Bazmcc

MK4 Golf/Bora Wiring Lists. Ok here is the MK4 dash wiring for the switches. Firstly I'll apologise at the confusion I'm about to cause. All wire weights/sizes are listed by number as they are on the vw software. Also, all colours are listed as they are on the VW software and they're in german. Sorry about that but that's what I've got used to. If a wire has 2 colours they are usually divided as follows. Main colour first/stripe second. Wire colours. sw - black ws - white gr - grey gn - green bl - blue ro - red li - lilac ge - yellow br - brown + = additional connection -> = connected in serial to the following. nc = no connection T12a/3 = T12a is the connector name and overall number of pins (12) and the second number is the pin number on that connection/wire. Each wire is shown as follows: Connector point or pin - wire size, wire colour - Connections Ignition Switch - D 30 - 2.5, ro -> 6.0 ro -> Connection 30 on relay plate 30 - 2.5, ro -> 6.0 ro -> Connection 30 on relay plate 75 - 2.5, sw/ro -> S1/5 connection on relay plate -> X-contact relief relay 8/75 + Dual tone horn relay 4/75 50b - 2.5, ro/sw -> T6/3 (brown connector in plenum) -> B/50 50 - nc 15 - 2.5, sw -> Positive connection A2 in dash harness P - 1.0, gr -> Parking light switch E19 - T12/4 86s - 1.0, br/ro -> 10A fuse 37 (S237) Immobiliser reader coil - D2 1 - 0.35, gn - T32a/2 -> J362 immo controller 2 - 0.35, sw - T32a/17 -> J362 immo controller Indicator switch E2, headlight dipper/flasher E4, Parking light switch E19 - T12 1 - 1.5, ro -> Ignition switch 30 2 - nc 3 - 1.0, sw/ws -> T32/18 left turn bulb in clocks + left turn bulbs M5 (front) and M6 (rear) + Hazard switch T8d/3 4 - 1.0, gr ->Ignition switch P 5 - 1.0, sw/ws/gn ->Hazard switch T8d/1 6 - nc 7 - 1.5, ge/ro -> light switch T17/4 8 - 1.5, ge/gn -> 56b in interior harness -> 15A Fuse 21 -> left headlight dip beam bulb M29 9 - 0.5, gr/br -> Light switch T17/13 + 57L in dash harness + 5A Fuse 23 -> T32/27 (parking light left) 10 - 0.5, gr/li -> Light switch T17/14 + 57R in dash harness + 5A Fuse 22 -> T32/26 (parking light right) 11 - 1.0, sw/gn -> T32/2 right turn bulb in clocks + Hazard switch T8d/2 12 - 1.5, ws/gn -> 56a in dash harness + (10A fuse -> left main beam bulb M30) + (10A fuse 18 -> T32/17 in dash main beam indicator bulb) Light Switch - E1 - T17 1 - 2.5, sw/ro -> Connection 1(X) in dash harness + ignition switch 75 2 - 1.0, sw/ws -> 15a fuse 36 (S236) -> 1.5, sw/ro - ignition switch 75 3 - TFL 4 - 1.5, ge/ro -> left stalk T12/7 headlight dipper 5 - nc 6 - B 7 - 1.5, ge/gn -> 56b in dash harness + left stalk T12/8 headlight dipper 8 - nc 9 - 1.0, gr/ws -> connection RFL in dash harness + T32/14 + NSL T6a/6 (L46 rear left fog light bulb) 10 - 0.5, br -> Earth 11 - nc 12 - nc 13 - 0.5, gr/br -> left stalk T12/9 parking light left 14 - 0.5, gr/li -> left stalk T12/10 parking light right 15 - 1.5, ro - ignition switch 30 16 - 0.5, gr/ge - (5A Fuse 3 -> 58a dash harness) + (5A fuse 4 -> number plate lights) 17 - 0.5, gr/bl - illumination Ciggy Lighter - U1 1 - 1.5, br -> Earth 2 - 1.5, ro/sw -> 15a Fuse S241 3 - 0.5, gr/bl -> illumination Glove Box Light - W6 1 - 1.5, sw/br - 10A Fuse 1 2 - 0.5, br -> Earth Heated rear window switch - E15 - T7 1 - 0.5, gr/bl -> illumination 2 - 0.5, br -> Earth 3 - nc 4 - nc 5 - 1.5, ws/ge -> 25A Fuse 26 (S226) -> 10.0, sw/ge -> 75X 6 - 2.5, ws -> Heated rear window positive side. 7 - nc

Spoke to the engineer tonight and got some stuff sorted. Simple fix for the gearstick. Basically 4 inches or so cut off the top of the existing shifter and the center bored and threaded internally and a flat piece of metal bolted to the top of that which will extend about 2 - 2.5 inches back (undecided yet) and the piece we cut off bolted or welded to the end. The result will be a gearstick which feels and operates completely normally but just sits back a little. Steering column - The bottom where it mounts to the rack will be extended by around 1.5". And just below the middle universal joint will be extended by about 4-5 inches. Both should be totally unobtrusive to the function of the column and rack and allow it to mount properly at the top. Mounting brackets will need to be made for where it mounts at the pedal box but the extra length will allow for more flexibility with this. Wiring diagrams coming soon.

