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Price dropped on shell and included parts to £2500

Unfortunately yes. Very busy today so will update thread in full tomorrow.

I replied in your other thread, which cointains less information. Those values look within reason. You have over a bar of pressure at 800 rpm from the low pressure switch (on the side of the clyinder head?) which is good. My suggestion would be now you've replaced the switches to check the wiring. Its highly possible that one of the wires could be broken or have corrosion from water that has been drawn inside the sheathing by capilliary action.

From cold start up at idle its common to see 5+ bar. But if you're reading much more than that I would investigate. Once at 80 degrees oil temp at idle you should have at least 1 Bar, if you have more than 2 you either have a high idle (1200+) or the relief valve in the pump may not be working. Once at 80 degrees increasing the engine speed should cause an proportinal increase in oil pressure but at higher RPM when hot if you're getting excessive pressure (8 bar plus) I would start to ask questions personally.

A lot of them are for the water system. I will have a dig through and see if I can find any appropriate for the fuel system. How much for the lot? What everything I have for sale! Lol. I presume you mean all the fuel system ones if I can find them? Troy.

Oh okay I see. Yes if rolo only wants the glasses then I can reduce the price and charge you for the rest. I’ll confirm with rolo and come back to you.

The lenses have been spray tinted. I would rather sell the headlamps as a pair but if it helps you I can remove the tinting for you prior to posting.

Hi Neil, yes you can. I’m out at the moment so I’ll pm you when I get in. Troy.

£8 posted for the 10. I'll get you some pics shortly.

No, but they were in EXTREMELY good conditon, there are no broken tines and they are not pitted. If you would like I can PM you some better closeups.

I figured they would be the first to go. £7 posted for a plated battery clamp. I'll see if I have the right bolt to go with it too. Can you PM me for payment details and address please.

Yes they're both drivers side. Please PM me and I'll discuss payment details there to avoid cluttering the thread :)

Lots of plated parts and fixings. Including front top mount hats, rear brake hose supporting brackets, g60/16v ignition coil bracket, rear axle hand brake cable retaining clips, brake compensator bracket, G60/16v power steering pump bracket, boot latch, original exhaust heat shield retaining clips, bonnet pins, battery clamps, g60 dizzy retaining fork, bottom ball joint retaining plates etc Please ask for prices and if you spot anything please ask. 2x Powdercoated G60 front engine mount brackets. £40 each Spoiler mechanism. £50 Good condition blue washer bottle. £10

Rear light clusters with tinted top halves. £40 Tinted early head lamps. No surrounds but I have all the clips to secure the glass back on the o/s unit. £85 G60 drive shafts. £60 each for complete units, £30 each for incomplete. New Genuine G60 Near Side Inner CV boot kit. £15 - £26 retail from VW. G60 bearing carriers with new wheel bearings, lower ball joints and track rod ends. £100 for the pair. Almost new (150 Miles) G60 track rods, with boots. £12 for the pair. G60 distributor. £45

All carbon panels sold.

Updated a list of included items with the shell. I am open for discussion on pricing on certain components.

Pictures of the more relevant bits.

Depends what you want road or race but I have a pretty major race/fast road project with lots of carbon panels.

