Bazmcc

I'm looking into completely changing all the old soundproofing at the bulkhead and behind the dash. Isn't the dynamat quite pricey though?

I have black plastic sheeting for moisture membranes for house flooring. However, not much sticks to it so it might be a mission getting it to stay on. This might require some experimenting. Butyl rubber would actually be a good solution and would be somewhat good for sound dampening too.

The sealant on mine definitely isn't original. It's a right mess. It'll take me a while cleaning it all off. I'll make sure it's sorted before the car is allowed out to play again. Foam sheet.... sounds a bit pourous.

Has anyone had to replace these? I'm guessing they contribute to soundproofing pretty well and I'm like to put something decent into my doors to keep noise down. The plastic sheeting has been bodged at some stage in the past and half stuck on with silicon sealant. It's made a right mess. There are rips and tears in the plastic too. So can the originals still be bought with adhesive on them or is there a better alternative?

Did a little work this morning with fitting all the dash parts and working on the side panels. There's a threaded stud on the door which fouls the side panels and simply needs to be shortened a bit. The pic below shows the top threaded stud which has been shortened. It also shows all the silicone crap that some muppet has used to stick the plastic lining on with and made a right mess. That's a problem I need to solve and clean up and work out a tidy solution for it. And this is the dash fitted with everything bolted on except the steering column stuff. The list of new tasks and changes to the existing list: Remount relay holder at passengers side above aribox. Fix or replace broken relay holder. Reroute wiring loom to passengers side behind airbox. Extend steering rack to fit standard column mounts. Measure up steering rack. Make brackets to fit bottom of rack to pedal box. Buy clip to replace broken one on bonnet latch pull. Test fit the airbox to dash vent adapter (big bit on the front of the airbox) and measure it as it needs to be modified and extended to clear the crossmember. Fit wiring guides to cross member for running looms through. Look into better soundproofing to replace the old sagging crap in the car already. Suss out a solution to the plastic sheeting needing replaced in the doors. Trim the side panels in the dash to allow the doors to close without fouling them. Test fit the center console for the shifter. Mark center console position. Drop out the shifter box and take to the engineer. Test fit handbrake surround/rear center console. And all that wiring.....

The holes were filed out using a round file. Then a test fit to mark out the elongated holes on the brackets so I know where to drill. This was obviously done on both sides. And then it was bolted up using 10mm M6 bolts, washers on both sides and lock nuts. All stainless steel fixings. And that's the crossmember fully fitted. I'll post pics of how it looks with the dash on. Everything fits like it should. That's the main fitting out of the way. Lots more to do though. And because it was after midnight and I had nothing better to do I was wondering where the spoiler button might go. I checked to see if it would fit into one of the dash blacks so I cut a hole through one. I'm not so sure about the fitting but it might work if I could maybe use the front of another one to close the gaps around the edges. It's sideways as well but that doesn't really bother me.

Got a bit of work done yesterday. My first job was to sort out the 2 central mounting places. I had to make 1 small alteration to the top bar. As you can see below I've had to put another kink into it. This means that it's about 3/4 of an inch too far away from the hole where the original dash was. Easily sorted with a couple of bits of plastic used as spacers. That's just bolted done with an M8 bolt, a couple of washers and an M8 locking nut. Next I cut the doorcards so they could be fitted to the doors with the dash in. I'm still undecided on how they'll be finished but I'll worry about that in due course. As you can see there isn't much room. This is why it's important to have everything centered properly. Next was to deal with the lower mount that attachs to the tunnel. I wanted to try and fit this with an easy option of removing it without having to drop the heatshielding under the car each time. Yes, you will have to take the front part down to fit the bolt or nut for this one. I got a double sided threaded bolt here. I think it came off a gearbox or something, really can't remember. I shorted both ends to match what I needed as it only has to go through 1 sheet of metal on each side. Hole drilled through the tunnel, bolted in and then the bracket fitted and the carpet with an 'L' slice to wrap it around. Quick test fit before the proper head scratching started. Then as I hadn't decided yet about the mounts for the sides, I went and done another part to keep me busy. I bought another lower mk4 steering column for £10 to experiment with. I had to make the cuts where the column had to be extended. This is the roller bearing on the inside of the U shaped bracket that attaches to the rack. Easy to put them back into place so don't worry if they fall out like this. All done. This is ready to go to the engineer. Then suddenly I had a wee flash of inspiration. I wanted to mount the dash side brackets causing as little fuss as possible and try to avoid any major cutting and welding. I'd been debating in my head about how I could use the existing brackets and I just worked out how it could be done. A couple of crafty snips and I had a place on the brackets that could be bent. But I needed to mark and snip out that bubble in the middle so it could be bent flat where I wanted it. These were cut using a dremel. Simple as that. This could be welded up to strengthen it but I don't think there's any real need. The bent metal meets the crossmember perfectly. But we need to mark out where the holes are and extend the existing holes in the bar brackets so we can get bolts through the 2 bits of metal.

If it's the same as the mk4 golf it fits the splines but the wheels sits way to high and leaves about a 2" gap between the back of the wheel and the steering column plastics.

Wiring looms aren't actually too bad when you get them all seperated out. It's not actually a kit that can be bought altogether as far as I'm aware. I've worked with wiring and electronics for years so I've gathered up lots of tools. For braiding work I need the following stuff. A terminal removal set. Heat shrick wrap of various different sizes. Expandable braided sleeving of various different sizes. And a heatgun. Also I have my general soldering kit of various tapes, 4 different strength soldering irons, solder, soldering stands, flux, wiper nippers, solder sucker, etc etc etc.

Got a little bit of braiding done tonight before running out of the sizes I need. it's a time consuming process. Here's what I started with. It's the loom for the lighting, the horn, the washer bottle, coolant and brake bottle sensors, etc. They're not all seperated and ready for braiding. Reduced to only the lighting section of the loom. And this is the head unit speaker wiring finished. I'll be back to get stuck into it properly this weekend again.

Sorry for the lack of updates. Been really really busy. I'll get back at it and get some more of the wiring sorted later hopefully. Here's a little addition to the wiring. It's a simple one for the MK4 airbox connector. This is the standard MK4 wiring connections. As you can see that'll be easy enough to transfer over from the corrado one. I'll probably make a seperate link loom for this to tidy up the oem dash loom. T10j (The large 10 pin connector on the MK4 airbox loom) 1. -> 2.5, sw/bl - 25A Fuse number 25 (S225) (main power for fan) 2. -> 0.5, bl/ro - Radiator fan controller T14/8 (comes from AC switch connector T8b/1) 3. -> 0.5, gr/bl - illumination 4. -> 0.5, sw/bl - 7.5A fuse number 5 (main power for switches)

Sorry for the slight hold up. I spent most of the weekend cleaning parts and piddling about with wiring in the engine bay. I thought I might as well sort out the bay wiring while I was doing this as it all has to be routed behind the dash anyway. For example the radiator and fan loom braided and made to fit across the firewall and down the front wing rather than out at that ridiculous place above the clutch pedal and across the enging bay and down the near side chassis leg. Here is how I think a couple of the MK4 dash switches should be wired. Someone can jump in and correct these if you feel they might be wrong. Bear in mind this is still incomplete and there will be plenty of gaps to fill. MK4 headlight switch 1 -> Rado light switch X 2 -> 15A fuse -> Rado light switch X 4 -> Rado light switch 56 7 -> Rado light switch 56 8 -> Rado Fog switch pin 1 9 -> Rado Fog switch pin 6 10 -> Rado light switch 31 13 -> Rado light switch 58L 14 -> Rado light switch 58R 15 -> Rado light switch 30 16 -> Rado light switch 58e 17 -> Rado light switch 58b MK4 rear window heater switch 1 -> Rado rear window heater switch pin 3 2 -> Rado rear window heater switch pin 4 5 -> Rado rear window heater switch pin 1 6 -> Rado rear window heater switch pin 2 MK4 hazard switch 1 -> MK4 left stalk T12/5 2 -> Rado Hazard Switch pin 7 3 -> Rado Hazard Switch pin 3 5 -> Illumination 6 -> Earth 7 -> 10A fuse -> relay panel screw 30 8 -> 15A fuse -> relay panel screw 30

