V33DUB

Cheers for the info... I did read about the condensation thing, especially over winter. The car is a daily but essentially short journeys (10 miles or so a day Mon-Fri). Coolant is fine. Will order some oil today and get the drain and refil done.... see how we go from there. :wink:

Hi all, I have a small amount of mayo on my dipstick and a large amount of coffee coloured gunk on my filler cap... After checking the oil level today (ashamed to say I have never done this since buying the car in Sept :eek: ) It's below the minimum. My coolant was flushed and refilled about 2 months ago and hasn't dropped at all since. This would have dropped if my head gasket had gone no? Other info that may or may not be of use is that my oil cooler is leaking at the seal and my rocker cover is leaking (got both parts to do). Anyone tell me where to start and also if I should be driving the car? Cheers

After further inspection and driving it I walked away. Little niggling things have started to go wrong and the exhaust was so boomy and chav like I really couldn't wait to get out of it. Plus they were very particular about it being a "trade sale, sold as seen, no idea what it'd need for an MOT and don't want the hassle of finding out". Anyways, that 500 would be better spent on the corrado me thinks. :D Cheers for the advise though anyways people. And as for my head corozin, I can't find an inspector who'll touch it! :nuts:

Don't believe my column is adjustable? How do I get the top cowling off? Cheers

I've been offered one for a monkey, trade sale no comeback. Not the cleanest but not a dog either to look at. Only advisory on last MOT was "Steering rack damaged but serviceable". That has been an advisory for the last 3 years it would seem as well. Needs an MOT now though as it ran out in Jan. Is it worth taking the risk of £500 to drive for a few months and sell on? In 2 minds at the moment.

I couldn't work out how to get the top steering cowl off and after much frustration already I decided it was best not to force it, deep breathe and walk away! haha On my return I managed to get the screw out from underneath (it really is all about the angle but its so precise its unreal!!). However, this then came out, dropped, and slid down between the shaft and its outer casing. Nice. I put the new switch in which then covered the access to the screw hole but it clicked in sturdy enough so I've just left it at that and put all back together.

As far as I can see this is the only access to the screw. Unlike some other pics I've seen, there is no hole in the below or above housing... the screw is completely sealed off until you remove the top half of the switch.

So I started this 4 hours ago. Spent 2 of them trying to locate the screw to no avail. Then saw red and pulled the visible half of the switch off. This then revealed the screw... I tried with ever possible screwdriver I could find and bend and saw red again, hammered a screwdriver through the plastic and pulled out the bottom half of the switch. I now have this... The only way to get to the screw without taking apart all that is around it is this right here. The angle is tight against the black shaft and the screw seems to be in pretty tight. Anyone got any ideas how to remove the scre as I'm kinda tired of breaking screwdrivers trying to get this :censored: out. Will the switch stay in place without it? I'm thinking just break off the plastic tab for the screw off of the new switch and just plug it in?? Please help as at the moment I wanna take my sledgehammer to the whole :censored: thing

Not really.... golf and the corrado are different cars to drive. I love tootling round town in my 8v. Better driving position than the golf and generally just feels comfier. Not everyone can afford the insurance and running costs of a super duper tuned VR6... don't get me wrong, I'd love one but at the moment my 8v serves it purpose much better than a golf would. Personal preference I suppose.

I've got a second hand KW spring and shock set. I want to replace the top self-locking nut, the bearing and the bottom securing nut and bolt. I take it these are VW parts rather than KW.... is the KW kit literally just the shocks and springs... top mounts, etc are all VW still? These are the parts for the VW equipment... can anyone tell me if these are correct? N 0221501 - hexagon nut, self-locking M14X1,5 1J0412249 - axial grooved ball bearing N 10174002 - hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder BM12X1,5X58 / N 90323704 - nut

Random, but does anyone have a metal taped dymo machine? Need a few labels, metal embossed style. Mine will only do the plastic tape :( Cheers

