how they are attached to the wires once the cuts are made (are any tools required, for example) and if it would be possible to make this mod reversible by putting the corresponding butt connector on the other unused part of the wire from the cut, which would mean that it could be reversed if required later.

Yeah, I was thinking of getting that one, but there have been a couple of bad reports on here. Do you know what the difference is between the SX5 and the others? When I looked at the picture on Ebay, it didn't seem to have enough pins. Does it do the dip and full beam, or just dip? Does it require any cutting of cables, or does it just attach to one of the existing headlight plugs?

I see. Thanks for the answer. In the first link, any idea what the smaller black connectors are, with the grey wiring? Are these for the flasher spots (or whatever you call them)?

I've been reading all the headlight loom threads tonight and it seems that the only real option now is to build your own, or to get the one on Ebay. I looked at the SX5 (or whatever) one on Ebay and I can't see how it works from the photo. Maybe it's the wrong photo, but there doesn't look like there's enough connectors to attach to the headlamps. Anyway, I started reading more widely about the problem. It seems it's a common problem for VWs of that vintage. I came across a few interesting links. Firstly, http://www.eurowires.net/wst_page5.html. Does that look suitable? The blue plug doesn't look right. Do American Corrados have different lighting systems in an electrical sense? They seem to sell convertors to convert between US and Euro headlight connectors, but it's not really clear where they should be used. Also, on the picture of the loom, the black connectors don't seem to look like how I would expect them. I thought an H4 bulb was a 3 pin affair, with the pins at 90 degrees to each other. This looks like a row of pins. Secondly, there's http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/Headlights.shtml. This website talks about the problem in general. About half way down the page, you can see a male H4 connector. Is this the connector that seems to be impossible to get? It seems this place sells these connectors. Also, http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm. This place sells male H4 connectors too. I'm confused now. I'm not sure what the connector to the headlamps looks like inside now, and I'm not going to go up the street to find out just now, as it's 2.30am and blowing a gale! Are any of the links above any use for this?

I'm interested but I won't pay up front. So stick me down on your list as my car is close to getting an advisory on the beam brightness at the next MOT. I'd want a loom that would do each headlight and each beam on individual relays so as to be safe and also be plug and play. Many Thanks. :salute: edit: the above looks a bit aggressive sorry it's not meant to read like that. :roll: Well I got my loom from KUR2Y about three weeks ago and got round to fitting it last week. Only been out once to check the improved brightness and there is a definite improvement. But be advised if you leave your lights on your battery will be complete flat in less than 4 hours! So carry some jump leads with the spare wheel. :bonk: Believe me you won't push start a Corrado G60 even with another's help unless your a strong man, even on an incline! Anyway the looms are of great quality and come with instructions. I bolted the earth wire to the chassis earth of the battery tray directly behind the battery as it in brand new (and the keen eyed may notice only in zinc primer at the moment) and has a thick braided earth cable going to the battery earth terminal which allowed the relays to be mounted to the front of the battery using tesco velcro tape. :) Here's some pictures. Thanks Again Zak. What's the little wire sticking out of the connector plug on the right hand side of the 2nd picture? Also, KUR2Y, are you still making these looms? I saw you had difficulty getting the OEM plugs, is this still the case? Two final questions! I'm assuming that you only need to use one of the original connectors for the signalling, is that correct? Also, you are using male spade connectors for this, I gather, because there is no female version of the connector, is that correct? Thanks.

So, has anyone managed to get the male side of the connectors? What about the guy on the other thread who went AWOL for a while? Were his truly plug and play? Personally I would prefer to be able to reverse the modification. Just in case.

Please, please, please do a write-up, and I promise I'll finish the write-up of my fuel hose replacement by adding the photos.