Yes I have a thread on club gti as well. The problem is that the combination of parts is quite specific to late corrados and a small handful of golfs but not that common. I was hoping someone on here had maybe fitted them. The Wossner pistons have larger cut outs for the valves but i'm not quite sure how big.

Just wondering if anyone is running a high spec 16v with high comp wossner pistons. I need a bit of info and someone with previous experience would be handy for me to pick their brains. Quick spec. Late 9a rado with 'ABF' head. Head will be ported and polished and will be running piper 294 cams, piper vernier, etc etc. GSXR 45mm throttle bodies SAAB turbo Bosch red top injectors 1.8T fuel rail Compression ratio of the wossner pistons claim to be 12.3 I just want to know what sort of clearance issues I might see if anyone has had experince of measuring up a similar setup. The lift is 11.3 but it's the duration which may lead to the valves being quite close to the piston crowns. Any help would be great. Cheers Baz

There are 2 toothed wires in the mechanism. if the sunroof is moved when the motor is out, or the motor is moved when not connected fully you can set them a couple of inches out of whack easily. I done it on mine and it was a pain in the backside to set properly. You might need to take the motor out, slide it back manually, then put the motor back in and see if it slides into place when shut.

This is the remains of what is left sticking out after removing the AC pipes and core. This has to go as it won't fit against the firewall when the airbox is fitted. Bits to cut off. The big round bit sticking out the back. The large mount above the fan. And the AC outlet part. Remember there is a screw behind this. Take it out first. Shave back as much plastic as you can from where the AC pipes came out. You can take off the MK4 kick panel white clip, the wiring conduit on top, and the AC surround, basically bit you don't need. You can also remove all the bolts on the back. Only 1 lines up, the rest get in the way. I'll explain it when I get round to making the new mounts. You can remove the relay holder above the airbox as it won't be needed. Test fit. lol Whilst test fitting you'll find that the incredibly heavy, thick, old, smelly, soundproofing will get in the way and make life difficult. As some stage I will change this for dynamat but for now I trimmed a couple of places to allow the box to sit closer to the firewall and line up better. Couple of pics during the trimming. The bits cut out only remove the top layer of thick leathery stuff. That's all that's needed. You want the water pipes to line up exactly like this. And the air intake should be pretty close if you've trimmed enough off where the AC pipes came out. If you haven't the box will rock on that point against the soundproofing. And it should fit in just lovely. Full MK4 wiring loom. This will be fun splicing a lot of this in. I'll list up the switches, connectors and wiring pin numbers and colours shortly. Next jobs. Work out the wiring for the switches and buttons. Post up connector lists and wires for corrado. Post up connector lists for MK4. Get wiring diagram for MK4 airbox. Make mounts on back of MK4 airbox for corrado firewall. Possibly make mount for front of airbox to support weight. Remove corrado doorcards and remove speaker pods and pockets. Test fit door cards without speaker pods. Mark out doorcards for reshaping. Somehow extend steering rack to fit standard column mounts. Make brackets to fit bottom of rack to pedal box. And so on and so on. More to come soon hopefully.

Test fit time again. Loads more space now at the passengers side. Getting there. The bracket at the tunnel is a bit wonky. I might have to bend this and redrill it to make it fit. I'd like to keep it for extra support. Time for a test fit of the MK4 steering column. As you can see I have it mounted right at the front of the mounting bracket and not on the proper places. We have a slight length issue. You can see how little overlap there is. This is going to take a little bit of reworking. The rack overall is a similar length but because the dash sits further out we need to fid an extra 4-5 inches probably from somewhere. This will be easier to work out when the dash is in it's final mounting place. This needs to be altered as well. The mk4 linkage hits the firewall so I need to make it a little longer. As you can see it fits straight on as they have the same splines but doesn't come through into the cabin at the same angle due to the length. Back of the column where it mounts to the pedal box doesn't fit either. I'll make brackets for this. I'll try and use the original holes, bolts and bushes. Here are the 2 airboxes side by side. Big cable tie style thing around the MK4 box. Cut this off, it can be replaced later. The airbox is split by unclipping the zinc coated clips vertically around the middle of the box and then unscrewing about 11 screws around the horizontal middle of the airbox on the fan side. The screws might be a bit crusty. Use a good screwdriver. The AC core can just be lifted out. If you want to save any hassle try and get a non AC mk4 airbox.

