stretch.

Well today has been productive, not as much as I'd hoped though, Swapped out the 24+ year old dash speakers, replaced the door strikers, replaced the plastic seat bushes. Then, made a start on swapping the waterpump out, as the failed idler pulley hid just how much play was in the pump... Now trying to figure out if I need to remove the oil pump pulley to get the final few bolts for the waterpump off. Oh, and I'm going to change the cambelt too.

Well mine is G reg, registered 31st March 1990, most of the parts have '89 Manufacturing stamps ("West German" yo) Some snaps: And I've just noticed that it looks like the lower cambelt cover has broken... nice.

After working every hour under the sun (and some under the moon too!) I'm back to trying to fix this, I've found 2x part numbers. 027 121 020: Appears to be the right one, but umpteen places say it's not. 027 121 031: No. And I've tried every variation I can think of to try and hunt them down; slip pulleys, double pulleys, idler pulleys, dumb waiter pulleys, night out on the pulleys, and even just KR Water pump pulley. Someone please put me out of my misery...

Evening All, I've got an early valver with the split pulleys, I had the inner pulley welded a few years ago, but unfortunately the welds have now broke loose and by god does it now sound like a bag of spanners. Am I right in thinking I can just swap the water pump pulley out for a later one, or this one and fit a later aux belt? Cheers guys,

Right, front engine mount bracket needs to be replaced. Nowhere seems to stock them, but I got given the part number 1117900500, which appears to be the only engine mounting available. Except it's the wrong one, the bolt holes are in the right place but the rear profile is wrong and it's about 10mm too narrow. Anyone know what the correct part number should be? My engine is currently supported by a few blocks of wood...

N***FLM heading Westbound on the M621 yesterday, and a Storm with crystal rears tonight at Cardigan Fields/Kirkstall! 2 x spots in 2 days! First for me!

N***FLM heading Westbound on the M621 yesterday, and a Storm with crystal rears tonight at Cardigan Fields/Kirkstall! 2 x spots in 2 days! First for me!

This is now the third time I’ve had to write out this post. Thanks to my stupid mac updating everything, then the forum logging me out! GRRRRR! Right. I’ve been slacking on the updates, even though there has been a fair bit of work done on the car. First of all, a few shots I had on my computer of the lit dials: They look nice, but I’m not 100% happy with the execution, but it was an admirable first try. Sadly, the fuel/temp gauge stopped working after I dropped the dials, and with that, I also cracked the plastic case, awesome. Then, the wheel fell off. Not figuratively, literally. Gutted. This was the only decent wing on the whole bloody car! Sadly, due to a forthcoming holiday, I just didn’t have the time, or dosh, to fix the car to take on my roadtrip to Germany. So I took the next best thing. A 2008 Laguna 2.0 DCI Sport Tourer (fancy word for an estate if you ask me!). To be fair, it performed really well, even cracked 130 mph on the autobahn, so it did me proud. And returned a 10 day average of 47 MPG. Coupled with the €1.27/l for diesel, we weren’t too upset at the situation. And it meant my girlfriend could take the big suitcase! Highlight of the trip! Wolfsburg felt like a waste of time, and we decided against visiting Osnabruck, wouldn’t feel right without the corrado! SO that’s on the cards for next time! Right, so back from Germany, time to get back to work on the corrado. I managed to finally find an early corrado that was being broken, so I pinched a wing, a wheel arch liner (which was scrap sadly!) and a set of dials, so I could try and sort mine out! While I was waiting for those to turn up, I decided to make a start on the heater matrix. So I studied up, read the guide on how to do it (without removing the dash) backwards and forwards about 100 times, which didn’t take long, as it’s only about 6 bullet points (warning sign!) After 8 Hours, I have this: Not too bad, for a ham fisted person like me! Except, scraped knuckles and the worry of remembering where the bajillion fixings went back wasn’t my only issue. Oh no. The hot air exchanger box (air box, interior air box, heater box, stupid ****ing flappy thing) control cog had disappeared somewhere. Which is odd, as I remember everything working, albeit that was over a year prior to this point when I last had working heaters. I managed to get a replacement heater box from Luke at Obsessive Compulsive Dubs Disorder (OCDD). So while Luke was getting that sorted, I decided to allocate a little pot of money to tarting the car up, and sorting out the mangled wing. And off to the garage (Arran Motors in Leeds, can’t recommend them enough!) it goes! As usual with these things, I then spend twice the amount I was expecting, by just thinking, ooh yeah, I might as well do that as I have to do x and y anyway if I want to do Z. Eventually I stopped myself. [*] New springs [*] N/S wing fitted and painted [*] O/S wing straightened and repainted [*] Rear arches cut out, and remade, and painted [*] Full 4 x wheel tracking [*] Set of secondhand Lenso DTM Wheels (Anyone got a centre cap and nut spare?) [*] Both doors de dinged, straightened and painted. Had change from £1300 surprisingly, and I still have 1.5 tins of paint left over. Which is enough to respray the car a few more times. But I told them not to worry about finishing off the heater matrix, as that would be like admitting defeat. And I’m a northern man. And we just don’t do that. We’re manly men, with manly jobs in IT working in comfy offices with free tea and coffee and cakes. Manly. And besides, I’d convinced myself that putting it back together after 3 weeks would be “fun”. Here’s a pic of the car after the respray, Just need to find another centre cap and nut now, as one of the local rapscallions has had away with one. Anyway, while I was sorting out the heater matrix, I did a few other little things, like the window roller bushes (Thanks for them – 8V Matt), and new pedal rubbers, replacement rear heated screen button, and replaced the clips for one of the trim pieces that surround the boot hatch. Productive ey? And that kind of brings us up to today. Well, Friday. When the car cut out after going over a bumpy road. Restarted it and continued my journey absolutely fine. Then yesterday, it did the same, except now it won’t idle. And so today I started hunting down the issue, I fixed the battery back in place properly, and started going through the motions. Figured I’d check the idle stabilization valve, as it looks as old as the car. Even trying gently to get the connector off, the ISV disintegrated in my hands. So I’m guessing that may be part of the issue. But then I also spotted a broken wire and spade connector lurking beneath the ISV. So, looks like I’ve got a bit more work to do!

