h100vw

Joe, my loom has one fuse each for dip and main beam. However, should my loom fail completely. No lawsuits that I am aware of. TOUCH WOOD You can always just unplug it and get home by reconnecting the std wiring... Big bulbs may need a bigger fuse in the main beam, because of the spotlights. If anyone has any Qs on that, I'll do the maths. I have started asking what bulbs people intend using to eliminate this problem. I have been running these looms for 8 years with out incident. The one on my G60 Golf I made in 97 and took off my MK1 before I sold it. Still works as advertised. A good squirt of WD in the plugs, every now and then is a good idea to prevent the chance of corrosion. Gavin

VW would replace the matrix with a new improved one, if that gave up before the recall was carried out. I sat on my recall for about 18mths on a C plate GTI. I eventually booked it in one thursday to be done the following tuesday. Friday night the wife comes home cursing, cos the heater won't clear the screen. I find coolant on the passenger mat. Ring back VW, the guys says no bother, if the matrix has gone we'll swap that instead. He also told me that, anyone who had a matrix replaced by VW, before the recall went out could claim a refund if they had the receipt. This was 10 years ago mind. The recall should still be good though. Kev, you need to ring VW, with your chassis number to find out for sure. Gavin

I welded up a crack manifold on my mates Uno turbo years ago. I ground the crack nice and deep with my angle grinder. I wound my mig up to 'ludicrous Amps'. Then ran a big bead down each side of the crack. The heat closed the gap and then I filled in the rest. It lasted over 2 years and was chuffing again when he sold it. Gavin

I hate to be mister picky, but the Black is the ign live. If it were an earth, you would be telling us a story about a fire engine. :shock: Big up to Kev, for the 'Bentley free electrics' though. :D Cheers Gavin Erm....it is a common connection, or earth, for the 3 pole ignition switch. The 30 amp red cable is the ignition live I think you'll find. I checked it with a multimeter last night when I replaced the switch. Ta Kev Whilst looking at the Bentley, the 4mm red is the permanent live. The 1.5mm black is only live when on position 1 and during cranking. Other wires go to the starter, 4mm red/black, the load reduction relay/X relay, 2.5mm black/yellow and a 0.5mm brown/red which feeds the radio. There is definately no earth at the ign switch. You will find that some of the wires have no potential on them, with the ign switch off. But that doesn't make them earths. As a part time alarm fitter, there are not too many different ways you can cut the starter motor and fuel pump feeds. I agree if you have time to bypass the system it can be done. I always try to remove more than the Thatcham required 30cm of cable for each cut, making it harder to find the two ends that need to be joined. I personally don't think the fitters are given enough time. Anyone fitting a cat 1 in under 4 hours has to be cutting corners somewhere. Bonus for doing 2 in a day???? Cheers Gavin

That's right, and the fuel consumption goes up!! If you go too far it can be nasty setting off. Spinning becomes a way of life. A couple of turns is plenty. Gavin

Jason, did you do any maths on the compression ratio? When you say fuel consumption went up do you mean it did more to the gallon? Did you sell the car or put a std bottom end back in? What about the ECU, did you do anything to it? Was the charger std or pullied? I know it sounds nosey but this is interesting given that most folks G60s have done 100K + and there are tons of 2 litre motors in the scrappies. Many with low miles on them. Cheers Gavin

I hate to be mister picky, but the Black is the ign live. If it were an earth, you would be telling us a story about a fire engine. :shock: Big up to Kev, for the 'Bentley free electrics' though. :D Cheers Gavin

What Steveo says.. Also, take a look under the hood, it might help if you get some spray grease and blow some onto the linkages. A little while back my G60s shift turned to $hit and that was all it needed. It was really stiff selecting pretty much any gear. Gavin

Steveo, thats the kind of thing you can see on a suntuner, if you know what you are doing. Gavin

Sounds like the intank one has died. You probably have poor performance if you rev the car hard, as the main pump cannot keep up with the demand made on it. A new one is pretty cheap and easy to change. Access is in the boot, 3 screws hold on the access panel and there is a big plastic looking nut you need to turn( hammer and punch?). The pump is connected to the fuel gauge sender etc. I can't remember if it just pulls out or not. There are a couple of pipes that you need to disconnect too. Note the colours and where they come off. Gavin

