Fulltimejunglist

I didnt know which bolt on the distributor adjusted it so i lift them all done up. Looked as if i can twist it left to right a little on the mount if i undoo the bolts, not sure if this is what you wanted me to do... My isv has been like that since i bought it, plastic clips with tape around them, they did seem fine. And the other clips, white connectors was the only thing i had, but i figure if there connected thats fine, might look bodge but i was informed they would be fine. I have never known what this tube is suposed to go to or do... Anyone let me know? All wires seem to be connected but let me know if those clips could be causing this please, i dont have any solder either...

check oil cap for spunk, could be head gasket...

Cheers for all the help mate, really useful, thanks. I will get soe pictures up tomorow to let you see if you can spot my problem. It is a kr, i will have a go at that and then retern a post to state my luck. Thanks again Rowan.

Id say it was a sports car but as time continues other brands and Volkswagen bring new products to the market which are faster... With an R36 in it im sure it would be a good modern day sports car or r32... (Or turbos : ) If it handles as well as the 944 and other cars of that ages which were race/sports cars then id say its a sports car. Thats why i liked them since i was a child i supose.

The lights on the dash come on, i turn it mroe and it turns over, buzzing from the isv when i have it on the first notch i think, it pretty much sounds like it did when it worked, well started but just doesnt fire. I had a starting problem before, hence me starting this thread, it used to start evrytime if i turned it over for a very short while, id say 5 seconds... When it started it needed me to give it a bit of gas to keep it running or to get it running, then it would start and say id get to the petrol station and it started fine, id go backt to my car and itd just click (Once) then be silent, if i turned the key back and forth a few times it would work after many many times of turning the key. It sounded as if somehting wasnt engaging all the time but would occasionally, im pretty sure it was the starter motor as now it turns over instead of clicking and being silent but doesnt fire. There seems to be a buzzing from the distributor when i am turning it over, its not the isv as this used to buzz anyway (Not sure if it should but ive heard thats fine) Ive taken the dist cap off, it was pretty much clean, i gave it a clean, i cleaned up all wires from my battery and all contacts(Battery terminals, earth straps etc) Could this be the coil pack? The thing which started this really was my engine mount breaking, i changed into 3rd gear and heard a loud bang and my whole car shook as if i had just bottomed out on the floor for a second, this made the engine jump, hit the bonnet and put dents in it, ripped the wiring which i think is to the distributor, snapped the alternator, clip which holds the air box in place. I didnt have a clue so some electrition looked at it and cut the positive to the coil pack then bodged it back together, which ive sorted. He has abliterated the plug which connects to the distributor by cutting and then bodgin them back into the the old pins, which ive not changed but have sorted(All pins are connected) In the end he changed the little box in the scuttle pannel which is connected to the ecu, then i got it back (It misfired) Around two weeks ago i started it, it was running like s*** and cut out and now will not start again. It does seem like a problem with fuel reaching the engine or something electrical not giving enough spark Now it wont start at all, just turns over (I can smell fuel) Cheers Rowan, any help is usefull as i need any help and advice i can get, thanks. Aidan

I know i asked but no one answerd so i just attempted to do it as i figured it wouldnt be too hard to put two bolts back in, which i was wrong about... aha. I have now fitted the starter motor and the fuel relay and it still just turns over and wont start... When the car ran it was fine, there seemed to be a small leak from a water pipe on the right of the engine, by the warm up valve, pipe going into the engine i think? This only seemed to trickle drops occasionally, i did take it apart and the pipe looked fine so im not sure how or why it was leaking, the only thing which made me think this may be a problem as there are wires and connectors for the thermotime switch and warm up valve (I just googled what they were) They seem fine but may have got a little wet at points 9Definatly dry by now). Other than that there seems to be a buzzing from the distributor, i think, as its hard to hear as its parked on a main road (Loud traffic constantly, no one too listen for the location of the buzz) Im pretty sure its not the isv as that buzzed when the car worked fine. Im at the last straws now, ive tried everything in my knowledge to try and get it working and it just wont go... Im really in need of a car and getting rid of it would pretty much break my car heart so i really want to get it going as much as possible as its beggining to only be a pain in the arse. I know we all take s*** sometimes but for the whole time ive owned this (2 years) its broken and broken and broken, ive litterally never been able to trust it for a long drive and its never even given me the time for many short drives... Just money money money.... The car cost me £800 and ive spent alot more than that attempting to get it to a slightly reliable state and it just wont budge. Any other suggestions on why it will turn over but not start would be much appreciated, thanks... Aidan ---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:53 PM ---------- I eventually put it on axle stands and jacked the engine up how you said, still the top bolt wouldnt go in for ages even with the other bolt in... Not only that but the place sent me the wrong starter motor TWICE.... Automatic one first, then some other one... usless.

i used a trolley jack i thought i had mentioned. As i said y axel stands are too high well seem it, litterally looks insane jacked up and its not even high enough to fit them under. I had jacked the car with the trolley jack and no i had not supported the engine as i figured the 3 engine mounts would hold that in place... My jack is a low profile jack (About 3 inches clearance) i use widow makers to get it onto that jack aha... I appologise, if my knowledge of cars mechanics are pretty poor, i mainly work on it because i have no money and i love Corrados and in order to own one, i have to fix it. I only worked out which bit of metal was the starter motor about 7 days ago. But as ive said before i like to do my work myself as i can kind of trust it and its alot cheaper. Havin it broken for 85% of the time does make me want to give in though but when i go out and look at it i realise why i own it. Where on the engine is this spot, sump? Thanks for the advice. Seriously. Aaha and my car would not drive over anything, just push it along.