After some test fitting it was clear that the relay plate bracket was going to be too wide and get in the way. It's spot welded on so I decided the easiest way to deal with it was to drill it out with a spot weld bit. This way I can reuse it if I want to put the mk4 plate in. I'll just make a new brack to fit slightly different. Luckily I have a full set of Dormer spot weld drill bits sharpened professionally. Expensive as hell but I got a batch of blunt ones cheap on ebay and had them sharpened by a mate. This is the bracket on top of the dash that holds the crossmember steady in the middle. It matches up well with the existing hole where the corrado dash was screwed on. Only problem is that the angle is a bit wonky. A little clip with the grinder blade and we can bend it into shape and trim a couple of mm from the top to clear. After all the trimming I wanted to fit the cross member to the dash to see how well it fitting and to make sure everything still lined up when the 2 were put in together. Some trimming was needed to get the dash sides past the corrado A pillars and brackets. I wanted to make sure I got rid of anything that wasn't structural or holding something onto the dash. As you can see it's very tight. Here's where the bottom of the side panel clips on the drivers side. And where the side clips on the passengers side. MK4 fuse box mounts. And drivers side trimmed and sanded down whilst keeping the Fuse box mounts. Passengers side with all the crap hacked out.

OK back at it for another day yesterday and made some major progress. First I did a quick test fit of the mk4 steering column on the original bracket. It doesn't even nearly fit but I wanted to see how it sits. Next thing was to get the steering rack and bracket out of there. I messed about with a cheap air cut off tool for quite a while and also a dremel. After breaking several blades and making no progress it was time to speed things up and bring the grinder in. A few seconds later and a couple of agricultural cuts the original steering column bracket was out of there. This will be tidied up and seal seamed and painted etc at a later date. Tool of the day Winner!!! Then the original airbox had to be removed. I had considered keeping this but to be honest, I might as well do the full swap. You'll probably find 1 of the screws will seize. I cut 2 slots in this one with a carbide bit on a drill and after that i could loosen it enough to unscrew it. Another quick test fit to suss out where I'd like it to sit with the doorcards. There's a massive amount of space behind the mk4 dash with the airbox out of there. Then onto fitting the MK4 bulkhead crossmember. The main reason I want to use this is so I don't need to make a load of custom brackets and everything screws onto it including the steering column and dash itself. I trimmed about 1/4" off the bar at the sides just to give a tiny bit of extra clearance while fitting. I also trimmed a couple of gaps at the side where the mounting holes are for clearance as the corrado has an annoying metal bracket poking out of the A pillar at each side. As I'll be making mounting brackets for this I wasn't too bothered about cutting the existing ones. I made these a little deeper later on as shown. There's a bracket on the right hand side which holds the MK4 relay plate. I had to trim a tab off this to stop it hitting my fuse box during test fitting. It was irrelevant whether it stayed or not as nothing bolts to it. As far as I'm aware it held a wiring clip so no need for it. As you can see i cut out a little more to clear the bonnet latch release for test fitting. I also trimmed a bit out of the latch pull bracket. Just a little off the edge.

First small problem. Gear surround plastics don't fit very well dur to the height of the tunnel. Bye bye front ashtray brackets. And in it goes for a test fit. Radio cage also needed a bit of a trim to even get it fitted in. The screw left on the left side is for the glove box but I think i'll need to chop it off as well. First main problem. That Corrado tunnel is huge where the shifter box is fitted. The gearstick fits very far forward and very high. So basically although the gearbox and linkages aren't in, it's obvious to see that the throw is too long at the front and hits where the AC controls are. I've seen a couple of attempts at a MK4 dash in a corrado and to be honest, the attempts to solve this problem have been poor or non existent. I'll go and have a word with my engineer pal to see if we can make an offset shifter so the mechanism will stay where it is and the knob and half the bar on top will pretty much move about 2 - 3 inches back. I did say it was trial and error. :) Cross member is a bit wide with the standard MK4 brackets. Off they go: Stay tuned for more as I'll be continuing some work today.

And lets have a look in below. Luckily I have a few extra mk4 parts so I might make some mistakes and hack some bits off I didn't want to but as this is purely just me winging it, I need a few spares. Time for a test fit.... FITS LIKE A GLOVE!!! Ok so it's a big ill fitting creepy peado style leather gimp glove but it still makes it between the A pillars. Doors are a bit of a squeeze. As I'd like to keep the original dash shape I'll be modifying the doorcards as they're grey anyway and I might as well do something with them. Corrado teering rack is a bit tight. Here's how it fits with the dash and how it's attached. OK so the first real task is to have a look at fitting the center console. to get a few angles and fitments worked out to see how I can fit everything in. Radio cage slows into the gear surround plastics.

