Jump to content

science

Legacy Donators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    525

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by science

  1. Posted

    Been doing a bit of spannering tonight and noticed a small blue plug at the right hand side of my fuse box.

     

    It has a single white/blue wire to it but nowhere obvious for it to plug.

     

    Anyone know what it is?

     

    Sounds like its from vehicle speed sensor connector block. The 4 way block on top of the fuse box distributes the VSS feed, and is normally full, one of the plugs has an extension, I think this is your plug.

  3. Posted

    I've got one of these had it ceramic coated before fitting and IMHO;

     

    Good points;

    Midrange and top end improved,

    Better throttle response,

    Cheap,

    Looks good.

     

    Bad points

    Cat pipe needed modifying to allow room for the two bolts from the manifold,

    Needed heat resistant silicone to seal the flange properly,

    Doesn't allow fitness of original heat shield (although I think the design could have changed),

    Reduces the VR6 warble sound.

  9. Posted · Edited by science

    Some info that might help;

    http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/golfmk3VR6OBD2.pdf

    So coolant pump (v50) has Red/Black and Brown/Green wiring.

    and

    http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2engineloomdiagram1.pdf

    http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2engineloomdescription.pdf

    and

    http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2injectionloomdiagram.pdf

    http://www.lwright.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/images/VR/odb2injectionloomdescription.pdf

  10. Posted

    I changed the outer rod ends when the hubs were off the car. Not the right way to do it as you can't get good leverage and they were seized solid, took two massive stillsons wrenches to get them off. Better to split them from the locking nut first. I replaced them with stainless.

  11. Posted · Edited by science

    If you have a list of the wire colours and the year the golf loom is from, I could look up the info you need.

     

    Is this for a corrado obd2 conversion?

    Are they all 2 pin plugs except no.4, 1 pin and no. 7 4 pin?

     

    I think;

    no. 1 may be the wiper motor plug?

  12. Posted · Edited by science

    Do i buy this?

     

    http://www.carsparkplugs.com/1x-0221503002-bosch-ignition-coil.html#.UwHgNPl_tik

     

    Yeah if you want to buy new. The coil pack is solid compared to the fragile VR6 ones. Its commonly the plastic bits that fail and that bit goes in the bin with this mod. IMHO, use the Beru stuff but, you will need spade connectors and a longer pigtail, your terminals will be on the top.

     

    Also what is that bit of wiring with the four wires and a plug on it from?

     

    The pigtail is from an audi, connects to an ignition igniter control unit, 4A0905351, also see post #14.

     

    Found some useful info for those trying this from the used approach.

    Part Numbers;

    * BOSCH: 0221503002

    * FERRARI: 165854

    * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 1208068

    * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 90358386

    * VAUXHALL/OPEL: 90444184

    * SAAB: 47 70 046

    * SCANIA: 4770046

    * TOYOTA: 90080? 19005?

     

    * Opel - VECTRA A - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Opel - VECTRA A Hatchback - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Opel - OMEGA B - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Opel - OMEGA B - 3.0 V6 - 1994-2001 - 211hp - 2962cc

    * Opel - OMEGA B Estate - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Opel - OMEGA B Estate - 3.0 V6 - 1994-2001 - 211hp - 2962cc

    * Opel - CALIBRA A - 2.5 i V6 - 1993-1997 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Saab - 900 Mk II - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Saab - 900 Mk II Convertible - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Saab - 900 Mk II Coupe - 2.5 -24 V6 - 1993-1998 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Vauxhall - CAVALIER Mk III - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Vauxhall - CAVALIER Mk III Hatchback - 2.5 V6 - 1993-1995 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Vauxhall - OMEGA - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Vauxhall - OMEGA - 3.0 V6 - 1994 - 211hp - 2962cc

    * Vauxhall - OMEGA Estate - 2.5 V6 - 1994-2000 - 170hp - 2498cc

    * Vauxhall - OMEGA Estate - 3.0 V6 - 1994 - 211hp - 2962cc

    * Vauxhall - CALIBRA - 2.5 i V6 - 1993-1997 - 170hp - 2498cc

  15. Posted

    Cheers guys, i will check out Scottish Vag. I'm living up here for a few months at least. I quite like the idea of a 1.8T, but I fear the engine will want to find its way into my Mk 1 Golf.

  16. Posted

    Wanted any VAG group/Skoda/Seat banger for cheap runabout while the Corrado is off the road. Should have 6 months min ticket left and be under £1000 in the Scotland- Glasgow area. Cheers.

  23. Posted · Edited by science

    Why no to the head skimming? I assume because if you get it skimmed it would lower the compression slightly? I was debating using one of the metal head gaskets from the MK4 US VR6's but they're quite costly, but being metal I would assume they will last a lot longer.

     

    My job for this weekend is going to be cleaning up the bottom end ready for the new gasket if I decide to do it straight away, but I think I'm going to get the head work done first and leave the gasket set till I've had all my parts done and I've sorted out the engine bay a bit, it's crazy how much that inlet manifold hides. Also going to remove the old aircon pump which is no longer used to save a bit of weight.

     

    Has anyone on here fitted the 1.8T intake temprature sensor? I believe the VR6 one is prone to heavy heat soak and this is a good option to to help eliminate that.

     

    I think the reason not to skim is that if to much material gets taken off if increases the risk valve piston collision if your timing is slightly out. There was a guy on eBay (doctor_car) selling the metal HG for around £26 you just have to search for the Elring part number (401.820) or you can get a Victor Reinz one delivered from the states for £47 for taxes. Some people relocate the the temperature sensor to the air box to run the 1.8T sensor.

  24. Posted

    I need to start getting everything ready to put back together, got loads of other jobs to do though as well like replacing fuel lines

     

    I'm gonna clean the pistons this weekend I think but I'm gonna check how heavy the carbon build up is, I assume of the engine has been serviced with good oil regular and hasn't been running rich it shouldn't be too heavy?

     

    Been qouted £114 to have my head skimed, pressure tested and if it needs it the valves seating, £90 if no valve work needs doing

     

    That seems like a good price for the work, I would avoid having the head skimmed if you can though. The pistons look pretty normal to me. I would spend a good amount of time making sure the mating surface on the block is clean and flat, it's quite likely to need a metal blade scraper or Stanley blade to remove the residue and corrosion, just don't scratch it. I've used carplan "get your gasket off spray" from Euro Car Parts to help do this as it also removes carbon deposits but it seems expensive these days.

  25. Posted

    IMHO unless your going to strip the engine I wouldn't use scotch-brite, wire wool or a steel wire brush just in case bits break off and get missed with the compressed air. I have used a brass brush to good effect instead which is softer and easier to spot any bits that have broken off.

×
×
  • Create New...