V33DUB

Love the top wheels but think they'll look better on the darker colours. Last ones could suit the red I reckon

might give you some idea... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=83904

After receiving my second hand wheels, knowing that the lacquer was in need of removing I posted on here for some advice Thread here. Thanks to all that replied, especially fla. I removed the lacquer with Nitromourse. One coat got most off with a second getting the stubborn remainder off. There was quite a bit of corrosion underneath on the metal itself as you can see, and so, with advice noted, I set about them with 600grit wet & dry. After a fair few hours work, spread across more than one weekend I have these: My plan is to now, finish a couple of spots off with wet & dry and then polish the lip and rim. As for the spokes, I quite like the 'brushed alloy' look of them as they are now, but dunno for sure yet. The black paint needs touching up in places also and was gonna look into maybe a different colour entirely? Need to search t'internet for some pics me thinks!

After having a look at what was about I decided on clear and red rears. Bought some second hand off unclemonty on here. Chrome was corroded quite a bit (knew this when I bought them I hasten to add). Gave them a good clean and pondered.... then I saw samthegram's Twilight rado and was really diggin his rears with the chrome sprayed black. A lot of advice later from Sam (appreciated mate!) and... The edges aren't of the mastery of someone more experienced but you have to get pretty close to notice and it's all a learning curve. Very happy with the result! Quick how to for someone of my low knowledge who may be looking to do them... Sanded the exterior chrome off with wet and dry 600grit (used dry) Masked up the lens that I didn't want to spray (i.e. the bit that isn't now black) with masking tape. Used a craft knife and the steadiest hand I had available to remove some tape and curve the corners. Masked off the rear of the clusters with newspaper and more tape so no paint got into the inside Sprayed with grey primer - one coat... thin as I could do. Left for a day to totally dry. It was quick drying primer anyway but hey ho Sprayed with matt black paint - one coat, again thin as I could get it. Left for another day and quick touch up spray of bits that needed it. Left for a couple of days and carefully removed the masking tape and paper from rear. My masking wasn't brilliant and so there was some little bits where the paint had got under the tape. With an old blunt craft knife I lightly and very carefully scraped this off. The edged has also got some masking tape fibres in here and there which I removed with the craft knife as well. Maybe the very edge would be better masked off with some other kind of tape? Someone with better knowledge would know more than me there. Job done!

Would like the part number for this also. Any ideas?

Cheers for all the advice guys! I have removed the lacquer and wet & dryed them with 600grit to remove all the blemishes underneath the failed lacquer. They now look like brushed alloy. Cheers for the heads up on the polishing shop fla I now have my heart set on polishing the lip and dish. As the spokes curve in polishing the dish will be impossible I'd have thought with a mop so will the Standard Polishing Kit on this page: http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... _Kits.html with the felts be the right way to go? Will I need to further wet & dry with finer grades before starting the polishing process or will the 600grit finish be ok? Thanks once again

I have tried 4 times now to remove my handbrake handle and have walked away each time before I lost my rag and hit something close at hand that'd most likely be fragile and a big mistake. I've pressed the little tab thing with about 10 different implements at differing forces ranging from firm to "I'm gonna break something in a minute", I've pulled, twisted, yanked... even enlisted the help of another to push the button while I pulled... it didn't move a muscle. Any tips for removal or is it time to source a replacement and get the hacksaw out :mad2:

like me, for example! TT comps have a large alloy area but i use Alu Belgom which is really superb at keeping the shine and keeping corrosion at bay, even during the winter. Its about £15 per bottle, but last absolutly ages. So if I was to use this, would you recommend wet and dry, nitromourse or both to prepare the surface first? Cheers for the heads up on the Alu Belgom :wink:

They were on ebay yeah but not on a passat... weren't on any car... got em from Germany. Dish looks bigger than it is on them photos.. still pretty dished... a lot like ATS cups they are

Cheers guys, not sure whether they are diamond cut or not as I've no idea what that is :oops: Was thinking I may polish the dish/rim part? Dunno how this will stand up against the elements though? Here is the pic:

Hi guys, My new (second hand) wheels arrived today and the lacquer is coming off (which I knew about). The wheels other than that are in pretty sound condition. I'm not looking to get them perfectly finished but would like to remove this peeling lacquer and re-lacquer if possible. My question is how? I have searched and found posts about refurbing but, as I said, I don't wanna go back to the start and mirror polish or spray them, just remove the lacquer and reapply. Nitromourse? Wet and Dry? Can you buy lacquer in a can? Any help appreciated.

