h100vw

How many miles on the rest of the engine? Could be normal engine wear if it's done over 100K and been mistreated before you bought it. Duff seals and worn guides will definately increase consumption. Most likely seen on start up and on the overrun. I would be surprised if the guides and seals were not replaced when you had the head done. But, if only the seals were replaced, then the guides have got another 30K on them. New seals on old guides, will only reduce oil consumption short term. Cheers Gavin

I just replaced a ball joint on my Passat and also a Golf driver. Both had clunks that occurred over bumps. A CV would make protest noises whilst going round corners. Find an empty car park and drive slowly in circles(full lock) in both directions. That'll stress a bad CV joint if you have one. It'll also be speed related and speed up if you accelerate a bit. Gain

Yeah like FEC says, it's not cheap really. If the head gaskets gone and you can do it yourself, it's a £100 job. If it's not, it could be summat more or less expensive. Get one you know is OK. No test either, that could cost some brass to obtain. Brakes, brake pipes, CV boots could easily be a load of money. Gavin

All guess work-> That Vac pipe needs to be a metre long because it is a 'tuned length'. The pulses in the inlet manifold take time to make their way up the pipe to the MAP sensor in the ECU. If the pipe is shortened, the pulses get to the sensor quicker and confuse the ECU.(Cannot think of a better laymans explanation). It then cannot find and use, the correct fueling and timing requirements. You can shorten the pipe by a couple of cm and probably not create a problem. When you get to 5+cm short, thats when the poor running starts. Like Henny says it is cheap cheap and would be the first thing I'd check on any 10 year old G60. You can do the timimg easily but you need a timing light. If you don't know what one is, I'd recommend that you get it checked by a garage. Cheers Gavin

You are looking at 16 inch wheels to go over the Brembos. If you are not already running 16s or bigger that is quite a large additional expense to fit them. If you upgrade to G60(280mm) brakes I think you'll be in fine shape. Even with plain discs and some fast road pads. The brakes on my Golf are more than adequate on the track, so road conditions should pose no problems. You could get some 4 pot Wilwoods, for similar money to the Brembos without the need for 16s. Gavin

Stage 4 refers to a charger that has been worked to improve airflow through it. Have a look at http://www.kompressor-kanada.ca for rebuilds. Or do a search on http://www.vwvortex.com. There is a sticky 'which rebuilder thread' in the G60 forum. KK can do some repairs to the casings and maybe even the displacer. If yours is not repairable, I am sure they would have some spares, that would get you back on the road. The main danger with buying 2ndhand, without evidence of a recent rebuild, is getting yourself another bad charger. KK do an inspection service/tuneup. I would personally be reluctant to buy used without looking inside it myself (I have rebuilt a couple) or sending it off for an inspection by someone who knows them. KK and other rebuilders do sell chargers and also they warrant them. It may cost more up front, but in the long run money well spent. Oh and I have absolutely no connection with KK. I have always found the answers in the G60 forum, from David, to be very accurate and credible. Gavin

Does he still run the heat exchanger? My Golf runs at less than 80 most of the time. Going up to 90 on the sustained high speed motorway run. Trackdays get it to 120+ but it drops quickly on the cool down lap. 2 miles gets it under 100 easy. Oil cooler=essential fitment on any G60/hybrid What management will you use? You will need a remap for sure. SNS do G60/turbo chips in the States, maybe Bilal can sort you one over here?? I know that Vince at Scole Engineering in Diss has done several turbo conversions. He knows plenty about them. Not saying no one else does though. Gavin

If the orange light goes out and stays out, your ABS is working. Any problem at all will put the light on. The ABS tests itself everytime you power it up. Gavin

I think the VW handbooks will tell you that anywhere on the gauge is OK for the water temp. If there is a problem the led should flash to warn you. The LED will come on for both low level and overheat situations. I'd just carry plenty of water around with you til friday and top up when required. Be aware though, the temp gauge may stop working, if the water level drops far enough that the sender is not immersed in water. I saw that on my G60 when the headgasket went. Gavin

I got some Bosch ones from Halfords. Look just like factory ones with the heat shields etc. They were about 20 quid. No problems with them to date(30 months) Gavin

