tony_ack

Now on the bay. Took 6 hours to count all the pieces! and only a couple of small bits missing, which are now on order. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260940796480?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Nothing closer to home? I'm all for travelling for the right car, but that one looks a bit of a punt. I'm quite surprised really about how few cars are about at the moment though. May have seen you around Sheff - saw a Nugget in traffic a few months back - also saw one parked up in Mosborough a couple of weeks ago (looked a bit battered though)

Not heard form you and Willow for a while - still going okay? Slightly jealous of people who have fun commutes now that I'm driving the 'fire engine' Audi diesel.

You will need a gun, but don't need a fancy one to set at 6 deg BTDC as there is a mark on the flywheel at 6 deg. Prepare for a long afternoon cleaning out the inlet - not difficult but just time consuming if you do it properly. You might want to get new gaskets for the inlet manifold and throttle body if you're taking it apart 'Valver' refers to the number of valves and distinguishes it from the standard MK2 GTI (16 versus 8 in the original GTI). Valvers were the top engine in the MK2 until the G60 came along, though when the Corrado was launched it was the least powerful engine (but still more than powerful enough).

The above guide is excellent and I've used it many times, but there are a few more points to consider... 1. Check the throttle cable. When you rev the engine, the throttle should hit a microswitch when returning to idle. On some cars I've seen, the cable is so tight that the microswitch is not triggered when the throttle is released, so the idle valve is not activated. 2. Air leaks can cause problems and any unmetered air entering the engine will affect the idle - in addition to the suggestions above, check the injector seals, and also the bakelite injector inserts. On my old 16v I found that the inserts had pretty much disintegrated meaning there wasn't an airtight seal between the inlet manifold and injectors. The brittle injector seats are actually quite worrying as they're right above the inlet valves - so bits of plastic must have been chewed up by the valves and spat out of the back of the exhaust at some point! The inserts are obsolete, but available at Classic Parts, the seals shoudl still be available from VW. 3. It might sound weird but it's easy to get to near 2.0% CO by tuning by ear, as long as the timing and idle is right (6deg BTDC, or a little more advance if you're running super, and 1000rpm idle). The engine will just sound 'nice'. 4. Also check the wiring to the ISV as well as the temp senders and ISV itself - mine was so old and brittle that three of the wires were broken and the others weren't far behind. 5. The CO adjustment screw is super sensitive - just putting the allen key in can stall the car.

Try a classic policy if the car is garaged and you're over 25. Alternatively, sell the car quickly before you get the SORN reminders, or SORN the car and sell it without tax. Them's the options I'm afraid. The new no insurance, no tax policy was brought in with the best intentions, but now makes buying/selling a car a bit of a ballache.

Okay, it's taken a while to count all the parts... about halfway through so far!! This is going to be listed on Thursday, so if anyone wants before then, let me know! Just saw one go for £765 in very similar condition to mine, so taking into acoount eBay fees and the like, I'll offer it on the forum for £700 ono.

Well, been a slow-ish month for the Corrado. The oil 'leak' was cleaned up and hasn't returned which is good. the battery tray is now finished - in that it should be good enough to at least last until I get a proper repair done. I'm lad I did it when I did, as in another couple of years, it may have been too far gone. I managed to grab a few interior bits off Matt8v which will either replace the last few remaining black bits, or replace some of the more tatty beige interior trim - in theory this should be an easy enough (and non-dirty!) job to do, but in reality I just haven't had time. The bonnet release is completely messed up, but it's not the usual issues. The actual catches work, but the cable is behaving a bit weird. First of all, the cable seems to stick a little when you pop the bonnet open and it doesn't let the catches swing back into position - meaning that when you close the bonnet, it won't close (until you move the catches back into place by hand). I guessed that part of the problem might be that the cable wasn't being routed correctly, or one of the fixings for the cable had come loose, so I dismantled the bonnet release lever to try and see what was going on there. It looks like a little clip may have broken near the lever, so a new one of those may be needed. Luckily I can still open and close the bonnet okay (pulling the cable in the footwell with some mole grips) so I can still drive the car okay. And drive it I can as it is now taxed and insured. I've been out a couple of times in it - it always seems a shame to have to take it back to the garage at night but looking at the weather at the moment, I'm so glad it's tucked away. Another problem that seems to have come back is the starting problem - just before I put the car away, I started having problems starting the car occasionally. I would turn it over but it just would not start, and I would hear a relay clicking from the back of the car (fuel pump area). One possibility was the crank position sensor, so I'm going to replace that to see whether it makes a difference. The only thing I'm worried about is that the car can be fine for a few weeks, and then the problem will strike again when I least expect it, with the potential to leave me stranded - so even if I do change the sensor, I won't be confident driving it for a month or so. The only other thing on my mini-list of things to do is finally replace the leaky PAS pipe - the luid is getting low now so I may as well replace it instead of keep topping it up. I already have the pipe, so just need to get time to do it now.