Head unit is working now but the CD changer isn't... gonna investigate this orange wire as its currently redundant and the head unit works so could be something to do with the CD Changer. there is a separate wire from the head unit to the changer but... time will tell. Cheers for the help so far :wink:

The videos on the redvictor1racing.co.uk site are priceless! 13seconds into the 7.6 Second Santa Pod one, just after he's warmed up his tyres in a cloud of smoke... you can hear one of the crowd go "that's road legal?!" in a very Paddy McGuinness, Gregg's advert voice. Hilarious! And the fifth gear one... car rips down the strip in 8 seconds, gets back to the top and then you hear Andy speak in his down to earth, black country tone "what d'you reckon to that then?" Love it!

Might help... From another thread

My engine bay is filthy and in need of some TLC. As well as cleaning up and replacing some bits and bobs I was wondering if anyone had any experience of these kits? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120528792991&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT or done something similar sourcing the parts elsewhere?

After looking on the net to find out what coloured wires in the block relate to which coloured wires in the loom, it seems that on the black (power block) they don't match up and therefore the new loom doesn't work :mad2: For the life of my I cant see how to get the wires out of the connector block? Can someone please put me out of my misery. :confused4:

Hi All! I'm even more useless with wiring than mechanics so I've drawn the loom in my own simple terms below. My problem is that the head unit loom in my car is shagged, butchered and needs replacing. I've bought a new loom which looks fine, all the colours and connection points are in the right places, however my old/current loom has some extra features that I'm not sure the function of and if I need them.... please see pic The left hand side with the speaker wires is fine. It's the right hand side I'm puzzled with! My new loom just has the wires straight from block to block, nice and easy. My current loom has the red (ignition switch) and yellow (battery) wire all joined up, fused and something else I'm not sure of (see pic 2 below). Can I just fit the new straight forward loom and drive away problem free or do I need to incorporate this connection and fusing of the ignition and battery wires? And what the hell is the big box in pic 2?? Cheers for any help!

Hi all, At some point soon when the dryer warmer weather appears I'm going to change my heater matrix. Loads of info and instructions for that so it's all good. What I'd like opinions / advice on is while I have the dash out, is there anything else that's likely to need replacing? Any mods worth doing? So far I'm thinking... Heater Matrix - Veleo? Heater Blower Motor - Will this need doing? I mean its working ok now but assuming its the original unit is it worth replacing it? Ignition Switch Is there any foam stuff that's worth doing? Insulation and/or sound proofing stuff. My blowers currently blow out all sorts of foam stuff at the moment so I assume something has perished! Any idea, thought welcome... regardless of cost... I can work out what I can afford / prioritize when I have some thoughts from people who've done this. Cheers

I'm not in the know enough to know what throwing 10k at a corrado would produce but it it meant most important parts were new/refurbished/replaced and rust proofed... basically bought back close to leaving the factory along with any little mods you want to make along the way then I'd keep the corrado. A newer car may have more gadgets, safety features and what not and the corrado I doubt could ever live up to that but if its the car you love above any other in the price bracket and £10k makes it as you want it, built to last, reliable as possible, for another 10 years then... go for it! Do a pros and cons sheet. 2 columns. The ultimate decision tool!!

thought of this today after receiving multiple jokes from my mate at Toyota :D

I did give this a half hearted attempt before posting but it just moves back to its original position... plus a slack accelerator cable is bad isn't it?

Short video took on my phone...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4wYn7AhwTE

Hi! While replacing my wiper mechanism I noticed that it rubs on a cable when in motion (think it's the accelerator cable?). It has also started making a pulsing sensation on the accelerator peddle when the wipers are on. I'm guessing this is related to the mech rubbing? How do I stop this??

Always liked Dark Burgundy Pearl and it seems to be a desireable colour. Aqua Blue is one of the nicest blues on a car imo. Pearl Grey always seemed to be a desireable colour on the MK2 Golf and I think it looks just as good on the Corrado. Twilight Violet ftw though.

thanks a lot people, exactly what I wanted to know. Hope it's dry this weekend :roll: