Bazmcc

I'll check the fuel pump and relay when I get home. I had kind of ruled them out though as the car can be driven at full tilt as normal for the 20 or 25 seconds that it's running correctly. When it's running badly I can put the throttle to the floor and it'll splutter and chug for a bit and eventually make it's way up to about 2.5Krpm but still runs like crap. When I take my foot off it returns to the very low revs and spluttering. ---------- Post added at 03:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21 PM ---------- I haven't tried that yet but will have a look when I get home. I cleaned out the metering head a few months back when I was cleaning the throttle body. It appeared to be fine but i'll unplug it and check later.

It's all gone quiet....... Has anyone got any ideas?

I've seen a dodgy fuel pump relay cause similar problems like this on more than one occassion.

I need some help with this one. I can start the car no problem and it will run flawlessly for 20 - 25 seconds and then the idle will suddenly drop right down to 4 or 500 rpm and splutters and chugs and even with the throttle open it won't pick up the idles again. But it will continue to run. It does not cut out. If I turn the ignition off and turn the car back on again it will start easily again and run as normal for another 20 seconds or so before doing the same thing. The car has recorded no faults at all, not even a misfire, no sensors out of range etc. All vac lines are plugged in where they should be and the isv appears to be perfectly functional. Throttle body is perfectly clean. Airbox and plate is spot on, clean and moving freely. My first suspicion was that it might be a faulty cam sensor or something which might be adjusting the timing or somthing but I would have assumed it would show a fault of some kind. Any ideas of what to check or how to test some bits would be good.

Bit of a thread revival here. Complete rebuild done on the starter and it's still doing it. Teeth on the starter were fine when I took it out but I had it rebuilt anyway as there was a little wear and it was a bit tattered. Click below to see the video. On 3 seconds you hear the sort of grind and churn noise. On 4 seconds you hear 2 clunks when i release the key. On the second turn it starts no problem. Sorry the sound is a bit crap you'll need to turn it up.

dunno mate. Set the 2 boxes side by side and see if the pipes line up.

The expansion valve should be workable. You might need to twist a few pipes into shape to get it to fit exactly though.

So you want to transplant a MK4 system into the Corrado? Does the mk4 airbox even fit behind a rado dash? I have the test rig wiring setup noted at home. I can post it up for you.

Yip i've done the wiring diagrams for most people. But I have even more accurate diagrams now from my own install. As I can use parts of existing wiring. I just need to make a list of parts needed for the rado before I can start working on it. I want to have all the parts prepped and ready to go for a 1 or 2 day install if I can. I think it should be more straight forward than the bora as I don't need the ac system.

I'm already doing a full conversion on my Bora and have 2 airboxes and 2 or 3 looms. But I assume only the seat leon parts are what I need to fit with the corrado.

After a quick search I found this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?39281-SEAT-Leon-Climatronic Hopefully I can route through this and find what I need. Looks like I can just swap ducting and the control panel. Time to go on a hunt for parts.

Yes the electronic airbox without the AC is exactly the way i'd like to do it. I just want to get rid of the crappy fragile control panel and the cables. They broke twice in my old mk3 as well.

My heater control panel is a disaster. Basically I've broken my original one, got one out of a corrado I broke a while back to find is was mashed and broken too, tried a B3 passat set of controls only to find it was brittle as biscuit and lasted about a week. So, I need to sort out my heater control panel. And as I'm in the middle of a climatronic swap on my Bora I was thinking that it would be good to have electronic control on the corrado airbox too. So, how many people have installed climatronic in their corrado? Did it come on any models as standard? Can a MK3 golf climatronic setup be used? Would it be possible to motorise the flaps only without having to install AC?

OK, so my corrado has decided to gather together and few faults and throw them all at me at the same time. Current mods. Engine 9a KR exhaust cam 4 branch manifold and decat (O2 sensor removed) 50mm inlet manifold Milltek cat back exhaust Here's my list of current problems. If anyone can shed any light on any of them I'd be greatful. I have vag-com and have done a few scans too. 1. Speedo isn't working. I scanned it last night and it said engine speed sensor. After clearing the fault and taking it for a drive the speedo still wasn't working so I expected the speed sensor to show a fault again but it didn't. The rev counter, fuel and temp gauges still work. The spoiler doesn't rise at 55 either. Both rear ABS Sensors were showing a fault but when they were cleared and the car taken for a drive they didn't reappear. I assumed it might have had something to do with getting stuck in the snow at xmas. 2. I have 2 permanent faults showing up for the airflow meter and idle control sensor. Has anyone got a how to on fixing, cleaning, or replacing etc? I don't want to replace it if it only maybe needs a tweak or a clean. When the fault is cleared on vag com it clears and comes back instantly. This normally suggests to me a wiring fault or something is stuck. 3. When I get in the car to start it first thing from cold, I have to turn the key as normal to hear a whine, then as i let it off there's a click/clunk from the starter and then I can start it as normal on the second turn. 4. My engine mounts are feeling the force of 157K miles. I've been reading up about engine mounts but can't find to many places who stock a lot of the mounts people mention in the threads. Is anyone on here making solid front mounts? And can I use MK2 diesel mounts or VR6 mounts for the other 2? Other than these niggles the car seems to run perfectly, possibly a little rich but performance is spot on/quite good.

I'm running all my mods on a completely stock ECU. I don't intend to have it mapped until I have everything bolted onto it and my engine mounts replaced. pumbaa - won't having both cams at 226 cause too much over-lapping? Quick off topic question. Where is anyone buying throttle body gaskets?

OK so I'll leave the 9a exhaust cam as it is then and just fit the KR inlet cam. I'll probably put the 50mm inlet on tonight and see how that runs. I should be able to get the cam fitted during the xmas holidays.

Well I don't intend on changing my head or block. My corrado is a daily driver with a few tweaks so I was hoping to find out what the best cam combination was on an otherwise standard set of 9a internals. It appears that most testing a trails have been done on KR engines. Would this be correct? It feels like a lot more people have KRs than 9as.

Any more info on this subject? I have a 9a and want to upgrade the cams to go with my 4 branch manifold, decat, milltek, and 50mm intake manifold. My car has lost a bit of power since fitting the 4 branch. I think I might be overfueling slightly. Here's what I've got on the ABF and KR cams. Has anyone got figures on the 9a cams? ABF Cams: Intake Cam: Duration 219 deg @ 1mm, 10.8mm maximum valve lift Exhaust Cam: 220 deg @ 1mm, also 10.8mm maximum valve lift KR cams: Intake: Duration: 218 @ 1mm, 9.6mm lift Exhaust: Duration: 226 @ 1mm, 10.21mm lift Going by this info is it possible or reccomended to mix and match these. For example, an abf intake cam with a kr exhaust cam? I've been told to maybe just fit the ABF cams. I have KR cams sitting in my garage but I know where there's a set of ABFs for little money too. Any advice would be great. I have another RR day or 2 coming up in january and february so I can keep check on my results.

Maybe MK3 TDI with a G60 flywheel and VR6 clutch would suit you better? But you could go with a Helix 5 paddle and G60 flywheel.

Digging up this engine mount thread as my engine is rocking all over the place at the minute. It's causing a few issues including stress on the exhaust joints and as I have a 4 branch it's rattling off stuff now as well. I'm leaning towards a solid or stiff poly front mount and not sure what to do with the rears. I don't want to be blowing a stupid amount of money either as this is my daily driver. What's everyone's recommendations?

go to the vwvortex and check out the fabrication forum. Also do a search on the vortex for dry sump systems. I'm pretty sure a company over in the states make a full system for the 2.0 8v or 16v. I can't remember which.

Any decent engineer would be able to churn out an exact copy of a VW stub axel at a fraction of the price. I destroyed one when a bearing basically blew itself in pieces without warning.

I understand. I'd have thought the spring would have made them all contact the cam the same. but I suppose if the lifter is sunk in the center then that contact patch will change. I have a spare set of KR cams in the garage so I think it's time for that timing belt and cam change.

Would there be any reason it only does it at idle and when I'm accellerating?

My heater fan isn't working at all. I've tried cleaning the contacts on the switch on the dash. Checked fuse 6 (is this correct for the fan?). But to be honest I'm a bit lost as to what to do. Can anyone explain if there's a handy quick way to check if the fan is still functional by applying power directly? I can imagine that it's a fairly simple circuit but I don't know too much about it yet. Is there a relay involved somewhere?