![](http://the-corrado.net/uploads/set_resources_1/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
science
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Posts posted by science
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I would like one of the Koni adjusters please.
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Received today, many thanks!
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I'll take the rear bumper please, pm'd.
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Cheers Dave, that's some good info. Did you make a twist adapter like the one in the link;
[ATTACH]78499[/ATTACH]
I was trying to make an adaptor without the twist. Haven't got around to fitting yet should be a couple of weeks till I know.
Do you have any other engine mods, cams ect?
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OK thanks for that, the good news is that I have all of those bits, just I'm not too sure with the alterations I've made to my loom from the fusebox...would be great to see what you've done with yours...No probs, It's going to take a couple of days to write up from my notes. If anything needed has been chopped, I'm sure it can be replaced.
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I'll explain as best as I possibly can what Ive got and whats been done...Ive got an OBD1 in my rado which I am swapping for a turbo'd OBD2 engine from a mk3 Golf. The engines have been sapped over, and im trying to work out the looms from the fusebox to the engine. Ive been through the how to fit thread but have got stuck as some of the original loom ffrom the mk3 has also been removed... so this is where im at and what ive heard...OBD1 loom from the fuse box into the bay has been removed, OBD2 loom from golf has been cut apart following the guide (I am not at all confident Ive done it right) so what ive heard is that you can use the OBD1 loom to run the OBD2 engine and OBD2 ECU as long as the inlet manifold and throttle body get swapped back from the OBD1 engine? does that make sense? and is it right? Is it that simple??
If you are going to use the OBD2 ECU, you need to use the OBD2;
throttle body,
manifold,
engine loom,
harness from Fuse Box to ECU and front engine harness.
I'm just writing up a mini-guide to how I adapted the harness, will post here later.
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I'm running a 24 valve and there is less slack on the leads
I think the distributer version of the leads are longer.
Check this thread;
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Also, cheapest place to buy these (except the ebay seller who accepted my "offer" of £50, then sent me the wrong one, then couldn't find the proper one and refunded my money!!!)ishttp://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/vauxhall.php?partnumber=0221503002
Can't comment on performance yet as I cleaned my MAF a bit too much and cleaned it to brokeness
That's a great price!
I need one of these for an Omega as it happens.
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No worries Science,yeah mines the ****ty Beru one,
interesting that it's "Operating temperature range at outer core -20 to 120°C" gets quite hot in a vr6 engine bay and being bolted to the engine, I've ordered some phenolic washers to stand it off the engine by 7mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141263556397?var=440371780463&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I might think about slimming down the heat sink as the ignition leads are tight (short) even without the spacers
Good idea, I'm using one of these;
http://www.verdictmotorsports.com/Volkswagen_12v_VR6_Coil_Insulator_Saver_low_temp_p/0137.htm
You can see it's the brown plate in the picture above.
Still no problem fitting the leads, maybe they are a different make/length.
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I think this is wrong, I've just fitted one to my 24V engine and followed this diagram, although my connector is at the top, I wired it up with the 12v to the pin furthest away from the blue sticker, the 3 remaining contacts are just controlling the corresponding pair of coils, 1&6, 3&4, 2&5.anyway started her up and splutered and popped, did some checking with the meter and found that the connector NEAREST the blue label is 12V supply, I ended up moving the all 1 place along, fired up no problem.
So to sumerise, when you fit one with the connector on top,
Just connect them to the corresponding terminals,
far left ICU to far left coilpack
middle left ICU to middle left coilpack
middle right ICU to middle right coilpack
far right ICU to far right coilpack
IGNORE THE NEW COILPACK CYLINDER NUMBERS
Sorry you've had problems, I've checked the data sheet and you are right.
Should look like this;
[ATTACH=CONFIG]78373[/ATTACH]
↑ This only works for the base Bosch coilpack 0 221 603 447 ↓ or similar
[ATTACH=CONFIG]78374[/ATTACH]
If in doubt follow continuity from here;
][ATTACH=CONFIG]78375[/ATTACH]
I suspect your coilpack with the connectors on the top may be a beru one?
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If the engine loom side is OK, the twist lock connector could be held in place with a couple of socket cap screws if you drill and tap the metal bracket above and below the connector.
Otherwise you can de-pin and use your existing OBD1 connectors, plus you could also use the big rubber boot on the OBD1 harness which the OBD2 looms don't seem to have.
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sorry Neil - you did give me the drawing for the adapter. I've got one fab'd up just need to check fitment when i put all of my stuff together and i'll then get some made up for the forum.Hey, no problem, these things take time.
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They sound like the regrind version mate.
Schimmel cams don't have a VW stamp, just some other letters stamped on them.
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For those still interested in this, I've got the 2.9 OBD1 manifold on but I've had to fabricate another throttle cable mounting bracket as it's not right for the rotation of the throttle body. Just need to bolt it on, re-assemble and test drive.I'll update later with photo's as there are some things that aren't right with this conversion.
Cheers Dave, that would be good, I'm attempting this next month. Are you using the obd1 or obd2 throttle cable mounting bracket?
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Thanks!
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Should take between 2 and 2.5 seconds to shut completely allowing time for the Idle stabilisation valve to then kick in.
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How about this one;
eBay item: 221292005131
VW Golf 2.8 VR6 ECU 021 906 256 021906256 0261203968969 0 261 203 96
Will prob have immobiliser though, what kind of problems do you have?
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After 2 of these please.
Just the bit on the left...
[ATTACH]78307[/ATTACH]
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Ok as promised here are the notes from my OBD2 conversion -I’ve made the notes below as there were some slight differences in my Golf obd2 loom to the loom described earlier in this guide. You should follow the above guide as normal and refer to my notes if required.
On my obd2 loom there was a large 12 pin Black connector which wasn’t mentioned in any guides I’ve read. Don’t worry if you don’t have this connector as the wiring will have been delt with earlier in this guide. After removing connectors as per the above guide you should be left with 3 wires which I’ve identified as going to the ECU. In this photo Golf loom on the left, Corrado on the right. You need to remove the connectors from the Corrado loom and join them as shown. These will then plug into the Corrado fusebox.
I'm pretty sure the 12pin connector is for a cruise control ECU, will post part numbers later to confirm.
I have a loom similar to this also without the ambient air temperature sensor and an early golf loom which has it, maybe something to do with the later climatonic system?
The early golf loom seems less trouble.
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Interested in all the body parts, or whatever is left.
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It's worth turning the engine over by hand after refitting the tensioner bolt, it's possible to overfill the bolt with oil making it difficult to turn by hand. This is much easier to get right with the rocker cover off.
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Ive found that the eBay ones require glue or tape to stay in place.
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Polish for exhaust
in General Car Chat
Posted
Depends how cruddy it is. Mine was awful so i used very fine emery tape. Loop it round the can and add a blob of polish then work away. Comes up in no time.