Was this the same crystal rear lighted one you saw in Shirley? I live in knowle and am regularly around knowle/solihull/shirley and never seen this'un

Before I got mine and looking at sales since it seems a lot of private and trade sellers are over pricing their cars or at least at the top end of their value as they know the buyers will haggle. I know buyers always have haggled but we're constantly being told that its currently a buyers market for almost anything and everything so people kinda expect a deal now. Just like the dealers have added £££ on to new cars to compensate the scrappage p/x, it seems to me that the independents and private sellers have added £££ on to theirs knowing the buyers are after a deal... if ur car is worth roughly X and u add £800 on to ur asking price and a buyer comes and offers £500 under ur asking price, they think they're gettin a deal and u've got an extra £200. Obviously there are much more if's and but's like knowledgeable buyers, personal circumstances etc etc blah blah.

For how many people? Just you? or £200 each?

Are the cars p/x'd as scrappage not even allowed to be broken then? I thought they were just not allowed to be put back on the road as 'a car'??

Just to update this thread with another windscreen direction problem... My hot/cold and speed dials worked fine but my direction dial would go on windscreen (10 o'clock) and then the dial would go between 10o'clock and 7 o'clock fine, but felt no resistance going to 4 o'clock and wouldn't go round to 1 o'clock at all (pardon the clock references but cant remember the positions of the top of my head!) Anyway, long story short as the info needed for removal of the unit is all on the forum already... Once I had the control pulled out of the dash I could see that when turning the direction dial to windscreen, the top arm moved the cable to the right fine but the bottom arm moved slightly then kinda popped back. When moving the direction dial anticlockwise the top arm moved back fine but again the bottom arm/wire did bugger all and then the dial became unmovable at 4o'clock. I unhooked the bowden cables and the clips holding them in place and took the unit out completely. I found that there was some loose broken plastic rattling around which upon inspection matched the top cog.... put 2 and 2 together an worked out that my bottom cog was broken in some form, meaning the lower arm was not doing what it should. With the unit out and the cables unattached the bottom arm had more 'play' and would move to the right but still not brilliant. I worked out that to get the windscreen set up correct, both arms should be over to the right. I refitted the unit and manually pushed the lower bowden cable arm as far as it would go to the right (the position it wouldn't get to by turning the dial). You may have to fiddle a little with the knob at the same time i.e. move to another setting other than window but somehow it will get there without much force (I dunno what will happen if you do force it but I'd suggest you don't! Fiddle and it will get there!) Once that was in place I set the dial to windscreen and the top arm moved to the right as before. HURRAY! I have air coming through my windscreen vents and upon a quick drive hot air as well. Hot/Cold and speeds all still work. Now this is a temporary fix or at least not a complete fix as if the direction dial is turned, I assume the bottom cable will return to the left but not go back to the right when turned clockwise again... it's basically 'stuck' on windscreen. I still have air coming out my dash vents via the manual dials next to each of them and to be honest my heaters are pretty good so even on windscreen only the car heats up quickly enough. The main purpose of having a go at this was to get the windscreen to work as demisting is pretty essential in this country, especially with the winter months closing in.

From what I've read there isn't much available and most performance mods that are available cost more than I personally can justify for the power increase. Read a post on here about cams someone recommended... bout £250-£300 I think. All really depends on how flush u are but I don't think the power increase was blinding tbh. The 8v isn't shit off a shovel but then I don't think it was ever meant to be. I love mine. It does what I want it to. Bit like Ronseal! If I put my foot down, it moves, I'm not in a race on my daily commute (well maybe sometimes in my head! haha). It's smooth on the motorway and will potter around town at 30mph happily. Not boringly slow (but then I suppose that depends on how much speed your used to).

Only ever seen a blue Storm around Shirley... anyone know who's that is?

Notices Stealth Racing gettin the thumbs up but that was back in 03... anyone tell me if they're still on the same level? Also, recommendations on any other garages in the west midlands/ warwickshire area? Cheers

Anyone got a part number for this? From lookin on vagcat I think it is 032121142 but not 100% sure? cheers

Cheers... will bell them tomorra.

Hi, Upon opening my airbox (8 valve) I managed to 'ping' the circlip into outer space never to be seen again. I think it held in some sort of sensor on the side of the box? Hopefully someone will know what I'm talking about?? Where can I get a new one from? As I don't have the old one any more I don't even know the size so any info would be appreciated. Also, it felt metal but the generic packs of circlips I've seen have been plastic? Cheers Jon

cheers guys!

Couldn't find this info on a search.... I know the trim was different in early and late spec, but can someone tell me if the actual shape of the seats, particularly the bolsters is the same for the front seats? Basically can I use an early spec bolster in a late spec seat? Thankyou kindly :wink:

I saw some shocks for the 8v Corrado listed as GTI (i.e said it fitted VR6, 16V & GTI... and I had already selected as Corrado specific not just VW or all cars etc so it was listing the Corrado fitments) and the 8v engine is the same as the 8v mk3 golf 'GTI' and there was limited numbers of the 8v Rado made... long shot but could be why? And as for Karmann... seen loads of sellers list Corrado's with Karmann in the title or description as if they are different to the rest... maybe they just don't know much about them and see the badge inside and think 'must be special edition!'??'