Cheers guys, Thanks Rado for the link, I was trying to find it for a while yesterday! It doesn't look too complex to be fair, the wiring for the cluster seems pretty easy, and it has a few nicer touches than the early cluster (separate indicator lights being one!) The only thing it doesn't really touch on, is the VSS wiring from looking at it, but I've got a bentley manual which should shed some light on that.

Mines a 12gallon tank, on the back of the dials I have (from memory!) the wide electrical plug, small black vacuum hose, and a speedo cable connection. The odo is analogue. The main issue, is that I dropped the bloody clocks after I installed some backlit dials, lost the temp needle, fuel level stopped working, and I've cracked the bloody plastic -- Which is different between early and late clusters! Annoying. And I can't find any early clusters either. Which is ever more annoying.

Simple quick question, will the later instrument clusters be a straight swap into my 1990 1.8 16v? If not, I only realistically need a new temp/fuel part of the cluster, would this swap from a late into mine?

Hi Guys, My window roller bushes are kaput. Which isn't too good when the heater is out... But first thing first! I need 4 window roller bushes, not too concerned on if they're new, as long as they're still in good condition! I don't think mine took too well to all the faffing with them they've had over the years! Also... The heater box/air distribution bit! The cog which controls direction on the largest flap has gone awol, noticed it during changing the heater matrix; So I'm hesitant to put it back together until it's sorted so I'm after either the fastenings or a whole box. In Short: 4x window roller bushes 1x heater box / fastenings for the flaps and the control cogs. Hope someone can help! I'm in Leeds, so anybody nearby who has em, I can collect and save postage and packing costs!

Sorry to bump an old thread, but Jesus Christ, I can't move that bloody plastic nut. Seems to be done up inhumanely tight, any tips?

Swore at it. The n/s front wheel came off. Fecked the wing, flat spot on the brake disc, and looks to have mullered one of the threads in the hub. They look to have been overtightened, and stripped two lugs almost clean, I'd comment on the others, but a chap walking on the pavement swears he saw one go flying by him into a school yard. It was only picked up from it's MOT and having some work done (back calipers) on Tue, so I suspect this could be related... In slightly more positive news, I replaced the air filter, tipped in some redx, lacquered and polished the rear lights, and I'm just about to wire in a temp battery for my backlit dials. I think there was more... But I can't remember!

Must have decent clear plastic and a working fuel/temp/mfa portion, Dropped mine down the stairs being a klutz. Anybody?

Okay, well the dials are pretty much finished now, after going through about 7 different designs, 3 black ink cartridges and umpteen sheets of PHP paper. The visible front should be printed in reverse, I tinted it 3 times in total. Next, I printed a black and white copy onto some decent quality paper stock, I overprinted this twice to get a true black colour. The two were then.carefully joined together, with an additional blank transparency behind to protect the paper. and the gaps for the odometer, screws and needles was then cut out. A word of caution here, do not use more spray mount than necessary, otherwise the ink on the paper and the visible transparency will bleed. These cut outs were then used as stencils on a sheet on electro luminescent paper to provide the backlighting. I'll add some finished shots later. in the meantime, anyone know where I can pick up some new needles from? I've lost one...