Ha sanyone any experience of a 2E(2 litre mk3 ) bottom end being used as a replacement for a PG/1H??? I saw a Rallye in Awesome the other day that was there cos it wouldn't start. The guy who did the conversion had the dissy in 90 degrees out. We moved the leads so the firing order was correct and...... It seemed to run ok. Clearly the compression ratio will be much higher, that would improve low boost performance. I wonder how long it'll last and whether you can get away with an off the shelf chip? Any thoughts? Gavin

Not adjustable to my knowledge. It is hydraulic and fed from the brake reservoir. It may help if you replace the fluid in both the brakes and clutch, by bleeding them. Gavin

I read a post on the American corrado club, eons ago. It said the problem with 'do wipers is there is not enough pressure onto the screen. All you had to do, was file a bit off the stop so the spring could work better. A 10 minute job that only cost if you had to buy a file. Worked great on my car. Gavin

If your motor has had the heater matrix recall done. It could be the valves under the bonnet. Loads of the late 80s early 90s VW had heater matrix problems. VW recalled them and fitted some bypass valves under the bonnet to prevent the matrix bursting and leaking. I had the valves on my 2 litre 16V Passat fail( the wifes car). She bitched for ages, I just ignored it cos my car was ok and I never drove hers. As a temporary measure you could remove the valves and replace them with straight pieces of pipe. If that fixes the snag and you get heat again. You need some new valves, Dub dealers often have them on the shelf. It could be a monster airlock in the matrix but my first guess would be the valves. Cheers Gavin

You shouldn't run AMP power and RCAs next to each other. The power can introduce intereference in the RCAs and lower the quality of the sound. Its far better to run them down under the sill covers, on both sides of the car. There are plenty of grommets in the bulkhead under the coolant expansion tank. Ideal for battery feeds. Make sure that you fuse it as close as possible to the battery to prevent that 'warm all over sensation'! Gavin PS I don't know anything about Toads. Sorry

Maybe but I think it unlikely. I do have a bit of hesitation every now and then. I thought it was a bad fuel pump so I got another from a young VR6 Golf. Same deal. I have been thinking of looking at my dissy cap. It's not been moved in over 2 years!!! :lol: I might swap it and the rotor, for the ones I got on a brand new 2 litre dissy on ebay, which cost me £10.52!! Bargin. And the plugs have been in as long. Gavin

Ka, the resistor is what gives you the dim dip. When you turn on the sidelights there is also a feed to the dip beam via the resistor. The resistor drops the voltage, which makes the bulb dim. When fitting the loom, there is enough voltage from the dim dip on sidelights, to power the relay for the dip beam. Disconnecting the resistor stops that happening. So you get sidelights and then headlights. Gavin

Steve and Steve, I have to comment here on the flatspot thing. My car had flatspots with the Jabba chip and also both the SNS chips I had. Following the custom mapping job, the flatspot has gone. No change of dissy, knock sensor or co pot. Steve P, do you replace both the dissy and knock sensor at the same time or have you changed them individually and dyno'd in between? Gavin

Did you disconnect the dim dip resistor? They sometimes make some freaky $hit happen. Gavin

corradovr6sc, I have a cooler fitted on my G60 Golf. It runs under 80degrees most of the time. On trackdays it can go up to 125 or so. The thing I see with mine is that the temps drop like a stone as soon as you get off the gas on to the warm up reg. I reckon yours is going ok. If you do plenty of trackdays, then maybe a bigger radiator would be a good idea. Gavin

Dave, A good mate of mine has a couple of places in your area. Didcots not that far is it. Alarms, phone kits and ICE. Let me know if you want his details. Gavin

I'd be sending the pair of them back fella. Might be nothing but you don't want to be doing the job twice. Or indeed paying for it to be done twice. Gvain

Any cat 1 worth it's salt will be able to shut your windows. You just extend the locking pulse. Usually 40 seconds does the job. I am not 100% the roof will shut. I don't think the facility is standard on Cs like it is on MK3 Golfs. They may be able to sort you with a sunroof closer, but that will cost extra. Cheers Gavin

Gary, look up racershardware in Peteboghorror. They fettled my AVOs countless times. Maybe they can sort them for you, cheaper than buying new ones. Gavin

Try one of these. 191 199 279E engine mount. I think GSF do one that ends in and 'F'. These tend to be much tougher than the std hydraulic one. If you have the facilities to weld, you can open it up and fill the holes in the rubber block inside. Then squeeze it back together in a vice and weld it back together. Some 6-8mm round bar fills the holes nicely. Cheers Gavin