G60

ACK!! :shock: :mad: :x lanny. lAnny. LANNY. (not lenny) ..that really burns me! :x :x :x ..but hey, i should get mad at my parents, not you eh!! :D glad to hear you've got it sorted out. i couldn't believe it when after fixing the ground, that little fuse (that looked fine!) was the culprit. leave it to those crazy germans! no probs about the pull/chip.. car's sittin in the shed for another month or two.. we just got a bit of snow again now too.. :?

hey lee, just saw this thread now. i had the saw problem and it turned out to be a bad ground/fuse.. so it didn't surprise me when you said you fixed a ground and it worked better. try checking your battery ground connection and make sure it is 100%. i'm sure you have everything thought of and taken care of.. but so did i. problem kept coming up and it turned out to be a bad ground.. which i had already checked over quickly weeks before..as well as a blown fuse that looked fine and would usually work... i guess it just rattled out of place now and then. fuse #16 i believe, or there abouts (gauge power..nothin worked but cable-driven speedo) the fuse cuts the signal to the voltage light on the dash and (for some stupid reason) the batt won't charge properly when this light doesn't get power. anyway.. electrical gremlins are always a good bet to double and triple check. good luck with that. :)

get a second air box with the same setup as you currently run. move your battery to the trunk.. sit the air box where the battery was, run a pipe to it and run cold air from below. :D ..or blank it.. but it kind of defeats the purpose of freeing up that second inlet..other than reducing heat by not recycling hot air.

http://www.eurotuned.com/rs1/rs1.htm :shock: :shock: whoa! (not nearly as nice lookin as the rauscher rado tho!)

i would do that dubcharged... but its about the money not the distance. i'd be happy to drive the car up there.. i know it will make it just fine. ..and i want to see how it all goes down. i just don't have the money for the charger right now. or maybe i should push all the other rado priorities out of the way. i was hoping for a new alarm, some tires and new synchros... but maybe i should just do the charger now.. rrr. :x (i'm trying to save for a house and the market here is a sellers market right now...as opposed to a buyers market last year at this time) :mad:

leew: that would be very much appreciated, but it is sort of far. i'd be happy to pay shipping and any other costs you might have. would be a big help to me until i get the chip/charger mess sorted. nice grill if i haven't already mentioned! haha :D

http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/techtips.cfm there's a couple links to follow there.. not sure if they will be of any help to you. (there's a link to it if you click my signature and then go to 'useful links'.. about the only useful thing on my page :lol: )

..i would dubcharged. no cash for that right now. it's gonna be around $1200 for what i want to do........if not more. if i had the stock pulley and chip i'd put them back on for now.. but i don't. :? i just take it easy... maybe i'll wait til i get it on the road and drive up to kk so they can inspect..... this is a stressful affair for me. :mad: ..startin to wonder if i should even be drivin it around without gettin the charger looked at. :(

see what i mean about being wary of revin past 5500??!! thats why i want to get the chip out and an sns in so i know what i'm workin with. peak boost is 12psi.. and it pushes to 13psi if i run hard through a gear then hard to the top of the next. this is at ~6000rpm mind you...blown apex strip on the top, leaky silencer box and a dirty ic.. other than the ic, i'll fix those problems when i have the rebuild done. going to take the ic off and clean it soon. plannin on going to kk for the rebuild and the remap when the time comes. its about 6 hours away from me. just hopin the charger holds out until i can afford it. who knows... maybe its just got a couple blown strips and its sound other than that. i should be getting around 17-18psi i imagine?

well.. i'm sitting with a cam, 65mm pulley, 3.0bar fpr, isv reroute, and a chip that i have no clue about.. and its doubtful there have been any engine mods. planning on going with your st 5 and 3.5bar when i get the car out in a month or more. my concern is the charger.. not sure exactly when it was last rebuilt. only know it was within 3-5 years ago.. but the car has only seen maybe 10,000km in the past year and a half so.... i want to rebuild, port and port dual intakes.. but don't have the funds atm. if i went with the st 5 right now... then had the charger mods done later.. i would need to have the chip remapped, correct? would the cost be lower for an sns chip mapped to my car if i already purchased the st 5 and wanted a remap? thanks!

..glad to hear that about the SNS chip bazgreener. i haven't had the fortune of experiencing one yet.. but i hope to soon.