http://www.dubfreeze.co.uk/index.php Anyone going to this? Slight air-cooled bias but went last year and saw plenty of nice MK1s/MK2 Golfs and Sciroccos. It's a big show to say it's in February with a massive trade hall and auto-jumble. Only saw one other Corrado last year, and it was in the car park!

Came last year for a look around, may be up for the club stand this year if there's room?

key...light?

The 'fitting' for the AC pipes in the pic is the expansion valve - you get the same (or similar) expansion valve on the MK4 ducting - I am pretty sure that your existing pipes will fit. The ducting on the MK4 does fit BUT you will either need to drill new holes in the bulkhead for the securing studs, or find some other way of holding it in place. Also, the windscreen vent does not fit perfectly onto the MK4 ducting, so you will need to make a seal for that. Also, I don't know if the hole for the AC pipes will line up or not. Again this is all for RHD, LHD may be different. I don't know whether the controller fits the early dash easily, but I have seen pics of the controller in an early dash on VW Vortex, so it can be made to fit. It lines up perfectly in the later dash.

That is the MK4-era setup that is on the MK4 Golf and B5 Passat. All of the A4 platform cars use the same heaterbox and ducting, but I think the B5 stuff may be different (it could fit better OR worse - I don't know). The Golf and B5 Passat share the same control panel, and it is interchangeable with the one on the Octavia and Leon. It does work but it is a fair amount of work. The physical install is the hardest bit I found - the wiring wasn't too bad to be honest but I haven't done the A/C as my car did not have it to begin with. My progress is in here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?53635-Ant-s-VR6-The-search-for-rust-continues&p=733298&viewfull=1#post733298

The 35I setups I'm aware of use vacuum flaps, but they may have changed through the production run - I don't know. Tony (tonedef) is the guy to speak to about the Passat 35I setup as he has this in his car, I and a few others can help out if you go for the MK4 Golf-type (electric) setup. The Passat ducting is the best fit on RHD cars but not sure if there would be any differences on LHD models. The issue with the MK4 ducting on a Corrado is that the securing holes are in the wrong place so you would have to either drill new holes or find some other way of securing it, and also on a RHD the ABS pump gets in the way of the piping from the expansion valve. The pros of the MK4 system is that the panel is a nicer fit in the dash and you can match the OEM backlighting if you get the panel out of an Octavia. The main problem with the Passat system is that in the UK at least it is hard to get hold of now as there aren't many Passat 35is on the road (and few of them had Climatronic), but it may be more common on the continent.

Mines on 222k and never had a rebuild, though FVWSH until 170k - probably about 4 or 5bhp down on where it should be. Still pulls amazingly well, gearbox and running gear is fine. Body is fine other than a couple of small issues, though paint is a bit of a patchwork quilt!

Okay, can do £45 delivered - but won't be able to get them out until next week. They were removed in September 2011: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?53635-Ant-s-VR6-The-search-for-rust-continues&p=745814&viewfull=1#post745814 Paypal is fine, if you're still interested I'll PM the details!