It'll be in and out a good few times before it's all done. The airbox can now be lifted out in about 2 minutes or less. lol. All the stuff about the matrix is back a bit. At least it's easily sorted if it craps it's pants and I have about 4 or 5 of them from various different swaps and research. I'll do a search for 87 Jetta 16v and have a look now.

Didn't get a chance to do any real work yesterday. I'll get back at it tonight and full blast assault on it tomorrow. Corrado headlight switch and loom, fog light switches and loom, rear heater switches and loom, full center console loom. I have to say, the center console loom is a right mess. I'll try and simplify or seperate this loom, maybe even split it into 2 or 3 seperate strands. It'll look much better when it's braided and routed properly. This is a list of the parts needed to make up a complete MK4 dash center console. Most of which I have sorted and piled up already. I'll get pics of these later. Radio Cage - 2 different types, one with clip on trim, one with solid black sides. I got the one with the clip on trim. 2 trim side strips. Heater control surround OBD port cover Cupholder - new and old style available - I've gone for new one Something to fill a double DIN gap. I'm going with an OEM mk4 radio and cubby hole. MK4 Dash vents -Golf and Bora ones are different. I've gone with the better looking and illuminated Bora ones. Hazard Light switch Rear window heater switch Center vent blanks x 3 - these are sided so you need to make sure you get 1 left hand one and 2 right hand ones. Headlight switch - 3 different variations available - I got the 1 with both front and back fog light options. Dimmer switch - 2 different versions available. 1 with headlight levelling and dimmer, 1 with just the dimmer. I've got an old one with the headlight adjuster but I'll swap it out for a single dimmer one. The ones with just the dimmer only came on MK4s with Xenons which have automatic headlight levelling. Other than that lot there's the main tunnel center console. The ashtray won't be needed because it won't fit between the center console and the tunnel. I'll try to incorporate a ciggy lighter into the dash somewhere else. The other thing is the fuel cap popper. Obviously this isn't needed so I can always use the switch for something else. Might put the spoiler button on there.

Solid front mount, MK2 TD gearbox mount, and aftermarket engine damper is what you need. I've seen one on a 650bhp VR6 and it stopped it ripping up mounts.

Are those displays not illuminated by surface mounted LEDs beside the LCD? If so it would just be a matter of swapping them by soldering in new ones.

MK4 loom parts are all now stripped and cleaned. This is just to make it easier for me to work with them. Here is a couple of partsv that will come in handy as well. The slip ring which contains the wiring connector for the horn and airbag. Obviously I'll only be using the horn wires. Also there are a set of 3 plastic brackets. The 2 white pieces screw onto either side of the part of the cross member where it comes up through the dash above the steering column and below the clock recess. The black piece sits across the top of the steering column in the same area and these are all used for wiring loom routing to keep it tidy and stop wires getting nipped by the steering column adjustment mechanism. One more thing I wanted to point out was a pair of plastic humps on the underside of the MK4 dash. They clip into a pair of metal clips on the bulkhead of the MK4. I decided to keep them on the dash as they seem to do a good job of setting the dash at a good height to the glass on the corrado. After refitting the dash crossmember to make sure everything was still lined up correctly and centered I test fitted and marked where the ends of the crossmember met the old brackets. I'll be honest, I haven't quite decided on the best way to fix the dash on properly yet but we'll worry about that soon enough. I just made a couple of crude marks on the brackets with a permanent pen. Then I moved onto the wiring work. I thought I might as well try and sort some of it out. If you're going to work on VW wiring this kit below is essential. It's a Schwaben kit but as far as I'm aware Laser make the same or similar kit. Best £30 I've spent out of all my electronic gear. I can pop the pins out of CE1 (early vws) and CE2 onwards connectors with ease. First thing I did was to remove the corrado airbox loom for the fan controls to the resistor pack. This isn't needed as we have the MK4 one already on the new airbox now. Then I moved onto the Speaker loom. I wanted to show this one as it's a basic example of a modification needed to suit the new dash. As you can see we have the speaker plug for the head unit, then wires running to the dash speakers on each side (blue is drivers side, red is passengers side), wires running from the dash speakers and to the connector for the door speakers on each side. There's also a connector there for the wires running to the rear speakers but we don't need to touch it. So what we want to do is adjust this loom to eliminate anything we don't need. As the MK4 dash doesn't have any speakers we need to basically cut off the connectors to and from the dash speakers and simply bridge the gap for the wires to go straight from the head unit to the door speakers. The simplified loom. Easy as that. Now we just have a loom with a connector from the head unit (out of shot below) to the 2 door speaker connectors and the other one to the rear speaker connector (at the top of the pic) which runs down the passengers side. I then removed the main central dash loom and the light switch looms from the dash to the fuse box. I did this for 3 reasons. The fuse box area of a corrado is a right old mess and I want to tidy it up. The looms were hanging in the footwell and were really getting the in the way. And mainly, I can splice the new connectors on the looms much easier when it's out of the car. After each loom is completed and I'm happy with how I can get it routed around the back of the dash I will braid the loom. This is how the loom will look after the nylon braiding has been applied. It's time consuming and requires a few tools but worth it. That's a couple more things knocked off the list. Hopefully I can get a bit more done later.

Didn't really get much done last night but here's a small update. I swapped the cable for the temp control flap. This is the white one on the MK4 airbox that's too short for the swap. Now I could have used a corrado cable that was about 6-8 inches longer and it would have been a perfect length but unfortunately the cables aren't fixed the same as the MK4 ones to the controls. This is a major improvement of the mk4 controls over the mk3 ones. The MK4 cables have a permanently fixed fitting on the tubes of the cables at the heater control end. They're melted onto the tube. It's a simple T shape style fixing that slides and clips into the mk4 controls. So there's no metal clip snapped into place on the control end. We all know how brittle they can be on the MK3 controls and it means that the tube can be unfixed at one end and stops the flaps being operated properly. Here's how the entire box fits in place first as I noticed I hadn't posted pics of it yet. And this is the spare MK4 airbox I nabbed the cable off. You can see the black clip-on fitting on the second pic at the end of the tube. I made sure it was long enough to make a bit of a loop out of. You'll see why a few pics down. This is the cable fixed in place. Now you can see why the cable had to be long enough to loop. A shorter one with the clip on the end would have been better but this will work. Here's the box in place with the loom and cables all connected. I also cut all the connectors I needed off the spare MK4 loom. I'll probably strip and clean all these over the next couple of days and get them ready for splicing. But before joining anything I'll need to reroute all the corrado wiring and take out the airbox controls loom as I'll be using the MK4 one. I still need to suss out the airbox power supply but it should be simple enough. There's only 4 pins and I think 1 of them is for the AC which isn't needed. Headlight and dimmer/range control. Green and Blue cluster. Headlight dipper/flasher and indicator. Ignition switch. Wiper stalk/MFA. Horn/steering lock locator ring. Immobiliser reader coil on barrel. Airbox supply. Hazard switch. Rear window heater. Glove box light. Fuel flap popper. Ashtray light/ciggy lighter. OBD port. I think that's the lot...

Well if you need bits I might have a spare dash and airbox here. I meant to send you the link to this earlier and forgot. I have the corrado bentley at home on the computer as well if you need it but you probably have it already from work. The list of jobs on this has changed slightly. Not much but a bit due to new stuff done and a few discoverys made. Get wiring diagram for MK4 airbox. Strip MK4 switches and wiring needed from spare MK4 loom. Mark out mounting position at A pillars to make brackets to mount crossmember. Remount relay holder at passengers side above aribox. Fix or replace broken relay holder. Reroute wiring loom to passengers side behind airbox. Somehow extend steering rack to fit standard column mounts. Make brackets to fit bottom of rack to pedal box. Buy clip to replace broken one on bonnet latch pull. Extend/replace white cable on MK4 airbox as it's too short due to how far forward the dash center is. Test fit the airbox to dash vent adapter (big bit on the front of the airbox) and measure it as it needs to be modified and extended to clear the crossmember. Fix threaded stud or nut to tunnel to bolt down central crossmember bracket. That's enough to keep me going for starters.

And also with the corrado top window vent adapter on top. The MK4 one doesn't even nearly fit as it's a completely different shape. While I was waiting for the glue to dry earlier I got a couple more things out of the way. This is where I trimmed the middle bracket that fits the main crossmember to the tunnel. I also marked out where the dash met the doorcards. Speaker pod brackets had to be removed to allow the door to close enough. This will be worked on at a later date when everything else it fitted. That's all for now. More coming soon.

Back to making the mounts for the mk4 box. Luckily I happened to have another mk4 airbox here to butcher but if you don't you can just use the bottom threaded hole from the corrado box. I also cut a flat piece of plastic. I used 5mm ABS because it's very very strong and solid and I happen to have some laying about. This is basically to screw onto the airbox as a mount to hold the threaded hole. The reason I'm screwing a piece on it because the mount will be right on the seam of the airbox where it can be split and I don't want to permanently fix that together. The bottom pic is a quick mock up of where it'll go. PLASTIC GLUE: I only use LORD Fusor 142. It's made in the states and it's a dedicated plastic glue and is pretty much the strongest plastic adhesive available. It's the only glue I'd trust for this sort of work but there may be others available. It's strong, cures quickly, can be drilled, sanded, cut about 30 minutes after working with it. However, it's extremely expensive compared to others and requires a dedicated fusor adhesive gun to pump it out of the tubes and mixing tips to make sure it's mixed properly. Here it is all glued up. And also screwed into place on the box. Quick test fit to make sure the hole is in the right place. Then I moved onto sorting out that bottom mounting point. Although this bolt actually lined up it was three quarters of an inch too short to fit exactly where it should be. I used the tube which was cut off the box earlier in the project. I wanted to push this onto the existing mount, and fill it with plastic adhesive and rethread it. Basically this can be made to be exactly the same size as the corrado bottom mount. That makes it fit perfect. See pics below. While I was gluing this I also fixed the top mount in place. I used plastering/drylining scrim cloth for extra reinforcement in the glue to help hold everything solid. Another test fit and everything seems to line up nice. With the box now fitting I wanted to see how well the floor/foot vents fitted to the box. The corrado lower vent adapter looks like it might just match up with the mk4 airbox.

So yesterday I made some more discoverys and made a bit more progress. It would appear it's not a massive amount but it took a lot of fiddling around. The task was to get the wiring figured out for the corrado, which was done in the morning, and to fit the MK4 airbox. First thing was to hold the airbox up in place and mark where the threaded holes needed to go for the double ended screwsto hold the airbox to the firewall. I simply got it into place and put a pencil through the hole as straight as I could and marked the box. It was right at the top edge of the box directly above the existing hole. Another option was to drill the firewall but as you can see the pipes between the ABS controller and servo were exactly where the hole would be and I didn't want the pipes rubbing a threaded stud or nut. So I can use the existing threaded hole on the box if I cut it off and flip it upside down. Shown in the pics below. Then I started thinking about using parts of the corrado box to make mounting easier. I took the heater matrix out to have a look at it. This is the MK4 one out. Looks suspiciously similar to a MK2, 3, Corrado matrix.... Decision made. I'll use the corrado pipes. As you can see from the pics above there's a little more clearance at the top. Box test fitted again and re-marked with where the bolt hole is. This even got me thinking about the other similarities between the Corrado and MK4 parts. Main central airbox. Looks like the fittings are all in the same places and are the same size .... I even compemplated this to make things easier. But that would have been backing out of the project. Not only that, I would loose the recirc flap function and the fan control may be different as the MK4 uses a much bigger fan. IMPORTANT: There are 2 threaded studs on the firewall on the cabin side of the car just where the air intake is in the scuttle panel side. Cut both of these off. They'll just get in the way and stop the box fitting tight. I also had to mark the place for the hole behind the ABS unit on the passengers side. I just marked it with a pencil and cut a notch so it didn't rub off.

Corrado dash wiring list on page 2 updated. My diagrams are very limited but I have most wires in there. There are 1 or 2 missing links but most stuff is there.

Cheers I won't be able to do any more work until Monday but I should have a decent update on monday evening. I plan to work on the airbox mounting a little more and also I'd like to see if I can get brackets sorted to hold the crossmember. I'm also waiting on a bentley wiring diagram for the corrado rather than use the crap diagrams I have at the minute. If I get the rub of the green I might be able to get the engineer to sort the steering rack on monday or tuesday but time will tell. But here's a wee bit of progress I made last night. Not much but it helps. Door cards removed and speaker pods/pockets taken off. The speaker pods are the main reason for the door not closing. The bottom of the dash hits the corner of the pod but has plenty of clearance from the dash itself. These should be easy enough to modify and recover. I have spare 3dr MK4 doorcards and I'm giving serious consideration into trying to graft them in but I'll worry about that another time. They might be more hassle that they're worth. Set of Bora vents for the dash. And I'll also be going with brushed aluminium for the dash trim. Believe it or not that's a sticker. This the new 3M di-noc brushed aluminium vinyl. Same sort of stuff as the carbon effect vinyl. Very easy to work with and unless you pic and poke at it, you can't tell the difference in it and real metal. Granted the real R32/anniversary trim is lacquered but this is as close to the real thing as I've seen.

Corrado Wiring List NOT FINISHED YET Headlight and dimmer switch 1. 0.5, gr/bl - illumination 2. 0.5, gr - Relay Board R/3 -> 10A Fuse 3 3. 0.5, br - Relay Board R/8 -> line 31 4. ge 5. nc 6. ws 7. 2.5, sw/ge - Relay Board R/10 -> Load Reduction Relay 4 1/88 8. 1.5, ro - Relay Board R/5 -> line 30 9. 0.5, gr/gn - Relay Board R/2, R/6, R/7. (R2 -> 10A fuse 8 -> K/3 -> left brake light)(R/6 -> 10A fuse 7 -> K/2 -> right brake light)(R/7 -> (10A fuse 3 -> R/3)+(relay 10 point 1)) 10. gr/sw^ 11. gr/ro^ Rear Window Heater Switch 1. sw/ge - Relay Board P/2 -> 20A fuse 3 -> Line X 2. ws/gn - Relay Board P/3 -> Relay Board K12 -> rear window heater 3. gr/bl - Relay Board P/7 -> illumination 4. br - Relay Board P/5 -> Relay Board Z2 -> Battery - 5. nc 6. nc Fog Lights switches 1. 1.5, gr/ge - Relay Board P/4 -> 15A Fuse 10 -> fog light relay 3/87 2. 1.0, gr/ws - Relay Board P/6 -> illumination 3. 0.5, gr - Relay Board P/9 -> illumination 4. 0.5, br/ws - Relay Board P/8 -> line 31 5. nc 6. 1.5, ws/ge - Relay Board P/1 -> A2/8 -> (T2f/1 -> left fog light)+(T2g/2 -> right fog light) Ciggy lighter 1. 1.5, br - Relay Board Q1 -> line 31 2. 1.5, ro/gr - Relay Board Q5 -> 15A fuse 21 3. 0.5, gr/bl - illumination Ashtray Light 1. gr/bl - illumination 2. br - Earth OBD Port 4. 0.5, br -> Earth 5. br 7. 0.5, gr/ro -> TV14 data link connector - T2a/2 14. ge/bl 15. 0.5, ge -> TV14 data link connector - T2a/1 16. 0.5, ro -> Q3 -> 10A fuse 22 -> line 30 IGN Switch 15. 1.5, sw -> Relay Board H1/4 -> line 15 50. 4.0, ro/sw -> Relay Board H1/1 -> line 50 R. nc 30. 4.0, ro -> Relay Board H1/2 -> line 30 P. gr X. 2.5, sw/ge -> Relay Board H1/3 -> load reduction relay 1/88 S. 0.5, br/ro -> Radio T8/4 Steering column connectors x 5 Black - 5 large pin - T5b 1. 1.5, ws/ge -> Relay Board J/8 -> Hazard Relay 6 4/49 2. 1.5, ge -> Relay Board J/3 -> 10A fuse S1 + S2 -> (A1/1 -> left headlight)+(A2/3 -> right headlight) 3. 1.5, ws/sw -> Relay Board J/2 -> Relay Board R/9 -> light switch 2/56 4. 1.5, ws -> Relay Board J/1 -> (10A fuse 12 -> T19/4 -> Main beam right bulb) + (10A fuse 11 -> T19/6 -> main beam left bulb) 5. 1.5, ro/ge -> Relay Board J/4 -> line 30 Black - 5 small pin - T5c 1. 1.0, gn/ge -> Relay Board J/10 -> Relay Board S/5 -> Wiper Motor 2/53b 2. 1.0, sw/gr -> Relay Board J/7 -> Wash/Wipe Relay 8 3/15 +(Relay Board S/1 -> wiper motor 1/53a)+(15A fuse 5 -> line X) 3. 1.0, gn -> Relay Board J/10 -> Wash/Wipe Relay 4/53s (relay 8 ) 4. 1.0, gn/sw -> Relay Board J/9 -> Relay Borad S/4 -> Wiper Motor 3/53e 5. 0.5, br/sw -> Relay Board J/6 -> Wash/Wipe Relay 8 2/J Red 4 pin - T4d 1. 1.0, gn/ws -> Relay Board H1/9 -> (Rear wash/wipe relay 2 4/L)+(Relay Board C/7 -> washer pump pin 2) 2. 1.0, gn/ro -> Relay Board H1/8 -> (wash/wipe relay 8 6/T)+(Relay Board C/2 -> washer pump pin 1) 3. 1.5, br -> Relay Board H1/6 -> Line 31 4. sw/bl Black 7 pin - T7 1. 1.0, br/bl -> Relay Board H2/1 -> Horn Relay 11 4/85 2. 1.0, sw/gn/ws -> Relay Board H2/8 -> Hazard Relay 6 2/49a 3. 1.0, sw/ws -> Relay Board H2/6 -> (Relay Board A1/2 -> left front turn signal)+(Relay Board K/1 -> left rear turn signal) 4. gr/sw -> parking light switch PL 5. gr -> parking light switch P 6. gr/ro -> parking light switch PR 7. 1.0, gn/sw -> Relay Board H2/4 -> (Relay Board A2/4 -> right front turn signal)+(Relay Board K/7 -> right rear turn signal) Brown 4 pin - Indicator switch - T4a 1. 0.5, br/ws - Relay Board V/2 -> Earth 2. 0.5, ro/ws - Relay Board V/1 -> U2/4 -> clocks T28/15 3. 0.5, bl/ge - Relay Board V/3 -> U2/8 -> clocks T28/6 4. 0.5, ge/ro - Relay Board V/4 -> U2/14 -> clocks T28/4 Fresh Air blower Switch 1. 1.5, sw - Blower resistors T5/3 2. 1.5, ge/sw - Blower resistors T5/4 3. 1.5, ge - Blower resistors T5/5 4. 2.5, ws/ge - Blower resistors T5/2 5. (+) 1.0, sw/ge -> T1A -> Fan control module T8e/4 + 3rd Fan Speed Module pin 1 ---------- Post added at 8:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:03 PM ---------- No problem. It's always good to have everything written down and documented as it gives a good reference to go back to should anything need to be fixed or modified.