Graphite

Cheers got your PM, good to know they aren't backwards compatible.

I'm not sure mate as they have different heater controls. Best to ask in the interior section of the forum...

Hi all, I have the following parts for sale, they are from an early interior. Everything is including postage and packaging. Dash centre console, has some stuff stuck in the bottom of the cubby hole, £7 [sold] Tunnel trim, £10 Shifter gaiter surround with leather gaiter, £8 [sold] Dash speaker covers, bit battered and dusty but good if you have one missing, £5 for both Driver side footwell trim (one that fits around the bonnet release lever), £8 Clock Binnacle, £6 Dash vents, £7 Glovebox trim (runs along the bottom), £5 Heater slider trim, x2 £5 each Map light, £5 ABS light £10 Cig lighter, trim and lighter itself x2 £8 each Vent insert passenger side, £4 Vent insert centre console, right hand one £4 Drivers doorcard window switch £10 Electric mirror joystick, £8 Heated r/window switch x2 £8 each Fog light switch x2 £8 each Headlight switch £15 Passenger side vent complete £8 Drivers side vent complete £10 Ash tray x2 £5 each

You can also see on my mates thread a bit closer in one of the pictures of how the rack attatches to the car at the front end. I now own that shell :) http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?42986-my-g60-finally-started-on-it-bare-shell-rebuild/page2

Speedhunters.com is my fave. Great selection of euro, jap, drag, F1, Drivers, Drift... What more could you want?

The G60 is reliable depending on its history. If you can find one that has been well looked after and hasnt been fiddled with then you will be okay. The superchargers, or G-lader if you want to be correct do need refurbishing every now and then. If you get the G-lader ported to stage 4 for example to allow more air flow then the service interval does come down to around every 15-20K. My G60 has had alot of money spent on it (10K+ in the three years I've owned it) but that because I've had to repair what the previous owner did wrong (no Gbox oil for example so the gearbox exploded after 15k miles). But now I have replaced alot of the old parts its fairly reliable. You will have to spend alot of money either way with a corrado to be honest. If you're looking for power theres no point point in buying a standard 1.8 16v, by the time you've spent money on a gas flowed head, cams, 4 branch, exhaust and a remap you could have bought a decent G60 or VR. Plus to supercharge a high compression block/head such as the KR 1.8 16v you'd need to buy new pistons to reliably lower the compression ratio... That would end up costing just as much. If I could go back and re-do buying my Corrado I would have held out and got a bit more cash together and bought a decent one that didn't break every 5 mins at first. Saved the money I have spent on repairing it and purchased upgrades to make it better...

I have one, very good condition £10 posted. PM me if you want it. troy.

Hi All, I'm in desparate need of a spare ECU for my G60. Preferably with no chips etc... Please let me know how much you would want including the price for next day recorded delivery. Cheers, Troy.

I saw your car in John's workshop before you did Stru! I have to say it was looking fantastic... I have some piccys from when I went down to have my new box and coilies fitted. Ill post them up tomorrow! Troy.

Hi All, I'm looking for a set of hubcentric adapters for my rado. I'm looking to fit 4x100 wheels to my 5x100 hubs. The spacing ideally needs to be between 10-20 mm. Let me know what you have. Cheers, Troy.

I have no access to an email account at the moment as my web hosting is down. Can you upload them to the forum?

Thats awesome, that will certainly be helpful.. It mentions a speed signal relay junction behind the relay panel. Anyone have any idea what this looks like? This is helping a bunch guys!

What type of battery? Car battery 12v or something else?

What condition are they in, Im interested in the splitter and the indicators if you have both. Any pics if possible?, Troy.

Hi all, After getting my raddo so close now to how I want it I am finally getting round to tackling the whole spoiler issue. My spoiler currently only goes up on the switch so I think the motor is probably shot on the retract side of things. I have a spare motor which I am going to fit and check if it then goes up and down on the switch again. I have tried several spoiler control modules and switches from other cars in which they worked. I have also bought a set of clocks which came from a car in which the spoiler worked. If it does I want to investigate further... My rado is a cross over J reg, so 1991 and I have a few questions. Am I right in saying that the speedo sensor is an electronic signal (i.e it is converted to a digital impulse before it reaches the clocks)? If so, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the whole spoiler circuitry? If the clocks and the control modules both have been ruled out, where is the fault likely to lie. Is it pre or post control module? Are there any earths hidden away on the system that could be incorrectly grounding preventing it from working correctly? I know this has been done to death but I can't find the answers to these questions from what I have read. Help would be greatly appreciated. Troy.

Hi all, I'm after: 50mm Front Splitter (in okay condition, doesnt have to be a minter) Side repeaters (in either orange or clear) Front bumper indicators. Let me know what you have and piccies will be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Troy.

Its an option I'm considering, obviosuly the main issue is colour can look very different in a photograph. I would guess I would have to make up some swatches I can post out to people to choose or they come down in person. Getting close to wings now. I have been hinderd by not being able to find a suitable workspace and I am having to travel to work on this project.

Progress is slow as I have changed job twice since this started as an idea. Ordering the materials to mould the front wings, late style, no indicator holes next week. I should be able to pull the first sets in late January... I am going to be doing this on my days off as I will have to travel 50 miles to the work space. Delivery time would be 3 weeks approx, depending on if I get more than one order in at once.

You can get adaptors made up to your specifications, I don't have a contact number for anyone but I'm sure someone will. I converted my G60 to 5 stud and it was a pain, I needed the Vr6 CV's because the splines are different on the driveshafts (i think, don't quote me though) I wouldn't drill the disks, I would get some VR6 calipers, carriers and disks. I'd rather have a solid setup than anything else.

I bought all the gear for my G60 (a bit more involved, I had to get new drive shafts and everything) but for some reason we couldn't find the right hoses, the banjos were wrong for my car so I had to have them made up at hoses-direct in Harworth, Nottinghamshire. Nice braided ones, as good quality as Goodridge. Let me know if you need some cables making up and I'll give you their number.

The fuse box is held in a sort of hook, you should be able to push up on the bottom of the fuse box and then pull it toward you. The cables arent long though so I doubt you'll get much better access plus it is a pig to put back in.

Waxed the whole car over in preparation for the salt, even waxed the dishes on my wheels... I stood back after three hours of washing and polishing and I literally stood there for 5 mins admiring it. I've had a two 6 month stints of not using my G60 in the two years I've owed it. Every time I get back in it for the first time it makes me smile like mad.

As Slim said, Rebuild the charger and up-rate to stage 4. I have a 68mm pulley with the SNS chip and its just about right. As you mentioned use JMR. John is a great bloke and his service and the work he carries out are top notch. I've had rebuilds done by Jabba and G-werks in the past but last time I was recommended JMR and the charger came back looking a lot better than when I had it done by the others. John has a 16v G60 and I'm sure he could also advise you on what pulley/chip would be best, he knows his stuff. I won't be sending my charger any where else in the future.

BBM no longer make the Lysholm Kit for the G60. Your only option is to get a 1.2lt model direct from lysholm themselves but you will have to make the brackets and inlets made up. The BBM units had a tendency to lock up and destroy themselves so I heard anyway. G-werks also went bust recently so no hope of getting any stock from them either.

My Stern "Face II" Reverse...