Andy T

Good point I have a new 'blue' cap that I bought from AVS and forgot to fit it :roll:

The other day while sitting in traffic the coolant temp crept up to 115 degrees then steam rose from the bonnet. The front head flange had sprang two major leaks (a 3 month old item from Euro car parts, looks like it blew the seal on the 'plugged' bottom outlet) I also noticed that the fan wasn't running at all, and the radiator didn't feel very hot. A few wks before this happened I'd noticed that the top coolant hose felt pressurised (not swelling but pretty firm) but the matrix hoses seemed fine. What could be causing the pressure in the top hose, a stuck thermostat? before the burst happened the running temps had been normal, and the system was flushed out and replaced with G12+ around 2 years ago. This weekend I'm going to replace the head flanges & radiator fan thermo switch, should I be checking anything else/change the thermostat aswell?

I would of thought a good orbital used properly would be better anf more 'random' than doing it by hand, only on large areas though, they're no good at corners/crevices

:-P A law from a country where you can drive with no MOT or insurance, and not have to wear a seatbelt! I'm sure they would gone to bonded screens anyway to improve looks/security - the corrado was probably a test bed for bonded windows in the mk3 golf.

Thanks for the pic DCUK, looks good I think i'll go for it (without the eyebrow tho') I find the black grill looks too harsh against bright red, but looks fine on darker models, I think it will give the front end a more modern look. I was also thinking about colour coding the headlight surrounds, any thoughts? I've bought a new pair of surrounds so I might spray the old ones myself just to see how it looks before going the whole hog and getting them painted properly, I will post some pics when its done...

Anyone found a source for new/recon G60 pas pumps lately? How long do the recon ones seem to last, the one fitted on my C looks like a recon and is as noisy as hell!

Its a bit different to the mk2, better and stronger, don't think any of the parts are compatible. maybe it just needs greasing

Get a mains one, I can't see a battery powered one having enough balls/speed personally

Cheers, when I first bought the car it had one of those colour coded reiger? grilles on, wish i'd kept it now! anyone got a pic of a stock grille colour coded red?

Did a search but found nothing Anyone got a pic of a Red C with a colour coded standard grille? can't make up my mind whether to get it done or not! Cheers

Either the window guides/seals are causing resistance or something is up with the mech. It might be worth lightly spraying the insides of the vertical parts of the window seal with a silicone lubricant, this used to free up windows on mk2 golfs when the seals had shrunk, but i think the main reason was tired motors. Same as the mk2 the doors are sealed with a plastic sheet, its best to cut it open from the top and leave the bottom edge stuck on, then use gaffer tape so seal it all up. If there's not a perfect seal on the bottom edge, water will pour into the car when it rains!

What did you get for your £400 then? a new ECU? on my old mk2 gti the ECU connector got wet and corroded but it cleaned up fine with some emery cloth. The mechanic seems a bit vague in what he's trying to say! the 'scuttle' area where the ECU sits can get flooded if the drainage holes get blocked up (located in each corner near the bonnet hinges) its worth checking and cleaning them out regulary, if they are blocked they can help water find its way inside the car too :roll:

How come your oil light or warning buzzer didn't come on?!

My point was.... we fit 17's and don't notice the loss in acceleration.... go back to 15's and Whoa! its noticeable, not just because of the gearing diffence, less unsprung weight too.. If I wasn't bothered about look i'd probably be running 15's as VW intended with stiffer sidewall tyres

Thanks lads, handling is more important to me than looks, so think i'll go for rebuilding them both at 7.5J, then the widths are same & offsets are closer together, so more like factory spec. My old GTI used to run 16x7.5J's all round and I was happy with that setup. double 6-s, if you changed back to 15's you would definately notice the difference in acceleration and steering then!

What model/year's your corrado? I think later corrado's have the same sensors as mk3's, on the front at least. I get mine from German & Swedish, they will tell you if they are the same as the mk3. The abs rotors might be corroded or have come loose too, I derusted & painted mine when I changed the rear discs.

Yeah they'll always be plenty of garages after my custom but most of them will be monkeys! In all fairness the guy who owns the garage has been doing it for donkeys years and is probably pissed off with it all by now, they have quite a lot of aircooled customers so you can imagine the nightmares they have doing MOT repairs or even just servicing on those rustbuckets lol. I might of got a different response if i'd shown my face there as a previous customer, instead of ringing up from work. Phoned Awesome this morning for a price, told them that it hasn't overheated etc. so should be straightforward, they said they would ring me back with a price but never did! Will ask Jay if he's interested.

They are always really busy with general servicing and mots, booked up 2-3weeks sometimes, they can pick and choose what jobs they do. I can't blame them really it's a crappy job, shame though because they always do a quality job and I trust them with my C completely.

I need to get my headgasket replaced but my usual VW Specialist in Hazel Grove won't entertain the job. I'll try Awesome GTi store next, are there any other good VW specialists in the manchester area that I can trust and will do the job to factory spec? otherwise I might just DIY it..... Cheers.

Actually it also distributes current to the spark plugs :wink: I was more on about the differences between early 25pin and late 38pin digifant, but if Etka says the same dizzy for 8v's and g60's of all years, cool.

possibly because VW didnt expect people to be doing 100mph in the wet! :D I think they probably did.... a 140mph car should be capable of functioning properly in wet weather. My wipers seem a little slower at very high speeds but not in a dangerous way, maybe its just tired motors/wiring on some cars, has anyone checked the voltage at the motor?

Dependant on year of manufacture, surely? I thought there was some differences between the ignition systems PB & PG. I've seen rev counters stop and start up again for no apparent reason on C's that run perfectly, so it might not be related.

Fitted new knock sensor, and moved the connector bracket slightly as the old cable was rubbing against the oil filter/exchanger unit. Great. Then I noticed coolant had leaked slightly from the plastic water flange I replaced a few months back, and that there was a bit of mayo under the filler cap - Arrghhh looks like the head gasket might be on its way out! :(

At the moment i'm running design 90's (8J rears, 7J fronts) but i'm not convinced the handling is as good as it should be with such wide rear wheels. The other day I was looking at corrado tech specs and noticed that the standard rear track width is .2" narrower than the front, so fitting wider rear rims is going to upset that balance. Does anyone else find that 8J's on the rear spoil cornering/handling ability, or think the opposite? I'm currently rebuilding a set of bbs splits that are 7J ET33 fronts & 8J ET24 rears, but i've found that if I swop the outer rims over I end up with both front and rears being exactly the same width (7.5J) with an ET31 upfront and ET26 at the rear. Problem is I can't decide whether to do this or leave them as they are- any thoughts would be most appreciated!

Could be something as simple as your blue temp sender playing up - could be heavy overfuelling? Mine used to overfuel & die in the mornings until I replaced that sender.