If the pistons are bigger on a MK4 caliper, you'll introduce a longer brake pedal because of the extra fluid needed. The MK3s would be my favourite and they are a bit cheaper too I think. Gavin

http://www.newdimensions.com/

Which engine are you running. That would make a difference as to who can do you a chip. Gavin

Maciek, I'll take a look at the Bentley and make sure there are no strange anomalies with your standard set up, that would make things awkward. I know that New Dimensions do Euro lights and looms. Maybe their website will tell you more? Gavin

I'd say a service would be cheaper than re-engineering your car to take a Merc charger. Depending on your annual mileage, it could be 3years or more before you need to do it again. G60s are ok providing, you are prepared to look after them. Regular oil changes etc. Gavin

Fellas, the original systems are made in one piece for ease of fitment, during manufacture. If you get a replacement backbox, the usual deal is to cut off the original with a hacksaw and stick the new one on. There are usually some marks on the pipe, where you are supposed to cut it. Gavin

With reference to the ECU vacuum hose, it has to go on the right outlet on the throttle body. ETKA seems to show the ECU hose on the top outlet and the lower one going to the Carbon canister thingumajig. That SNS idiots guide has some good info on it. You can prove the O2 probe by tapeing up the full throttle switch. The ECU then ingnores the probe. Don't run like this for long though!!!! If it rund OK you need to fiond out why. The probe may be OK as you have a new one but the wiring to it could have been damaged during fitment. Like stevemac says, setting the timing correctly is important. Too retarded and it'll run with no guts. My feeling is vac pipe,( someone replaced the throttle body and connected it wrong) does it go OK if you use a small amout of throttle and let it run in each gear? If the Vac into the ECU is wrong or none then the ECU cannot output the right advance for the engine speed/load. Gavin Kompressor Kanada is near you I think, in Canada at least.

So you were in the Mob then. I did my time at Cosford, Finningley(God rest its soul) and St Mawgan. Where did you get the diagrams? online? send me a link and I'll point you right. Gavin

I take it you are a Scouser then. I live in Newton le Willows near Haydock. Although I am from York originally. I rated Oslo highly for the 'scenery' :lol: How did you end up in Norway? I was on a contracting job at Gardermoen. Top working conditions, defo the best contracting job I have had. Really easy going people. I lived in a bedsit the company provided, pretty close to the Palace. It was like pages 25,26,40,41 and 53 out of the IKEA catalogue!!!!!!!!! :shock: I'd go back but the tax was tremendous and beer was proper pricey. Even more than London nightclubs. :shock: :shock: info from work in the morning Gavin

Are you a brit? I met a lad at Oslo, working for SAS he was exRAF Tornados. He met a Norweigian girl when he was on detachment and ended up moving over there. I'll have a read of the bentley later and try and give you some answers. Cheers Gavin

I had bother with my Jetex until I fitted new exhaust rubers. You need all of them replacing at once. Like I said the rear bumpstops need to be perfect ie new. My Golf still makes me grin round corners. Far better to spend good money on conventional suspension, than fit cheap coilovers. Don't forget to have the alignment and camber checked out afterwards if you are fitting the stuff yourself. Cheers Gavin

Press the trip reset again. It might be stuck half in/out?? Gavin

I had the Weitec kit on a 16V C years ago. I removed it and have it one my Golf now. Top quality gear. I had teh TX adjustable kit but the GT is pretty much the same. I think the damping is on a par with the TX set to stiff. Thats where mine has been since fitment. I think the Gt can still be adjusted by circlips for rear rideheight. The front on mine was way low and speed bumps were a bit of a prob with the 90mm spoiler. Also with big drops your exhaust needs to be fitted right, new rubbers help matters and new bumpstops are important too. I don't think you would be disappointed with the Weitec stuff. Gavin

The only time I did in Norway was in the summer. Beautiful. The fuse board is on the drivers side. The lid has the major fuses listed on it. So that should tell you which is which. Do the dip beams work ok? When you go to main beam do you end up with just the side lights?? With the ign on shield you window switchs, are they lit up in green? What do you do by the way, so we can pitch the advice at the right level. Gavin

With regret, I second Joes comments ref Jabbasport. They are no longer the 'ones'. IMHO. Too much money to be made in 1.8Ts. They were great 3 years ago when I had my first rebuild but...................... Talk to Beavis or g-man. Pitstop and G-werks. Two of the most helpful blokes in G60s going.....