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I can only imagine he is referring to the damper (a metal/rubber composite donut shaped object) that often wear loose and rub/run/spin on the driveshaft, causing noises and vibrations. No need to replace the shaft, just cut the damper off.

I have a G60 inner/rear/exhaust side bracket. It was shot blasted and given a clear coat. £15 I also have a support bracket that’s been blasted and powdercoated £10 Prices are plus postage or collection in Nottinghamshire.

A few light marks from storage. Includes bush brackets. £50 plus postage.

I did send you a PM I’m sure but there doesn’t seem to be one in my inbox now? Did you get one?

I've PM'd you.

I have one left but it is currently in a door that I’m taking moulds from. Are you in a rush for it? Troy.

It’s definitely not the rad that has cracked? I’ve seen it before where it looks like the elbow has failed but the plastic part of the radiator it seats into has micro fractures in it.

You’ll be able to buy reconditioned/remanufactured items from most motor factors but just a word of warning, they often provide calipers that have subtle differences. Make sure you thoroughly check the units you buy to be sure they’re the same.

This was trimmed by a professional. I’m not sure I understand what angle you’re approaching as there are cars with and without sunroofs. Was your car originally a non sunroof car that has had an aftermarket sunroof fitted? Troy.

That is worth checking out.

Best thing I can think is to get your car own headlining re trimmed. Troy.

Common upgrade for rear calipers are the alloy ones typically fitted to Golf mk4 with solid rear discs (not vented like on the 4motions/r32 and gti) Try looking at HEL hoses. I’m sure they’ll do individual hoses or pairs to meet your requirements.

Those are reasonable figures. But I guess this is before you started to experience what you have described?

You’re more than welcome, we’ve all been there at some point. I have found measurements for the CO pot in particular to be a bit of a here and there thing. I’ve seen cars running perfectly well (using a multiple gas analyser to check CO, HC and Co2) running CO pot values outside of the listed range.

As per description: £50 but collection only, however I am willing to travel and hand over for fuel money. Troy.

Hi Richie, I have PM'd you back. Troy

Your boost guage reads the pressure that is accumulating in the manifold in the period between the inlet valves being open and closed on each cylinder. Given the Supercharger drive ratio is the same both above and below 3500 rpm, your description suggests that above 3500 rpm there is a lot more pressure being generated (over three times more). Logic states that if this were happening, your engine above 3500 rpm is unable to breathe quick enough to consume the incoming boost. As engine RPM increases the valves open and close faster in proportion to engine speed, meaning that it consumes the incoming air at a propotionaly faster rate, however you have to bear in mind that as RPM increases the time that the inlet valves are open for reduces, meaning that the air needs to be forced in quicker, But your supercharger should also be spinning proportionally faster and generating higher boost pressure to account for this. So you will eventually get to a point in the RPM range where A) The supercharger is producing peak boost (the most your unit can actually deliver, this will vary depending on the health of your charger) and B) Your engine can't consume the pressurised air quick enough to stop the boost pressure in the manifold from rising. So there will be a point where the boost will seem to increase faster, usually at higher RPM or full throttle application, especially if your supercharger produces peak boost at an RPM that is higher than the engines ability to consume the air fast enough and starts to plateau. Your boost gauge is reading the pressure from the manifold, between the throttle body and the cylinderhead? If not you need to correct that. I see you're located in sweden, there are many petrol mad volvo owners who have heavily modified their cars in your country (toyoya supra engine conversions etc), see if you can track one of those guys down to find out where you can purchase a good boost gauge in your country. I am tempted to say that your boost gauge is reading incorrectly. So, you seem to loose power and your plugs are fouling also. The plugs fouling and being black is a telltale that the engine is running rich, especially if you have a strong smell of fuel. This is either an issue of over fuelling, or you are loosing spark past 3500 rpm leading to incomplete combustion. There are only a number of things that control fuel on a G60. The chip and ECU The blue ECU engine coolant temperature sender The CO Potentiometer The injectors themselves The fuel pump The wiring between these components. There are only a number of things that control spark: The chip and ECU The hall sender on the distributer The ignition coil The ignition HT leads The spark Plugs The wiring between these components The only other thing that can affect this is the engine timing by the cambelt. But I would expect you to have running issues prior to 3500 rpm that were obvious if you had an issue there. My advice is to start with the basics. Check your cambelt timing (especially if the belt has not been changed in the cars recent history) purely just to eliminate this issue as then you know youre working from a safe basis. I would be tempted to put a stock chip back in the ECU to see if that changed the behaviour of the car. If that doesn't change it you will have to go through the Fuel and spark systems to try and track the problem down. You state you have started to put new vac lines in, however if your engine is idling normally (around 850-900 rpm) then I am doubtful you have a vacuum leak. Hope this helps and keep us updated.

In my experience oil stays in the matrix of the cooler for ages. I've had coolers off a car for months before and even after draining it, next time I turn it upside down more always comes out haha! My advice would to be to do more regular oil changes. If your sump is old, I would be tempetd to take it off and clean the bottom of the inside. If your engine hasn't been rebuilt in the cars recent history you'll more than likely have a build up of silt/small particles residing on the sump pan.

I’ll PM you [emoji1303]

I have for sale a total of 4 window mechs. All will be tested for working motors prior to being shipped. I have 1x UK drivers side and 3x UK passenger side mechanisms. £35 each plus postage. I am happy to ship to USA/Europe but I have tried to quote for shipping in the past and it has usually proven to be expensive. Troy.

Just a few odds and ends I have lying around that I’ve dug out. All parts are plus postage or collection from north Notts. G60 throttle body, complete with working switches. £70 Standard G60 drive pulleys. £5 each. Momo style Steering wheel boss. £10 G60 clocks vac sender for MPG readout etc. £15 G60 standard cam shaft. £25

I may still have this but will have to check for you. The rest of the parts have now gone unfortunately. Troy.

Can you PM me your postal address please and we can go from there.

Unfortunately I am away until this coming Friday, if you can get me your post code I can sort postage costs and payment but can't post until Monday the 25th at the earliest.

Sorry, yes I did and I do still have them.