h100vw

Or a nice Diesel badge. Gavin

Ooooo, nice. Maybe I should get one for my Syncro... Gavin

Dave Walker( Emerald ECUs) from the now dead CCC magazine uses Colways on his track day beemer. He rates them. They are cheap and cheerful yes but you can get them in different compounds. As always it depends on your budget, personally I have had some top days out on road tyres. A539s and Michelin Exalto are both excellent for road and track. Gavin

I'll stick another vote up for Gwerks/Pitstop. :mrgreen: Gavin

Exactly what wattage bulbs are you using where? I take it the full beam relay is teh one taking the hit? Gavin

Apologies for the late arrival, I only check the portal normally. You need to wary of going too big with the spotlight bulbs when fitting one of my looms. As the power for the headlight AND spot go thru the same relay on main beam it will exceed the 'safety margin' in the loom. I would recommend 80/100 H4s for the headlight and 55 W for the spots. Any of the 20-30-50% brighter bulbs are OK as long as they say that they consume the same current. If you are minted, PIAA have some proper smart bulbs that produce nearly twice the output of a std bulb yet only use std current. Shamless plug :mrgreen: Anyone else needing a loom knows where I am....... Gavin

4-2-1 gives good mid range, 4-1 would give you better top end. I have seen this myself on a KM1 Golf. Taking off the $-1 and returning to a std setup killed the top end and prevented it from revving out. Gavin

IMHO if you needed additional bumpstops you would get them in the kit. Check with your supplier. Bumpstops have another job over preventing sudden bottoming out but the length should have been calculated by the manufacturer to take into account all the variables, shock length, spring rate etc. I would fit them as delivered rather than trying to second guess FK. Gavin

No one remembers the 100s of thousands out there that are racking up millions of miles between them. They only remember the handful that die due to neglect. Gavin

You need to check the tail lights out, I think they may be on the same fuse. I doubt the switch to be at fault. Gavin

The 3 screws that hold each light are independant of the adjustment. No need to mess with anything. Gavin

Mike, have you looked on ebay? You won't get them for monday but the setting of your lights won't be affected. Gavin

On my 16V Corrrado the Jetex wacked axle until I had a local garage warm the pipe with their bottles and flatten it a bit. Job done! Exhausts definately a problem on dubs with lower springs. I have sometimes cured/ reduced the problem by fitting new exhaust rubbers. The exhaust isn't so low to start with and the new rubbers don't let it move so much( for a while at least). Gavin

Just stick it all together and drive it. It's no more likely to go wrong if you put the head on now or in 25 miles, assuming you do it right. :mrgreen: Even Henny with a good engineering background has stuff go wrong on him. Usually materials not workmanship. :roll: Gavin

The fact that it runs briefly and cuts is to show that the engine and management are OK. This means that there is still a problem with your immobilisation. You say you had another key sorted. Did you have both coded at the same time or just the new one. If you have one replacement then all the keys you want to use, MUST be coded at the same time. Any not coded at this time, will not work. Gavin

If you grind the head off I think you'll still be stuck, as the caliper bracket won't move far enough to clear the remainder of the bolt which is running through the hub. My favourite is a spline drive hammered in or molegrips if you can get the access. Gavin

He has a problem with a front caliper dude. :) Gavin

If it was me I'd go and get a caliper from a scrappy. One off a Passat, as there are plenty, make sure it has vented discs on it. Undo the bleed nipple before taking the caliper off as you don't want to end up with another busted one. Or use this as an opportunity to upgrade to 280s....... If money isn't a problem, then maybe you can buy a new pair from GSF etc. As it is a common caliper, they are 'reasonably priced'. I keep a pair of Passat calipers in my garage all the time, to save having to mess about when this kind of thing happens. Gavin

The blue sensor feeds the ECU with engine temp. If it dies the ECU will assume the worst and overfuel in case. Hence the poor mileage. Gavin

Bad lambda probe or blue temp sender in the top hose are the most likely causes of poor 'gas mileage'. Or the wiring. Have a look on http://www.snstuning.com for troubleshooting guide for stuff like this. You can swap teh blue and black plugs over and see if there is any difference in the way it runs? A new temp sender would only be about $20 US max, I have no idea on the Canadian exchange rate sorry. Gavin

defo a cable box. no Corrado came with owt different, except autos. Gavin

Looks to me like the end has snapped off the cable. Lots of cables in the breakers. Anything else thats missing will be connected to this... .http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=9889&item=2491439232&rd=1 You can get the same bits off any cable change box at the scrappy. gavin

Curly pipe going to it near the shifter cables. Gavin

Don't take this the wrong way, should you be taking it out if you have to ask how? Not really a complicated task but the tools and facilities required would not be the contents of everyone's garage. Definately a more pleasant job if you have access to a ramp. Trolley jacks and axle stands is the hard way for sure. :( Chances are that it is pretty bad if it has chucked the oil out. Is there a hole in the diff casing that you can see? It could be the diff pins that have come out. Although this is very common on rod change boxes I haven't heard of a cable change box doing it. I do hope it turns out to be something simple. Gavin

Halfords fit Laserline, have a word with them. Probably the bonnet switch shagged. Try disconnecting it. Gavin