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I think the pressure is holding fine - I went through all this testing about 4 yrs ago and the results were pretty similar to yours - I do remember the NRV making a big difference to the residual pressure.

When you say "crank sensor", do you mean the cps at the front bottom of the engine? The other component I ended up replacing was the cam (hall) sensor, for my car it came with a new dizzy, but on the coil pack cars it is a seperate part - worth checking. The issue is often that there are numerous sensors that have to work in tandem with the ECU to get everything as normal, and an incorrect or intermittent reading from one of them can throw things out.

I had this - long cranking when cold and warm, and the non-return valve fixed it for me, would definitely recommend it anyway. As far as I know, this was actually a recall at one stage, and you will come across a number of cars with the valve retrofitted by the dealer with an official VAG part number.

Is the issue that the drain section can't be removed or that the old cap is in 3 parts?

Any of the other standard VAG alloys of the time - Passat/Golf/Vento, Mk2/Mk3 - 5 stud or 4 stud? Original wheels were 15". They are not really that hard to find, plenty online and at breakers - German fleaBay always has a big selection.

Welcome to the forum - tell us more and some pictures as well please. Probably not too many Corrados in Greece.....

The letter suffix can indicate either a different variation of the part for a different car/engine, or a supercession - generally though a superceded part would have it noted in the VAG parts database. 021906265A is listed as the correct part for the 2E engine, the B variation is listed for the Golf/Vento, so hard to say if it would be correct but it might work, but you would have to take a punt on it. Is there a part number on your old one? It might also be worth getting in touch with a Bosch distributor to check.

You need an uprated headlight loom and something like Osram nightbreaker bulbs. This would be a pretty standard solution for most okder VAG cars which all suffer from this problem. You can relay just the low beams, or the high beams as well - and it's easier if you use original connectors, ideally the more relays the better so that each side has it's own relay for fault tolerance - so look for 3 or 4 relay options. There's usually a few options available on eBay and the web if you search for "Corrado" and "headlgiht loom". There is also an intermittend group by organised on this forum or on the FB pages for loom upgrades made to a very high standard by a member (kurzy is the user name I think?). Try a search on here and it should throw up one of the more recen threads.

You can buy new replacements - no need to restore - if search on the part number a few options will come up. The resistor is an easy fix and pretty well documented on here and elsewhere. I'm not sure if the bearings for the fan or the coil windings are servicable on these - in theory they should be.

It works fine for me on Win7 64-bit with Mozilla 115.0,3 (Firefox) - I can select a long multi-page thread and click on Next or the page number and it take me to the selection, the page number is displayed in the URL. This must be browser specific. There is an issue with old archived threads in search results - these don't work because they are not properly indexed.

Do you have the release keys for the Gamma? You could try inserting them on both sides so tha the locking tabs are flush and then take them off once it is in. It's very strange that it won't fit, there has to be some kind of obstruction. Most other period unit (cassette or CD) will be the same length.

Easy enough - there was a post here about wiper arm grommets that had the info. The whole thing will come out with the motor and linkages attached - it's much easier to remove everything with it off the car. - remove all trim - unplug wiper motor - remove wiper stalks (you may need a puller to help with that if they are on tight) - undo bolt that the wiper linkage support to the bulkhead near the motor - then undo the two large flat spindle arm nuts (I think 22 ro 32 mm, need a deep socket) from the outside, these are the only things holding the whole assembly in - after that you should be able to pop the spindles through the holes in the bulkhead and maneuver the whole thing out very carefully A bit more infr here: http://the-corrado.net/topic/87819-order-of-washers-for-windscreen-wiper-spindle/

When you say it does not fit, what do you mean? Any pictures of the problem? The Gamma IV was standard fit for Corrado in Europe, I have one and several other members here as well, and on the FB page do too, without any problems. It definitely fits all years of Corrado. The space for a radio is standard singe DIN sized, so should take any model with that specification. The size would not have changed over the years. What you may have is an aftermarket unit that has an internal cage fitted that reduces the size of the aperature - would be worth checking this and seeing if it can be removed if there is one. Also worth checking that there is no excess wiring bunched up at the back.

Old thread and not really Corrado related - but if you are interested, go and see it and take it for a test drive.

I think it is meant to be read as the 506 being the replacement for the 506A. It's a bit of a minefield really - is it worth doing a poll of other late cars that had AC installed to see what they have? The E certainly just seems to be for other engine types. The other thing to bear in mind is that no UK cars had factory air conditioning installed, they were always a dealer retrofit - so did they replace the fan conrol unit with the correct one, or simply use the existing standard VR6 one and maybe change the wiring? Hard to know.

Only seems to show two different versions for the ABV engined cars - with air con or without

The AC cars would have had a different fan control module installed, with an extra stage, and there would be additional wiring. There is also a different third temperature sensor in the thermostat housing for AC cars - I forget the colour, but it would be 4 pin.

That's normal behaviour - remember it's a car desgined in the mid '80s, so no self opening tailgates - hell, there's not even a gas strut on the bonnet.If you try lifting the tailgate with no struts installed and consider the angles involved you'll see why.

They all seem to be like that - I’m beginning to suspect it may even be a trick they learned in the factory….. Reason I say this is I’ve seen a good few cars where the etchings and codes on the windscreen matched all the windows, so still original, and there was still silicon used. Where did you get the two mounting screws? Was it Classic Parts?

Was that inlet elbow designed for the Corrado? Most of the ones I've seen are for the AAA VR6 in the Mk3 Golf, and don't fit properly or foul the strut tower when fitted into the Corrado engine bay. I guess if everything else lines up, get it shortened to match what is ther eat the moment. Probably not something to do at home and worth going to a machine shop for unless you are set up to do it yourself.

Think they are just a GPS unit with a SIM installed that you can conceal within a valuable item and send it's location back to the coud, same as "find my whatsit" feature. They are quite large for what they are, and the differrence with a tracker is that it would probably be powered off the vehicle battery with a backup in the unit. It's easy to use a scanner to detect a 2/3/4G or GPRS emitter though, so really depends on what kind of thives you are up against - would easily locate a car stolen for a joy ride or before it was prepped for resale or stripping.

A lot of the info is still here if you search. If you use the advanced options it's pretty powerful. Any photos or pictures that were hosted externally are likely gone though - that's not to do with the forum, but with the hosting sites. Some old links are dead, and sometimes a link to an older topic in the archive doesn't work, but I'm not sure what can be done about that.

A really fexible and sharp putty knife can work, if you get it in at the top - just be really careful not to put any pressure at all on the windscreen, bearing in mind that the bottom of the screen will be hidden under the top of the trim. If you can thread it through to the other side, a thin guitar string or some cheese wire could work too.

Wurth sell black plastic dye and trim restorer that comes in a big tub (a bit like grease) and this has always worked pretty well for me - a thorough wash and then a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol has usually worked for me before applying the restorer. I went for the SWG in satin black, and think it works great - but I've kept my old trims along with new replacement clips in case I ever want to go back as well. Had a complete nightmare getting them off.

I'd strongly recommend opting for a one piece cover - something like the SWG motorsport one. Easier to put on and remove if you need to do work underneath the scuttle or replace the scren - the 3 piece trim with the clips is very hard to get on or off without damage to the clips or the trim, hence there's often sealant underneath, which is a right pain to remove. I guess if you want to keep it all original, it's worth the hassle. Did you end up buying some of the 3D printed clips? The trim itself is long NLA as far as I know.