OK so it begins. Basically this is trial and error and I expect to have a lot of errors along the way. I'll tackle them one by one as I go. Firstly, The parts from the donor car. Airbox with AC blank although I'll probably remove the AC parts completely. Lower dash parts. Steering Column Crossmember Dash Center Console Radio Cage Lower center console and gear surround And onto the corrado dash and removal. 2 10mm nuts in the scuttle panel about a 3rd of the way across from each side, a 10mm nut on a bracket on the center console behind the shifter box, and a couple of screws on brackets that you'll find as you go. Basically, if there's a screw in it I took it out and with a bit of flexing and testing I soon found everything i needed to take it out. Lets face it, it's corrado dash plastics as well, chances are it'll crumble like biscuit and fall out with the slightest pressure. Dash out

I'm actually in the middle of a full rebuild of my car (bora) in which I'm retrofitting it. I've helped about a dozen or so people to do it to their cars but I'm only getting round to doing my own now so I'm dragging my heels and lagging behind badly. lol

So after getting a bit peeved with the crap Corrado heater controls and the pants brittle crumbly plastic I've decided to try and do the MK4 dash conversion. I have a full donor car and I have: The bulk head support bar the dash all the lower dash parts the switches center console radio cage all wiring steering column dash to tunnel support bars mounting brackets from the MK4 A pillars. MK4 airbox, cables, wiring, and air ducting channels. I'll get some pics of all the bits later. I'll be documenting everything as I go along. A lot of this will be trial and error mainly due to lack of info about this swap. I have seen it done but info is still very sparse. I have no intentions of keeping any secrets or hiding any info. I intend on doing the full conversion including having all dash buttons and switches fully functional. The main thing about this swap is that due to the amount of modifications currently going on in my engine bay I won't be keeping the AC part of the system. This may involve chopping it out or swapping the box and controls for a non AC setup but I'll try and work with what I've got. I have a fair bit of experience with wiring so that should be 'do-able'. I'll also be attempting to keep the OEM look by having genuine MK4 clocks. The main issue with this may be the rev scale on mk4 clocks. I'm confident I can make everything work properly but the average mk4 won't have enough rpm on the dial. I have a bit of help with this and I think we can recode something like non-can mk4 clocks and have everything running sweet. But we'll worry about that after we get the actual dash and everything into place first. Another nice mod would be using a MK4 fuse box and relay plate but we'll keep that on the back burner until I can make the rest of the stuff work. I'll apologise in advance for any slow progress but I will try and update as much as possible. I already have a handful of other projects and a business to look after so i'm kept on my toes all the time. Any help, advice, support, or comments are always welcome. More info coming soon. Baz

I have an autotech one but it's only a flat piece of aluminium and an L shape.

I got this fixed. I thought I had updated the thread but obviously not. I removed all the earths, cleaned then up and bolted them all back on and the car is running perfect again. Thanks Baz

ISV is cleaned and is functioning normally. When I nip the pipe at the manifold I can change the idle and cut the car out if I close it completely. If I unplug it, the car will cut out. I've already tried a new fuel pump relay. The links you posted don't seem to work. I just get error pages. Should this valve be ticking in time with the engine revs?

What have you tried to sort it out?

Changed the temp sensor. Problem is still there. I'm going to have a good dig around the wiring later. I found one part of the ISV plug wiring which was slightly rubbed through and exposed so i'm going to rewire it with fresh wire and cut the bad bit out. I think i'll also strip off the main earth at the battery and try to clean it up and see if it helps.

I need to pick up stuff from vw this week anyway so if it's cheap enough i'll just order one. I'll try and find out.

Nice one. I'll try and do some searching online and see what I can find. Sounds about right though.

But it's now more inconsistant. A couple of times it's idled bad from the start yesterday. There's no doubt that unplugging the white plug shown above sorts it out. Can anyone confirm what sensor it is?

I still need some help with this. Should this valve be ticking in time with the engine revs? And when this is unplugged the car seems to run fine. Can someone confirm what this is?

Tried a new 167 relay and the car seems to idle normally when it's left alone but the revs are still varying and hunting a bit. Then when it was warmed up a bit I checked it out by slowly giving it a few revs up and down and the rev hunting got worse and there was a fair bit of spluttering and chugging but it does seem to be improved slightly. However, the problem isn't solved and still very much a problem. Any ideas?

Tried unplugging the metering head and it ran probably worse. I have noticed that the 167 relay is heating up though. I think this might be the source of the problem. I'm going to try and find another relay somewhere today and test it out later.