Andy T

Here's my new VR6 motor to replace the G60 - I'm well pleased with it so far, it was only a matter of time before I gave in to six-banger power & sound :D N-Plate registered Jan 1996 89,000 Miles Classic Green Pearl Full factory black heated leather Existing Mods- 16" BBS RC's with G'year Eagle F1 rubber Bilstein/Eibach sport shocks & 30mm springs Grooved/Drilled discs all round Samco coolant hoses Goodridge s/s braided flexi's Bead Blasted inlet manifold FK Red/Crystal rear lights Meta Cat1 full closure Magnex s/steel exhaust system 8) Turn2 stage 3 engine mounts :? My first mods - Binned the eyebrow spoiler Brembo 'Max' Grooved & Coated front discs Pagid Fast Road Pads Audioscrape door pods with Alpine components Pic is a bit poor but will take some more this weekend, Pearl green looks incredible in the sunshine!

I have the same issue, i'm planning to spray them with plastic 'black satin' bumper paint (from Halfords) I have done wheel arch trims in the past with it and the finish is very consistent & hardwearing, almost looks like factory plastic. Ideally needs to be sprayed with plastic primer first though.

They do them for the VR6 tho (I must change my sig!) I think the VR ones are priced at £41 which is great if thats for a pair! What do you mean about the noise? from the grooves? cheers

Does anybody run these grooved discs, how do they perform/wear etc.? Did a search but didn't really find much on these. How good is the protective coating? Does it really stop corrosion in the long term? I've always favoured VAG discs but they don't look too great when they rust!

Maybe I should of just said 'Changed' :) But I will miss that lazy bottom-end grunt! (and the bright paint!)

Ahh... I don't have the fob, when the previous owner said it still had the original immobiliser, I assumed it was a chip in the key. perhaps the new fob activates both systems?

Thing is they are already ET33 which is a bit over normal for a VR6 already. Anyone else?

Conlog? is that the std. fit immobiliser or aftermarket? It currently has the factory immob. & a Meta Cat1.

I've recently bought a 1996 VR6 in Classic Green/black leather to replace my faithful Flash Red G60 (up for sale soon) The new car is in great shape but i've got a few questions about it - What is the 4-prong socket for in the passenger side dash tray? When I start her up, the idle sits at about 2000 rpm for a few seconds then settle down to 1100 ish. (750 when warm) is this normal? The engine sounds a little 'whiny' after startup from cold. Is this just the way Vr's sound compared to G60's? When decelerating in fourth gear, off-throttle, I can feel a slight drumming through the gearnob. If I accelerate, it stops. The G60 never did this, is it a problem? The brake discs are grooved all round, and I get a little vibration through the pedal during medium/heavy braking. Is this normal for grooved discs, or could they be warped? The driveshafts don't have balance weights fitted - should they have? Apart from that i'm well pleased with the car! will post pics soon.

Pretty sure as the dealer used my chassis no. to find the part number, and it looks the same as the old one. The pedal bracket just has a Y-shaped fork on the end, it's hard to tell how the cable would be secured properly. Why did they have to change things, what was wrong with the old hole & pin method!?!

Ahh sorry I should of said it's not the oval shaped grommet for the bulkhead, its smaller & thicker. I'll do the search again, i didn't really find any detail last time. Cheers

Does anybody run these on their VR6? I need to know if 16" 7J ET33's or 8J ET24's will clear the front brake calipers. I know both fit ok on my G60, but the VR6 brakes appear to sit further out from the hub, and I don't have the wheels at the moment to try them. So if anyone runs these on a VR6, what rim widths & ET's do you have? Cheers.

I've bought a new throttle cable assembly for my recently aquired VR6 8) but i've found that the old one has been bodged, it is held onto the acc. pedal 'fork' via a cable tie! The new cable is the type that has a black plastic end piece, a purple ball & spring, and a small loosely fitted rubber bung at the end(which isn't present on the old one) The problem is, I don't know how it is secured to the acc. fork, or where the rubber bung goes! Can anyone remember how its secured, or would kindly take a pic? I've phoned the stealer but they can't make sense of it on Etka. Cheers, Andy 1996 VR6 Classic Green Pearl Black Leather

If I was going to keep the car for some time then yes I would have new bearings. My VW specialist said they would remove the whole suspension leg so the camber/tracking would not be disturbed. Come on, somebody must have done this before!

Can the hubs be pressed out and replaced without changing the wheel bearings? The ABS Rotors(rings) are bent so I need to replace them, which means removing the hubs. The wheel bearings are good so would like to leave them in, is this possible? Cheers.

Yeah good point, the only other thing is that pulley spacing is longer due to the Flat ribbed belt pulley that drives the charger/alternator etc.

VW quoted me over £300 for a G60 steering pump! (and thats exchange as well) Being different from 2.0l, 16v & 8v/Gti pumps, GSF & Euro Car Parts don't sell them (as mentioned in other threads on here) nor does AVS. I've found a company in Bristol that re-conditions steering racks & pumps on an exchange basis, or they can refurb your actual item if you prefer. They've quoted me £95+Vat + £10 delivery for a recon G60 pas pump, which is not too bad compared to the stealer! They've asked for a pic of the pump so they can be 100% about the pulley spacing/inlet position etc. http://www.westernpowersteering.co.uk 0117 960 2906 Anybody know/recommend other companies like this?

They have a LOT more than 20 holes. Not all drilled discs are weak, but you can't beat them for water dispersal and cooling.....hence why all decent motorbikes and race cars use them. It's all in the quality of the metals used in the foundary. Plain discs are fine for road cars where refinement is important and repeated high speed braking unlikely. When I say 20 i'm only going off memory of the last porsche I walked past, it wasn't much more that 20 (guess the hotter versions must have more holes) When I find it I'll post a pic of the crap discs that were fitted to my C when I bought it - More holes than Swiss cheese, and had all the braking efficiency of said cheese with bread for pads. They wore unevenly and made a hell of a noise/vibration when coming to a stop.

Avoid Drilled disks that have two many holes drilled in. They are weak & wear unevenly (could be why yours are scored) If you look at porsche disks they only have around 20 holes in total, good drilled disks should be around the same.

Plugged the lambda sensor back in the other week, the car ran perfect for two days, then started overfuelling after a 30 min drive on the motorway, It was quite a warm afternoon? I'm sure I've heard of this problem before where the car runs ok for 20 mins or so but then overfuels when the engine gets really warm...? Can a lambda probe really be that intermittent?

Better check if my tensioner is modified then! have noticed that my belt has cross hatching on the back, but it still squeaks so will have to go...

Thanks for the tip but i'm not that desperate to know! The finish is that good, must of been flatted & mopped by a bodyshop.

Rock the engine with your hands is one way. Or get someone to sit in the car with engine on, handbrake on, increase the revs and bring the clutch gradually in to bite, while you watch for engine movement. Should move about an inch or so but not by a huge amount. If it lifts alot, the front mount is worn or in two halves! My C had the red lights on when I bought it, can't tell if they are made that way by hella, or have been tinted!

Do you mean you feel the engine move about, a sort of slackness? Could be worn or broken front, rear engine mount or gearbox mount. Front mount is easy to do, rear & box mount are trickier. engine/box needs jacking up or supporting from above.

I've just noticed that my G60 crank pulley is wobbling by about 0.5 - 1.0mm at idle, but looks fine on fast idle (or does it just appear truer because its moving faster??) Does a wobbly pulley mean that the crank bolt or pulley has been removed at some point in it's life, or can it happen to engines that have been untouched?