"The need for the FPR isn't just for after 6k, its for the complete range since more aggression can be extracted from the motor, especially in the mid-range. It should be stonking from 4.5k upwards to 6k." well put. thanks for clearing all that up.. good point about being higher up in revs in the next gear after a shift at 6.5k.. still not worth spinning the G-lader that fast imho. i mean.. if you've got your charger rebuilt pretty beefy and you're not worried, rev the hell out of it! ..but i don't like grenades. dubcharged: would the head flow well past 6k if it was ported? with a beefed up charger and a ported head how high can you take the revs safely? ..say.... with a 65mm or 68mm pulley and proper fueling?

ah! ok then.. i'm planning this eventually too.. we have satalite broadcast over here.. just like the theme stations you can pull up on your tv satalite. what is the bosch part? have a number or a pic? thanks.

there are several articles on troubleshooting this.. i think there's a faq on the cca site. even if you don't fix it yourself, you could pinpoint the problem so the shop just has to fix it, not diagnose it. ..i'm cheap :D

bazgreener: there isn't any benefit to taking the G60 to over 6k.. the power drops off at 6k. with that small a pulley all you're doing to putting undue stress on the charger. once you reach 6k, shift to the next gear and it pulls harder than taking it past 6k. correct me if i'm wrong guys..but i thought this was widely known.. i'm not saying the 3.5bar is not necessary.. i agree with everything dubcharged just said. you don't want to lean out just as your engine is spinning as fast as it goes! ..i've been told by guys with as many years of corrado experience as there's been corrados....don't take it past 5500 too regularily. never past 6200. let alone 6500! (and they were talking about stock pulley) just mho... correct me if i'm wrong. i'd bawl like a baby if i blew the charger..just tryin to prevent that for someone else. :) what do you guys think, dubcharged, sam.. darren.. whoever?

make sure you find out the specifics of the rebuild as andyg60 mentioned. the PO of my G60 told me that the charger had been rebuilt by the owner before him.. so looking at the history all I know is that it was rebuilt 3-5 years ago. so now i'm not certain when it will need to be done again...if i was buying the car over again i'd be incredibly specific about the rebuild, but back then i just didn't know! make sure you find out as much as possible about past rebuilds and mods... i bought mine without realizing it already had the isv reroute and 65mm pulley :oops: ..it was a nice surprise when i figured it out... but you should find out as many of the specifics as you can before you buy. i'd say that for your age (you're a year up on me) that the G60 is a better choice since it is cheaper (unless you get one that has gotten a bit loose from neglect), the insurance will be cheaper, and from a modification standpoint, you can tweak the G60 and do a lot of interesting stuff to it. it can be a reliable daily driver or strip it out and make it a beast. i've planned enough mods for mine to last me the next few years i bet..its always a waiting game..waiting on the cash! :? ..also... save some of that cash for after you get the car and a few things break. there will at least be one or two if not more. i wouldn't go with a VR6 if i was you because they are more to buy and this won't leave you with much (or any) money to spend on maintenance right after the buy. good luck.. hold out for a nice one!! :D

defintely over 300. i wouldn't be surprised if it was 500... i've heard of certain turbo VRs pushin 500 before..... yes, the styling is MINT. don't like the golfy front signals tho..

hey! don't poke fun!! ..my wallet is small :? gonna be over a grand i know that for sure! :x

http://www.rauscher-tuning.at/vw_corrado.htm

HEY!! you found their site!! i've been lookin for this site since i saw a pic of that NICE VR. very very nice. thank you! :D :D :D

you might want to try neuspeeds.. thats what i have.. but on stock struts :cry: ..grabbin up some koni adjustables when a few more paychecks arrive. i heard that the neuspeeds are a lot better than the eibachs on corrados. neuspeed makes two sets... one low and one lower. don't know the specifics because the PO put em on but my car is roughly 75mm low.. bit harsh ride but thats because the stock struts are shot. :shock:

'no no' because they suck in hot air with that setup. either route a cold air duct or run the filter down through the carbon cannister hole. 'no no' because high flow filters let in some tiny particles that regular filters shouldn't... which in turn can foil up the charger over time. but this is a controversial issue. i run a high-flow filter personally... i'll let you really informed folks chime in here.. :)

..listen to banana. i'd get everything in writting..did you ask what car it came out of and why? could be chopped.. why do they have all these extra parts that they need to dump? ..just seems a little low on the price for an install job. of course, its probably cheaper on that side of the water.

i got little rubber pads with my oem pads (i get discount or i'd try something else). with the rubber pads in there is no squeek, but if one slips out.. then that side starts to squeek. might want to try sticking a thin rubber sheet behind the pad. copper grease does well too as mr. banana said, might want to try that first. i mess with that stuff in the driveway, but if you're not confident with brake work the shop is a very good idea...i just kind of jumped in there and hoped i wouldn't wreck anything ..i know its a real pain goin to the shop all the time... :x

...get a G60 eh! muhahah :twisted: (more room in the engine bay!) :lol: