Bazmcc

I think I've just developed a bloody louding ticking noise. It goes away when i hold it at 1500 rpm. It only seems to tick loud when I'm accelerating when it's out on the road. Otherwise it's perfectly smooth and quiet. Can anyone tell if I have a busted lifter just by the sound? or is it something to do with the 4 branch. Click below for the video.

Got it from a forum member on here. I think I gave him £140 delivered. It was brand new and still in the wrapping. Very well made piece of kit too.

I just put a 4 branch manifold/decat onto my 1994 9a. I've noticed for a start it's louder but it's not too bad. But I have a few questions. How much power is it actually likely to add (I have a catback milltek behind it)? Will my fuel consumption suffer? Will I need to put a CAT in for MOT? Can I fit a CAT between the 4 branch and the first silencer? Do I just leave the O2 sensor out of the equation completely? Will it run ok without a sensor plugged in? Will I fail emissions? Sorry for the barage of questions but this is the best place to ask.

I'll take it off tonight and have a look at it. The engine is a 9a.

I'm not sure what this problem is but it's been bad for the last week or 2. I think the starter might need rebuilding. Sometimes when I turn the key I just get a real sort of groaning/grinding noise and the engine doesn't turn over. When I release the key I hear a bit of a clunk, then it usually starts as normal when I try again. Is there a test I can do to check the starter? Is it maybe something else that's doing this?

Guys I've decided to just got for good old silver. I just need to get the right silver. It'll probably be the same as the porsche twists which is like a satin silver. They always seem to have a real nice finish so hopefully I can do something similar. Just need to get some spares on for a few days to get them done. Might even wait until the xmas hols so I have some time off.

Cheers for the suggestions. I've not really been a fan of dark wheels either usually but I think the big wide spokes on the TT comps work quite well. I had thought about doing the faces silver and the inside of the spokes colour matched but I'm still not sure. I run the risk of it just looking like the wheels are dirty with brake dust all the time. However, might be worth getting a spray tin and doing a test run on one to see how it looks. 8vMatt - TT comps fit over R32 brakes. We test fitted them. They're one of very few 17" wheels that clear them. A friend did a little photoshop job for me with black wheels, tinted headlights and tinted indicators and fog lights. Here's my Bora.

I just found out what the deal was. The VR6 bushings and bearings are listed seperately so that's what the difference is. Mine are £40 per side I think and the bearing is part of the bushing just like the ones I have now. Part number for 1994 2.0 16v. 357 412 329

I currently have TT comps on my car and could do with a bit of a refurb. 1 has a bit of a gouge in the paint where I dropped an exhaust on it way back when I first got them. When I bought them there was a few light kerb marks on a couple of them so I've decided it's time to get them painted as soon as I decide on a colour. I'm not fussed on really bright colours as the car is all black and Twilight violet. I don't want to polish them either as I have fully polished CCWs on my Bora and don't want another set of polished wheels to look after. Any suggestions for colours?

Are you sure about that? I'll check with my local dealer now to see what the deal is with his prices. Was that for the normal Corrado ones or did they quote you for MK4 ones? I know for a fact that they don't fit my car so I could do with ones the same as the old ones.

I sent my mate to get my upper strut bearings and bushings from the dealer and he came back with MK4 bearings and bushings for the front of my corrado? The dealer said the old Corrado parts had been super seeded by these. I thought this seemed a bit odd as they're a fairly different looking part. I have Gmax shocks and springs in my car but the top spring plate is the same as the standard one as far as I know so there shouldn't be any fitting issues To cut a long story short, there's no way in hell I can see that these things are going to fit in my car. Am I missing something? Do I need a different part to adapt them to work with my car? Any help would be great because I want to get my dodgy suspension sorted asap.

Thanks to this thread I discovered my passengers side top mount is mangled. And pretty badly too. The drivers side isn't far behind. Can anyone confirm if there's a certain version of the top mounts that last longer than the others? Tomorrow I'm going to order new bearings and top mounts and want to make sure I don't waste money.

Mine was the same for quite a while. I Just decided it was time to try and sort it out. My advice is to actually unbolt it from the gearbox and check and see if the pin drops out of it. I'm not sure if it's a failsafe method of testing it but on mine it allowed me to see the mess of the seals inside.

I had this problem for a while. Last week we tried to bleed the clutch in the case that it was maybe air in the line. It didn't work at all and about 100 yards after the clutch was bled the clutch pedal finally gave up and hit the floor. Solution: The slave cylinder was dead. When I took it out the pin basically just fell out of the middle of the cylinder. The internals of the cylinder were a bit mashed looking when I looked in. New slave cylinder is in now and the pedal is back as new and the biting point is much higher as well making the car easier to drive. Thought I would share this in case anyone else has the same problems. If you clutch isn't springing back up all the way it's only a matter of time.

Problem solved. Needed a new sunroof motor.

This is a wire left over from a 2.9VR6 conversion on a MK2 golf. Where should it go? It's from the main engine loom as far as I can see.

not yet. I can give it a go. If I plug the spare motor in without fitting it I suppose I'd at least be able to rule it out if does the same thing.

Tried another switch and I'm having the same problem. Also when I tilt the sunroof and I can't get it back down I have to manually wind it down into closed position. But when I do that, put the tab into the operational position and I get out and lock the car the sunroof opens about half an inch. What's going on there?

OK, here's my interior woes. I'm just wondering if it's a common problem to have a faulty sunroof switch? My switch has went on me a couple of times and this time I think it's dead. I can tilt the sunroof without any problems but I can't close it again or slide it back. It's had new cables and been rebuilt mechanically by the way so I know it's al electrical problem. So is this more likely to be the motor or the switch? AND Lights don't come on when I open the doors. Little bit of a problem at night. More of a niggle than problem really. The boot light seems to work fine. Is there a known problem here or something I can check easily?

I'll take one of these too. PM with payment details and I'll get you paid up as soon as possible.