Andy T

Yeah a few weeks ago, no fault codes (except one for ABS) and everything else looked fine on VAGCOM.

Somebody must know the answer to this, or understand how it works?

I'd concentrate on front end wishbones/balljoints/bushes, and just do the springs & shocks at the rear at first, including any other worn bits in the spring/shock assembly, then see how it feels, doing the rear axle bushes is an expensive job and might not be needed yet especially as your c has not been lowered before. I've not had a problem with rear axle bushes yet on my last two corrado's, they usually start to wear when lowering springs have been fitted without first slackening off the rear axle bolts and re-torqueing with the wheels on the ground. If this isn't done the bushes are under alot of stress.

:) If you are still wanting to keep it standard, fitting coilovers is a bit of a leap. New standard shocks, springs & bushes will make a massive improvement, no need to uprate unless you want to lower to improve looks. Or you could go halfway house with Bilstein sport shocks and some 30/40mm H&R or Eibach springs, that way you'll maintain most of the ride quality, any coilover'd VW i've been in has been too hard for most of our twisty roads.

I can live with it being erratic when cold, its just the constant vibration through the seat & steering wheel that's annoying.

Done the search and checked the Wiki, should the VR6 ISV click/buzz/vibrate when the ignition is turned on? mine doesn't make any noise or vibrate noticibly. My idle tends to dip very low then rise high a few times when cold, when warmed up it is stable but not very smooth (vibration in car) this gets much worse when headlights/heated screen or seats are turned on. The ISV doesn't seem to react to these loads, the rpm needle stays in the same position - is this normal? Our mk4 polo idle tends to re-adjust itself when electrical loads are turned on. I've cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner (wasn't that dirty and moved freely) What else affects the workings of the ISV, does the throttle position sensor tell it when to operate? Cheers.

Well I struggled to sell my 108k K-plate Immaculate G60 last year for £3500, got £3350 for it in the end (only 2 people came to look at it!)

Driving Course? how bad is your suspension?

When this happened on my G60 it was due dry/worn bearings. I took it off and dripped some engine oil down the shaft into the bearings, left it for a while then put a permanent 12volts across it for five minutes, then re-oiled, worked perfectly quietly after that for years. Ideally you should strip it and clean/grease the bearings, not sure if it can be done though.

Alot of suspension top knocking is usually due to the slotted nut at the top of the strut coming loose, usually because its not been tightened with the correct tool (which are cheap enough from halfords/GSF etc.) Do VR6 top mounts not make the suspension sit higher?

Cleaned my Hot Film MAF last weekend, removed the sensor unit from the intake duct so I could get a proper look at it (requires a 'tamper-proof' Torx bit with a hole in the centre - PM me if you need one, I have a spare) No visible dirt came off it after lightly spraying with IPA cleaner, and after refitting the idle is still rough (was worth doing anyway) I wrote down the Bosch part number thats on the sensor (not visible unless removed from intake duct) I'll post it on here tonight, may help confirm that its identical to the cheaper OBD2 MAF's that GSF sell.

Does look like a stuck thermostat but I thought you'd checked it/fitted a new one? If thermostat is ok, might be worth droppping the coolant and checking if water flows through the rad freely with a hosepipe.

Aux. pump should be running with ignition on, even if engine stopped, put your hand on the pump you should feel it whirring. There is a test you can do on the yellow sensor connector (bridging terminals I think) I'll have a look in the bentley manual.

My old valver had the most paint chips I have ever seen on a car and the previous owner was a man :lol: perhaps he wore womens shoes at the weekend?? :wink:

It's the cooler above the oil filter, the coolant runs through it to warm the oil during the warmup period, and to cool the oil during normal running. Not sure how VAG-COM checks the water temp, assume it gets a signal from the yellow temp sender, so it would show up a fault in the gauge but not a fault with the sender if you know what I mean.

Thats what my girlfriend is always saying to me, she really tries to wind me up about it!

Most of the C's i've been to view were either owned by women or had been at some point down the line. If your C has lots of paint chips on the drivers door sill (heels), it's definately been owned/driven by a woman! :D

The autobox is watercooled isn't it? is it all plumbed in as per your original engine? Standard water-oil exchanger ok?

The other night my META CAT1 Alarm/Immob went haywire whilst unarming the immob after it had auto-armed. The alarm was going off, immobiliser was alarmed and it wouldn't respond to the remote fob at all. I ended up calling the AA out, when the patrol arrived he'd never heard of META but he tried a reset procedure he knew of from other alarm systems, and after two minutes it was sorted. The procedure is - 1) Press and hold down both fob buttons until fob LED stops flashing. 2) Press lower button once 3) Press upper button once Indicators flash once, car can now be locked/unlocked as before. This happened last week and the alarm/immob has been working fine ever since. The AA guy reckoned the system had gone 'out of sequence' for some reason. This procedure isn't in the META instruction/installation sheet that came with car either! Obviously it will only work on systems with a two button fob, might be worth writing this down and keeping it in the glovebox!

Thanks, what does 1H2 refer to though, are the first three digits irrelevant in terms of compatability, just a reference to the vehicle they came from? Do you know which passat model/engine had the 1h2 614 217A unit? Cheers.

I need a ABS pump/valve block assy for my '95 VR6, I've read that the part no. is 1H2 614 217 A. I've found one at a breakers that apparently came from a mk3 Golf VR6. its part number is 358 614 217. Will this be a compatible unit? Does the '358' just relate to the vehicle model? I'm assuming the 'A' on the corrado number means its been revised once, does anyone know what the difference/compatibility is? Is there anyone that could look the second number up on ETKA to see what model/engine/year it relates to? Thanks.

I've recently had an intermittent ABS fault, which VAGCOM diagnosed as being 00276 Outlet Valve Left Rear. Steve F had the same intermittent fault & fault code on his VR6, when he changed the abs pump/valve block he found that the problem was actually caused by a break/crack on the electrical circuit, at the point where there is a tight bend in the circuit board. The replacement unit he fitted was from a different car, and the 'bend' in the circuit had actually been revised to use wiring instead, so in theory preventing the same thing happening again. I'll try and find out if it carrried the same part no, and what car it came off.

Part no. for 4-pin yellow sender (now black with blue line) on my VAG receipt is 701 919 369 D. Price was £22.37 including VAT. Your oil temp is displayed on the digital MFA readout in the clocks, press the button on the end of the wiper stalk and it shows different info, Oil temp is the one showing an oil can icon. If your oil temp reading is significantly lower than water temp when the engine is cold/warming up, i.e water temp 80, oil temp 60-65, i'd suspect a faulty yellow sender.

Just had a look and my house is just a foundation!

Have just ordered some IPA (Isopropyl) circuit board cleaner from Buck & Hickman, which is 'quick drying and ideal for delicate electronics & circuitry' I have a K&N filter so I guess there could be some oil on the MAF, will give it a clean at the w/kend.