hodaz

Look beautiful mate, considering there 1/4 of the price of the real deal they don't look much different :D

Are they Calibre Vintages? Look great, massive improvment

Looks amazing on the new wheels. Never thought I'd ever say this as BBS RS' are the ultimate wheel for the Rado but they actually look better IMHO!

I had a similar issue on my old Mk2 Golf using cheapo non-hubcentric 5mm spacers (by cheapo I mean the Halford universal fit type!). I upgraded to FK 10mm hubcentric (think FK are the only brand that make 10mm hubcentric) and it was fine. Yet another case of buy cheap buy twice :(

A common place for leaks on the VR6 seems to be around the thermostat housing and crack pipe.

Controlled by blue temp sensor. My phase 1 & 2 wasnt working a while ago and it was a wiring fault to the blue sensor.

Keep us updated on this and what its like to fit, I'd love cruise on my VR.

I'd just buy a running Mk3 GTi with low miles but uber tatty/mild accident damage/MOT fail which should set you back no more than £500, take a week off work and swap the engine straight over. Save loads of money on not needing to buy another car to use daily, get you back in the Corrado ASAP and should make a few hundred back breaking the parts off the Golf. I can't see the point is spending loads of money tuning/rebuilding an ABF engine, would be cheaper to sell up and buy a VR.

Those Rota's fill the arches out so nicely! Rota make some seriosuly tasty rims, I never knew they did European fitments (although Impreza's are also 5x100 I think)

Had a look but usually when other people have asked question its coupled with other runing issues, whereas mine is running perfect (touch wood!) otherwise, which would seem to rule out a lot of the potential causes.

Sorry to thread hijack but I get a little ticking noise from the tappets on my C when cold, what oil would people reccomend to minimise this? Last oil change I just used 10W40 Havoline Synthetic from my local petrol station as it was cheap. It never reallyt bothered me, just put it down to being an old car with 150k miles but if I can get rid of it by using posh oil I would like to.

As above getting the plastic screw cover off is the hardest part as there very tight, hammer and a screw driver is the only way to go. Getting the fuel lines off the top is a pain too (probably easier to cut them off). Remove the pump itself is easy, just push down and twist out, swap the level sender over, and then fit new one.

£350 for AP's is the best value mid-range coilover by a mile.

My pump relay went over the weekend. The way I tested it was using a battery charger and leads from a multimeter I jump started the fuel pump to make sure that was ok, since I knew the pump would run ok I knew it had to be a power suply issue to the pump. Relay 167 is common accross quite a few VAG cars, I picked up one out of a Polo down my local scrappy for £1.

I'm running Jamex coilovers and cant complain, bought them brand new for £120. They are firm but are still a significant imporvment over standard shocks with lowering springs as fitted by previous owner - in terms of both handling and comfort. Ideally one day I'd like to change them for KW's so the comfort is a bit better, but personally I only paid £2000 for the whole car so couldnt justify spending £500 on coilovers.

I have these fitted on my VR, they are great quality items but do have a negative impact on the ride quality. Although my ride quality wasnt the best to start with since I have Ebay special budget coilovers :lol:

Hi chaps, my 94 VR has been very well behaved recently but last few months its started stalling occasionaily, usually when the engine is warm and when pulling up to traffic lights the revs just die out and engine stalls. Sometimes the revs will die right down but pickup again before it stalls (sometimes the battery light wil flash on for a second) I've recently taken the ISV out and cleaned and lubricated it, cleaned out the throttle body and cleaned the MAF, but is still happening. Any idea's what this could be? It doesn't do it very often but its making dread stopping in traffic incase the engine stalls.

That steering wheel looks super nice, may have to treat myself to one next payday as all the leather has worn through on my standard wheel. Should look amazing on the RS'.

Those wheels are just porn! Marrying my two fave cars Delta Integrale and Corrado together :D

I've just had this exact same thought about wishbone bushes, £111 each + vat isnt good at all. Ended up buying a set of Flo Flex polybushes and going to fit them, will undoubtetly be a pain pressing them in, and possibly getting the old one's out, but should be worth it. I need to have a word with my local TPS next time I buy parts.

Love that colour change. I'm definately going to have a go at changing my grey leather to something else. Just got to decide what...

Been to VW to get new ball joints but new control arms were very expensive. How difficult is it to fit new control arm bushes, was thinking of using Polybushes? Do I need a press to put them in the existing arm?

I was hoping to get away without doing the bushes and ball joints, but looks like I will have to. Usually I would change the ball joints and change the full suspension control arm when I fit new coilovers to my cars, but this Corrado has cost me so much already I was hoping to get away with it since they looked fairly new. The ball joints are only a year old but looking through the receipts I think there cheapy GSF one's.

Will any 6n shape Polo rack do or does it have to be from that specific year?

Hi guys, Carrying on with my Corrado "rolling project" I'm finally starting to get the steering sorted. This weekend I fitted coilovers with new top mounts (old top mounts were totally knackered) and was hoping this would help but its still as bad as ever. Now I haven't yet went and got the wheel alignment/camber redone which obviously wont help matters. My main issue is just how vague the steering feels, I've noticed that if I grab the steering wheel I can actually move it around a fair bit (when locked in obviously) does this suggest a badly worn rack or is ths normal for an adjustable rack? Also when turning the steering feels very very light, just not precise at all. There is also a bit of a clicking noise on full lock - outer CV's? Jacked up the wheels don't really have any movement in them, apart from a little on the top mount since there is no load. Thanks