science

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Overnight temperature, -6

Miles from home, 107

Heater Blower packing up, Priceless (£29)

The shape of the magnet is critical. Flat and wide disc N45 magnets will loose their magnetism, sometimes permanently, when heated to above 80*C, the long cylinder shape used in magnetic sump plugs is good for 140*C. N45 magnets are better the N52 in regards to operating temps.

I've kept the 12v rubber gasket, and so used longer cap head screws to suit M6x22 (I think?) with a shake proof washer. They are also easier to install than hex bolts.

I could not find a list anywhere, was going to make one but run out of time for my OBD2 conversion.

I've had a look at your pins on the connector picture from your build thread;

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Is there something in pin 27?

Other than that, all the right slots are used, but they may not be the right wires.

Jubilee type doesn't produce even pressure all the way round and can create a pinch point, slicing into the hose. Use jubilees with care or buy silicone hose clamps the original Corrado twin eared type can also be used.

I think it's the top cover for the rear suspension strut from the polo.

Edit: As Wes said.

There is one on eBay for £15. Part number ending B, not sure if its interchangeable. You need to check the pin configuration on the side. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221585538500%20

As Ian says you may need high octane fuel. Mine runs fine on 95 with the MLD gasket, maybe because it's OBD2?

The MLS gasket is fine to use, unless you run very large camshaft duration. Just make sure the matting surfaces are very clean when installing the gasket

Just worrying about the head gasket i've fitted now. While checking out ebay i notice Victor Reinz head gasket being sold as different compression to standard.

Could they be referring to the metal version? It is thiner and raises the compression to 10.5:1

You need the "Robert Bently" manual for the Corrado, it's from the States but its comprehensive.

found a cracking schematic of the 6R4 http://www.optical3d.com/wp-content/files_mf/1340181054metrolayout.jpg[/Quote]

That is impressive,! I would love a go on that, whilst being thankful that your not looking at the mantlepiece whilst poking the fire.

"The car had a cat 1 alarm, full lock down security, heated leather seats" ....does that mean that they have been removed :)Nice looking VR anyhow.

D next to S. #facepalm

1.5 litres when it's in the car or 1.9 if you empty it all. I've used fully synth 75W-90 to good effect.

If the above fails, as a last resort chuck some k-seal in. It fixed a weepy head gasket and radiator leak in the misuses Skoda for a couple of years until the rust sent it to the big racetrack in the sky.

Ive got FK highsport but on a MK1 golf and agree with EJ Taylor they are very stiff and but predictable and could drive at the limit all day long on the track. But take it on the road and I was wincing at every pothole.

Golf mk4 anniversary handbrake for the win.

Polo Coupe S steering wheel non leather part number 867 419 091 N manufactured July '90 Very good condition, no visible damage or wear.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291275505976%20

Leather steering wheel part number 867 419 675 C manufactured June '92 Very good condition, stitching perfect, some tiny wear marks.

SOLD

VR6 non leather steering wheel part number 1H0 419 091E manufactured June '93 no visible damage or wear.

Does not have the horn ring on the back.

SOLD

If you can turn it over by hand it's unlikely to be over tensioned especially as you haven't bleed the bolt.

Read this;

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=3520

Post 11 is how to bleed the bolt.

When I did mine the seal inside the bolt had a nick in it, requiring a new bolt.

Installed new Bremi leads today imported from Germany.

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They are supposed to be OEM, but they don't work well with the Corrado HT lead tool. The rubber above the metal shield is a bit too wide for the tool, but it does fit with perseverance. Nice extra insulation where the accelerator cable crosses the leads though.

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Did you change the tappets with the cams?

Have you had the tensioner bolt out?

If so did you fill them with oil first?

You should bleed and pre-fill the bolt to the correct level before installing. If there is air in the bolt, the chains will be too loose causing them to slap around. If the bolt is too full there will be too much tension on the chains, which makes the engine difficult to turn and also sounds awful.

Maybe try running with the MAF but without the BMC. I know it may be possible to run the engine without the MAF but not until the ECU has learnt it's adaptations.

Also, try this;

http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5943

This is also worth a look;

Can anyone help me regarding two issues i have with the above points.

 

Purple/white wire, somebody has chopped the connector and cable and used it to join other wires together. does this have to run through the fuse board, or can i just join from the golf loom straight to the clock loom?

Purple/white is for the MPG readout. It goes straight from the ECU to the clocks.

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Grey wire for odb - the corrado section of the loom is long gone, was previously a 1.8t and whoever fitted this removed the cable for some reason. where should the input go from the golf loom into the connector block behind the center console?

Yes.

Also having trouble getting it into 5th when cold but goes in fine when fully warmed up. Is it Just an adjustment to selector tower or more expensive fault?

Welcome, there is adjustment under the shift boot in the car and also on cable end at the gearbox.

I think the cable adjustment you need is bolt c in the car or bolt b under the bonnet, best mark the position before adjustment.

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A change of gear box oil may help, fully synthetic 75W90 GL-4.