I too agree with all which has been said. Dorr handles need to be done, soon they will run out.

Worse turning cirlce. Heavier steering. My mate had one of his wheels fall of using them, hubcentric also. They do look nice though :)

cheers mate, i did try and use a hammer and wedje it inbetween and lower the jac to raise it but it seemed to push it away from the hole at the same time as moving it up... I could fit a screw driver through but not the bolts. There a pain in the arse to get in. Ill try jacking the engine up to get it to raise it a little. Its hard as my car is too low, i have to use a widow maker to get it onto the trolley jack and it feels insane to put it on axle stands as itl end up sitting pretty much up right, i dont even think the jack will go that high... Not a chance of using ramps as it would jsut push them out the way. Nice one and thanks alot rowan, ill give it a go.

Pleas help meeeee. I cant get it to align

Could be wheel bearings. As you said it was not whiney it is possible the cv joint although mine went and it wouldnt move at all so i could imagine the weight more so.

I really dont think i was born to have a working car. I attempted to fit my new starter motor today, raining and in the dark, not the best but o well. It came off really easily, 2 bolts... Then when i went to put it back on the bracket at the back which holds the bolts in had slipped down by about 1/2 - 1cm i didnt realise at first but then relaised, i tried to push it back up but it didnt seem to move up at all. One, how do i get it to go up? and 2, did i miss something like another bolt for the bracket? there is one on the engine mount but i didnt fancy an engine on the face so i left them all done up. Looks at if the bracket is mounted to the front engine mount, from what i can see. its a 1.8 16v for anyone who is willing to help me out. Any help would be very nice. Cheers, Aidan

ive got one orderd now, should be here tomorow hopefully... then ill have to see what it sayng. Could give it a try if your up for it mate. Think i saw your car the other day tbf mate.. Cheers for that too. You got a vr?

Has anyone else fitted one without a tourque wrench?

you still got the bumpers?

I have brought a starter motor but i dont have a tourque wrench and is sais i should set it to 60... Should i just fit it? How tight is 60 about? thanks

little wounded, what happend to it? Mines being a pain in the arse at the moent also tbh

good good tbh, it is nice. Wheels nay but the rest, would be horrible to be taken appart. Wheels should go.. aha. Sorry. Cheers anyway grim

ahaha, thanks. Id hope so but as it doesnt start im sure the engine mount will be just fine. Im a scrooge but that is due to being on a budget and a student... aha.

you can make a canvas with the stencil of the image on, ill explain quickly but.... here goes. First you start with elumsion, you cover a screen (very fine mesh) with the emulsion with a scraper of some kind to a smooth flat even finish Then dry this for around 15 mins(Dark room - DO NOT LET IT TOUCH LIGHT AS IT REACTS AND DRYS) Then get the images you want printed onto projector paper (Thin clear sheets) Tracing paper does work but its a fuzzier finnish. then put the image over the top of the 15 mins dried emulsion and put a large light over the image.... About another 10-15 mins, take the image off the screen and immediatly wash the screen under water, if all worked well which it should have as long as you dont leave it too long under the light, you will have the image left on the screen. With the image on the screen get paint (Obviously printing paint) and lay the screen over what you want so the image is aligned to where you want it, then add paint over the top of the screen not too much just a nice layer over the top, not pushed through the canvas but just a nice layer over the place where the image will be, then when all is coverd and even scrape over it, pushing the paint into the canvas leaving a nice smooth thin layer the size of the image, press it down hard. Then remove and itl be done. Thats how to screen print in simple. But if you follow that, it will work. Some paints and emulsions will be different so follow instructions on bottle etc. Theres also probably an easier way of doing this, eg buying them...

"The blanks that cover the screws for removing the clocks please" and b pillars.

"wait to see if coolant is forced out of the overflow on the expansion bottle." What does this mean? My car does this and overheats but hadgasket done fairly recently.

"Don't be tempted to go cheap (GSF etc)" Umm im too late.

aha cheers anyway, im hoping that if it is wires then i can ust fix them individually tbh. Havnt got an imobilier but i wouldnt be supprised if it has had something at somepoint throughout its life. There are cables which do nothing hang around under the dash, sod knows what they were for... These are not causing my problem. Itis still buzzing at the relay and i think its buzzing at the dizzy Annoying me alot.