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Good to hear! They are a bit stubborn - at leas now you know they are new and won't crumble - the window should operate a bit better as well.

Ah, knowing their usual form, I bet they had a few boxes of the US spec part left over lying around - probably sent back to Germany by VW USA after they were found in Area 51 or that place they stored the Ark of the Covenant!

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/part/535919044AH?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=B2C | EN | 02%2F2023_Special Deals No use to me with a VR, but could be handy for any of the G-Lader crowd. Reduced from 115 to 24 euro.

Put the glass in the half-open position and this should give enough access - it will still be slightly obscured by the inner door panel. Then a bit of gentle persuasion with a large flat blade driver should get it off - a bit of warming up with a hair dryer or heat gun will help as well. Oh, and be careful if operating the window with one roller off - you'll need to support it a bit as it operates.

A small bit of grease and a long water pump pliers worked fine for me to fit the rollers - put them in the channel. line up the ball on the arm and a slight amount of preasure should do it. You might need to move the window up and down to get the optimum position to get at it.

Just an idea - there is a central locking actuator wire that goes from the door handle to a connection clipped on to the door panel - it is suppsed to go down the rear wall of the door - there are two cable clips that sit in holes in the panel - maybe these have come loose and it is catching on the glass? Easy way to check would be to remove the handle securing screw and see how far you can pull the handle out - with the cable tight it should hardly budge at the lock end. The silicone grease is a good plan as well.

Does anyone have any of these - lookingfor two in good condition, part# 535837865, and cover the access aperature on the rear of the door, near the lock. All the usual sources seem to be out of stock, although it looks like they were available recently enough: https://www.nkautomotive.de/shop/en/product/56331/original-vw-cover-cap-535837865.html Otherwise, I'll take a look at cutting a template out of vinyl adhesive or something. Thanks

Yeah, they don't seem to care that the cars that got them to where they are today were the Type 81/85/89 cars - the Ur Quattro, Coupe and 80/90/100s. and the Group B rally era. They have a few in storage that they can roll out for press events and don't give a toss about enthusiasts trying to restore or keep these models on the road. That's they way it was in 2003 when I bought mine, and I hear it's not much better, if even worse, today.

KV engine code - naturally aspirated inline 5, 2226cc as far as I remember. Not the fasted but still 0-60 near enough 8 secs, and with the quattro drivetrain it was always quick off the line and sure footed in the corners! The I5 engines were silky smooth, with oodles of torque - an absolute pleasure to drive, whether fast or cruising - I've never driven any other car where I like the engine as much.

I had an 1987 Coupe Quattro until about 10 years ago - parts were impossible to fine, even worse than the Corrado. There were only about 700 or so made in RHD, so a rare car.

Ha ha - on the last page you need to squint to make out the winner at the bottom! Although you can figure it out from the rest - the only thing I thought is that they had made their mind up already based on the beginning requirements and had picked some cars that were obviously not going to fit the bill. There's a clear preference for open-top two seaters expressed, and they would easily have found a few more in that category - if the Mazda had been in it it would have won.

Interesting - so I guess it must just be age related then - btw, I meant possible damage in storage/handling and transit by the suppliers, not on the customer's part. Didn't mean to imply that you had damaged your own pump!

IF the Mk3 pump has the same swirl pot mountings and location for the fuel level sender, it should work. I think the cracking problems are not so much poor quality (not generally an issue with VDO) but the result of age (these might well be 20 years old), poor storage and bad handling in transit and warehouses. It definitely means you should check them over carefully after receiving one. I don't think the swirl pot would disentigrate anyway.

I think there are very few 4 bar pumps out there - nearly all sites list the 3 bar pumps as being suitable for all VR6 engines, AAA/ABV/1.8/2.9 - I've never tried it to see what happens - you could probably either change the FPR, or hope the 4 bar regulator lets the pressure build up. It's also possible to buy individual motorsport pumps of the right output, and there are billet mounting plates available that can fit onto the grooves in the tank floor if you want to go down that route - it's a bit more expensive, but hey, the price of a new VDO that may or may not be past its sell by date isn't cheap either!

Yeah, it was a pain when it happened as I had no pump at all - and when something like that happens, it can be hard proving that it wasn't your fault - but luckily I've been doing business with that particular parts specialist for years and several different cars, so they trusted me and were happy to replace FOC. Even when I've had dodgy parts with no return possible, they have sold me a replacement at cost.

I think some of these can be new old stock that was manufactured quite a while ago - I can hardly see them making large runs of them new recently. I had one at one point where the nozzle broke clean off after test fitting a hose, not even tightened with clip or anything and had to get it replaced with another one.

Absolutely - nicely done. I would be happy to in buying some off you as well if you get around to making a run of them.

Thanks - yep, keeping an eye on that thread. I have a NOS wiper linkage frame and my motor is in good condition, and also have a new short link - so just looking to get hold of the longer linkage now.

It's the molded on bushes that go and cause slop in the linkage - that's why I'm hoping to find a NOS one from the group buy if possible rather than second hand - the old on I have still works ok, but with a bit of play, and is likely to be at least as good as any s/h one.

Thanks Keyo - don't need a motor, but good find on the small link piece. I'll seeif I can order it. 17 looks to be unavailable, only the left hand drive version in stock, so still looking for that one.

Looking for the long wiper linkage arm for RHD, 536955326. I have the shorter one, and I know there was a group buy on these, or a lot was bought from Classic Parts (now out of stock), so wodering if anyone has one squirrelled awaty that they'd be willing to part with - currently rebuilding the whole wiper assembly. Would also be interested in the short link rod (#2 in picture), if available. I think someone on the FB group said they had one, but for the life of me I can't find the post again! Many thanks.

Interesting - I've never seen the foam stops on any I've taken out, Corrado or Mk2/Mk3 over the years, must be at least hald a dozen, so I guess it must be one of the first things to degrade and fall off - it would stop that banging sound when the flap is open/closed fully. Something to remember when doing the next one

You can take an interior light feed from the cigarette lighter socket or any of the dash bulbs. The glove boxlight is also permanently live with ignition on, so it depends on when you want them to come on. LEDs will usually have a small ballast or resistor pack with them, so check that this comes with your kit.

Sticky backed felt from an arts/hobby supply shop was what I used as well, some others have used adhesive foil tape - but you need it to be slightly porous. It really does need to come out for you to take it apart though - buy you can leave the cables attached as you remove it and take the control dials and the heater box out as a unit, if you are worried about the cables. It will make it easier to see how it works and goes back together.

Hmm - yeah, MAF is really only used for hot running when the full ECU map kicks in - I'd be looking for vacuum leaks and leaky injectors first for cold running issues.