Worked perfectly when they came off the car and the dust seals were fine as well - it's just that I needed to raid one of the callipers for a seal for my 288s. Price was plus postage but I can look into postage costs - I don't mind splitting the cost for postage if that helps?

Yeah they do go for a lot, anyone paying £1000 plus is surely mental?! Part of the reason I'm loathed to part with it is that I would struggle to get another one if I ever wanted one again (and I probably would). In a selfish way I wish I'd bought 2 when they were still available in the shops.

Got a standard 280mm setup in the shed, including calipers, carriers, front flexis (intact), 5-stud discs, pads, caliper bolts. Basically it was the full setup off my VR until I upgraded to 288s. Only thing is that you will need a caliper dust seal and the discs have a bit of a lip. Was looking for £40 for the lot plus postage, or collection welcome.

I love this. But now it's in a box to keep it safe from our little one. I'm really torn in selling this but the truth is that it's either going to spend the next 16 years in a box (though probably appreciating in value) or it can be sold and appreciated properly by someone else. This is the biggest Lego set ever made, with 5195 pieces and weighs 11kg. I built it once (took 2 days of solid graft!), had it on display for about a year and then dismantled it again carefully a few months ago (so even though I've cleaned it down, some pieces are a little dusty). I'm not aware of any missing pieces and all the mini figures are present. The set is in the original box (a couple of rips on the box flaps, but otherwise in good nick), complete with instructions. I have found a full parts inventory for the set online and was going to check to make sure that all the pieces were present before sticking it on the 'bay, but I thought I would offer it on here first to see if anyone was interested. I was going to stick it on e-Bay for £800 once all the pieces had been checked, but I will offer it on here first for £750 plus postage (collection preferred) as it is. This may seem like a lot just after Christmas, but this really is a special set which isn't made anymore. From experience Lego don't re-make an old set once it goes out of production, so they're only going to go up in price. There were a few on eBay before Christmas for about £850 - £1000, but the cheapest I can find anywhere in the UK at the moment is £1000. It's in the loft at the moment, so no pics right now, but they can be supplied for anyone who can't come to see it for themselves. Here's a link with more info about the set http://www.brickset.com/detail/?Set=10179-1 I'd love to keep this, but I can only afford one highish-value luxury item sitting doing nothing, and unfortunately for this, the Corrado wins.

The reason I don't like to let X5s in in slow moving traffic is the same reason I don't particualrly like to let lorries in - you can't see much when there's one in front of you! To be honest I don't like people driving too close whether I'm in the Corrado or a 'cheap' car I don't care about - if they run into me and they get full blame for the accident your insurance premium will still go up (as I found to my cost)

Wouldn't have thought it was standard on an early 16v? I would guess that the immobiliser would probably isolate either the ignition, fuel pump or both as the KR has no proper ECU to speak of.

Go through each of the electrical systems on the car and assess which ones are working and which ones aren't. The full battery voltage has been shunted through those circuits so anything it went through that isn't designed for 12v would have been burnt out. Sounds like you need a minimum of altenator and clocks. Most of the clocks functions rely on 5v input signals hence why they're fried. At least it sounds like the ECU is safe! The spoiler module may be okay? Not sure exactly how it is wired - whether the spoiler module gets a speed signal from the clocks or directly? If the signal comes from the clocks, then the clocks speed sensor being goosed could be causing the spoiler issues.

I went to Stealth get cams fitted and remap (came all the way from Sheffield!). Very very knowledgeable. I went the Schrick manifold/cams/remap route with mine, which I think gives better driveability, better torque lower down the range, and slightly more power (20-30bhp or so). Very costly upgrade route but retains all the best charcteristics of the VR6 and makes it better to drive. With hindsight I wish I'd done an OBD2 conversion first.

You need the ducting from the fresh air intake to the heaterbox (and the heaterbox itself). You then use the cabin ducting (e.g. footwell vents, windscreen vent, centre vents and side vents) off the Corrado. You need the donor car heaterbox ducting because that contains all the motors/vaccuum slaves to open and close the flaps (this is from a rhd, using MK4 Golf ducting, but same applies to the Passat system)