h100vw

You could take the rightangled elbow off the top of the metering head and make sure it's free from oil residue. If you lift the flap in the middle with a pair of pliers, when you let go it should return to rest smoothly. If it doesn't that could be a cause of the running on. Also you could give it a wipe out with a clean rag. I would squirt WD40 or something similar to thin the oil residue and wipe it out gently. If you lift the flap carefully then you can clean the edges of it and the metering cone. You could check the injectors are firing ok by pulling them out of the manifold, set them to squirt into a jar or bottle. Prime the fuel system by turning the ign on/off a couple of times. The injectors should not be leaking with this pressure behind them. Next lift the flap in the metering head, this will allow fuel to flow thru the injectors. It should come out in a cone shape. CLICK HERE! You need one of these to pull injectors without damaging them. DISCLAIMER :mrgreen: You will know whether you have the ability to carry out the above. If in any doubt please pay someone, rather than torch yourself. Don't come running to me if you break a leg :cry: Gavin *mod edit - Link from hell shortened a bit! - Henny*

Get some comparison values off the autotrader and if you have done any work to your car, produce SOME :wink: receipts for the work and the parts. Anything you can do to show that you had lots of money in the car will lend weight to your argument that it is worth more and that you have looked after it. Who hasn't seen a low mileage car of any kind that is completely worn out. A big mileage, well maintained car is going to be better to run, than one that has dribbled around town for 10 years. I bought a mk3 Golf 16V that had been clocked down to 80K from 160. You wouldn't know to look at it. It's not mint body wise but when I got the printout from VW it has had lots of money spent on it by the previous owners. Failing the above, try to get it back. Tell them you'll take the 2000 AND the car. Assuming you have room to break it. When it's all gone get on the case for replacement. Have they taken it away or do you still have access to it? It's never a good idea to have them removed from the scene by 'an approved' recovery company. Bits always go missing while in storage and nobody knows anything about it. As for the formula they are probably using £100 per 10K over the average and then chipping you to 2000 hoping that you'll just roll over. Gavin

Getting teh dwonpipes out is a big job, I'd go for having a spare handy in case it's not weldable. Are you 100% it's split and not a gasket thats blowing? Gavin

40% by volume of the total capacity of the system? A bottle hold 1.5 litres and the system totals around 4.5litres.

If it were me, I'd angle grind a notch in it, until I could get a chisel in to spilt it. Or get your self a blow lamp and get it nice and hot. Probably get something small behind it to lever it off then. Gavin

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det. ... ir=catalog One of these makes those clips a piece of p*ss to remove. The Snap on man near me usually has a cheaper one by Blue Point on his van. No more cut knuckles with one of these.. In fact mine looks like this but I only paid about 30quid for it. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det. ... ir=catalog Gavin

I don't want to sound like I am peddling my looms but the ones on ebay do not feed the main beam. Sticking bigger bulbs in the main beam you risk burning out your headlight switch. I am sure VW built in some safety but I doubt it was 4 times the intended use. Gavin

You can adjust the warm control pressure with the WUR. In the back under a tamperproof cap is a 4mm allen key. Clockwise will REDUCE the control pressure and up the CO. Anti clockwise will INCREASE the control pressure and reduce the CO. When you go WOT the vacuum connection reverts the WUR back to a 'cold' condition, this jacks up the fuelling. If you want to be well read on this subject I would suggest reading 'how to tune and modify Bosch fuel injection systems' or similarly worded title. It has a shot of a MK2 16V on the front I think. A very good book. You should also invest in a fuel pressure gauge for the k-jet system so you can see exactly what changes you have made, rather than changing variables and never being able to go back to where you started. Gavin

Oh yeah rears :roll:

Late MK2 16V, Passat from 88-96 with vented front disks will fit too. Gavin

I think this shimming would be required on a well modified kjet motor. Chnaging teh control pressure will cause a richening/weakening throughout the rev range. The sahpe of teh cone in the metering head is what controls the mixture. If you are running out of fuel at the top end then changing the cone is the 'right way' to adjust the problem. You can get the mixture you need, at the expense of richening everywhere else( more fuel consumption), by reducing the contol pressure further or increasing the mixture setting or adjusting the mixture at each cylinder. Under the cap by each outlet on the metering head is another 'mixture screw'. clockwise to richen anti to weaken. IMHO Vsam and Kstar are the best solution to this issue. You can get the richeing you need yet still maintain good economy. Both come up secondhand for little money and they are almost infintely adjustable. Again IMHO the Vsam Pro on my C did not make a noticeable difference when connected. Gavin

Could be. Look up the fuse for the dash and re-rack it. It may clear the fault but don't hold your breath. Gavin

If the consumption is pants then I'd bet money the probe is at fault. Look for broken wires as a starter. Some brain doner just tied the probe on my mk3 16V to a heat shield when fitting a bypass pipe. Imagine my surprise when I got another 10MPG by fitting it in the pipe???? With a digital voltmeter probe the purple/violet wire for dc volts. If you get a steady voltage it's probably donald ducked. Once the engine warms up it should never get a steady reading. The voltage constantly changes and a DVM is unlikely to catch a definate output. Gavin

What about the lambda probe. Maybe thats 'done one'. Could be the flap in the metering head sticky. Gavin

There is no reset facility on a G60. Try it by all means but I asure you that it does no learning at all. The maps are all burnt into the chip. Gavin

Delta Oil Europe Linconshire, United Kingdom, +44 (0) 1572 768311 The importers, discount for clubs. Not cheap oil mind but cured 95% of the crunching in my syncro box. Gavin

You won't need the 3.5BAR FPR with those injectors. They will flow plenty of fuel for a 68mm pulley. You would only need it if the chip was written for the injectors AND the FPR. I would get the head flowed. Chances are it could do with new valve guides, a skim would make it a bit better off boost too. Your best bet is to get all the stuff done at once and have someone make a custom chip for it. Each time you change something, it'll cancel out stuff you have already done. Gavin

Yeah, I tried to link to the plate demo but it wouldn't work. :roll: humm i think you should get that gav before we buy the passat of you ... :lol: Well Darren, you never know. I got word from OZ that they will recognise my qualifications as an Avionics engineer. It'll be no good in OZ as you cannot use a LHD car. Watch this space............... :lol:

I think you can get the valves from GSF. Stevemac can you confirm or deny my claim? :mrgreen:

Really? I admit i know p*** all about vw's but all the hub nuts i've played with (VX and Ford) have had stupidly high torque requiremets - like 300ft lbs or 120nm +180 degrees! That could be correct for a sealed bearing on a front drive car. VW front bearings tend to be pretty tight 100lbs or so. Gavin

http://www.4plates.co.uk/germanplates1.htm http://www.dubmeister.co.uk/

A squirt of silicon or something helps when assembling these pipes. Holding the fiiting carefully in a vice helps. MAybe you can cut the pipe off and try again if you have a bit of spare length on them. You can use 2 replacement hoses from a carbie 8Valve to bypass the std oil cooler. Gavin

I agree with John, why leave the std oil 'heater' on when the object of the exercise is to improve the cooling? I do have to also comment that the removal of the std oil cooler, reduced the load on the water system to such an extent that my Golf rarely came out of the white during the winter. I am pretty sure the radiator on a G60 Corrado is smaller than that of a Golf. Even with the oil cooler fitted the oil temp could get as high as 130 on a track day but as soon as you back off to warm down, the temps started to drop rapidly. Gavin

Double check the connections and ensure that you disconnected the dim-dip resistor.

Were the instructions on paper on by email? Can you scan them or post them? Does it mention disconnecting the dim-dip resistor at all? Gavin