After long consideration and a few previous nearlies, I have come to the conclusion to move my long term project on. Some history on the car. Purchased as a rolling shell from a friend, this 1990 G60 had a very good road going life. Very little damage to the shell from rot or accident damage, with one slight ding on the near side rear quarter and a slightly crushed passenger sill. After storing the car for some years I started to work in the indusrty, specialising in the Corrado as some of you will already be aware. Whilst in the occupation, I started to move this project forwards after making good friends with a contact who had a history working for professional racing teams, including the likes of McLaren GT, Audi Sport, etc. After the shell was acid dipped he commenced work on seam welding the chassis to the same specification used in modern BTCC cars, which under torque tests require 10,000+ newtons of force to deflect the shell by 1 mm for end to end, making the shell very stiff therefore very responsive. At the same time, installation of a MSA 2017 regulation compliant welded in rollcage (with main ROPS wall thickness of 2.5mm, manufactured by custom cages) commenced. The cage is complete in terms of main tubing, but cross bars are only tacked in place to allow them to be removed in order to easily complete the car. Both the roll cage and seam welding have been completed using both TIG and MIG processes and is very, very neat. The cage extends from the front turrets, all the way back to the rear turrets and has three cross braces, one in the roof, one in the rear, and one between the driver and rear passenger area. My intention was to produce one of the lightest Corrado's out there and every little peice of metal that was not neccessary has been removed. For example the seat runners are no longer in the car, as they weighed 950g each and there are four of them. I think you get the picture of how far I was looking to go. The roof skin has been removed and I have a carbon fibre replacement to go with the shell and as I was planning a RWD conversion so the rear floor pan has been removed to allow fitment of a lighter carbon panel I was going to make from carbon sheeting. So far as an estimation I would say 100kg has been removed from the shell alone. I pretty much got to this point and I came away from the industry for a number of reasons. I have the time, money, patience and tools to finish this car - what I don't have any more is the love for it, there are things I love more. There are so many more important things in my life for the forseeable that deserve the commitment over and above this. So with the story over heres the sales part: 1990 Corrado G60 shell as description above, the shell has caught some surface corrosion, you can remove this by hand but it would be much more cost effective to have it dipped again. Costs: Dipping: £1500 inc vat Seam Welding: £1000 Rollcage parts and manufacture: £1850 Carbon Roofskin: £600 Total: £4950 This will also include, front slam panel, head lamps, grill, two complete doors, rear light clusters, door seals, boot seal, two refurbished powdercoated front hub knuckles, front and rear bumpers. For sale: £2500 With the extra bits thrown in this I feel is a very fair price. Plexiglass windows set for quarter light windows and door windows, including sliding hatches in door windows. £200 16v 9a bottom end with JE low compression pistons for turbo application (9:1). £800 16v 9a gas flowed cylinder head, has all hardware except camshafts. £600 The engine is currently split, but if someone were to want the engine as a complete, ready to go unit, I could complete the build for the cost of the required parts for you. All parts are to be paid for with a non returnable deposit proportionate to their value with an agreed collection date, or payment in full before collection with an agreed collection date. If you pay the deposit, the remainder is cash on collection. I will not be taking deposits to hold parts until paydays etc. I will accept payment by paypal, however if you want the full paypal buyers protection you will have to pay the fees. All parts except where stated are collection only from North Nottinghamshire, but where possible I am willing to travel a part of the way for a contribution to the fuel cost.

My shell is getting sealant so it doesn’t generate any more surface corrosion. Name? How about: Money pit that’s miles from being finished!

It does depend on how far you go. As mentioned you’ve probably had a HC presence test by the sounds of things. If you know you have an issue it is best to sort it out rather than run the car really. To change the gasket you need as a bare minimum: New head gasket New cambelt kit New cylinder head bolts New coolant Probably looking at £100+ (for decent parts) retail cost on those parts depending on where you get them. Labour is always the major part of any bill. You have to bear in mind these jobs on these cars can be lengthened by a number of hours due to old fixings and components that don’t come undone as they should. Valve stem seals and guides do wear on these heads and lead to oil consumption, so as you’re removing the head and are looking to keep the car you might want to consider going to this length if you can afford it. However, as it’s already been mentioned the price of an entirely rebuilt head comes with a higher cost.

No problem [emoji1303] Your thinking is right. You will need the fuel pump in the tank still to feed the high pressure pump. Troy.

The fuel pressure regulator does exactly as you say, it prevents fuel pressure dropping in the K-Jet system to aid in starting the engine. With your 20vt setup it is no longer required and vehicles where the engine is fitted from the factory do not have one. However, you’ll need to keep the high pressure pump in order to supply enough fuel to the injectors on the 20v. The in tank fuel pump will give fuel starvation under load as it won’t flow enough. Troy.

Good stuff. Hope there’s an axle stand under there though! [emoji1303]

Not really [emoji1303]