Right, I fitted my new hoses today. I'll do a write-up tomorrow, after I've taken some pictures. I forgot my camera today so unfortunately couldn't take photos during the job, but photos of after the job will do. I went to another Halfords after the email I got saying that they do stock fuel injection hose. They sell it pre-packaged (shrink wrapped), in 1m lengths and it includes 2 clips. The clips are stamped "Norma" and "13", presumably for 13mm. I felt these were a little tight for the hose to be honest, but with some fiddling around they work fine. The hose is actually 7.6mm internal diameter (ID). Since they are prepackaged in 1m lengths, unfortunately you get a bit of wastage as you need about 60cm for the hoses, which leaves you an unusable 40cm. But perhaps it might be useful for another car or some other purpose. It might be possible to buy it just off the reel, but I didn't ask. I was just pleased to get it. It comes on a black card, with "Fuel Injection Hose with Clips" written on it and "7.6MM DIA" and "1 Metre Length" written on it too. On the back of it, the sticker says it's Halfords part number "HFH503", made in Denmark. They cost £6.99, but this includes the 2 clips, so a total cost of £13.98 to do both hoses. Compare this with circa £70 from VW plus cost of clips. As I already said, the clips are "Norma" and 13mm. The hose looks very sturdy and was surprisingly easy to work into the shape of the moulded hoses that I replaced it with. I'll provide more detail in a write-up tomorrow, but the clips holding the moulded hose in place hold this replacement hose in place very well. Again, more details tomorrow, but a basic outline of the job is this: 1 Depressurise fuel system by removing the fuel pump relay (mine is stamped "109" upside down on the fuse and relay panel). Attempt to start the car, to lower the fuel pressure as much as possible. 2 Remove air box, MAF, air intake (right up to throttle body), PCV, to provide access to the 'tank' end of the rubber hoses. 3 The top hose is the feed, the bottom the return. Both are attached to plastic lines coming from the tank, and attached to the strut tunnel, right underneath/in front of the master brake cylinder. Undo the velcro to access these. The plastic line for the return is blue and is underneath the feed line. DON'T MIX THESE UP ON REASSEMBLY. 4 Starting with the top hose, undo the clip at the fuel rail end. You may have spring-loaded clips, one-shot or possibly jubilee like mine if a repair has been done in the past whereby the end has been cut to solve a leak. 5 Using a cloth to catch spills, with a jar or tub at the ready to catch overflow and shielding your eyes (the residual pressure is still enough to cause petrol to spray out), carefully twist the hose to break the seal and then slowly pull off the rail. There will likely be some spillage. Try to manipulate the hose to get the petrol to come out into your jar/tub. 6 Unclip the hose out of the plastic clips. If they break, do not discard as they will still hold. It will just be the hinge that is broken. 7 Again using a cloth to catch spillages, do the same at the other end. This end is likely to have a one-shot clip if it has never been off, like mine (my hoses were originals, made in 1993 (car is 1994)). Take great care not to break the plastic line as this will be a nightmare to replace I would imagine. 8 Repeat steps 4-7 for the return hose. 9 You may get petrol gurgling out of the fuel rail as you remove these hoses, sometimes squirting. Have plenty of cloths to catch these spillages and to avoid spraying in your eyes. 10 Now you are ready to fit the new hoses. 11 Starting with the return line, and with the new clip in place near the end of the hose, carefully attach the hose to the plastic line, pushing it on up to the end of the clean section where the old pipe would be. Dipping the hose in the petrol you caught earlier immediately before sliding it on will make it much easier to position on the plastic line. Adjust the clip for sensible tightening access later. The plastic lines are lined with metal so you can afford to tighten up reasonably well. Position the line back in place. 12 Feed the hose through all the clips, trying to minimise stress. You will find that it very neatly follows the path of the original hose, just with slightly wider turns than the moulded original. 13 Cut the excess hose off, taking into account the final bend before attaching to the fuel rail (i.e. don't just line it up straight and cut as you will likely make it a bit short). 14 Again, dip the hose in the salvaged petrol to aid it sliding on the fuel rail. Make sure you put it on the return line (bottom) and that you put the clip on the hose before doing this. Tighten clip up. 15 Repeat steps 11-14 for the feed line (top hose). 16 Before refitting the air intake system, refit the fuel pump relay and turn on the igniton (DO NOT START THE CAR), to repressurise the fuel system. Check carefully for leaks. Tighten clips as necessary. 17 Before refitting the air intake system, clean out any oil residue from the throttle body. Get someone to open the throttle (or gently push with fingers and clean as much gunk and oil off as you can. Carb cleaner can be good for this. This will make acceleration and run-on a good bit smoother. 18 Refit the air intake system, taking care to tighten up all clips. I also noted some oil leakage where my new PCV (see other threads) joined the rest of the breather hose. This does not appear to have a clip normally, but I guess it's been loosened off with the removal of the previous one, so I fitted a clip here and gently tightened, taking care not to crush the plastic. This was perhaps still letting in a small amount of air. 19 Go for a test drive, with the blowers on FULL, so that you can smell any petrol leaks fast! I found my car was again a bit smoother. My car is really running like new now with all I've replaced recently (not bad for 203k miles). My old fuel hoses were quite badly perished and I wonder if they were bulging slightly like old brake hoses do. Perhaps the new hoses have made the fuel pressure even more stable (I fitted a new FPR a wee while ago). I would encourage any competent home mechanic who suspects they have original hoses to do this job. It's cheap, technically easy (just take care with pressurised petrol) and takes about an hour if taking your time. Our cars are getting to the age where all rubber is perished. I'll write this up again tomorrow with some pictures, but I notice I've more or less written it totally up already!