Hatton VR6
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Everything posted by Hatton VR6
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Body shops in the Warwick Leamington Kenilworth
Hatton VR6 replied to Hatton VR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
Did you use them for the work on your Corrado a couple of years ago. My wife has just taken early retirement and suggested that I have £3K from her lump sump to sort the car out so I could go to shows next year. So I need to act before she changes her mind! As our son grows up running the taxi service to weekend activities has dropped off giving me the time to sort the car out. We have also had the headache of the A4 being off the road for 6 weeks so the C being roadworthy would have been very useful. -
Hi, Can anybody recommend a good body shop in the Leamington Warwick or Kenilworth area. I need to get the A pillars replaced / repaired and painted after the welding has been done as water had got in when the previous owner had the windscreen replaced. Hatton VR6
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M???DLB Classic Green on the Birmingham road in Hatton at 17:20 today heading towards A46 and Warwick, 0.5 miles from my home. Flashed you but was in my A4 estate.
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Happy New Year to everyone hope its a good one.
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Clean off the thread behind the nut with a wire brush so any of the muck on the threads does not make it harder to turn the nut when loosened or get stuck in the threads when trying to remove the nut. Spray the thread and nut with Plus Gas or another penetrating oil and leave to soak in as recommended on the can. This may allow you to slacken off the lock nut without resorting to heat. It may be worth winding it backwards and forwards to free it off. (It has worked for me in the past with out needing to resort to heat). Remove the track rod end ball joint, counting the number of turns to remove it. Spray the thread and lock nut with Plus Gas and hopefully remove lock nut. Clean the track rod thread up with a wire brush. Smear a little copper grease on the track rod thread and fit the new nut and track rod end ball joint, counting the number of turns as you refit it and lock in place. If the plus gas does not work you will have to resort to heat. In the past I have left it to soak over night and then used the plus gas again the next day as specified on the tin. Hope it helps.
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M Reg Classic green about midday on Clarendon Street Leamington Spa
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Have been working at TUV on Snitterfield Road Bearley all week! Will keep an out for you. Am in Stratford 2 - 3 times a week as my son is in the cycling club and triathlon club there. If a blue A4 estate waves it will probably be me as the VR6 is off the road at the moment.
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Have been working at TUV on Snitterfield Road Bearley all week! Will keep an out for you. Am in Stratford 2 - 3 times a week as my son is in the cycling club and triathlon club there. If a blue A4 estate waves it will probably be me as the VR6 is off the road at the moment.
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Red K reg 16V around lunch time today heading towards Stratford on the A3400 near Bearley
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How old are you, and how long have you had your Corrado/Corrado's?
Hatton VR6 replied to Overmind's topic in General Car Chat
50 (youngish) 1.8 16V 1996 - 2002 80000 miles used as a daily driver except for 1997 - 1998 when I had a company car. Since2004 a VR6 10000 miles, will keep as standard! Hopefully the car will go to my 12 year old but not for many years! -
2 black M regs on the A34 today. First sighting 10.50AM near Abingdon junction Oxfordshire heading towards M40, in a rep mobile heading the other way. Second sighting 13.50 near Oxfordshire Berkshire boarder heading towards Newbury in a rep mobile heading the other way.
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Mysterious, substantial, improvement in radio signal..?
Hatton VR6 replied to Jim's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Possibly a better earth connection to the battery or you have moved cable without realising that has now made better contact. Has the car been garaged over the last week while off the road. If so the black box on the roof may have dried out. Water got into the black box on my old 16V, stopping the amplifier from working. -
Great news on the MOT. Seems like I'm not the only that gets grief off the Mrs! The older she gets the more grief I get!
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Hi, Can only emphasize check the body work where the screen was fitted. Mine had major rust in that area, talking to body shops about the repair it is a common problem with 80s & 90s cars when the screen has been replaced and bare metal is left untreated and unpainted. Make sure any bare metal is treated and painted. I had no idea of the little surprise lurking as there were no visible signs until the screen was out. Have you got all the seals and trim pieces? I think they are all obsolete now.
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Hi, welcome. I have owned 2 corrados over the last 17 years, the first an early 1.8 16V run as a daily driver from 1996 to 2002, broke down once, problem with the alternator. Towards the end of its time with me I had to replace valve guide oil seals exhaust and rear shockers, nothing unexpected as it had 155000 miles on the clock, always serviced regularly. I now have a 1995 VR6, bought in 2004 only used as a weekend toy. I service it regularly, has always been very reliable however this is probably considered a low milage car (82000). At present needs the A pillar replacing which is a common problem with 80s & 90s cars where the screen has been replaced and the any exposed metal not repainted before fitting the new screen. The only other issues I have had with this car are the exhaust and a rear brake caliper, so I would say they are very reliable, the A pillar issue is down to human error before I owned the car. There is an excellent knowledge base here so I suspect any issues you have someone will have already seen them and solved them. Even the newest of these cars are 18 years old so components will require replacing over time but then these cars are great to drive, no other car gives me such an ear to ear grin as the C when I drive it. The Misses keeps telling me we do not need a third car however she was not happy when I explained selling the corrado will only happen when I am 6 feet under! Hope to see you posting soon that you have bought one - you will not regret it!
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Glad it is all OK, can have a good laugh now though! I know the problem, keep forgetting when 12 year old is supposed to be grounded!
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Hi, I have had a couple of bits off a breaker in Shardlow in Derbyshire. He used to have a Corrado himself and sells parts off any he breaks He did have a stock of wings when I last contacted him. I only have an email address for him, [email protected].
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Warwick Street Leamington Spa by the Priors Centre going towards Warwick about 13:40 on Sunday 8th September. Green M reg about 6 cars in front of me. Brighten up journey home from my 12 year olds football match, they got thrashed 14 - 1.
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Hi, Jack suspect corner and try rotating the wheel with the handbrake off and see how the wheel rotates. Callipers are readily available. When you come to disconnect the brake fluid pipe clamp it with a hose clamp so you do not loose any fluid from the master cylinder then you should only have to bleed this corner. When I had to do this on my old 1.8 it was the same procedure as in the mk 2 golf Haynes guide for the GTI. Not sure if this changed on the 2.0 versions I will have to this on my VR and looks a similar setup, which is on a sorn at the moment. Nice collection of cars, always wanted a GT6! but I can see Mrs VR6 now with the divorce papers if I acquire one! I did briefly have a dolly sprint in the 80s.
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Clutch/brake fluid leak nope heater matrix!!!
Hatton VR6 replied to eugopnosaj's topic in Drivetrain
Hi, Just checked on ETKA VW parts software it only lists the master cylinder and does not give any details of seals or any of the internal components or repair kits so I guess it will be a new cylinder unless any 3rd party has produced a repair kit. Looking at Bentley I think it should withdraw from the engine side as the mounting flange is on the engine side of the bulkhead when disconnected from the pedal and the fluid lines are disconnected. Watch the pipe from the reservoir, if it is a hose rather than a metal pipe use a pipe clamp to prevent any fluid loss and air getting into the braking system. -
Hi, I would like a set as well please car is going to have a respray as welding is required with A pillar issues.
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Clutch/brake fluid leak nope heater matrix!!!
Hatton VR6 replied to eugopnosaj's topic in Drivetrain
Hi I suspect it may be the master cylinder, possibly one of the seals for the piston. Fluid comes past the piston seal then runs down the push rod attached to the piston and down the linkage into the car. I had this problem with a mini back in the 80s. Check the level in the reservoir as it is shared with the brakes.