h100vw

The calipers are slightly different. The 280 discs are 22mm thick as opposed to the 20mm thick 256 discs. Some pads will not fit 256 calipers with 280 discs, others will. You can of course take a bit off the pads to make them fit :wink: I had some EBC pads and they had an anti squeal shim bonded to them. With that removed they fitted ok, I just used some copper grease to do the job instead. Gavin

Gman, pm sent

It is an interference engine, however, a mate of mine had a belt go on his Golf. He just stuck a new one on it and it had survived completely. It would do the head if one of the valves bust off. If you need some valves, I just bought a set off ebay and I only need 2 for a head that I have. Gavin

:idea:

Any word of this one yet Henny??

You can't just dropthe cam in. But there is a fella around here who modifies them I believe. Buy a secondhand one and have it sorted then fit it, then sell your spare inlet cam to someone with a 2 litre 16V. :mrgreen: The Warm Up Regulator mod involves altering the fuelling. There is power to be had, probably not much, by getting the fuelling spot on. Any mass produced engine, fuelling and ignition system is never going to run as well as one that has had time and money spent perfecting it. Don't be under any illusion you are creating a VR beater! :roll: At best you may get 145-150 tops.

If I had the luxury of a brand new motor, unlikely, I would just get in and drive it. Wait til the water and oil are to temp and then use as normal. Driving up long hills from lowish revs in 4th up to say 5000. And repeating several times is one theory I have read about. I'll post a link when I find the site again. Dribbling about for a 1000 miles at 70 on a motorway is definately not the way to do it. Don't be surprised if it runs hotter than before, like Henny was, everything is dead tight to start with. It may take a couple of thou to slacken off initially. I like Hennys oil change theory too, and defo NO SYNTHETICS.. Gavin Found website. I think there are some very interesting theories in here and it is well worth reading everything this fella has to say. Some of it may be cobblers but without a lot of time and money it would be hard to prove which is the best way to do it.. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Start with the sump. Cheaper gasket. :mrgreen: Undo the bolts on 3 and 4 see if there is slack in the little ends. And obviously damage to the big ends. Gavin PS I have a set of big end bolts, a set of rods with bolts and if things go really bad, a crank in my garage. I can bring any of them to work tomorrow if you need them.

That would do it. Gavin

Do they have a website?

What their problem with shipping outside Germany? The cost or getting the money from you?? Gavin

Hennys motor has about 3K on it. He wouldn't have left the old lifters in given the amount of money he has spent on that engine. Gavin

He started with a 1H block from a Rallye. Gavin

I'd confirm the oil pressure before spending money!! Gavin

Nitrogen is used for inflating tyres because it is inert. A massive safety factor when used in aircraft tyres. No nasty blowouts taking out your fuel tanks. Except in Paris :cry: Gavin

I didn't think it was night and day when I did this swap to my C. At the time I was a bit disappointed. It wasn't until I got on the motorway that I really noticed the difference. Not having to change out of 5th to accelerate from 70 was the main thing I noticed. I sold the car to a mate and he swapped the cam back prior to selling it on and commented on how flat it felt afterwards. Gavin

The one that goes up in the box section under the footwell is the b1tch. I doubt plus gas would climb the length of that bolt. A geezer at a dealer told me to try doing it up a bit first. This worked a treat on my MK2 at the time. Use your bar. Gavin

Thick red/black is the starter, thick red is the permanent 12v feed. thin black is ign live. I think the yellow/black is the feed to the relief relay/X contact. Gavin

Russ, PM on its way. Jim and Dom thanks for the kind words. As jedi-knight83 says, you can make one for less money but could you actually make it? Gavin

The big ends are the ones that wear out on G60s. The knocking that creates, in my experience, can be heard best on a light throttle in first gear just about 1500 revs. The rest of the time you couldn't hear anything at all. A cheap job if that is it. ten quid for the shells and a couple of hours to change them. If you are being really keen then you should replace the nuts and bolts in the rods too, which is about another 20. gavin

Get yourself a roll of bodge tape, it has been used to fix all kinds of things aeronautical and automotive. :roll: I have a roll in my garage which you may use if you need it. I also have some grey self amalgamating tape which would seal that split pretty much indefinately if required. :mrgreen: Have a look at http://www.thinkauto.co.uk. I saw some Mocal boost pipes on pitstops website earlier. Gavin

Are you sure the drain line isn't blocked? When you fit the seals do you need to press them in or can you do it with your hands? I had a seal that kept blowing out behind the pulley. I changed it 3 or 4 times the first ones I could push in with my thumbs, the last I had to use a hammer to do the job. Is the housing perfectly clean, no oil, when you fit the seal? Have a look on http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com they do individual seals. They may be cheaper than your local place too. Gavin

Does it occur all the time? Or is it a heat induced problem? Bearing in mind the high ambient temps we have seen recently. Gavin

I think there is one on matey matey. I keep mine in my head :lol: Gavin

Yeah it worked good. Unlike the lead to plus no 2 yesterday. G60 on 3 does about 60 flatout :cry: Luckily I had all the family with me on a day out :roll: £30 at the blue planet aquarium plus food and £25 for a new set of leads on the way home. :cry: Cheap day out