Thanks, just used Photoshop, some people who've done the same to other cars have used illustrator, but I stuck with what I;'m comfortable with. The first successful print was unsuccessful! It printed and dried perfectly, but the size was slightly out, and the colour was patchy and semi transparent at best, I'm going to try and fix the size issue, then try multiple overprinting. ---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:58 AM ---------- 7 Complete overprints seems to be the right kind of amount for the printer I'm using to get the opacity level I want,

Thanks guys, I've received the transparency film through, so I'm going to finish up the design and see if I can get one printed out tonight as a trial. Bloody ballache finding a decent film, as overhead projectors seem to have gone out of fashion since I left primary school! Ended up buying a box of 50, that are suitable for inkjet printing. Then next will be a case of wiring in some LED's, (thinking indigo or a darker red at the moment) and away we go!* *Or not as my experiments so often turn out... -- Edit -- Okay, just tried printing the dials... Word of advice: Find out which way your printer feeds paper through, then try and remember which side of the transparency paper is the side that you print to, otherwise you may cause your printer to smoulder. Going to pinch the brothers printer tomorrow after work, and try again. Looks promising though!

Part 1 - Dials. Odd place to start, but after snapping cartilage from working on the corrado, I've had to take a bit of a lighter set of tasks. I like the corrado dials, but they really date the car. Nothing much I can do about the analog speedo, But I'm damn well gonna try. Dials look a bit crazy without the fronts... and sadly I snapped the tacho needle trying to pry it off.. This should help anyone looking to custom create their own dial facings for the early 'rado's. And what I am to have them looking like. All the white area's will be back lit, there's room in the dials to mount a few ribbon led's, or maybe even set up a nice pcb to mount some SMD's to. Also, going to be re-working the bottom row of warning lights, so they'll be back lit icons, like on more modern cars. The plan is to print them on transparency film, like the type used in overhead projectors, any portions I want a different colour for, I can change with coloured film.

Bit of history on my Corrado, I'm 10th owner (My girlfriend is now he 11th!), Registered 31st March 1990, it's a 1990, 1.8 16v on 163350 miles (As of today!) and we're cracking on with a full style restomod. So far, since I've owned it (March 2010), I've had to have a fair bit of work done. - Gearbox Rebuilt - Head rebuilt after HGF - New Rad - Clutch master and slave replaced - New rear calipers - Complete new brakelines - New alternator And numerous other bits and pieces over the last couple of years, but now's the time, while the cars off the road, to really crack on with the work. The car's been laid up since September (Had to get a z4 itch out of the way!) so started at the beginning. Changed the rear pads, unstuck the rear calipers and cleaned off the standing rust. Got the mk4 coolant tank to go on, and need to replace the top radiator hose after a pinprick hole. The anti roll bar needs re-attaching Handbrake mounting needs welding, as the handle has ripped the metal from mounting. Umpteen different bodywork bits. -- Nice little list. Good thing this car has sentimental value. I'll be splitting this up into a fair few posts, and this could well be one of the slowest moving builds! Here we go!

H/Brake Cable Balance Piece £2.50 - Is this the part that attaches the handbrake to the tunnel? If so, could I get a posted price? Also, do you have the clamp bolts that you use to tension the power steering? it's the bolt that bolts through another bolt-head if that makes sense!

21 soon to be 22, had mine since March 14th 2010. The car's older than me! 162k and still running!

L460DTA, black lowered on BBS IIRC in Scarbados, heading towards the uni going over the bridge. I'd parked mine up on the bridge and was heading into town, spotted after commenting to my girlfriend about not seeing many rado's out and about! looked good!

H16 VRG? I think anyways, parked on a driveway in Burley, Leeds! There's also a Green Storm living out in Pudsey. Rarely see Rado's out and about though.

1.8 16v | Blue - LC5Z | Leeds Price: 1000 Description: Owned the car over the last 2 years as a rolling project, impending new car and lack of space means it has to go sadly. The car is a 1990 on a G plate, I'm the 10th owner, and the car has done just over 160,200 miles, and is in daily use. Tax runs out in July, MOT is December (From memory) It has a grey cloth interior, no sunroof, no aircon, and it had the electric windows retrofitted after production. The door cards are black early style and it has the warning triangle, and a 15" spare (Sebring) with a brand new tyre. The spoiler still works perfectly on the button and at speed. In the last 2 years the following work has been done to the car: Both in-pro window mechanisms replaced Battery replaced 2010 Head Gasket replaced Top end rebuild Radiator Replaced Thermostat/Waterpump replaced Late headlights fitted Majority of engine bay coolant piping replaced think only the top rad hose is left, but it is fine. All brake lines replaced New rear brake calipers Alternator replaced with later refurbed model New Clutch Slave and Master cylinder New Brake master cylinder Gearbox reconditioned/Rebuilt Bad points, Bodywork - Both rear arches need attention, and front drivers wing, needs a respray Needs the interior electronics looking at, the door speakers aren't wired and the door window buttons need rewiring to accept the production door buttons Heater matrix recently blew, so is currently bypassed. Speedo over-reads by 10mph constantly, so when you're doing 50mph the speedo reads 60mph, the digital average is correct however. The car has a full stainless miltek exhaust, is currently running 17" Dezent alloys and has 3x federal tyres and 1x random make. It has been lowered on matched springs and dampers, and will come with a set of spare headlights, misc interior trim, new rear brake pads, a later style debadged grill as well as a few other goodies.